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  1. Today
  2. Hey again, without changing the factory cooler for the trans to a front mount cooler, is there a specific bung/hole to read the temperature for the 6 speed auto? And without putting and adaptor in the radiator hose to read the engine temp, is there a bung/hole to read the engine temperature? or can I piggyback off a factory sender without causing issue's with the ECU for both the trans temp and engine temp? .................both set-ups would be for electrical gauges... Cheers!!
  3. Yeah I have just the cig one with single din holder atm but broke it so looking for other options. But just fix this one Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
  4. yeah, that's over-rated... the pocket is the most useful part instead of the "hole" it leaves there (which isn't even that great of a feature)... the cig-plug thingo can support higher amp draw for charging devices than the USB ports on the lower part... just FYI, it has to be bent and trimmed significantly to fit in the smaller gap of a manual compared to the auto and I ended up removing it completely and sticking with the stock cig-plug and "more open" pocket with a bit of foam shoved down there to prevent things going into the holes haha
  5. Ohhh okay thank you. Yeah I want the USB points and stuff Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
  6. you'll have to do some stuffing about... the surround fits in the manual one with a bit of trimming though.
  7. Maybe I should have posted this photo. Basically I want to use the bit that is the different shape to the manual. So I can use one of the aftermarket radio brackets for the auto cars. Would just the darker bit work? Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
  8. it won't shift without cutting holes for the manual movement.
  9. Does anyone know whether the auto shifter surround will find onto the manual cars and if they would shift properly. I'm wanting to change mine to the Auto surround for a project I have lined up. Cheers
  10. That's pretty cool that a shop lets you use the dyno on a Sunday. Make sure you take vids
  11. I'm putting it on e85 and heading down to the dyno later today. I get the feeling that it's gonna be pretty rowdy
  12. Just did a bit of road tuning to check for knock. Was a touch there at 4 grand so pulled over and pulled timing out. Apparently the exhaust is working cos it makes 20psi by 3080rpm and creeps up to 23psi by 5700rpm...at 0% wgdc. It touched overboost at 5900 and 24.5psi and went blblblblblbl as they do. I'll address this in the tune and it'll be fine. Good news is no knock while any of this shenanigans was going on so I'll just have to live with it for now.
  13. Yesterday
  14. shows the value of being able to do it yoursel
  15. Ahaha maybe not, I still have a sore neck from looking up all day! I reckon you could drive in, drive out for $2000 with what I've done here. If you wanted a muffler then there would be another $400 to $600 roughly. The v-bands were $130 delivered for 4 of them, I bought 4 x 45's, 4 x 90's, 3 metres of straight and the resonator for $660. I used all the 45's, 1650mm of straight and none of the 90's. The 90's and some of the remaining straight will be used to make the dump for the big turbo and I made sure to have some spare bends in case. I already had the dump and cat but with them included, I spose all up the system cost around the $1000 mark.
  16. So...should I drive 40hrs for you to install my system? [emoji848] It looks straight 80% of the exhaust which is less than a falcon so why the price hike from xforce and still needs a hammer to the dump pipe to make fit! That's from Zane at Maxx Performance who said that and they still haven't changed it... I've got a B and FG series 4" dump pipes that I picked up second hand, although don't have a welder anymore (not that I can weld decent anyway) or a hoist. Pretty sure a local muffler shop would be as dear for a custom unit and probably not as neat as what you have even done there mate! I assume the clamps with those fittings were the most expensive part of it bar the dump pipe? I could never stand a 4" exhaust as it's just to loud, my catless 3.5" xforce system with a small rear muffler (after we found theirs was a restriction) was deep enough for me and was just under the threshold of droning when on the highway so can only imagine a wagon with a large cabin how bad it would be.
  17. It was 8 hours total to remove the old exhaust and make the new one etc. I reckon I could do the same in 6 hours next time I put a 45 over the cradle, after the small kick up from the straight pipe. Then I used a couple of 45s to finish it off to the resonator.
  18. Thanks mate. Definitely feels good to be getting back into it 🙂
  19. that's probably why it took 8 hours getting it cleanly over the rear cradle.
  20. Howd you go with getting over the cradle? that's where I gave up on mine.
  21. Curious to see how it goes mate, I suspect it will be perfect for my needs.
  22. ahh, all good. So just a billet wheel sort of rebuild setup. Can't complain with that as long as it's balanced correctly should spool a bit quicker than the stock 3582 CHRA, but that does depend on vane design/shape
  23. Same size as the stock 3582 wheels, no machining.
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