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Biddie beat me to it.... yea that's exactly right
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Fg n/a tr6060 gearbox clutch specs
Joenash85 replied to Joenash85's topic in Ford 4.0L N/A Discussion
I'm going to sound like a complete noob here, but with what you're saying is that, the ba/bf bellhousing is smaller than the fg turbo bellhousing?, or am I completely wrong? -
all XR6T/F6 use a 1.06 rear housing... the smaller FG XR6T turbocharger even has the same rear housing
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Cheers mate, massive help.
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Drain plug is just the lowest bolt, you'll notice its the biggest one of all of them. Fill plug on the diff housing itself, about half way up. Pretty sure its the opposite side of this photo. Its a hex plug, so it stands out, you'll know it when you see it
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Damn, ngl, I was hoping for a "yea, its an issue seen before on the forums" 😂 Also, in other news, I was donated a rear housing from my brother. WG flapper already welded, thinking about sending it to get an external gate setup welded on. Noticed it has "1.06" on it though. Do F6's (3582s) use 1.06 rear housings? Thought they used a smaller rear housing 🤔 Whats the standard for xr6 turbos and FPVs? Are they the same?
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Fg n/a tr6060 gearbox clutch specs
eff xr6t replied to Joenash85's topic in Ford 4.0L N/A Discussion
They just took the bell housing size as it didnt need the larger size to hold the stock power. You can still fit the same size 11inch clutch in a ba/bf bellhousing it just needs to be machined down on the cover which is what mal wood option 3 and direct clutch do with them. The Fg turbo bell housing was made to take the 11inch cover unmodified and has a larger ring gear with different starter position. -
Just to clarify though forged pistons aren't ok with detonation either best to avoid it as much as possible....
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there's more "pushing water" due to excess cylinder pressure, but that was fixed in tunes a while back and then we didn't hear much except for the high power blokes damaging them.
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I doubt I'll need to, I can clean up the block surface myself. I'm putting a factory gasket back on so there really shouldn't any reason to machine the block Hahaha yea that would probably work, however I'm a worrier, doing this will mean I'll never see why the leak occurred, and that just sounds stressful 😂 If I'm going as far as replacing head studs, there isn't too much more work to remove the head. At least from what I can tell from reading the workshop manual. Exhaust and intake manifolds will need to come off, and a sensor or two. Sounds alright to me.
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Cheers for the reply Could you give me a quick idea of where the filler and drain plugs are? Thanks again
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ouch... that's some fair dinkum carnage... good job big fella; in the safety shoes and everything
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Here's a thought...put the studs in and yank em down nice and tight. It might be just enough to stop the leak.
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So yeah being a slacker and all I only pulled off the timing cover for a look. Fortunately the new timing chain guides are fine and the atomic m8 stud is unscathed too. Happy days! So onto the carnage...Seems like the outer oil pump gear let go. Pics cos pics...
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Not to be negative but this could end up a much bigger job if you need to machine the block for your new head gasket.
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Chippo15 joined the community -
Nice result
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I should have been more specific, realised this when I posted 🤣 I have an oil leak between the block and the head, I have had MT inspect this and he's thinking its likely the head gasket. Its minor, but a leak nonetheless. To fix this, the head would need to be removed. Hence the preference to take the head to a machine shop after its been removed. So yea you're totally right, I have been a stupid amount of threads on this forum already to see how others have done all this without the need to remove the head, but because of this damn leak I need to. I'd rather play
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So finally got annoying bad idle/stalling sorted by Dave @CPV tuning in Mackay. Pleased to report it's purring like a kitten now with .7mm gapped plugs, gfb fpr + gauge and a fresh pcmtec 98 tune. ZF changes are firmer with 1 happy driver. Couldn't get the boost in any earlier apparently, but it is much more responsive than previous and don't need to ring it's neck to feel the full bean flavour. This must be a gtx64 wheel, which others have raved about, but doesn't seem that brill in this application. Great economy on highway for trip 1500Ks @ measured 10ks/l
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It's pretty easy when you know how. I would never remove the engine to do this, it's probably 6 times the amount of work. None of the stuff you want to do involves removing the head. You can fix the threads with it on, you can do valve springs and valve guide seals with it on and you can do head studs with it on. The car will already have a metal gasket too. Do a leak down test if you are concerned that the valves aren't sealing but they should be fine. Literally line it up to tdc, put both cam dots straight up, have no slack in the chain on the pass
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On a scale of 1 - just take it to a shop How difficult is it to DIY a timing chain and tensioner with the motor still in the car? With uni finishing in 3 weeks, I'll soon be able to afford a second sh*t-box which will allow me to work on the car at home, something I've been really, really keen to do. I have so many plans with the car, I just need to be patient lol. With 2 exhaust manifold bolts stripped, I have taken the time to assess the situation and work out a plan for next year with the car. The first question refers to these plans. I want to remove the
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Yea diff leaks are common unfortunately... no cradle dosent need to be removed, fairly straight forward drain old oil out, pump new oil in and your set... I used Penrite pro gear 80w140
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Haha the first thing the missus asked me when we saw the oil pump was, "so is there a billet upgrade for it?" Yes there is and yes I'll be getting one. I'm also gonna be going with a fire ringed copper head gasket cos that last one (athena split ring) cost me over $450 and is a one use thing.
- Yesterday
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Hey all, just need a bit of help as I cant seem to find any info on servicing the fg diff. I have a 2010 fg, its developed a little bit of a leak from the rear diff, it's also about time to change the diff oil. I'm just wanting a bit of information about how difficult of a task this is? Does the entire cradle have to be removed? Doesnt seem to be a lot of room. Cheers for any help, really appreciate it.
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LukeS joined the community -
Long time getting back to this. Luckily my pistons aren't stock. Added a fair bit more preload to actuator and that sorted it. So yea Turbosmart actuators appear to need extra preload in this instance.
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morning all, happy Monday
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