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My guess is 530awkw

haha sounds like a good plan get bum dyno tested

Went and retuned a car today, on an actual dyno, not my dyno though. Made 300rwkw at 15.5psi, so a good result. Also my car is frigging animal, I'll put it on the dyno soon just to see how accurate my arse dyno is

I currently drive a 66mm turbo with stock cams and a high stall, it's on so early I would happily go up a size or two with the turbo.

look up the turbo pressure chart if you can and compare it to the OEM one... see if you're happy with the difference in where it makes pressure at the lowest point. It's hard to say how much laggier it'll be, but 64mm turbo's have been used on these cars plenty of times over a OEM ~61mm turbo and some people are OK with the lag and some are not.

If its a street car, gtx3576 is more than enough. On the street you will notice lag more than an xtra 30-50kw. Besides, above 350kw you will start breaking other things, and find things you need to upgrade to keep up.

So I’ve got a manual turbo Ute on e85 making 600hp+ with a gt3582 & suppourting mods, now I bought a 2nd hand series 1 PRO64 with 0.7 anti surge housing 64mm turbs for it but want to put it on my stock g6e turbo which is auto and 98 only. Will the pro64 be too laggy for the 98 daily with the bigger housing?

morning all, happy Saturday 🪑

Thanks Puff. My pistons are good but to check you have to take the seals off. With the multi grips, how would you go about doing without scratching the piston on its way out? I used the caliper off and the brake pedal method with the caliper still hoooked up. Once the pistons are near the end of their range, you can twist and wiggle them out. To put the boot back in and get it to seal inside the caliper lip is a pin until I found this video. Heaps of people stated they pressed it with a screwdriver, their finger or something else in videos and forum but I found some part always came out and the video below was the best and most logical method to get the boot in. Protex front caliper kit is this one. Guy at the parts store said that from AU onwards, they are all the same seal sizes! Found my local auto shop had the Protex kit. Looks like this for anyone if they need a reference. I'll try sealant with the oil sump. I've done my front main seal and there is no oil leaking from the sump gasket I can see. I've cleaned it a few times and you can see one very very tiny hole. I reckon the sealant should work a treat. If the oil gets on the sealant then I know it wasn't the tiny little hole I thought of. Thanks Puff and El Andrew.

Cheers mate, it goes pretty hard. There's no fluid level sensor in the trans, just the temp. In my experience, which includes a lot of actual workshop experience, you need to top them up when they're cold. I know the manuals say different, but I do what I know works.

Thanks Puffwagon. Love your wagon by the way. Info sheet D/L from Penrite says 30-50 degrees critical. Can't see fluid settings on OBD apart from temp, someone suggested it has levels as well? Looking around seems most on here prefer Gulf Western. http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/tech_pdfs/154 ZF 6spd Filling Instructions.pdf Today did another start up and seems to drive OK if gears manually selected. Will do cold check Monday first thing.

Yeah remember that oil runs down and has a tendency to gather on a low point so that spot may not be your leak. I saw some powder stuff recently to help trace leaks - you clean everything down and dust on the powder which makes the leak more visible. I had a decent crack in my sump which I covered in two layers of gasket goo (Permatex ultra black) until I could get it fixed. So what Puff is suggesting is a good plan if that is indeed your leak. Mine worked so well I almost regretted getting it fixed properly.

360 to 370rwkw is realistic for a roller dyno. If I ever get mine setup I will fit that turbo (I have one on the shelf) and update when it happens lol

Can we all agree that OP is not likely to hit his goal of 400-410rwkw on 98 with a GTX3576? More like 370rwkw?

Furken yay Friday

Yes that's the thread. The amount of dyno graphs in that thread with boost levels and turbo specs is invaluable to the community, it should be made public.

morning all, happy Friday 🛋️

I'm reasonably sure which thread you're talking about... but the point of the bowels is it's stuff you can "read about and enjoy" but not stuff that's technical/helpful (in some cases, it also is, but that information should be, and is in this case for this specific instance) to a question somebody is asking/enquiring about... hopefully that's clear.

There is a thread in the bowels that is now only accessible by members, perhaps it should be available to the general public but closed to replies? It has the answers being asked here. @k31th

I went to ebay and typed in Falcon caliper kit and this was one of many listings. Use a pair of multi grips to remove the piston. That bit on the sump is from when the sump was cast in the foundry. If you are adamant that it is leaking from there then you can either get it welded, chuck some JB weld or fuel tank putty etc over it.

This is not how you check the level. It has to be dead cold and then you check it, you are probably 600mL to 1L low on fluid still. Do this before you pull the trans apart.

Hi guys Keith, Puff, you may have some information as well. Two issues I'm dealing with. In preperation of getting my car to go to the drags next week, I purchased new pads and thought I would check the seals and pistons of the front calipers whilst I am at it. On my daily, an Astra I was able to blow compressed air into the fluid line but I don't have a screw in fitting to do this for the PBR brakes (I'm sticking my blow gun nozzle and there is still a gap where air is escaping). To get the pistons out, I'm going for the brake pedal method but personally I'd like to do it with compressed air. What screw do you need to allow fittings to blow compressed air in the nozzle. Either way I will be able to get them out. Question 1) With rebuild kits (seals and rings for PBR calipers) however REPCO don't stock a rebuild kit nor Supercheap. Where can I get front brake caliper seal kits and is there a physical store I could pick them up? There are some brake online stores but but I don't believe that anything I order will get to my house in time so I can install it. Question 2) I've had this since I purchased the car. It seems part of the weld has been scuffed at some point. So much that I get the tiniest pinhole leak. It is very very small (maybe less than 50ml every 1500kms). Still is there some sealant or something I can do to stop it. It just seems a bit ridiculous. More worried about my brakes getting right. Just can't believe that you can't get rebuild seal kits from a store like Repco or Supercheap etc. See oil leak area in red circle in photo

Hey all. '07 TTG with 220km on it now and suffered terminal lack of forward motion. Gear selector display flashing and trans 'flaring' . Turned it off and as I was flat out at the time , chucked it under a cover in the back paddock. Now, 6 months later, I have just pulled the pan and mech unit, old oil was still red, not milkshaked but did smell burnt. Fitted new bridge seal and tube seals and about 6 litres of Penrite Semi-syn so far. Still had flashing gear selector. OBD scan said 'reverse gear incorrect ratio' when trying it for first time. Reset and no more flashing gear selector but still seems not right. Oil level checked after warm up and topped up twice. I did leave it without pan on for a week on the hoist when something else came up so I guess the convertor may have lost some juice. Still not driving as expected. I read somewhere about shaft/pump seal / incorrect gear ratio being a common fault so thought I'd ask around. Happy to strip it down, repack/ rebuild as necessary, have a hoist and it is not a daily. Going to be mostly the trailer hauler from now on for son's rally car. Where's good for parts? Got the seals from Auto tranz diff parts at Pooraka. There was a bit of glitter in the pan but not an alarming amount I'd have thought. Happy to hear others thoughts? Got good advice from here when I had suspension issues a few years ago. I did try reading a few dozen pages on here with regards ZF. Found a helpful stripdown thread on a Range Rover site but UK based.

Plenty of threads on the exact question you're asking man. Have a look in the turbo section and a few of the build threads

Thanks guys for your reply's cheers - I'm getting a bit of it will do same say nah. To clarify I was looking for 550rwhp on roller dyno that (is not a happy dyno) so 410rwkw on 98. I haven't decided as yet but do love the idea of a really fast spool for the streets. My last message from the seller id this Hey mate the gtx3576r is rated at 750hp so it should definitely make the power figures you're after and still spool fast. There is bigger turbos out there that can make the big numbers easier but they will lag.