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THE UNFORTUNATE END TO ALL BA FORD FALCONS ARTICAL HERE! ALL BA PCM/ECU'S WILL ALWAYS FAIL THERES NO PERMANENT FIX ONLY TEMPORARY AT GREAT EXPENSE AS OF 2025 ITS 2K UPTO 3K FOR REPAIRS ITS NOT IF IT WILL FAIL ITS WHEN SADLY countless workshops have customers coming in for failed PCMs in the BA series Daily at one stage at its peak there had been 8340 people around Australia in 24 hours with BA PCM Failure Extensive Research and Automotive Experts have found the following. - so after doing tons of research again and speaking with Haltech, and Hootons harnesess which they done whats needed for the whole permanent fix on the Mighty Car Mods XR8 Series videos, so I found with the BA ECUs they actually used Lead Free solder, as to be more environmentally friendly which is why they ended up failing XR6T and XR8 Fail quicker because the engine bay temps are way higher but ALL BA PCM/ECU'S WILL ALWAYS FAIL ITS NOT IF ITS WHEN SADLY as it's 110% unavoidable but you can stretch the life of it for like 12 months by paying 2k to repair but even then it could break the next day because these BA ECUS are all bad and being 20 years old they are all moments away from failing the same way if you hit a pothole speed bump anything ready since all the BA ECUs are made the same way and there is no permanent fix its only all temporary only permanent solution is haltec which is all up 5 to 6 grand I was looking online just before to see if it was possible to reflow the joints with lead solder so that even the repaired ecus that you send to get repaired can be permanently fixed but it's basically impossible, so when you send you're pcm ecu to be repaired they have to use the lead free solder on the repaired ecu, which after asking a few people on the xr8 page and xr6T pages aswell they also confirmed they had to end up getting a whole stand alone haltech ecu setup which cost around 6k with all the adapter harneses and so on for the XR8 models and around 5 5500 for 6 cylinder models with the BTR 4 speed and manual versions which is a crazy price So when it went over that bump that would of caused that lead solder to end up cracking or snapping apart when was why when I poured boiling water over the ecu it was able to start up untill it cooled down and then wouldn't be connected to the solder and shut off So it would of happend any time any day anywhere and just driving to the shop then parking getting shopping you can come out goto start you're BA and it'll have cracked or snapped and won't work anymore if it does it'll have misfires or basically limp mode very sluggish and just absolutely terrible to drive which you can't avoid and eventually it'll snap or crack more and then it'll simply not start the car anymore and you're choice is either keep repairs them for 2-3k with prices rising weekly or go the haltech route 5-6k but beware if going haltech you're car is now illegal to be on the road and will be impounded instantly which is a real shame sadly but it's the same laws in all of Australia so basically the days of the BA FALCON are coming to a close and soon everyone will just have a garden ordiment to look at and remember all the memories it's sad but it's unfortunately how it is with the BA falcons, everything was fixed in the BF FG Models and this PCM issue is non exisistant in the BF FG Models but for BA sadly there time has come to a end. - Raining Pistons
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I'm dealing with an issue on my 2003 BA turbo manual where the fuel pump relay is not getting a trigger signal from the PCM. The car is tuned with an SCT flash tuner, but this was done years ago, this issue is only recent. The fuel pump does not get a signal from the PCM to prime or run. Sometimes disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reset will fix it, sometimes it won't, but eventually it stops working and won't work again until reset. The fuel pump and all its wiring after the fuse box is fine, the car runs without issue if I bridge out the fuel pump relay with a jumper wire. I have swapped and tested multiple relays and changed the inertia switch, didn't fix it. The wires between the PCM and the fuel pump relay are fine (<1ohm), and all the PCM pins and connectors look fine, so I'm convinced the PCM isn't opening the ground signal to open the fuel pump relay (it does have 12v on the coil side). When it happens it throws code P0230 fuel pump relay primary circuit malfinction. Has anyone encountered this before and has any idea where to look next? Is my PCM dead? Any advice is appreciated, thanks
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Hey, So I just picked up a t56 manual conversion for my BF XR6. I got an ecu that has "BF XR6 Manual" Written on it but in the serial number on the sticker it has "BA". Is there anyway to tell if its BA or BF by the serial number or is there somewhere with a list or a place I can search to make sure I have the right one as I've heard the pin-outs are different between the two? Or did I just get super lucky and it just happens to say BA and I'm being paranoid? Cheers for any help. I've also heard that NA and Turbo ecu's are different and NA ones don't have boost control features even with a tune. Can someone confirm this? This thread could aslo help others in the future with any confusion. Again, cheers. -
I have an 04 BA XR6T that I've done upgrades to. Went off to get it tuned using Hp tuners but tuner stated he cant communicate with ECU as its been flashed with SCT. I don't have the SCT as. I bought the car without knowledge of it being tuned. My question is, are ford still able to reflash BA back to stock, or what are my other options Ecu codes are A3HC ABU-244
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hey all, got a mk1 fg xr6t. got tuned to 390rwkw on 98, all the supporting mods for it. car was running nicely right up until a week and a bit later, the pcm stopped sending signal to coil 5. swapped coils around and the coil from cylinder 5 worked in other cylinders. new ecu and new coils (genuine ford not aftermarket junk), ecu calibration from ford and some $$$ later, it's still misfiring. ran vac tests, checked injectors and adaptors. only thing that remains the same is harness, which hasn't been touched in any way so unsure of how it could have made the first pcm driver fail. fingers crossed the second computer isn't f#@ked. has anyone else had these issues and if so how were they resolved? my tuner isn't a ford specialist but has tuned a good handful of high power barras without fault. my fg and another customers (his is mk 2) got pretty well all the same parts and got work done at the same time have the same fault. (both copped code p1358) but my car was perfect for a week and his car didn't even make it to final stages of the tune. my tuner and another local-ish tuner have beef which I don't want to become a part of so no jumping ship or naming them. any help would be appreciated because it's been near a month and I miss driving my car and feeding commodores
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Hey all, long time reader first time poster. My 2011 mk1 fg xr6t has been modified and tuned. A week after the tune it started running sh*t and threw code P1358. We checked the coils, swapped them around etc and each coil works fine. The pcm stopped sending signal to the coil for cylinder 5 though. Got a new computer and car is at ford now for keys to be married to new ecu and them tune to be uploaded into new ecu. Does anyone know why the pcm can sh*t itself like that and what can be done to prevent it from happening again? Nobody can give me answers, seen it happen to another xr6t at the same time from another tuner. Thanks in advance
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Hi guys, new here. I'm doing a FG long block into BA conversion also a t5 to t56. The engine harness is for a ZF 6 speed auto, but my BA ECU is tuned for a t5 manual. Will it be okay to run with the automatic connections taped up? Or will the Canbus wiring cause trouble?
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HI, I have a question which noone including google is not able to answer. Torque Management or Torque reduction. Is it active in the pcm on a 02 ba running a BTR trans. If so, how does it measure torque output?
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Hey guys, I had to get a new ECU, due to the old one crapping out on me. Finally sourced one, but when I did, the Ford contractor who swapped it out for me, could not put my VIN number into it. Apparently, this is something that Ford does not allow any more. The reason this is the issue is because the car is tuned and the program is on an older version of a CAPA tuner, which is only unlocked for my VIN. Does anyone know any sorcery or black magic that would make my VIN stick in a different ECU?? Whoever comes back with a workable solution, in Sydney, has got a case of beer of their choosing shipped to them anywhere in Australia. Much appreciated, Z.
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Just did ecu & TPS resets on 05 ba2 xr6 na auto daily beater. Driving smoother, nicer with at least 50rwkw more! Haha. Noticed a quiet drumming, tapping,rattling noise from drivers seat. Idling, no extra elec load on. From in behind (in front of,) ICC maybe, hard to tell. Can't hear once moving. Thinking blend door motors, but not loud enough. Seems to deep a noise to be relay. No codes, lights indicated. Any theories? Cheers.. -
Hey I have a Ba XR6T which is totally stock apart from a wastegate actuator that runs 7psi and a K&N air filter. Recently I have had an intermittent electrical issue that kills my engine and after pulling over the car starts again 99% of the time straight away, pretty dodgy when it happened under boost making a smallish move on the motorway! I've had it to iCar Kallangur and had some relays changed (it's happening a little less) and according to their scan it isn't earthed and shouldn't even be starting.. They said it is a computer/ electrical issue and needs to go to Ford new computer etc.. I know nothing about mechanical or performance upgrades. I figure if I am going to get a new computer that there has to be an improved solution that is better than the factory part Ford will charge me a fortune for. I love my car owned it for 6 years. Wanted one ever since I was first dusted on the highway back in 2004 outside of Orange. I'm in Brisbane north side any help/ advice that I can get would be awesome.
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Hi guys has anyone ever use a bf manual ecu to in a ba ?? We can't seem to get it to work, trying to rule out weather its faulty ecu or if it's even possible? -
Hi guys wondering if a (bf typhoon manual ecu) work in a ba xr6turbo
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Hi all, I've got a BA XR6 turbo and according to my mechanic, my ECU seems to have had it. Apparently, a common thing with these units. The particular part number in question is discontinued with Ford and second handers are as rare as hens teeth it seems. This might be a long shot, but just wondering if anyone here has any connections or knows someone who knows someone (We called just about everyone in the country who does spares). ECU code: ABU-214 / 3R23- 2A650-HE Much appreciated!
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I purchased an 03 BA XR6 project that has been sitting in a shed. When I fitted a new battery to it to try and start it, it didn't crank. Code is showing up on the stereo and the immobiliser hand is on the dash also. I cant hear the starter relay click either. Can the PCm and BEM lose connection/programming after sitting with a dead battery for a while? If so I guess a trip to the Ford dealer is the only way to get it working again? Thanks for any help.
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Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers
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Hello all, After a lot of researching and testing for the problems of my car going into limp mode it has been found that the ECU is cooked.. I have a 2003 BA XR6T 4 SPD AUTO and I am trying to replace the ECU. It apparently is the early ECU's which is a ABU214.. Can anyone help me/give me advice where I can find a second hand ECU that will suit my car, or any other options that are available to me? Thanks in advance! Also forgot to add I have contacted Injectronics and Logicar, and they both are unable to help.. The ECU is beyond repair, my only option is to replace it.. And NO ONE has any of the ones im after! -
Hi am new on here ive got a ba xr6 turbo 03 model that keeps going in2 limp home mode I sent the ecu & computer off to get tested and they said it was all good so replaced the throttle body that worked 4 a week them same sh*t so replaced the waste gauge and still doing it so took it 2 ford they couldnt tell me wht it was doing it so they said take it 2 automatic place done that & it threw up the following codes p0230,p0753,p0758,p0763,p0768,p1465,p1474,p1534,p1748 and they said that the gear box is still like new so either indicates ecu issue or a wiring issue please post your comments as ive got a appointment with the auto electrician im not made of money
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Hey fellas, bit of a problem I've been having with my 05 turbo. I would be driving along at te speed limit and all of a sudden the entire car would just shut down. It would miss for about 1 second and then all systems down. This has happened 3 times and I've been able to pull over, turn the electrics off and back on again and the car would start. There have been no running issues with the car. The car only does this when it is warm. The most recent time I had to get towed back to my house. Same problem, although this time the car wouldn't start. The electrics still work one the car has stopped, and turns over but won't start. Dash lights flash as engine cuts out when driving. I suspect a crank angle sensor or an issue with the ecu. Any thoughts or has this happened to anyone else? Cheers
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Hii I was looking at purchasing the kwp2000 plus, its suggested on sevral forums and Sales websites its compatible with ford ecu, able to diagnose, and reprogram the ecu, I wasnt too sure about it, I could believe it will diagnoise ecu errors cant see it being able to reprogram?? Anyone use one? Or have any experience with similar products they can suggest ?? Here is the a link http://www.kwp2000.info/ Cheers!
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hey guys so in my normal style I started off doing somthing I knew nothing about! its all apart of my style what I was doing was removing the icc so I could install some gauges I just jumped straight into it didnt bother to disconnect the battery rookie mistake! any how, half way thru the alarm starting going off and I figured it was time to disconnect the battery so I did, I finshed what I had to do and now when it came to starting my car it wouldnt start at all , I would turn the key to acc n all the lights were on but wouldnt start, the raido read "code error", and from what I have read it just takes half an hour or so to go back to normal as it is the origanal unit so no code is needed, but my issue now is the car wont do anything at all it dead nothing happens when the key is any position , Im thinking its prob fuses or relays, I relize I will have to take it some where but is there any trouble shooting tips you guys have befor I get it towed, just to make you all laught the sun roof is open n garage is full! im off to k-mart to by a garden shade haha... any help would be great!
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