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Hey guys, I am looking to purchase a FG-X XR6T and want to spend a few thousand (including labour) on increasing power. Is this achievable? Will I need to travel to Sydney/Brisbane to reliably get mods installed and a decent tune? (Located Mid-North NSW). Or just stay local? $3-4000 would probably be my limit on spending. I want the car to be reliable and be fine dealing with my lead foot on a daily basis for years. 350kw is just a ballpark figure I would probably be happy with. I dont want to go crazy, I just want to get the most bang for buck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, the more info the better.
Thought I'd put up a build thread so hopefully I stay on the right track, keep motivated and do some learning/helping. Car is an 03 BA XR6t 5 spd manual and leather interior Yes I know not the best platform to start with motor and gearbox wise, but bought cheap enough with the intention to at least change to 6 spd. Purchased about a month ago and already has the following mods: Plazmaman Stage 1 Intercooler Process West Crossover Pipe Kit Battery relocation to right hand side with copper-core welding cables used. Plazmaman Sheet metal airbox with 4” K&N filter VENOM twin 2.5" Exhaust VENOM 3.5" Cat Fabricated Tig welded oil catch can with K&N filter Turbo bored out with larger flapper valve Turbosmart wastegate actuator with 10psi spring In tune Motorsport turbo oil filter installed Walbro GSS342 255lph SN95 Mustang Quickshifter with adjustable stops, stainless lever and carbon knob Custom carbon gear lever surround 19” OX Racing OX111 wheels Lowered on King Springs and Munroe dampers Nolathane Polyurethane bush kit Including diff bushes DJR Bobtail spoiler HID headlights Projector headlamp conversion Also came with an SCT xcal 3 flash tuner Body is a bit untidy and needed bigger injectors and tune. Pics from when I got it Few things I already found I needed to fix. Had a few oil leaks. First one I found from the oil return into sump. One of the bolts that holds the flange on was stripped so I put a helicoil (thread insert) in. So I left the oil in until I finished drilling and tapping the hole out, used grease on drill and tap to prevent swarf going into sump, but dropped the oil and flushed afterwards just in case. Replaced sump plug with a new one from Repco, which happens to have a 15mm head on it. WTAF??? Who the feck does that. Damaged thread. Sorry don't have after shots. Noticed PS hose leaking too. So gave everything a good degrease Wanted to change the coolant reservoir/overflow and wanted to check what spring was in the wastegate actuator. Didn't look too hard to do, and after little reading on here and another forum saw some people having a hard time with it and taking turbos and manifolds off. Anyway pulled the coolant reservoir out, removed the dump pipe, cross over pipe, oil feed and coolant supply to turbo and hose to actuator. Check out my sweet light setup! Removed the bolts for the actuator bracket, bottom one is slow only using an open end spanner. Pushed actuator back so I could see the R clipholding the clevis onto the flapper valve arm. Got my seal pick in the end of clip and pulled it out. Yes it snapped. Then squeezed the actuator out of the bay, it's tight but got it. Found it had a 10psi spring, not a 12 like I originally thought. Reinstalling just same as above but in reverse. Make sure you push actuator back as far as you can, open wastegate, and put clevis back on arm. I just used a new E clip. This is where you can check the actuator rod preload. Push the bracket forward towards the turbo and that gap should be the preload of 2mm. Bigger gap in pic as I wasn't holding it up. Bottom bolt on bracket could be tricky. I just gripped the head with long nose pliers, got it sitting in the hole, then put pressure behind the head with the pliers and got it started with the open end spanner. All back together Had to replace the vent hose to catch can as it was so hard and brittle. Have a big roll of the blue air/chemical hose so just used that. Will change to black hose and the catch can at some point. Sorry for the story. Will be updating tomorrow, I mean today/tonight. Thanks for looking... if you got this far lol
This may need to go to the modification & workshop section. sorry. Hi everyone. First post but I've been a long time lurker. I'm a proud owner of a MKI BF XR6 turbo and am planning a few budget mods. I welcome a few hard opinions and ideas from you guys to see if I'm close to the right track and I've got a few questions too. The car is going to be kept fairly sleeper by the looks of it. First a bit about the car. 144,000km, Second owner and was owned by a middle aged couple with kids. The guys wife mainly drove the car and I'd be surprised if it's ever popped a skid. the car has a build date of 29 may (05/06) so there is a chance it has the upgraded bottom end after the 06/06 turbos. It doesn't really make a difference for my situation anyway. I've got new genuine spark plugs and coils and an earls oil line for the turbo. transmission and diff are serviced. Anyway I've priced the total build to about $2700-$3000 and this should hopefully net me around 280-310ish RWKW which is my goal... we'll see. Parts include Exhaust: $180 4inch 100cell Venom catalytic converter - welded in place of the stock. Option to straight pipe middle muffler either from a shop or $250 venom bolt on from ebay. The catalytic converter should be enough on it's own but that cat with straight pipes would be pretty nice. Standard dump. Induction: K&N panel filter, XR8 snorkel $80 from eBay and a second pipe from the bottom of the airbox that I'll make myself. eBay intercooler $150-$180... I know I know they are pretty rubbish and I'll get heat soak pretty quickly but worst case I'll upgrade it later on and I've lost $150 and a touch up tune, not the end of the world. I'm tempted to keep the stock one but it's seen better days. Stage 1 tune offered by a few tuners $2300 and includes 1000cc injectors, spark plug gap, cooler thermostat, custom tune and a few other things) So that's about $2700-$3000. And then maybe: Fuel pump - Walbro 255 for $160 valve springs $850 - although they are upgraded from the BA motor the car has done a few km's I'm thinking of doing this a bit later on. Plazmaman stage 2 intercooler for $1400 with under battery intake All in all these modifications are there to supplement the stage one, I can't justify spending a quoted "$7500" for a stage 2 on a car that is worth around the same amount. I'd rather put that money towards a stock F6. If I can pull something decent from this I've successfully built a quick(er) 6 speed ZF falcon for around 10 grand. I'm in WA for now. Couple of questions So honest opinions... is it total crap? call me what you like but from all the research I've done this should get me close to 280-310rwkw. I know a lot of people will say do it right or not at all but I'd rather pick up the tools, take a challenge and do it on the cheap with a few small compromises. Would I get away with not doing the valve springs at least for now? I've been told a 5 inch cat would be better but I figure without doing more exhaust work there's no point, this should give a decent improvement over stock. I can get a 5 inch bolt on for $650 Are there better inexpensive intercooler options? Any ideas or experience. Thanks for reading.
Gents, This will be a long read - with many questions - but I see plenty of people asking and the information is scattered or not correct over the net. I was hoping to not only receive but give, by providing a in depth build thread... I like to dabble in cars quite a bit, A good friend of mine has A nice Black FG XR6 flat tray non turbo ute. Lowered, painted black gloss stock 18inch wheels - he had Ford install an LSD and I beleive the bonnet is sporting a FPV Bonnet bulge... The plan is to either find a wrecked XR6T,or a Complete motor and harness / box, or a Complete motor, or what have you to make this work in typical backyard budget built not bought style. We are not wanting to spend more than $6k or so on stage one. ---> Fit, Tune and Run the car as a Turbo. Later progress when the car is revoked from "work" duties, plans will get a little more serious. So queries I have for the Motor specialists to get us started. 1) Are the XR6T motors all the same and should we just stick to FG motors only...? 2) What is the difference mechanically between the N/A and Turbo Falcons? ( Block, Crank - Rods - Pistons - Rings - Head, Cams, Valves, Injectors, Radiator, ECU ) The differences will help me plan an attack on the motor - Can I upgrade the Pistons and Rings - cyl head then just bolt Turbo stuff on? Or are the motors significantly different? 3) It's manual - is there any difference in the gearboxes between N/A to Turbo? Is the bolt pattern different? Please feel free to offer any parts you may have for sale that will help with our project (within budget) - ideas - opinions, obviously relevant and helpful. If you have complete motor - or a long motor ect... But remember we have to stick to our budget for the first stage as yes money is an issue and also it is used as a Delivery / work vehicle for the next year. Im sure if you have old antique furniture or special wood which you want restored my mate would gladly trade his services for parts as this is his bread and butter. His work is awesome. We are looking for a base to start the transformation, I have taken on numerous projects but never with the blue oval badge so if some of my questions seem basic - forgive me. Any help would be fantastic. Regards Dave