purxr6t

Wow that seems like less loss than a lot of manuals were getting. Has Anyone actually had the same motor on the Engine Dyno, Then measured at the hubs or wheels and compared the difference? Am sure someone on here would have.... Cheers for the reply. The more data the better.

Anyone had their engine dyno'd and had it roller dyno'd and compared the difference? Just wondering what 1000rwhp would be at the crank? It's running a built ZF. Surely someone has done both. Cheers.

Plenty of people have been running 20W-50 or whatever they want in 6cyl falcons for many decades, They are not an F1 engine or anything. As for the pressure flow thing you mentioned, On 4 stroke dirt bikes, Due to them being ball bearings flow can be more important than pressure. However on a Car engine with the bearings just being shells, And the oil the only thing "cushioning" the bearings and the crank etc. Stopping the two from making contact, I would say pressure is very much important. People were dropping down to 5psi at hot idle on track days with thinner oils, Nearly all who have done some track days have gone to a heavier oil. I was also interested in the HTHS number, Where the higher number the better. The HTHS number generally increases with viscosity. I honestly think many oils are getting too thin when hot, Saw some oil tests back in the day where viscosity of some oils, reduced very quickly after only a short time of use. I think the thicker oil is good insurance against those things, And it is also on E85 so their is likely some dilution....

The car has 12 tunes with a haltech plug in ECU, Usually it's cruising around on over 825hp @ wheels on E85. But really for driving in traffic there's not really anywhere to spool it up, So it isn't getting taken to those revs. Every now and then when there's a chance it gets to spool up, But obviously can't really floor it for long while staying within the speed limit.... Probably would use a bit less fuel on 98, which we haven't used since getting the car. It is flex fuel but only the first few tunes suit 98 as well. Interestingly when I rang Penrite the rep seemed to have no idea what they were talking about, And didn't have a clue about the HTHS number, The number they eluded to was so clearly wrong it was not funny. They also reckoned that the 20W-60 would be too thick for a Barra. Obviously that is not correct as many have used it and many have said that anything thinner, Gives too low pressure at idle after a hard time at events etc. It was a bit annoying that Penrite could not give an accurate HTHS number though. Pretty sure the 10 tenths 15W-50 is HTHS 5.28 So the 20W-50 should be even higher. The numbers the Penrite rep stated, were so far out it is not funny....

There's a few kit's around, Some seem pricey for what they are. Have sussed that the derale 25782 sandwich plate should fit after reading what @aaronm has said about the subject. Gotta figure out where to put the cooler due to surge tank etc. There must be more kit's out there that what I have seen so far....

Engine is happy with the Penrite 10 tenths 20W-60 Oil. Hot oil pressure is much higher as in over 10 psi higher (now around 35psi @ hot idle), Over the 10W-40 which was dropping to around 20psi or a bit less after being given a hard time. It gets driven hard sometimes but also does long drives in traffic jams many arvo's too. Much happier with the higher hot idle idle pressures, Seems safer for making the 700rwkw engine last !!!! Oil cooler seems like the next thing to do. Anyone monitor their oil temps? And know where the temps normally sit after some hard driving or long time in traffic, etc.? Anyone done a comparison before and after an oil cooler installation, On temps and pressure? Cheers.

Anyone using Penrite 10 Tenths 20W-60 ? Just want to know what people think of it and If they noticed higher oil pressure at idle after giving it a hard time. Anyone know the HTHS number? We will be giving this oil a try as do not like having oil pressure go under 20psi at idle. And many have said that lower viscosity oils have dropped oil pressure significantly to 5 psi or so, At idle after driving the vehicle hard at various events, For a while. That does not sound good. We are thinking of chucking an engine oil cooler on there too, To keep the temps and pressures even more under control at such events. Cheers.

Ok so we recently purchased a 700+RwKw G6E Turbo, And want to prep it for track days etc, While keeping the Oil temps, and Therefore oil pressures at idle when hot all within range. Oil temps over 150deg are not good for any oil, And may be the reason many are experiencing low oil pressures at idle, After giving their vehicles a hard time at event like powercruise, And the like, with many complaining of low oil pressures as low a 5psi after a run. Anyhow my thoughts are keeping everything in range like oil temps etc., Is sensible, after all we are making far more power than what these vehicles came out with. After all f6's even had an oil cooler with only 310 KW at the engine. Most on here are making far more than that. So anyone got some good recommendations for Oil Coolers? And part numbers of the sandwich plates etc? What's everyone else using? Cheers.

No worries, It it possible for the Idle speed to just be turned up 100rpm or so, And hopefully that provides a bit more vacuum? Anyhow thanks for everyones responses. Might end up going the vacuum pump eventually. Seems reasonable as it is from a factory vehicle, So should be reliable and long lasting enough.

All good, It sounds like it could work as well. Looking forward to seeing if it does. Cheers.

That sounds like it could work. Seeing as it used on a factory vehicle it seems easy enough. One would think it would have an inbuilt system to turn off once a set vacuum is reached, If not it seems easy enough to make something that will work. The more factory stuff the better though. Yes would use some one way valves etc, So that whichever is producing the most vac. works, And the vac pump isn't sucking from the manifold, Etc. How did adding more advance at idle go @Puffwagon? Did it make more vacuum? Thanks for all the replies, They were very helpful. Cheers.

That sounds like it could work. As for the pressing the pedal harder thing several people drive the car, Females included. I myself have also driven with a blown booster too and just pressed harder. In heavy traffic when people are jumping in front / cutting others off at the last second, It would be best to have it functioning more normally as It takes longer to stop than it would with better brake vacuum. It already has 6 piston brake callipers etc.

Yeah the brake pedal is like a rock in bad traffic which is annoying, Pretty much have one hit of the brakes then there's no more vacuum. Good that the vacuum canister worked, Have also seen the electric vacuum pumps for sale as well for around $475 or something. Heard some Mondeos have a factory electric vacuum pump, Seems like it might be OK too, Would try to plumb it in so it could only add vacuum, And work as normal if the pump failed....

Yeah that is one of the shops the previous owner took it to. Also some of the other well known names like Real Dyno etc....

No worries, that sounds like a good Idea, Will try to get a tactrix cable ASAP. Cheers.