xr6tForMe

Very cool. I hope the gasket fitting goes nice and smoothly. Looking forward to hearing about the racing on Saturday!

Good morning all!

Thanks! They look like they may come in handy!

Looks like you are getting plenty done. Well done!

Not sure if any of this might help, but here goes: Are the widebands reading that AFR is ok, or would widebands be seeing rich/lean and adjusting the fueling to compensate? If there is a boost leak, does the map sensor not still see the actual boost, and the tune is still ok? eg turbo is pushing enough air to make to make 25psi, but 5 leaks out, so there is still 20psi and map sensor reports 20psi and tune is ok? Would a converter problem explain "at 50% throttle getting up to 100kph, it uses 99.9 on the dash, then if you floor it, it drops to 80 something before going back up when the boost kicks in" ? Can you log boost and injector duty cycle when it is doing "at 50% throttle getting up to 100kph, it uses 99.9 on the dash, then if you floor it, it drops to 80 something before going back up when the boost kicks in" to see that they make sense together?

Have you gotten any further with this? Re: intake manifold gasket. I replaced one recently a little while back on my BA wagon. Idle was rough, but under acceleration the engine felt close to normal. I think that is because with throttle closed, there is more vacuum and a greater proportion of air (ie way too much) gets sucked into the intake/cylinder. With throttle open, there is less vacuum to suck unmeasured air in and a greater proportion of correctly measured air going into the cylinder through the intake manifold, so the air fuel ratio is much closer to correct. Its been a long time since I had issues with coils on the BA, but I did replace them once with cheap coils and they failed quickly after replacement. I dont think I had any codes with forscan, but its a long time ago that it happened. It was a real pain because I incorrectly ruled out the coils because they had been replaced. Maybe check the plugs? See if the gaps look ok, that there are no marked from arcing down the insulator and that they all look the same colour? Using more fuel seems to indicate engine problem, rather than driveline, but I think tailshaft shaking happens worse under heavier load than under light load.

I dont think the BA gives a code for misfire?

What car do you have?

I am not sure about that one. Do you know if it happened before the cradle was swapped? If it was not, that rules out something in the gearbox. If you jack the car up and turn the wheels by hand, is there any difference in movement/play from one side to the other? I am wondering if its to do with an axle, but that is only a guess.

The TBM brakes post is so general, it may as well be "Engine cylinder piston count does not matter". The second one has a bit more detail, but does not really seem practical to use for applying to Falcons. I think the relevant part for the discussions here would be to directly compare the brake options available for Falcons. I did a quick calculation of the pad surface area on the 4 Piston front Brembos vs the 6 Piston front Brembos and the 4 piston pads are only about 65% of the area of the 6 piston pads. That would have to make a decent difference to the heat handling capacity of the brakes. The C5 calipers with 325mmx32mm discs were offered by Ford as an upgrade to the stock Turbo brakes (322mmx28mm disks) and it seems that one of the biggest difference with those is the pad surface area.

I might see what I can do for photos next time. My FG seems to have more of the general wiper scratches across the whole screen, but, fewer bad scratches when compared to the BA. I am also curious what might happen using other items, like "cut and polish", "gumption" or "jif" compared to the "cerium oxide", so I might do some testing on some other glass.

You are not that far from me. Yes, I now have 2 sets of 6 piston front brakes. I have an FG and a BA, The brakes are the same as far as clearance goes. Brembos for Falcons are not cheap, but are good! I will sort out a time with you to test that your wheels fit.

Sorry, I did not take photos. I think it could be pretty hard to take good photos of scratches / no scratches, but I might see what I can do for photos next time.

Our BA wagon had a few noticeable scratches on the windscreen from the wiper arm scratching the glass when a blade fell apart. They were not deep, but reasonably visible. I bought a cheap kit from ebay with a few polishing pads and cerium oxide powder and had a go at polishing out the scratches. It worked quite well. I just used a little 1" buffing wheel in a Ryobi cordless drill with a slurry of cerium oxide and went over the main scratches, then used a 2" pad to go over the main scratches as well as a wider area. The main scratches are gone which I am very happy about. Where I covered a wider area, it still needs more work to get rid of the very fine scratches that the wiper blades have left over the whole screen, but there is also a big improvement there as well. It is a slow process, but the results are good for removing fine scratches After 21 years there are also quite a few tiny little chips that are deeper, and I think they would not be removed without polishing all the glass down to the lowest point of the chips. I think they will be staying unless I try the very fine wet and dry sanding discs that came with the kit, but I do not like the idea of causing further scratches. If you like working on your car and there are scratches on your windscreen, I would recommend trying this yourself.

Take a look under the seat while you rock it, to see what is moving. If that does not work, get someone to sit in the seat a move it, while you take a look at what is moving. Then you have an idea where the play is and what needs to be done. Taking the seats out is only 4 bolts and a few electrical plugs. Not sure about FG, but on BA some seat bases cracked and needed to be welded to fix (I had this done on mine a fair while ago).