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  1. Today
  2. I can't remember the first time, but last time it happened the car, would've been just under a full tank (3/4 tank minimum). I'm thinking I might have the O2 and the crank angle sensors changed first, then perhaps the fuel pump, and if that fails I guess it'll be the ECU... Guess I won't know till next Summer though.
  3. Does it ever do it when the fuel tank is reasonably full? I had the similar fault. When the tank was 1\2 or less and on a hot day - same symptoms as you report. Leave for a few hours and would it start and run fine as by then it was later in the day and cooler. Turned out to be a bad fuel pump
  4. The car has 12 tunes with a haltech plug in ECU, Usually it's cruising around on over 825hp @ wheels on E85. But really for driving in traffic there's not really anywhere to spool it up, So it isn't getting taken to those revs. Every now and then when there's a chance it gets to spool up, But obviously can't really floor it for long while staying within the speed limit.... Probably would use a bit less fuel on 98, which we haven't used since getting the car. It is flex fuel but only the first few tunes suit 98 as well. Interestingly when I rang Penrite the rep seemed to have no idea what they were talking about, And didn't have a clue about the HTHS number, The number they eluded to was so clearly wrong it was not funny. They also reckoned that the 20W-60 would be too thick for a Barra. Obviously that is not correct as many have used it and many have said that anything thinner, Gives too low pressure at idle after a hard time at events etc. It was a bit annoying that Penrite could not give an accurate HTHS number though. Pretty sure the 10 tenths 15W-50 is HTHS 5.28 So the 20W-50 should be even higher. The numbers the Penrite rep stated, were so far out it is not funny....
  5. Good outcome mate. Exact experience I had going from 10W40 to 20W60. I even found the 15W50 Penrite 10 tenths not quite enough. Do you roll around on the road at 1000hp all the time?
  6. Yesterday
  7. morning all, happy Tuesday 📔
  8. Hey all, I finally bit the bullet and took it in to find out what the issue was, it turned out the old standard back half of the muffler was blocked, tuner took it off and went from 200rwkw to 310wrkw. Ended up throwing on a few upgrades and picked it up with 320rwkw on 15psi.
  9. Look for Ford headliner replacement. Lots of guys can do it, there are mobile ones that will come to you. Cost is circa $400
  10. Yes, I too would like to know what the solution, Can someone please let us know if Ascendancy254 solved the problem !
  11. BarraT

    OL-fault ..help

    Hi, Jas98, did this issue get sorted in the end ? can we please post the solution for us , Thanks heaps
  12. Thanks mate! Yep, you never know. Just wish I had the space for more cars!
  13. All the best with it mate! I anticipate you'll come back to an FG one day...
  14. Last week
  15. Also mine worked slightly loose, but it was just the bolts. Check those (might have to remove the inner splash guard behind the front wheel to access the nuts)
  16. Thanks will take that in consideration. Probably a good idea.
  17. yeah, I'm not saying it's likely to happen, but it might, so budget for it then you won't be (as) disappointed if it happens.
  18. You really think this is likely to occur? I have seen quite a few people reach more then that on the stock engine for BA and last quite a while.
  19. how do you know it has swayed? on the dyno? I think it would be easier to just brace the tray you've got than make another one completely...
  20. Also, you should think about engine failure budget for that happening at 300rwkw+
  21. morning all, happy Monday 🪔
  22. Yea I was told about the limitations of the BA motor. Which is why im limiting myself to pushing to 300kw at this stage. I would look at strengthen the motor eventually if I wanted to push for more. Appreciate everyone's suggestions, il talk with the shop more about whether I really need the BTR built as its quite a chunk of the total cost and if its really not that needed and be ok with just an external cooler. Il pop in a guage as well to monitor the temps to hopefully avoid popping the box.
  23. Hi guys My XR6 Turbo had a battery relocation done upon tune and the workshop used an ANTZ battery relocation kit. After having this for 2 years and seeing my batter sway back and forward, the material that ANTZ make the battery tray out of has to much flex and I'm not a fan. I'm looking to make my own with stee/metal that has no flex. The tray is flat and then it has one centre piece to hold the tray up. Like I said, I aint a fan. My battery has rocked a few times and that shouldn't happen. Has anyone made their own battery tray or modified the ANTZ tray to give more rigidity and strength???????
  24. If the motor is healthy and you are strapped for a budget, you should just go with the mods you have listed. Transmission rebuild again I'm not sure. Talk to your workshop and see if they are pointing you in the right direction or just wanting some extra cash. If you had more money, I'd get an FG XR6 turbo motor and drop that in or build a motor to much greater strength with aftermarket internals. Beauty of the barra motor is the bottom end is the same for all the series. I think the cylinder head changed designs slightly but someone can confirm. Main changes between these motors were pistons, camshafts and stronger rods from BF xr6 turbo onwards.
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