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  1. Today
  2. violetpop
    At this stage I dont think its down to spin city due to keeping it off boost and driving like a granny but I will monitor it. Would love to get to the bottom of it eventually!
  3. Box stock T.
    Cheers again buddy, the whole rear end feels alot more solid. No more third gear on /off the power clunk that use to exist with the flogged out old centre bush. After a bit of iffy start to the journey down to your place we got it all sorted and ya turned it around in record time to have old black betty tearing up the bitumen once again. New centre bush and bolt Check New rear housing Check New seals and oil Check New control blade bushes Check 2x New HD short shafts Check New tailshaft uni& centre bearing Check (what fun that was to do) Practically a whole new arse end Definitely a happy camper once again though. Thanks mate. Next on the list Clutch Plates lol....
  4. alpha
    Hey guys. I have a Bf ute with an after market reverse camera set up to my ICC screen. The camera does not have guide lines. My question is , if I do want the guide lines is it a just matter of changing the camera that have them or do I need to purchase a complete new system. Cheers
  5. k31th
    1. It'll be the HIM realigning the vents etc. Mine does it every time I've got the A/C on after turning off the car. 2. I've only had that happen from the T/C struggling with the extra power of a modded/tuned car and it'll often crack the shits and keep the light on (T/C off permanently, irrelevant of switch modulation) as you make too much power and go spin city
  6. violetpop
    Some more after hours hoist action! First up a fitted the bolt in cat section. Was able to re use the factory heat shield and secured them with some metal straps. The venom system fit well, no issues. Its quiet, basically sounds the same as stock at idle and just a little more noise when driving. Its perfect, just the way I like it. I sourced the boot/fuel door switch a little while ago and finally did the swap. Its a nothing job but damn I feel good when I fix stuff like that. Next up was the drive shaft rubber. Its wasn't too too bad but did have some small tears in it. Replacement is the only option. The car is booked in with cms and I will be dropping it off mid week.. Anyone want to guess rwkw? My setup is basic, k&n filter, monza cooler, raceworks 1000cc inj, walbro 460, fg turbo and turbo smart 12psi actuator. I'm thinking 260rwkw roughly. A couple off other issues have popped up last few days. 1. A noticeable thud down by the passenger floor/foot well. Its something air con related because I think it doesn't do it if I start the car with the air con already off. If its on and I start the car, the thud happens.. Any ideas? 2. The traction control light comes on randomly and can't be turned off. The only way is to turn the car off and back on again. In one case it came back on again and went away after a second shutdown startup. I did some quick research but nothing sticking out atm so I might scan it and see of anything comes up. From what I have seen when I did the brakes, the abs sensors look to be ok so it might be something else. In other news, my dash needs some serious attention. Its dry and chalky looking and really letting down the rest of the interior. Currently looking at options on how to fix it up.. Vinyl spray paint, some sort of ceramic coating. See how it goes soon. Fun and games really but very keen to see the results from the tune and how the transmission feels after.
  7. k31th

    My Build

    k31th replied to HI PSI's topic in 500+ Club

    good info, Steve
  8. HI PSI

    My Build

    HI PSI replied to HI PSI's topic in 500+ Club

    Dummied up, ready for wiring... It was supposed to happen today, but my wiring guy/tuner had issues with a car he was dynoing.. Next week it is... I found that the mating the spring in the boot and the coil was questionable, due to the spring seating lower in the silicon. The coil is long enough to reach the spring, but you can't ensure that it is correctly seated. I stretched the spring with some pointy nosed pliers until it was flush with top of the silicon, so that I could seat it into the coil before it engages the silicon. Also be aware that the silicon will separate from the coil when removing and the pill will fall into the spark plug valley under the coil bracket... The silicon is a snug fit into the bracket and takes some effort to remove..
  9. arronm
    Very strong
  10. bloodycrashboy
    you're going to need a network cabinet
  11. Tom Tucker
    Looks like an absolute animal. Props to you 👍
  12. bupalooga
    I had a NPC and now a Malwood clutch (both single plate) FG with 300rwkw. Both very similar feeling, NPC a little heavier. But whatever brand you go, get Malwoods upgraded alloy master and slave cylinders. The extra pedal pressure from a heavy duty clutch made my (and many others) factory plastic master cylinder snap and also my standard style slave leak while I had the NPC kit.
  13. JETURBO
    It’s a bit of a perfect storm situation Now as the converter that’s rated at ~ 2600rpm was only needing To flare at the Torque generated previously it then in turn only generates the allowed boost that the turbo could spool with the back pressure on the system. It’s common knowledge a stall converter will gain stall speed with an increase in torque generation... more initial torque more stall speed ... more flow ... more boost ... more Torque, literally a escalating situation against the Dyno roller. For as much as possible I keep consistent start time @ WOT before starting the run/pull on the Dyno. In this case it was just really a different kettle of fish and it actually really felt like a “Converter” vehicle this time ! Makes them fun The Aggression that this ute now puts down is epic and really worked the Dyno hard on the day !
  14. k31th
    npc twin plate
  15. Smithy09 Smithy09 joined the community
  16. jrfree
    Gidday, I have a fgx manual turbo, car is completely stock at the moment and the standard clutch has given way. looking for suggestions on a suitable clutch, thinking either mantic or npc. im not entirely sure what I’ll do with this car And how far I’ll go power wise but seeing as it needs a clutch I’d prefer to do it right, max power I can see myself taking it would be 400-500kw. any advice would be much appreciated. thanks
  17. Tom Oldfield Tom Oldfield changed their profile photo
  18. Mrs Jeturbo
    So I down skilled today and instead of being Mrs PM, I spent the day being J@s electrical TA 🤣 My calves are sore, my shoulders have had a work out, but we managed to get downstairs downlighting, feature lighting and GPO’s done and a few upstairs GPOs done also.... on house 1 LOL Now to do the rest of the upstairs GPOs and lighting .... then to finish off with all data and speakers which include the provisions for: - Ceiling Bluetooth/Wifi speakers - Data points throughout - Data to our locking system which is for the proximity door strike (meaning keyless) - XL Cable provisions for a swim spa down the back also. Working out where I want down lights will be the death of me one day LOL.
  19. Tom Tucker
    That's an epic result. How the hell do you get an 84rs on boost so hard so early? Clearly the larger rear housing... How much has to do with the converter?
  20. k31th
    good result
  21. Admin (as if)
    wow they build em faster every year nice
  22. Admin (as if)
    bloody keif stop breaking the forum oh azza I still need to do the new Drive belt & Idler & Tensioner metal upgrade pulley on mine.
  23. Trent0
    The falcon still lives! I bought myself a new Navara NP300 in December and have left the ute in the shed since. Last month I got the diff checked out by a nice local workshop and they found it had two bent axles, buggered bearings, rubbing of the internals and the inside of the housing as well as a few other average things. Ended up welding the tubes to the center housing too. It never felt right since I had it built in 2012. Happy to report it feels like a new car.
  24. Blue Barra Blue Barra joined the community
  25. Gyro Gyro joined the community
  26. k31th
    morning all, happy Monday
  27. Yesterday
  28. arronm
    Aeroflow is fine, I have used them on a few cars. The trick with all fitting is to use teflon grease so they dont gall. You should have fitted a pan with a drain.
  29. JETURBO
    Had quite a few members chase down some great prices on new Performance parts and of course I’m happy to help all members out wherever I can @Rob70 got the following Full Atomic timing chain kit,Full pump assembly, HD balancer with bolt, lower HD sprocket, Aeroflow 6664 Turbocharger complete with full SS gasket kit and correct Silicone joiners to suit his FG turbo all the way in N.Z ! Had @Porro back in for a new Drive belt & Idler & Tensioner metal upgrade pulleys
  30. JETURBO
    Ok I’ll cut this down into a few smaller updates and Keith can merge them as he feels Had Alex from @boakesautomarine look to try out a new housing on his 84rs as you may remember a few pages back he was rolling with a 1.01 6boost Vband, custom Dump into Xforce 3.5* out with the 1.01 and in with the 1.21 and what we were expecting as normal is a gain in lag but shift the power upwards in the power band and hopefully pick up a few numbers... Well what a story this told and as somewhat suspected the 1.01 was a decent bottleneck that only pictures can really emphasise !! Efficiency is key here old specs 1.01 - 27.5 psi tapering to 22.5 513rwkw and peak of around ~1150nm New specs 1.21 23.5 psi nearly flat and 517rwkw with a massive gain to ~1350nm and mountains down low. 84rs can leave the converter on 20+ Psi straight up ! If this ute can hook is has an easy 9 second pass in it with the stalled 6R80 Yes I’m pretty happy how this finished up Blue 1.01 red 1.21
  31. liamw105 liamw105 joined the community
  32. Puffwagon
    Gets 11.3L/100 on the highway too. That's pretty bloody good for a rig that size.
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