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Found 49 results

  1. Hey guys, I am looking to purchase a FG-X XR6T and want to spend a few thousand (including labour) on increasing power. Is this achievable? Will I need to travel to Sydney/Brisbane to reliably get mods installed and a decent tune? (Located Mid-North NSW). Or just stay local? $3-4000 would probably be my limit on spending. I want the car to be reliable and be fine dealing with my lead foot on a daily basis for years. 350kw is just a ballpark figure I would probably be happy with. I dont want to go crazy, I just want to get the most bang for buck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, the more info the better.
  2. Have been having issues with my Ba xr6t mkii manual , for a while a whirring sound would come and go slightly between 60-80 km/h (I put it down to just about time for a centre bearing change over. then after about 3-4 weeks of driving to and from work I gave it a little throttle from a standing start and it made a very bad vibration through the car , pedals and gearstick. after that , any hard acceleration of more than 1/2 throttle would make bad vibration and the whirring sound had now become a Humming sound heard and felt above 50km/h. and an all around feeling of "something isn't right" was lingering ....a couple of days after this (about 60-80 kms later) I was driving with barely any acceleration at 60km/h and the whole car broke into vibration with a metal on metal sound present, the car also seemed to now have some resistance under acceleration as if the handbrake had been left on.... Babied the car home about 30km away and every time I would hit an incline and had to give anything more than a touch of acceleration the car would vibrate/drone and hum violently . on the very last hill to my house I honestly didn't think I was going to make it. the last 2kms. when I got home I took it apart and on this video is what I found...... If anyone can point me in the direction of what it might be? and the costs involved / possibly even someone in the northern perth area that can fix it, with quality workmanship? Until I get it fixed im leaving it parked up . im hoping it'll get me to the repair shop without the cost of a tow, though I've been told too much vibration being sent back through the gearbox etc could be very bad? car runs 500+rwhp on 15psi
  3. hello I have a manual 2012 xr6t ute with 600hp stock timing chain keeps jumping a tooth when giving it a hard time so I upgraded and got the atomic timing chain kit with crank sprocket 3 days later it jumped a tooth again I have been lucky so far with no damage to the engine as far as I know but is wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how to fix talked to atomic about they suggested up the rpm limiter from 6200rpm to 6500rpm and put a softer limiter on but the closest tuner is 7 hours away as I live in a small town and I want to try all options before doing that
  4. Hi guys, I've just bought online a Process West 4" intake for my G6ET that I picked up a month or so ago. Now I know I need a battery relocation kit as well to go with it, I was looking into the HDI Battery Relocation Kit https://www.hybrid-power.com/product-page/hdi-fg-xr6-battery-relocation-kit, but can't find any thing on the forums/google. I'm just wondering if any holes need to be drilled etc and how easy the install is. It says on HDI website 20-30 minutes but not sure if I trust that. Cheers in advance for the reply. Zac
  5. Hey all, I own a 2010 FG XR6T, recently the battery died so I replaced it. Now my car wont start when I turn the ignition over nothing happens at all! The new battery is fine all fuses seem fine, I got a scan tool and ran it through the car, the car showed up with 20 fault codes after documenting each code we cleared them but 4 still remain. U1900 P1000 U1055 U1066 Can someone please help me or show me a solution!
  6. Jordo C

    Retainers

    Getting a new set of atomic race valve springs for my stock fg. Wondering should I get the titanium retainers? Or should I wait till my engine is built more. I’m not sure
  7. I started with a NA FG XR6 & ZF 6sp, auto and decided on a power upgrade rather than a car upgrade (hoping to save $$) which has gone south dramatically! I am after any suggestions or advise that may help the following... When I collected car the mechanic proceeded to tell me that he doesn't really know what he is doing with the FG as opposed to the B series. I was told by the guy to take it to a performance tune shop and have the motor "paired". No one had any clue and now I have the following issues; Car only engages P, R, N, D and doesn't change from 1st once put in D. Secondly is the driveline upgrades (tailshaft, diff) and how important they are? Next I have an issue with ABS brakes, shuddering and skidding (maybe a bad tube?) The security feature and factory config on old engine ecu have been turned off, no key FOB or safety features active. The boost controller? is apparently not wired up, but I am unsure what to look for or where to find it. I am fairly good with the parts side of it but I have no idea on turbos and what's required in regards to maintenance and repair. I really like the FG and hope this doesn't leave a bad taste. I feel as though a new car would have been cheaper, to this point I have spent about $8k and it doesn't seem to be getting any better. PLEASE HELP! I will help where I can in return. Aprreciate your help guys!
  8. Thought I would post up here about my car on this forum after stalking for quite a while and becoming quite active on the "Other Forum" Have had my 2013 FG Xr6T for nearly two years now and have slowly been accumulating a few modifications for it. Had the final bits of work done a few weeks ago at MonstaTorque and managed to pull a final figure of 400.7rwkw. Que comments of hub dyno and manual The route I've taken with the car and many parts can probably be looked at as unconventional and excessive. As a young bloke about to venture into his first mortgage, I decided to spend the extra whilst I can afford it and build a relatively reliable base and future proof as far as more mods go as I plan to keep the car for a very long time. Unfortunately have not had the extra cash to do my oil pump gears or timing chain gear so am very aware of my need to stay away from my limiter and even have a soft cut in place (Although I've been told with this amount of torque these cars like to push straight through this) Bit of info on the car: - 2013 FG Xr6T - Full poverty pack - 6 Speed manual -Bought dead stock with 56,000kms from a single female owner 2 years ago Since then I've done a few mods over the past 2 years, totaling to the following now at 75,000kms - IMS Twin Bush Diff Hat - Wavetrack Diff Centre w/ aftermarket half shafts - Shockworks Coilovers - Single Piece Carbon Fibre Tailshaft - Malwood Opt3+ w/ short shifter - 4" X-force Stainless Exhaust - Jonny Tig 1800HP Stealth Black Intercooler w/ turboside airbox and battery relocations - Crow Race Valve Springs - KPM 1000HP In tank dual pump fuel system - 58mm Billet wheel Machined into my existing 3576 turbo, rear housing ported and a 40mm flapper fitted - 1000cc Injectors and custom tune with Ngauge interface - Copy F6 Bumper - 19" FPV Twisties - DJR Bobtail Spoiler Much like so many have done in the past with their threads, I want to be able to share any info I have on my current list of mods in the hopes it aids with people future mod choices. Any questions feel free to ask. Its gonna be a bit hard to post some photos as I'm writing this on my lunch break but will post a few via Tapatalk below Some quick photos from my phone
  9. Hi all, Am a full newbie to the fordxr6turbo forum, or any forum for that matter, and just thought I'd share my experience in converting my BA mk2 XT wagon into a turbo/manual/lLSD equipped weapon. Got a bit fed up with how much choice Expensive Daewoo fan's have when it comes to a quick wagon and was always pretty cut about ford never making a BA or BF (or even FG) wagon that had some poke. Massive missed opportunity. Also, every new car on the market is a sh*thouse-suv-dog walking- sunday driving-gumby driven poo box, so making a fast taxi was a no-brainer in my books. I've actually had the wagon for 8 years and used it for everything. Ranging from carrying a few hundred kilo's too many concrete bags in the boot through to weekend camping trips in the hills near where I live. It's actually pretty amazing where you can get one if you really try. Especially when it's your bed for the night and is the only car in the group that has a 'banging stezza'. Anyway, I got a bit of inspo from looking at other members conversions on this forum where they'd converted their taxi's into turbo WMD's and thought I'd give it a red hot crack. So I got excited one night after a couple of bevvy's and found myself as being the proud owner of a beaten up xr6 turbo ute. 5 months later and I can finally say the conversion is complete and the wagon is running sweet as a nut. Completely stock in every way apart from a cold air snorkel from an FPV typhoon and a Turbosmart BOV and Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator. Have no idea what power it's putting out but it's enough for me at the mo. Am looking to get a tune done at some stage in the future but the bank account won't allow that for a while so I'll just keep it as-is for now. I got some gangstaaaaaaaaa wheels for it too and reckon they set the thing off perfectly. Will post again soon to cover off on the issues I ran into along the way. The reason I joined is to share what I came across during the conversion process cause I ran into heaps of conflicting advice from this forum and others and just thought I'd help clear things up where I could.
  10. MARLY

    Towing capacity

    I have a ba series 1 xr6t that's lowered. It says im right on the capacity to tow my van at 2300kg. But it doeant feel like its pulling that well and struggles. Is this because my car is lowered and has 19 inch rims? What are the implications. I get nervous towing it.
  11. Hi Guys, I am in the process of developing a paddle gear shift setup (pretty close to complete) for the FG Falcon auto gearbox. I have had the prototype working well in my car for about a year tweaking paddle shape, switch mechanism design etc. I need to get an idea of paddle (the bit that you touch) powdercoat colours that would be suitable as I have seen a couple of different vehicle interior colour schemes. My XR6 Turbo has silver trim so silver or maybe just black would be suitable. I have a friend that has a G6E that has gloss black trim where the silver bits are on my car so I would think black would be suitable in his case. I did a set in Gloss black but I didn't like the look of it. The set in the photos below (with white background) are powdercoated Satin Black which I quite like (probably hard to tell from the photos though). I will pre-empt questions about why the paddles are stationary rather than rotating with the wheel. The simple answer is that there is just not enough room between the steering wheel rim and the indicator and wiper stalks especially when they are pulled (high beam and wash) where the stalks almost touch the back of the steering wheel. I figured it is good enough for the following exotic cars so our humble Falcons should be OK with it: Ferrari F12, 458, 488, 599 Aston Martin DB11 Lamborghini Merchialago Lamborghini Aventador (I am sure there are more, these are just the ones I have noticed) There are also a couple of photos of an older prototype installed on my car. Any suggestions of paddle colours would be great or any other feedback.
  12. Hey all, long time reader first time poster. My 2011 mk1 fg xr6t has been modified and tuned. A week after the tune it started running sh*t and threw code P1358. We checked the coils, swapped them around etc and each coil works fine. The pcm stopped sending signal to the coil for cylinder 5 though. Got a new computer and car is at ford now for keys to be married to new ecu and them tune to be uploaded into new ecu. Does anyone know why the pcm can sh*t itself like that and what can be done to prevent it from happening again? Nobody can give me answers, seen it happen to another xr6t at the same time from another tuner. Thanks in advance
  13. Hi everyone well I already own a wrecked ba xr6t with all parts perfect except right hand door and dashboard and have a ba xr6 that needs new engine trans rear sub frame now that parts sorted. After I swap my engine rear sub frame and transmission into the standard xr6 can I just swap computers and turn it on or do I have to change all my looms as well ?? Please help
  14. Dean01

    BA Tailshaft

    Probably been asked before .... will an NA Xr6 tailshaft bolt to a turbo Xr6 car is a btr box and iv got an na tailshaft lined up till I buy an upgraded one from hardy spicer.
  15. Hey guys I own a ba xr6t 5 speed manual and my uni chip ecu decided to start a fire so I’m after a new ecu, looking for something that’s decent cheers
  16. Total Newby here, Odd question, but am thinking of picking up an ex work 2011 XR6T for my wife (only $8K with 100K on it). I'm just worried about how much power it has and was wondering if there is any bolt on device that can reduce power / response while she drives it but can then be switched back when I jump in. Was thinking something like a pedal max...but not sure they go down on response, only up? Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Steve
  17. Hi Guys, Been a while since I've posted but loving the car so far, retune will happen mid-year hopefully but until then I'm trying to get it up to scratch in every other way. My front end is apart as I realised one of the factory hot pipes (rubber) has perished due to oil (see:little splits/cracks hardening etc.) so a guy locally had a full factory second hand set up on gumtree so I bought the lot. Sadly he recently lost his car due to mistaken identity (jerks). Gave me a lot of good info as his BF Turbo was in pristine condition. Now I have the entire front end of the car apart/exposed, are there any items people would recommend changing/checking whilst I'm here? I've heard the Boost control solenoid usually could use a clean or check and I'm generally going to check all the hoses and bolts that I can. Key fact here is that I am still able to get very cheap parts and things that would normally be very expensive I may have the ability to still get at a good price(aftermarket). Loved that Ford still sell the duct (oversized rubber rad hose) for new @ $320 I can post pics of how apart I've got it if anyone would like me to. cheers. Nathan
  18. Anyone know why my bf xr6t is making a clunking/clicking/tapping noise, its coming from the front left I think!? I took the wheel off and I think I checked all the bushes and they seemed fine but im nomechanic, only one I was abit worried about was the ball joint bush, it wasnt split just looked like wornish? I also attempted to check the ball joint and no noises by shaking the wheel.. I didnt jack up both sides though if that effects it? It was really dry though when I unbolted the upper control arm. And its also worse when theres passengers in the car and when turning left, I was thinking power steering because if im turning the wheel left to right while idling you can hear a click but no leaks or no fluid loss. Any help would be much appreciated before I take it to a mechanics and get absolutely raunted.
  19. Thought I'd finally make a thread on my car, purchased her back in Oct '14 and this year finally got around to getting it tuned and ready for Powerplay May '16 and made 308rwkw/413rwhp Got the car pretty much exactly as I want it, but as all would know the power bug has bitten and I want more! Anyways lets rewind back just a bit.... This was the day I got her and now..... and the powarrrr
  20. Anyone had diff mount bolts fail? Not the centre bolt but the side? Would it be easier to drop the cradle or the fuel tank to replace?
  21. Hey guys Ive recently (well in the last 12 months) put a Genuine F6 body kit on the front of my FG XR6T tonner Ute. After I had a little run in with a fence I decided an upgrade would be better than a repair. So I thought Id document the journey and recorded parts & prices in case anyone else is interested in doing the same thing. DECISION When doing an FPV body kit there are 2 main routs you can take; Genuine or Fiberglass, each with their benefits & drawbacks. -Basically going genuine will cost a hell of a lot more & you will probably have difficulty finding individual parts for an appropriate price. But it will fit 100% and be plastic meaning it will be more hardy if it catches or scrapes on gutters. The easiest option is to check in with FPV focused wreckers for complete body kits straight off the car. -All after market kits are Fiberglass, which tends to (the internet told me this) crack and splinter more than plastic as it is not as Flexible. It will most likely need massaging & trimming to fit properly and a lot more prep-work for a good paint finish. However... with bumpers on ebay starting from $300 they are far cheaper, especially considering that they have the lower grill surround, upper grill surround & fog light surrounds already in the mold which genuine can cost $300 each & are very hard to find. There are also ones that are molded to suit the XR style headlights if you prefer to keep that look. I would genuinely recommend people go this rout if they have the time to prep the bumper or want to have a go painting it themselves. I went the Genuine rout, mostly because this is a daily work & leisure ute that will certainly see gutters, and because I underestimated how many other parts there where to find, and the cost & difficulty in acquiring them. Just for the front end parts I spent over $2500 before paint. SHOPPING LIST Here is my receipt for the front end & side skirts. Purchasing the bumper in early August 2015 & finally getting my hands on a pair of fog light surrounds in mid January, it was a drawn out process that took a solid 6 Months on eBay, calling wreckers and shopping around. Collected parts from Sydney Special Vehicles, FTG AutoSalvage, Macarthur Auto Parts, eBay sellers: mr.fpv, ikeech, mrcarparts.59 and Gumtree Genuine: -FPV Bumper: $900 -FPV Upper Insert : $300 -FPV Upper insert rear molding: $205 -F6 Lower Insert: $250 (slight damage) -FPV Fog Light surrounds & brackets: $270 -Stone/Splash Guard Extension lip: $100 (bargain) -FPV Ute Side skirts + Brackets, cabin only: $680 Aftermarket: -Upper Grill: $210 -Lower side Grills: $140 -F6 Headlights: $199 -Stainless bolts for stone guard: $15 -Short button head screws for grills: $5 BUMPER Bumper was the first thing I picked up. Found it on Gumtree, new, never used, was in storage for project that never eventuated so $900 is a good price. All the parts are the same for F6 & GT until you talk about the lower grill area, that's the only difference. Upper Insert & the Upper Insert rear molding. I didn't even know the rear molding existed until I tried to put it all together, It basically clips the front insert & bumper together & provides screw holes for the grill. Luckily the guy I bought the front piece from knew what I was on about because I have never actually seen one listed on eBay. Probably the parts I over-paid the most for. F6 Lower Insert. Mine was missing the tow point cover and had some deep scratches in it that were bogged before painting, but the piece was still a bit pricey. The single hardest part to find for a 'reasonable' price. Eventually came across them on my fortnightly wreckers ring around. There was 2 other pairs I saw previously on eBay but were asking $400+ Chrome plastic surround with metal brackets to mount the fog light. The Splash Shield Extension lip was another part with little information that I only knew existed after asking another forum user. The FPV bumper is about 100mm longer and slightly lower (enough so that I now scrape when parking into gutters with stock suspension) I did however get a good deal on it. Was getting a new splash shield to replace my broken one so I messaged the eBayer about it who happened to have one and threw it in for an extra $100. Which is very good considering there's used lips on eBay atm for $300+. It bolts to the splash shield using existing screws. However mounting to the bumper is apparently done from factory with large plastic rivet thingys, so instead I got some stainless dome head bolts & lock nuts. Here's the Stainless bolts I used for the splash shield, Button head screws for the grills and you'll most likely need extra Scrivits or Christmas tree plugs for re-mounting mud guards, as I got out the angry pliers to remove them. For the Grills I went after market. They're stainless, cheaper, fit perfect, look the same and in the case of the Upper grill don't come with an F6 outline in them, which would look silly if you don't plan to put an F6 badge there. Find them on eBay. There's also the option of a central lower grill but I wanted the open Intercooler look. If going for a GT front the lower grill & insert will be different. There are only 2 shapes of FG headlight; XR & non-XR. Meaning the base model lights are the same as FPV, which keeps the price down for us. I went with aftermarket Sydney Special Vehicles Headlights though because they're cheaper for the same look, you can feel the lacking build quality though. I didn't like the look of the DRL/ fairy light options & already had HID kits ready to attach. Now the Wheel arch splash Guards have an ever so slightly different profile around the bottom of the bumper. You can spend the extra $500 or so on a full FPV set, or do what I did with some cutters to make them fit better & mount solid. Remove the bottom section of the mud guard. Cut off the outer screw point. Then Cut along the back edge about yay far. You can then remount with that tail part poking under the lip extension and secure in the same position but with only 2 bolts and some new Christmas tree plugs. Profile is still a little different but not $500 different Removing the old bumper involves 2 bolts under the bonnet; either side of the upper grill & then 2 on each corner of the bumper, accessed by pulling back the wheel arch mud guards. There's then 2 small bolts at the back of the under bumper splash shield. Un-clip the corners of the bumper, unplug the fog lights & it should all come off. Swap out the headlights and your good to put on your new bumper. All mounting points line up perfectly so just bolt it all back up. SIDE SKIRTS Now the Side skirts I lost the photos of. (Phone went swimming) But they were Genuine, new & in blue. There is a Chrome insert at the front of each that clips in, which for the pair goes for around $100, however mine came included with them. They also require 4 aluminum brackets (2per side) which I also lost the photos for. The wrecker who quoted me the $680 didn't realize there were brackets at first but called me back once they found out and included the ford brackets new in packaging for me at the same price. (ftgautosalvage, would recommend, were very friendly & helpful even with my regular calls asking for the same parts) I then had the panel beater fit them as I was doing 12hr night shifts at the time, but you could make your own brackets or ghetto rig them up if you wanted. PAINT I had the bumper painted for cheap by a local shop (Not my first choice as they were too busy) when it first showed up. Found the paint code used on 50th turbo wheels and had the fangs painted to match, scratches in the lower insert bogged and painted gloss black black along with the FPV logo section of the bumper. The rest was painted 09 Lightning strike with a pair of indicator mirrors. Left the parts with them, $300 and took about 3 weeks. Result was not good they must have painted the whole thing in the darker colors then masked up & put the silver over top. They're lines & paint job were good but the silver didn't match at all. So once the side skirts turned up I had them done at my preferred local shop. $800 Left the car with them for a few days. They blended the sides of the bumper into the quarter panels & bonnet. Took 7 blending coats but it turned out 90%, can only fault if your trying to find it at certain angles to the light. Painted & fitted side skirts which came out perfectly and didn't need any blending. RESULT Went from this: To This: Along with a new Bonnet, PW Stage2 Intercooler, side mount number plate, Indicator mirrors, 50th Anniversary Badges, stickers & a Bobblehead! TLDR: Genuine F6 bodykit, spent over $4000, should have bought an F6 to begin with... I'm now even more scared of roos. Looks F*cking Epic though!
  22. Hi all, I am now about 75% through my project of fitting late model running gear into a 1966 Mustang Coupe. Engine: Ford Barra 270t Gearbox: ZF 6 speed To share my progress along the way I have built a website to capture it all. It will be updated as the project continues. If anyone has questions I am happy to answer them. Hopefully the site will give some inspiration to others trying a conversion a little bit different or with the Fg setup. Engine and gearbox mounts are now complete so have a look. Site is www.boostedford.com
  23. I own a 2004 ba xr6t with a standard turbo. I have noticed that when my turbo spools under load (generally in 4th or 5th gear) it makes a strange surging noise. The spool does not sound constant like it should. I have no idea what the problem may be. Looking for ideas? Thanks
  24. I've got 19" 50th anniversary turbo rims that I love so much that I've bought a second set. (matching trailer) However my issue has been load rated tyres. In the factory 245/35/19 I can only get a 93rating (650kg). Local Bob Jane guy said they upped the Aspect ratio and fitted 245/40/19, 98(750) to a GS ute a while ago and haven't had any clearance issues so far. Speedo is 3.8% off. Also thinking possibly 255/40/19, 100(800kg), 5% off. Specifications for the One Tonner say max rear axle load is 1700kg so if I got to 1600kg worth of tyre rating that's enough for me. I also what the bigger numbers so I can register my trailer with a higher Load capacity. So whos done this before and had experience? How does upsizing affect acceleration, drag times, launching, handeling, cruising revs etc? Considering the same brand/pattern tyres. Also how would I find out the weight rating of the rim itself? The local parts department potatoes aren't that helpful, they couldn't even find my wheels on their system & said they must be an aftermarket option. http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tire-size-calculator-tire-dimensions http://www.bobjane.com.au/info/load-index-speed-symbol/
  25. Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers
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