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Found 132 results

  1. Hi Guys, I am in the process of developing a paddle gear shift setup (pretty close to complete) for the FG Falcon auto gearbox. I have had the prototype working well in my car for about a year tweaking paddle shape, switch mechanism design etc. I need to get an idea of paddle (the bit that you touch) powdercoat colours that would be suitable as I have seen a couple of different vehicle interior colour schemes. My XR6 Turbo has silver trim so silver or maybe just black would be suitable. I have a friend that has a G6E that has gloss black trim where the silver bits are on my car so I would think black would be suitable in his case. I did a set in Gloss black but I didn't like the look of it. The set in the photos below (with white background) are powdercoated Satin Black which I quite like (probably hard to tell from the photos though). I will pre-empt questions about why the paddles are stationary rather than rotating with the wheel. The simple answer is that there is just not enough room between the steering wheel rim and the indicator and wiper stalks especially when they are pulled (high beam and wash) where the stalks almost touch the back of the steering wheel. I figured it is good enough for the following exotic cars so our humble Falcons should be OK with it: Ferrari F12, 458, 488, 599 Aston Martin DB11 Lamborghini Merchialago Lamborghini Aventador (I am sure there are more, these are just the ones I have noticed) There are also a couple of photos of an older prototype installed on my car. Any suggestions of paddle colours would be great or any other feedback.
  2. Hey guys. I know this is an absolute long shot. but, many a moon ago, (2010-2012, somewhere around that time) my father sold his beloved XR6 Turbo BA ute. And I'm trying to find out what happened to it. Rumour has it, it ended up in Sydney, but I'm not totally sure. It was sold in Qld. Unfortunately, all I have of that ute are some EXTREMELY low quality photos, I'm talking potato spec photos. The 4 photos I have left: Heres a quick block of info on the car. It was a fully built BA. Fully done suspension, 900kw at the wheels, 1600nm. It was an auto, but it absolutely raped gearboxes, I'm talking 5000-10000 km if you were lucky. So whoever bought it would have had all the fun in the world changing boxes. It had an alloy flatbed, and it had this blue carpet stuff attached to the flat bed. I also distinctly remember it having a Bob Jane T-marts sticker on the back window, along side one that said "Sucks to be you." I'm just trying to find out what happened to the damned thing. It's always made me wonder, and it just hit me this morning that I should go to the forums, and see if anyone happened to buy the vehicle, or know someone who did, or where it went. Anything could have happened to it. It may have been written off and sent into a tree for all I know. The car introduced me to high horsepower fun, so I just want to take a trip down memory lane. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
  3. Trying to gather information to start preparing for a Barra swap into an 02 Mustang GT. If there is anyone who could measure from the front of the engine to the shifter on a T56 transmission it would be appreciated. I am also curious to know if there are any downsides to using a BA motor vs BF if I am going to be installing forged rods and pistons anyways.
  4. hey guys theres been alot of talk on the bf xr6t im hearing lots of different things about it, people saying they have the same internals/engine as the bf typhoon, if true is it from 2006 upwards or 2007? and is there any difference mechanicals wise between the bf mk2 or mk1? thanks
  5. I was talking to a mate about the different types of Barras and he was saying something about naturally aspirated motors are weaker then the turbo variants. just wanted to see if this was true at all and if it is what’s the difference between the two
  6. Hey guys, I am looking to purchase a FG-X XR6T and want to spend a few thousand (including labour) on increasing power. Is this achievable? Will I need to travel to Sydney/Brisbane to reliably get mods installed and a decent tune? (Located Mid-North NSW). Or just stay local? $3-4000 would probably be my limit on spending. I want the car to be reliable and be fine dealing with my lead foot on a daily basis for years. 350kw is just a ballpark figure I would probably be happy with. I dont want to go crazy, I just want to get the most bang for buck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, the more info the better.
  7. Thought I'd make a thread of my modding journey, anyone who is keen to post their own journey is more than welcome! the rig end of last year ----- current - minus exhaust before current
  8. I am writing this to let members know about a very common problem that affects the Turbo Falcons. The electronic boost solenoid gets sticky after about 10,000km. I did this maintenance on my car last Saturday night after reading about it on another forum. My car felt sluggish going onto boost. While the car still pulled like a freight train, it did not come onto power like it used to, so I thought I would try out the procedure. The difference was noticeable on the Bathurst Christmas cruise as the boost came on like it used to without the lag that I was experiencing before the maintenance. Now I have tried to write this for anyone with the right tools and a very basic mechanical knowledge. If you do not feel at ease under the bonnet, you may be best to get your friendly mechanic or mate to do it. Firstly the parts: Can of WD40 or similar (I used Nulon spray) 10 and 12mm spanner Long nose pliers 10 minutes of your time. Now this work can be done with the battery installed, but is easiest if the battery is removed. 1. Open the bonnet and locate the battery and remove it using the 12mm spanner, removing both terminals and then the battery clamp. The arrow is pointing to where the boost solenoid is located 2. With the battery removed, locate the boost solenoid pic has a circle around it 3. You can either grab the hose with the long nose pliers or undo the 10mm bolt to make removing the hose easier. Once you have removed the solenoid, remove the top black hose adjacent to the plug with the long nose pliers. It is important that you do this carefully and pull the hose straight off, do not wiggle it off or you could break the plastic tube. The hose can be grabbed above the metal clamp and pulled straight off with a little force. Once the hose is removed, spray a liberal amount of lubricant (WD40) into the plastic tube and also up the rubber hose. Reverse the whole procedure and go for a drive. You should notice a significant improvement in the way your car comes on boost. This should be done every 10,000km for optimal results
  9. just why my heater don't work the blower and aircon dose but temp fluctuates between half and quarter will that affect power and my turbo on my xr6
  10. How do you remove/get to the turbo oil feed on the side of the block on a BA Typhoon with the fpv engine oil cooler in the way? Mine has blocked and blown the turbo I have fitted a new turbo but can't seem to get to the oil feed to replace the stock oil line with the new oil line?!
  11. Hey guys thinking of converting my territory this turbo to rwd. Haven’t found any threads which seems like bad news but any info would be appreciated on whether or not this is even possible. also whether it’s safe to do so.
  12. BA ICC Unit issue, Stereo dropped out and aircon whilst driving and won't turn on or work when manually try to turn on ICC,blank screen and still no fan or aircon.... Things to check or anything suggested to rectify the problem?
  13. Hi ladies and gents I've recently replaced my stock turbo with a procharge 67mm low mount however I'm not happy with the OEM heat shield in the engine bay, its getting old and looks grubby. Has anyone replaced this with a turbo blanket or similar?? Or would I be sacrificing performance for pure aesthetics?? Advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Chad
  14. Hi all, I'm new here and could really use some help. I have a 2008 FG XR6 Turbo with 240000km on it. It has the ZF six speed. For a while now it has been running a bit weird. I will be driving, mostly when it's cold or warm and it will make a weird kinda vibration noise, revs will drop by approx. 400-500rpm for the duration of the vibration. It will do this up to 7 times. It is intermittent and each vibration lasts for approx 0.5-1 second each time. I have googled it and even bought a Bosch OBDII reader and it came up briefly with trouble code P0133 . I have replaced the o2 sensor and it fixed the issue for a day. I found that the hose that runs from the PCV valve was snapped, so I replaced it with some fuel line hose and it fixed the issue for 2 days before starting. All the manifold bolts are tight and I even checked it for leaks and found nothing. It doesn't do it while on boost, only while on vacuum. Turbo has minimal play for a car of it's age. It is starting to do my head in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
  15. Hey there, Just wondering if anyone has the torque settings for the FG Turbo manifold? + If anyone has a whole booklet of the torque settings for the FG Turbo Falcon
  16. Hi all, I have an 04 RTV auto ute and an 04 XR6 turbo auto sedan. I'm putting the engine, transmission and dash including ICC and steering column from the turbo sedan into the ute. As I'll have the turbo PCM, ICC and steering column including key barrel should the car start and run or will the BCM shut the show down? Should I also swap the BCM from the sedan into the ute? Theoretically it should then start and run? Any issues with having the sedan BCM in a ute? Engine is out and on the floor, FG cams, Atomic springs, 440cc injectors and Hypergear ATR45 turbo hoping for 300kw will post pics once done.
  17. Ozkart13

    FG misfire

    Hi guys, After filtering through all the misfire related topics and find very few threads with actual resolutions I thought I'd start a new one. Basically my 09 FG G6e turbo started misfiring at WOT when at the strip the other night. 400rwkw running E85 to give an idea of mod level. The thing had done it before, when it did I took it back to the tuner where it got a service and retune and came out happy as. Has been running sweet for about 6 months now but the problem has returned and is far worse. Essentially when I am on hard boost it sounds like it has a very bad misfire and no power obviously. Originally it was just under WOT but on the way back from the track it got worse, occasionally misfiring while.cruising at 100kph and but the time I got home (100km later) struggling to idle without misfiring. With slight throttle it runs smooth as so I'm thinking it has to do with ignition as the extra voltage with slight throttle will help spark but as soon as any fuel or boost is dumped into the engine it misfires again. I am yet to talk to my tuner (will today) but will update this post, through to resolution so hopefully it can help out the next victim. Keen to here any ideas or similar stories. Cheers, Joel
  18. Gemma

    Knock in rear

    Just looking for some advice purchased a 2010 G6e turbo 2 months ago have recently heard a knock / clunk noise coming from the rear end only on take off ( sometimes) just one knock it's not continuous any idea on the possibility of issue.
  19. TheChad90

    Clutch talk

    Hey lads and ladies (maybe) So I've met my first power goal of 500hp and am in need of a new clutch very soon as I only have the stock FG F6 one. Any advice on clutches I should be considering???? my next power goal will be the 700hp mark so want something that's not going to clap out and take a beating but still relatively light for city driving. My mate will be putting the EXEDY DEVIL CLUTCH (ceramic and organic) in his XR6T which is pushing 700hp and he said he'll be able to get this for cheap through the business for me. Has anyone got any experience with EXEDY??? if so any info would be much appreciated and prices etc..... also any advice on mechanics in Brisbane to do the labour. Cheers Chad
  20. Hi guys, I not long brought a mk2 fg xr6 turbo and have a problem with the engine light.. The car has upgraded turbo, full exhaust, intercooler ect. It's making 366rwkw Before I brought the car, all the work and tune got done at horsepower factory and apparently right after the tune the engine light came up. The previous owner was told to change coils and plugs (20,000ks ago), he told me it fixed the problem for a while then it came back up again. The car was sold with me knowing about the light and how it didn't affect the car at all. Few months down the track the engine light will now flash and run horrible for 5 seconds then good again with the engine light staying lit. Its throwing codes P0301, 302, 303, 306 and 316, so I replaced coils and plugs along with regapping them to 0.8mm and it still hasn't helped at all. I just want to know if anyone has had a similar issue in the past as I dont want to waste money on parts that dont need replacing. The car is only 60,000 ks old but does still have the stock vavle springs.. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, cheers.
  21. Hi all, Am a full newbie to the fordxr6turbo forum, or any forum for that matter, and just thought I'd share my experience in converting my BA mk2 XT wagon into a turbo/manual/lLSD equipped weapon. Got a bit fed up with how much choice Expensive Daewoo fan's have when it comes to a quick wagon and was always pretty cut about ford never making a BA or BF (or even FG) wagon that had some poke. Massive missed opportunity. Also, every new car on the market is a sh*thouse-suv-dog walking- sunday driving-gumby driven poo box, so making a fast taxi was a no-brainer in my books. I've actually had the wagon for 8 years and used it for everything. Ranging from carrying a few hundred kilo's too many concrete bags in the boot through to weekend camping trips in the hills near where I live. It's actually pretty amazing where you can get one if you really try. Especially when it's your bed for the night and is the only car in the group that has a 'banging stezza'. Anyway, I got a bit of inspo from looking at other members conversions on this forum where they'd converted their taxi's into turbo WMD's and thought I'd give it a red hot crack. So I got excited one night after a couple of bevvy's and found myself as being the proud owner of a beaten up xr6 turbo ute. 5 months later and I can finally say the conversion is complete and the wagon is running sweet as a nut. Completely stock in every way apart from a cold air snorkel from an FPV typhoon and a Turbosmart BOV and Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator. Have no idea what power it's putting out but it's enough for me at the mo. Am looking to get a tune done at some stage in the future but the bank account won't allow that for a while so I'll just keep it as-is for now. I got some gangstaaaaaaaaa wheels for it too and reckon they set the thing off perfectly. Will post again soon to cover off on the issues I ran into along the way. The reason I joined is to share what I came across during the conversion process cause I ran into heaps of conflicting advice from this forum and others and just thought I'd help clear things up where I could.
  22. Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum, lifetime ford owner, paraplegic hoon and just recently Xr6 turbo owner! I’ve just bought a 2004 Xr6 turbo with 190,000 km’s on the clock, it’s been well maintained and feels and sounds healthy. There are things I replace on any car I buy like air filter, plugs, coil pack etc but I want to know what everyone on this forum recommends I do to the car. I did see on another forum they said something about using genuine coil packs and lubing the Wastegate?? Any help would be much apreciated??
  23. ba xr6t is very hard to get into gears when cold, gearbox sometimes has a slit grinding nose when I push the clutch in and it shakes the middle of the car and grinds a little bit but once warm normally drives find. Has had a new master cylinder has been bled a few months ago. also sometimes when starting up when even warmed up wont always turn over. sometimes aswell the reverse lights don't work but only seem not to work when I can actually get the car into gear.
  24. Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
  25. Hey guys, ive got a stock 2007 bf mk2 xr6 turbo and want to hit around the 260-270rwkw mark.. what exhaust would you use for a custom tune? Would xforce twin 2.5" from the cat back be enough? Thanks.. any other mods advice would be great.. cheers.
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