Leaderboard

Yes yes it is a happy Sunday keifffyyyyy

Ima just leave this here ….. Pretty excited 😍

Alrighty all, here's the update: So, I finally got around to fixing the engine. As I mentioned earlier, I slapped a new head on, all the bells and bigger whistles put into it, blah, blah, blah. Now, on Sunday just been (9th of Jan 2022), I pulled the rocker cover off to see if I had somehow placed the cams in the wrong way, I didn't, next thing I checked was the timing, I rotated the engine over 34 times to get it bang on. On inspection of the crank sprocket, the mark on the chain was one tooth out, so it had skipped. The second thing I noticed was the intake cam was in the correct position at 12 o'clock and the exhaust cam was at the 11 o'clock position. So this explains everything, fixed it and guess what, the car runs like it did prior to the inept mechanic who put three valves springs upside down ( I text him once a month asking, "How?" HAHA). So, the timing retarding issue has finally been fixed and sounds like the former glory. Next problem, when the thermo fans come on the car would either switch off or run real rough not like in the lame ghost cam way - worse. The Haltec was throwing all kinds of codes mainly cruise control codes. Couldn't work out why. All by accident, I placed my hand on my Haltec and f**k me, I could cook bacon and eggs on it. Found the setting on the laptop and it was telling me the Haltec was at 80 degrees. Got an air blower straight onto it and it cooled down rather quickly. After four hours of trying to get the car stated it, just wouldn't. Continued drinking and had a good night. The next day on the phone to Haltec and well, the legends they are, are the legends the are. Fixed everything via remote login. The Haltec is being sent back, they're do their magic and once I get the Haltec back then bammmmm straight onto the dyno for a tune. Once again, thank you for everyones input over the time/ length of this post. I took all comments in and it reassured me, everything I was doing was correct and believe it or not, it pointed me in the right direction when I took your comment on board. A long and costly process, but never-the-less, great outcome. Thought I would update and hope this post and comment/s helps those that are ever chasing a similar issue/ problem.

The master suite has also had a bit of a spruce since I posted last... finally the curtains and shutters arrived and some new styling elements. All that’s left is a small end table next to the mirror (on order) and some bedside table styling elements and the master is basically done 🥰 PS: contemplating wall paper behind the bed also 😬

Bought myself a fiancé over the Christmas holiday. Goes alright, not very good at yet cooking though.

Had long time customer Darryll back in after the car had a very low use over the past 2 years and he wanted to take it from what it was ( stage 4 package ) to the next stage ( stage 5 ) but keep it on 98 fuel vs typically stage 5 being inclusion of E85. Nothing wrong with fitting the hardware and having it ready to go when the bug bites harder and E85 is requested lol. So in went the following Plazmaman Pierberg UCST Plazmaman twin feed fuel rail Plazmaman HD wiring kit Turbosmart FPR1200 Turbosmart Fitting kit Turbosmart Glass gauge Aeroflow 90* AN fittings Actuator tweak up Major service Diff service Full retune on 98 fuel Everything went great right up until when I started to turn the boost in harder and faster the new sub 4000km NPC single plate clutch started to slip and close datalogging threw up the red flag earlier than I was hoping. Obviously the stage 2 NPC single plate clutch is only rated too 410rwkw ( back when this was fitted the latest one is rated to 430rwkw iirc ) so I had to pull out a bit down low as she was still going fine for full boost up top ! Finished up at 443rwkw @ 19.1 psi peak boost on 98 fuel, if that clutch held up I’m very confident I would of been around the 460’s with a nice hard n fast ramp in ! Also I gave Darryll what he wanted with a bit of PoP & Crackle PoPcOrN Decel tune… Commonly I don’t do these things but being a manual on 98 I couldn’t say no for him hahaha

Hey mate, sorry been pretty busy but I’m here now so I’ll address a few areas to help you First up as I’ve told you before without any negativity but DynaPack Dyno’s read exceptionally high, always have, always will due to their retarder systems. That’s fine as long as you start on one and measure each gain throughout your journey on the same one to see the real number difference which is correct… it’s just the outright numbers never align anywhere close to other brand Dyno’s which can be pretty close to each other! Next up so you can see where I was going on the below tunes I’ll explain this for anyone who doesn’t know …. A factory FG ZF tailshaft can and definitely will snap even on the Dyno when torque is generated at a point past what the shaft can take… this figure is not hard and fast but I know it’s capable of 8psi steady state but not typically more than 10psi ( use stalling up at the lights as the example here ) Next is the factory FG ZF flexplate has a weakness attributed to the factory x6 bolts that secure it to the crank shaft to “walk” loose with torsional rigidity loss at around 380rwkw or 18psi… the harder and faster ( or more aggressive ) the tune is the quicker this will happen and you’ll see why I stop where I stop for these reasons So your 380 ish RWKW @ 14psi is probably closer to 340rwkw honestly. Here is a FG F6 sedan I’ve tuned with the factory GT3582 onboard and typical mods that you have but 18psi up it’s arse on 98 fuel. This vehicle didn’t have an aftermarket market tailshaft or Flex plate so this was as hard and fast as I felt comfortable ramping in the boost. Replace the tailshaft and if I pumped in another 1-1.5psi it would of clipped 400+rwkw on 98 which is about all the GT3582 has as an efficiency peak flow map (19-19.5psi ) and as you can see from the below this tune came out beautifully, all the right curves in the right places Now here are two FG Turbo ZF sedans with Genuine Garrett GTX G2 3576’s on board T3/5bolt/1.06 housings with Genuine Garrett 0.60 comp covers This one was stock Tail shaft / stock Flex plate second one had Carbon fibre tailshaft / stock Flex plate Both have typical mods as you, both on 98 fuel All run in 4th gear etc etc This one stock shaft/flex plate What you can see is if the tailshaft is addressed you can put in a bit more sooner, if you have a Flexplate upgrade ontop I could of pegged a nice 20psi for instance and been into the 400rwkw zone without a doubt on 98 fuel. My honesty thoughts from tuning a large variety of FG’s with different turbos is the fact that yes the GTX of any series (76/82) is vastly superior to the GT The GTX G2 76 I would class the ultimate street turbo matched up to a ZF vehicle for response…. But… up around 400rwkw with the rate of aggressiveness the GTX G2 3576 can deliver on full send ramp in boost will and does destroy the driveline in a faster more obvious manner than say the GT series or GTX G2 3582 can. Some food for thought here…. Bang in a tailshaft, flex plate, HD half shafts and a GTX G2 3576 vehicle can be electric fast too a point where the input shaft start’s hating life next. This is just something we don’t flog out at this rate with other turbos in this manner unless being intentionally abused, the 76 just has more sooner which makes for a fun turbo. I’ve seen many workshops pump out over 400rwkw on the G2 76 and upwards of 450rwkw on E85 !! Assuming you have a full built driveline this turbo can walk in 10 second 1/4 mile passes as we did back with the Gen 1 GTX3576’s Out of the GTX G2 3576 & 82 I suggest customers go for the 82 if they’re more budget minded as we can make factory driveline parts last longer than 76 punters as the 76 is a savage beast on 100% ! And typically can deliver higher numbers on the 82 which 90% of punters want ( big Dyno sheet ) TLDR; GTX G2 3576 - Aggressive tyre fryer GTX G2 3582 - Big numbers on the Dyno Cheers

My auto electrician worked out that zf gear selector was in slightly the wrong place, dash was saying it was in P for park, but trans wasn't. When we put trans in R the engine started. We adjusted the trans selector arm and she's all good now, yaaa. Battery was too flat as well so charging that up too, jump pack didn't have the juice either, thanks @JETURBO and @Puffwagon.

Okay so finally some finishing touches are starting to wrap up on the house!! Yay!! One of the key things was the entrance foyer area. J@ bought me this art piece I fell in love with for my 30th and we finally hung it today. It’s an indigenous piece by Jeannie Mills Pwerle and it’s STUNNING IMO. Together with some lighting, a hall table, mirror and some styling... it’s all come together 🥰 Budget wise it was the least friendly coming in just shy of $10k... but well worth it IMO 🥰

Just wanted to reach out to all our members, moderators, donating members, and all those who continue to support the site, and keep us still around. For someone who has gone through immense tragedy the last few years, losing both my stepson (who was 15), my mum (to brain cancer) and then most recently my beloved dog Dakota of 13yrs. It should remind us all of how precious life is, how quickly it can be taken away from you, and how times like Christmas should be times spend creating memories with loved ones to last a life time. May you all create moments, and memories, that you can look back on with a smile. Thank you all for your support through the year, and as mentioned for keeping the site going. If you would like to make a donation to the site, this will go towards paying for its monthly hosting & fees, as every dollar is appreciated. A link to the donating page is here - https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/clients/donations/ I wish you all happiness, health, love and prosperity for 2022. All the best

Ughhhh yeah 😂

Hey Alex Okay so oil options are like arseholezzz everyone’s got one ☝️ But this is an area I get to see a large exposure to in use/drain as I would do approximately 6-8 Turbo falcon services a month on average and for this reason I lean back on Ford and their engineering processes. First and foremost Ford will and do use fully synthetic oil on their platforms ( Coyote 5.0 S/C - EcoTech 2.5ltr - 2.0 Focus platform ) just to name a few and the price of those spec oils is expensive so do not think of it requires it that they won’t use it That said the 15/40 weight of semisynthetic oil was selected for the Barra Turbo, not from a cost point of view as ford rarely care about end user service costs lol 😂 The engineering behind it’s selection is greater than anything any of us could afford to counter prove ! So yeh with all my packages upto stage 5 (470/530rwkw ) I use Nulon semi 15/40 for summer and 10/40 for winter service schedules My stage 6+ packages use ULX110 ….. snd yep arguably the best bled oil for any high to extreme HP engine and guess what…. It’s a semi We used ULX110 in Alex’s big built engine to generate a steady pressure for over 1000rwhp Fully synthetic oil definitely has a place, no arguments there but if you delve into some very smart engine building workshops there’s a very aligned consensus on Fully synthetic oil on a “Full” Roller engine which the Barra is…. Right or wrong I use this method and it’s definitely proven itself over the years. Fully synthetic service can cost your average joe more than a semi service even when completing them in your driveway by yourself… Fill it up with say Royal Purple oil, fancy K&N filter and you’re down ~$250 Start to get close to 5,000kms of use and you’re not wrong to think… Gee that went fast I’ll just push it out to 10,000kms …. 10,000kms comes up, you go daymmm I’ll do it next week…. Next thing you know you’ve put 12,000kms to 15,000kms on one lot of oil Whereas you fill her up on semi in the driveway for a grand total of say $100, bang out 5,000kms and go yeh I’ll do it next week as it was only $100 of bits and a hour of my time …. So I see getting oil of a good quality in and out more regularly outweighs a more expensive oil in for longer despite the above justification and yes I’ve seen it literally unfold in that exact manner just my 2C … Correct Ross performance do a Std and a Gold unit, IIRC the Gold only comes in underdriven configuration whereas I use std OD size for daily drivers as underdrives play havoc with the electrical smart charge on the falcon ( BF2 onwards ) the difference is about $80 from STD to Gold Yes the AMG is punching well for N/A !

What's going on Keith? I've been super quiet on here lately. Been flat out designing and getting clearances for a pergola and deck project for the last couple of months. Certifier checks the pergola post holes tomorrow and then I'm good to start building, subject to the remaining timber being available. I'll update in the new build and reno thread as I go. Timelapsing it on the GoPro too.

Weekend has been pretty damn productive as far as the fixing goes! Dad came round to help me drill and tap the holes in the head to get ready for the helicoils. We had a set ready to go but they weren't very long and would only take up just under half of the threads of the manifold stud. Decided to just drill and tap the head and get some longer helicoils during the week to install. Longer helicoil means more meat for the stud to grab and that doesn't like a bad thing at all!! In total, 4 needed to be repaired, heres some pics of the final result on the holes. Nothing fancy. Went ahead and installed the studs in the other holes after cleaning them out. Amazing how much easier it was to install the studs when you have such good access to the holes lol Got a load of swarf I'll need to clean up too and will hit some of the easy to reach areas with degreaser while I'm there. One issue I have come across is that I can't fit the manifold back on without removing the power steering pump because there isn't enough clearance, something I knew was gonna happen after struggling to remove the manifold from the engine in the first place! Got the belt off the front and noticed quite a few cracks in it so I'll be replacing that with a fresh one. Removing the power steering pump seems like an easy job so not too worried about that. I'm thinking now though while I'm here and a lot of the coolant has already been drained I might replace the water pump too... Decisions decisions 😂 Drilling and tapping the head was the most scary and hardest task in the job so far, so I'm really glad it went so well! Now I just need to slowly start putting the rig back together and get it retuned with the bigger snail 🐌🐌 I'm hoping I can have the car done by mid-end of March. This gives me some time to save for the 3582 core I want. Also, whats everyones thoughts on this rusty block situation I have going on here? I feel like its worse than a typical motor 😂

Thanks @biddie_fiddler 🥰 The one thing I’ve learnt through the process is to not care what’s on trend etc and just fill your home with awesome stuff that makes you happy. I kept seeing things like “Grey is out” and I was second guessing my choices so bad, but then I realised we live here and as long as we like it then that’s all that matters 🥰 Nice one Scotty!!! That’s goals!!!

@Mrs Jeturbo & @JETURBO your house is actual goals 🤣🤣 @Panda Eyes congrats on the purchase! Looks like an awesome area and a very healthy size bit of land you got yourself! Not familiar with the area but looks really nice!

After building our home 11 years ago (I took a year off and we built it ourselves) it's time for a change- Just bought this and will do it again. In the designing stage now.

To be more clear, we sure as sh*t won't be spending that kinda money on our wedding lol. We both think it is a massive waste of money 🤣 We're not getting married this year that's for sure, and we haven't planned it for 2023 either. We have way more important things like her visa to pay for first. We're happy where are now and there is no rush to get married just yet

Fitted up some brembo 4 piston fronts and ba xr8 18s.. When I read the xr8 wheels will fit over the brembos, I decided they were the best rim to keep with the sleeper theme as they are not very 'look at me' fancy or anything. The goal was to get them on and bled then see how it feels. Will need new pads at a minimum but the current ones have enough life in them to drive the car for a few months while I research which pad I'm going to go with. Any recommendations for a street pads that can handle the odd windy road would be good. Will probably end up rebuilding the calipers and then painting them black so they just blend in and don't look too visible. Trying to sell a few bikes atm which should cover an upgraded zf. I really want to drag race the car this year with some confidence.

Yep indeed it was a decent outlay but it’s now or never really so on the train we went ! Anything old that’s had some kind of restoration or kept in good shape is just fetching silly money these day’s and unfortunately the covid bubble doesn’t really apply to these so much as they’re always just going upwards. That said I can’t wait to take that iconic picture that the XY GT was famous for, mind you I won’t be doing that speed haha

Hey mate Yep that’s about how they fit up and looks pretty good from here. B series do suffer from electrolysis no question and the best way to see a reduction is by super good clean earthing system. Upgrade the main Negative to chassis with a pre terminated 4GA “minimum” cable and same for the engine block. Feel free to double up in these areas and obviously clean paint/grime free purchase on the connection points, spring star washers and nut & bolt system. Remember the engine can use earth points in various areas ( sump/block/rockercover/water pump ancillary bracket ) The factory stuff really wasn’t great new so after 14-16 years she’s well degraded. At the alternator make sure she’s clean bolted to the block via it’s typical bracket with no loose connections too. secondary use a coolant “inhibitor” additive as part of a new complete fill This should bring a substantial drop in those figures.

High boost for the win 🏆 ….. booooost loading …….. to be continued 😂😂😂😂

whs^^^ he’s even a nice guy at home now. Pretty sure I heard he’s gonna let me buy another STI 😂

@JETURBO Thanks for the updates and detailed responses. I'm sure there's a few lurking in the forums like myself that do not have a lot to offer content wise, but do pay attention.

You might appreciate the oil conversion isn’t 100% directly related to the cost association if you’ve ever bought ULX before with it’s typical costs @EGO747 the list is long, P.M me if you’re really interested mate but it’s basically everything in the best option Keith something that very few people understand is modifying cars in detail and when you need to sometimes educate blokes who just want to go “fast” or get a 500rwkw car the easiest way to communicate is a “Staged” package conversation. Something you might appreciate if you think about it is the fact you WILL need parts 1-7 to complete say the 400rwkw hurdle, then add on parts 8-10 for instance to get to 500rwkw. It keeps it for 1 simple, for 2 almost guaranteed to deliver that then package result as the vehicle will have those parts fitted which WILL work without pushing sheet up hill When you spend a large amount of your time conversing with blokes who some know a fair bit right down to some punters literally knowing zero it get’s time consuming to a point where a “Package” is easier to understand, work out costs and see how to climb up the staged packages ladder to a goal most need to do in exactly that…. stages Very few just go everything, all out the first time so this is important for clarity and not something workshops just do for whatever reason you think a staged goal/package/cost implies …. Which I’d love to know why that stages annoys you ???

Sorry Gaz Feeling festive lol 😂 Look my oil opinion won’t suit everyone and that’s fine and I het plenty of customer vehicles in that also run fully synthetic oils in them without issues so it’s just that, my opinion guys Hopefully delivering some good information on here

You've changed jet. Were the ones talking in riddles and pointing people to information. Now you spilling the straight facts. Not cool

What turned into fixing exhaust manifold threads has escalated rather quickly... 🤣🤣 Should have seen this coming tbh

that looks nice mate a bit of land to spread out, your almost in VIC. lol

SCOTTY!!! MT GAMBIER!!! Ya moving there or is this another place? Nice one!!! Super excited to see the design!

FG workshop manuals https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1g7klUdziS-rZpJXNI4yj8lQ5Vb30nUHL?usp=sharing Have them stored in my google drive and trying to find a place to put the link for others. Hope this helps some people out there!

You don't actually need a wiring diagram to install a head-unit if you know what you're doing As you intercept the wires to the speakers rather than stuffing about with the wiring behind the ICC.

@gaz097 it appears I've managed to fix it... not sure what caused it to get a bit weird, but it's sorted.

that should be me and fluff

If you disconnect the solenoid you'll likely boost to the moon and be in a real-life engine-explosion zone... you don't want to do that. If you re-route the hose that goes from the front of the turbocharger to the solenoid to go to the wastegate actuator instead, then you get minimum spool and a maximum boost level of the rating of the wastegate, which is an adequate temporary workaround to boost problems.

Congratulations Alex ! Onwards and upwards with her cooking haha

you’re correct with above trace out and hence it’s lacking, fine multi strand high cross sectional area pre terminated cable is best in all cases for cost and finish. I’ve previously used the inhibitor as an add in despite it being not recommended under typical ratio mixes ( commonly 50ml to 1ltr of de min ) I’ve added 10ml to around 1ltr coolant 33% ratio Glycol mix ( off the shelf premixed 6year coolants ) Typically a B series falcon will take about 8ltrs of coolant on a flush and about 12ltrs on a first fill empty engine/system I will assume you potentially used about 10ltrs of coolant to fill your new system / radiator? If so remove aprox 800ml to 1ltr and add in inhibitor of around this capacity to your coolant and it will help protect the aluminium cores on that PWR beauty If in doubt under mix vs over mix as even in small dose’s inhibitor works well

CONGRATS!!!!

No just the same as any performance pad. They last a long time as well.

congrats azza and fluff

Replica, Genuine has just surpassed $1,000,000 as a regular base price point now which is a bit too much lol. Can’t wait to pick it up ! Solid bucket list vehicle for me and @Mrs Jeturbo as XY GT’s have always been that one bad ass bus. I mean the engine sticks through the bonnet and that’s cool as sheet

haha... being realistic, though, they won't get any high quality imagery back until approx the 6 month mark... and there's a lot of stuff to "go right" between now and then. morning all, happy Monday

First image back Someone forgot to take off the lens cap /s

She's too scared to. Last time she took a pic of her lappy we all told her she should have done a screen shot

Go the L19's if you want to rev it.

ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts or ARP L19 7/16 rod bolts Worth the upgrade to the beefier ones or not bother with it. Gonna replace them either way and it's only a couple hundred more dollarydoos for the better ones. Car is gonna be revved to fark but $200 saved is 10 goonbags on the cupboard...or so the saying goes.

Down the beach

A custom high mount has more power potential but a stock manifold with J pipe is fine to 500rwkw.

Hi Guys and Gals, Thought I'd put up my quick story. *Edit in real life we're talking 6 months diagnosing* I had an intermittent misfire. Cylinder 3. It was getting worse and worse and less intermittent. Error codes etc. Moved to other cylinders. Cylinder 5, then various ones, then all of them. Mechanic threw plugs, plug gapping, new coils, new wiring at it. Nothing. Then I asked him to replace Fuel filter, it was terribly clogged. All misfires disappeared, no new codes. Unbelievable. Moral of the story, a misfire could be for about 647,000 different reasons, luck of the draw, I was lucky I suppose.

If I install an aftermarket head unit (single din in the tissue box) will I lose the reverse sensor beeps? I do love those beeps..