Leaderboard

If this thread single handily doesn’t show how much of a immature person Arronm is nothing would. Why even bring your useless B/S into general threads regarding general questions Arron ? Seriously no one gives two Chits and no one thinks your “so cool” Your an old man, fruck off and tell all your mates at the Pub how cool you are 😐 Since you’ve always had a crack at nearly every single persons mods/tune/Dyno sheet let’s have a look at your “Magical” witchcraft sheet.... Shall we ? Barely makes 2 psi against the roller - That’s actually really appalling for a GT3582 Takes up until 5000rpm till it makes 15psi ... That’s terribly laggy Power comes over and can’t even pull until redline... Yep what a winner ( performance head that can’t flow past 6000rpm, yeh killer sign me up for one ) Boost can’t even be commanded and held flat... Basic tuning/set up of turbocharger specifics ... ( can’t wait for the excuse on this one ) Power generation down low is pretty average and nothing is showing exemplary efficiency here as depicted by the Torque displacement What you actually have is a “Dyno queen” tune as I doubt a “Fully Built Nizpro” F6 is missing some vital hardware that your tuner is allowing for and can’t ramp it in hard and fast 🤣 Looking forward to you replying to each above statements with facts, know you’ll just sprout off about some totally unrelated issues but you ... Go Girl ! To the bloke who started this thread, Sprints are a good package, I’ve got 414 of 500 and Some might say I know what I’m doing in regards to modifying and tuning Turbo falcons ... Yes the magical 400rwkw zone typically falls just short on the factory turbo GT3582 on 98 fuel so unless it’s tuned Really lazy like old mate above’s graph or on E85 it probably wont do it with full list of mods. Common safe ground is about 18 psi & 360-380rwkw with the GT3582 on the FG/FGX platform A GTX3582 G2 is what you will want to keep as close to characteristics of the factory turbo but have enough support to see the 400rwkw target. This is a well walked path and yes other turbos are on the market that can do it but it’s a more expensive option, characteristics change, manifolds might need to be purchased and the list can go on Typically a punter will want to get to a target with the least amount of outlay and least amount of stuffing around but yes experiment and left of centre options can generate results too... many ways to skin a cat especially if you’re a king killer big wheeler cat peeler Cheers

Hi All I Just thought I would post up my recent experience with Aaron from JD tuning in Adelaide. I don't often post in forums, but I feel strongly enough about my experience with JD tuning that I am happy to do so. I have been looking for a FG Mk 2 Ute for about 6 months, After a recent inter-company transfer where I transitioned from a FIFO role to a DIDO role my accountant instructed me to "buy a Ute". I have been into fords for a long time and had read allot of stuff about the legendary "Barra" engine that I thought I might as well buy a Ford FG XR6T Ute. I found a very low km FG Mk 2 XR6T for a decent price, then started looking around for someone to do the mods to it to prevent the commons faults in these vehicles from creating a reliability issue for me. I drive long distances on a regular basis so I need something reliable and comfortable with relatively good fuel economy (compared to a 2000 HZJ105R Land cruiser). I looked around online at a few different workshops and what they had to offer, then found this forum and started reading. I am no stranger to the performance game, am a qualified mechanic (heavy diesel) but no very little about modern engines especially petrol ones. I have a few muscle cars and have always been into the V8 carbie old school scene. Buying a late model falcon is a first for me... I have always driven older cars that I felt comfortable working on myself. Through an old mate, I had heard of Aaron and some of the things he used to do in the early days, but had no idea that he was still into the turbo falcon scene or whatever you call it. I ended up working out that JETURBO was the same guy and JD tuning Adelaide is the name he operates under, I contacted him on this forum via message and asked what he could do for me with the new Ute. Again... I am not chasing big HP as some of you on this site are. I am looking for reliability, improved drive ability and improved fuel economy. I have to drive this thing about 800 kms a week so a fire breathing monster that makes 700 HP probably won’t suit my application. Aaron gave me a list of "must do" mods and provided a comprehensive "package" to suit what I wanted. He also went into detail about what he was doing and why, all of which I understood. I decided to go with the package Aaron suggested, I will be honest and say I was a little apprehensive at first. I have been burnt a couple times recently and am naturally cynical/suspicious of people I don't know or who haven't been recommended by someone I trust. I am glad I did. Not only did Aaron Deliver everything he promised he absolutely exceeded my expectations of what kind of result I was going to get. Ute is smoother, has more torque, seems to deliver its power in a more linear way, not so punchy and uncontrolled. On the way home from picking up the Ute I turned off traction control and fed it a bit of right foot. I’ll be honest, I sh*t myself and turned traction control back on deciding it better to drive within my limitations and actually make it home. As for reliability and fuel economy, I have to start piling on the kms to be able to give an honest response, I will post up some data once I have some. I have inspected all of Aaron's work and have found it to be of a very high standard. After building my XY Fairmont I understand what it takes to do a quality job and just how much work goes in to it all. So the result was fantastic and I am really impressed with the standard of work provided by JD tuning I am equally impressed with the service and communication Aaron provided while he was doing the job. He sent constant photos and updates on job progress, kept me in the loop with every development in a timely manner. I asked him to install seat covers and a LED light upgrade package I supplied. Nothing was too hard for him and he happily fitted these items for me and expected nothing for it. I actually felt like I was taking advantage and offered to pay for the extra jobs a couple of times, all of which he refused. In my opinion Aaron is a true gentlemen, has a high standard, is honest and shows a high level of integrity in all of the dealings I have had with him so far. I could not recommend him more if you are looking for some one knowledgeable with these turbo falcons to do some work for you. I am a complete newbie to this scene and Aaron certainly looked after my best interests and vehicle as it was his own. Sorry if I have come across a bit long winded but for the sake of accuracy and an honest review of my experience I thought it best to provide some background.

Had Wayne back in but this time was a necessity vs choice as his factory turbo had the old “Death rumble” so it was on with making the choice of what to do next... Wayne has a reasonably well set up FG turbo sedan but despite it being his daily he does quite a few Track days especially since “The Bend” Motorsport park opened up in SA ... so with that in mind turbo selection needed to be close to what he was familiar with and going big power actually is never on his want list as most of us can appreciate more power doesn’t always equate to faster at the track. Sometimes more power will just highlight an area where the car might struggle more ( Brakes/trans/cooling etc etc ) and with Wayne’s objectives being consistent and having fun he didn’t want to go crazy... This leads to a GTX G2 3576 with one of my spec 1.06 T3, 5 bolt rear housings, with a Garrett 7 psi actuator and Adjustable rod was paired up Anyway above will Help explain why he didn’t want a Full 4* intake as he has a very nicely built Jonny Tig full Alloy 3* Race intake and buying again even in my mind wasn’t really a necessity when I knew I could make it work well enough. This is the same reason behind the standard tail shaft for Circuit work they are no worries within reason, same for the fuel system.. Originally built for his entry level power ( 294rwkw ) with just a walbro 255 the main objective was it had to be quiet and we all know smaller in tank pumps are exactly that ! One item that was a choice was to swop His old Pacemaker twin 2.5* cat back mated to a Venom “bolt in” SS cat pipe with stock Dump for a Full Venom 4* Dump/cat twin 2.5* cat back in MS. The pacemaker was actually quite “Droney” and doesn’t flow amazingly with small but straight through style mufflers whereas the Venom does not Drone and we all know can flow 550rwkw on E85 despite being a twin 2.5* style system !!! So some limitations were in place but that’s nothing too silly to work in with. That said a Walbro 255 in a best case has around 400-420rwkw of potential on 98 fuel at around lambda 0.82 / 17 psi of boost. This walbro was installed on round one mods back in 2016 and with 70,000kms on the clock ( now 135,000kms ) so not new. A factory tail shaft is a variable that’s all kinds of “rough” so being mindful of stress put on the shaft isn’t always initial shock/load but the rate of ramp it’s exposed to throughout a RPM sweep. This turbo imho is at about 70% capacity for this tune and with a 11.8 psi Actuator and commanding full tilt on the boost target I would comfortably say it could be at 20 psi by 3000rpm. I believe this vehicle has 410-420RWKW on 98 fuel with addressed issues on 20 psi, I believe this turbo could knock out 450rwkw easy with E85 and 22 -24psi Now that’s out of the way it explains why I’ve set this vehicle up the way it was and why I’ve tuned it to suit, Not all vehicles can have a “Hero” Tune FG TURBO 2009 A6 ID1000’s Walbro 255 Jonny Tig 1800hp intercooler kit Jonny Tig 3* Race intake & Airbox Plazmaman new spec Valve spring installation Venom 4* Dump/Cat Twin 2.5* cat back MS New 02 sensor Boot relocated battery GTX G2 3576 Garrett 7 psi actuator New drive belt, Idler, tensioner pulleys New boot lock actuator Full service 98 Fuel 384.9 RWKW @ 17.5 psi 12.0 AFR

Brakes upgraded to Brembo 6 piston calipers with 355mm rotors for the front and Brembo 4 piston calipers with 330mm rotors. Suspension upgraded to Shockworks coilovers to the front and Shockworks rear shocks and springs. Front struts were custom made to suit the SZ RWD Territory. Their off the shelf kit suited the AWD, but not the RWD model. After some discussion with Brett a custom kit was made.

There’s actually a few things on this vehicle that needs improving ( currently has a 3* intake so had to use a 4-3 reducer onto the turbo ) The walbro 255 is about 4 years & 60,000kms old so didn’t have enough headroom up top today but .... but .... with a full 4* intake, Walbro 400 pump I have all the confidence I could of settled on 20 psi and made around 410-420rwkw on 98 without crazy pushing it With a tailshaft I could of ramped it in at least 400-500rpm quicker too safely And yes I got RPM on the Dyno sheet hahahaha

Yeh I’ll do a post later but finished up at 385rwkw @ a low 17.5 psi but had to bring it in a fair bit slower than it could do as the stock tail shaft is hanging in there, also had to fade boost away uptop as the fuel system wasn’t happy past 395 rwkw which was easily blowing past ! All in all a G2 76 will piss in 450rwkw on E85 @ 22 - 24 psi with supporting hardware on this car.... Just gotta talk the customer into it now haha

Ya'd think I'd make the bed and put my washing away etc but eh, here we are. I bought this 1981 Maton CW80D/6 today. It's in very good condition with one owner from new.

Benefits of the Work From Home days.... slow cooked pasta sauce.... Gnocchi Ragu

Good bit of kit - fitted mine up on the weekend

Been a busy camper Lately and had old mate Adam @Box stock T. back in after not long ago doing the rear end rebuild of diff bushes and cradle “Birthday” but this time was again for another failure of the Half shaft variety lol Drivers side inner CV chit the tin when Adam was obviously enjoying having a more complete solid rear end and sure enough the weak link passes down the line and sure enough “Boom” time. Out with the old and in with a new set of HD shafts to suit a more energetic clutch leg Next up Had Simon @Porro track me down from an old mate who has recommended Simon give me a call to see if I could help him out with a FG mk2 Turbo ZF ute that he was looking to secure as a new daily driver for the long haul out to the Mid north for his job. Requirements were majorly along the lines of setting the ute up for reliability and having a clean bill of health, That said a full custom tune was going to be required and nothing wrong with a few tasteful mods to lift the torque and power production of the car at the same time. This build was definitely great fun as Simon went with my recommendations but also has a very good idea on “what’s what” as he’s no stranger to the performance scene in Adelaide It was a Great time to use some new Tuning software that I had been playing with on my own car and delivered as expected results too. Big shout out to @rollex for having the JD TUNING ADELAIDE stable annoy him from here on in as I’m enjoying using his product for the Turbo falcon. Anyways on with the Ute.... FG Mk2 Turbo Major Turbo specific service Major cooling system service Diff service Plazmaman Street Airbox Plazmaman ITMD KPM Streetfighter 1000cc Injectors Euro4 Cat de ring JD TUNING ADELAIDE ZF Transmission cooler kit, heat exchanger delete, Major flush, new gaskets, filters. JD TUNING ADELAIDE full Custom Dyno Tune using PCMtech Software Trico Blade wiper upgrade Superior Vision Australia LED Headlight upgrade, Hi - Low - Parker - Fog - Numberplate - Reverse lights Sperling seat covers Knocked out a stout 289.3rwkw @ 12.5 psi and I was extremely happy with the results considering it is largely stock standard in the realm of things

Brembo rears with Shockworks springs/shocks.

I've got the gen1 gtx3576r, 390rwkW on 98, 435rwkW on e85. Great for a street car, have gone 11.0 at drags (a better pilot may crack a 10). Gen2 would definitely be worth a look.

So yerp as mentioned yesterday, I broke the stock motor and rebuilt it with stronger internals and a few other bits and pieces to help it go better. While it was fairly stock it was running 18psi, gen2 gtx3582r and e85. It misfired a couple of times at high rpm and sent the bore, piston and rod through the exhaust. I sourced a na territory engine for $350 from the wreckers and pulled it down for inspection. Although it had 145xxxkm on it, the bearings were shagged and the head needed welding. After getting the run around for 3 months from a machine shop I picked up my half done job, went elsewhere and a few days later started assembly. Bottom end is na territory block/sump (no oil cooler derp), spool drag pro rods and standard size bullet cp pistons w/ upgraded pins, has a girdle/machined caps, boundary oil pump gears and relief/pressure mods w/some sorta backplate, 360 thrust, atomic timing chain/guides and flex plate, ross balancer etc. Recon bf turbo head/valves, crow springs/retainers, stock territory turbo cams/gears, 1mm cometic head gasket. The gtx turbine wheel got chewed up, so have swapped the gen2 back plate, comp wheel and cover over to the stock chra with a ported rear housing/larger flapper, and an 11.8psi garret actuator @JETURBO sent me a few years ago. Plaz territory front mount with plaz intake top half. Bosch 1000's, 460 intank w/ modded pot, turbosmart fpr800. Upgraded cat section w/ stock catback and sorta fg looking "stock" dump, 4 inch intake w/ 9 inch k&n filter w/ battery under the guard. I also chucked in a 4 bar boost sensor and have PCMTec switching from the tmap to the boost sensor at about 18psi so I can tune it properly up to about 30psi. It runs whatever (open loop) boost on the day but mostly 21psi on 98.... Until today, when I chucked in quarter of a tank of E85 and adjusted the boost to run 25psi the whole way to redline. Holy crap it pulls pretty good now.

Tuning a GTX G2 3576 tomorrow on 98 fuel, will be able to have it up to say 70% as it doesn’t have a tail shaft and fuel system is limited to 420rwkw but should be interesting all the same and at least give me a better indication of what these G2’s can do !

Here's a thread to document the stuff I do with my 2006 awd turbo territory.

Thought it might be time to create a build thread on my Territory. It's a 2013 TS Petrol RWD I bought used with only 60,000k's on it. One owner with full service history and well looked after. Anyways, I had a heap of carry over gear from my 2014 G6ET that I didn't part with and had a built FG engine installed in a 2007 TS Territory RWD. Long story short, the SY required a sh*tload of money spent on the body to make it look reasonable which wasn't worth the spend. I parted everything out of it and had it taken to the tip. So, the engine mod list as follows; 2010 FG NA donor engine Spool pistons and conrods Atomic valve springs FG turbo exhaust valves Upgraded oil pump Engine machining etc FG intake and exhaust manifolds GTX3582R Process West FG Stage 2 FMIC Venom 4" dump and 5" cat Custom built stainless exhaust system. Transmission is a stock NA ZF, somehow managing to hold on for now.......

well it already seems like a better tune than your XFT pile of sh*t. nobody wants to hear your bullsh*t anymore

Here is another attempt at a 0 to 100 pull. It's getting kinda hard to film and drive so I'll look into some sort of stand to hold the camera.

I finally got sick of the car sitting there, doing nothing.. Primarily, this is my fault. As I really couldn't be bothered (and don't have time (new project)) to redesign and manufacture new coil bracket mounts. All in order to make plug reading and change out easier. In order to rectify the issue, I have purchased a R35 coil kit from Platinum Racing Products. It should arrive early next week. Given that I modified the Nizpro cover for the cdi coils, I will manufacture a Carbon fiber coil cover to replace the metal unit. I'll also be completing the header tank removal and the installation of the Hammond thermostat housing. This should neaten the bay even more. I'll post some pics when I can..

It's going down, I'm yelling timber You better move, you better dance ..... *apologies for the Bad song reference* On a totally related note.... I feel poor 🤣

Gheee I thought I was keen haha you seem more keen than me haha. I’m pretty pumped for it.

I noticed last night beautiful orange flames coming from the exhaust on trailing throttle in 4th and 5th gear after rapidly lifting off the throttle during WOT. It didn't do this before with the twin 2.25" and twin cat setup. Bonus!!!

Reminds of when I was playing squash with a mate and the grip on my racquet was getting worn. Swung at a big forehand, racquet slipped and hit him square in the balls. Trying to ask if he is ok while I'm pissing myself laughing

Some more progress today with the fuel pump finished and back in the car. First off I will say I am happy that I chose to use the proper convoluted fuel line because I realised that the pump is actually squashed down when mounted to the tank. The submersible like would of kinked straight away. I checked all the filters I got and decided that the filter that was supplied with the pump was the best option. The extra 45 degree filter I got would sit the pump up way to high. I've attached some photos of them all for comparison. During the week I pulled up at a local wrecker and wanted to buy any modern fuel pump I could find. I ended up buying it for peanuts to try and have a go at removing the factory convoluted hose and just inspect things in general. What I found was I could remove the hose without wrecking it with a little bit of heat from a lighter and some gentle prying with a flat blade. It is possible so good to know. Another thing I found was the diaphragm in the bottom of the swirl pot was much larger and had a larger opening. I began to wonder if I could file the ford pot and enlarge that hole, fit the larger diaphragm and effectively get more petrol into the pot. Then I decided to stop playing engineer and use the stock ford diaphragm and possibly revisit the idea down the track. If anyone has any suggestions about this, good idea, bad idea or just ugly I am open to it. Put the pump back together, once again a little bit of heat made the plastic hose slide on nice and chucked on some clamps for good measure. The pump sits in secure and has about 1-2mm of up and down movement. Basically I can clip together the assembly and the pump isn't push or forced down. Satisfied with the outcome and hope to have no issues moving forward. I also got the tyres fitted up and balanced. Nothing special at this stage just some good yokahama commuter type tyres for the front and some cheap 2018 build toyos for the rear. Once the car is on the road and the bugs are ironed out, I plan to do a skid or 3 and then get some sticky ones. With some luck I will get back in the garage on the weekend and finish off the turbo side of things and have the car mobile again.

Little bit more progress on the car. Motivation is low like in the minus but pushing hard to break out. First up a pulled the pump out of the car a stripped the assembly to work out what I need. I drilled the return fitting and started to modify the cradle more so the bit that the walbro 460 sits in. I cut away about 20mm and the walbro now sits in its stop fine and the assembly clips back in. It doesn't feel squashed and the filter sock sits at the bottom of the pod. I have however ordered a different filter sock with looks more like the factory one. The stock filter that is supplied gets a little squashed when you slide it down into its home. I'm going to try both and see which one sits better and use that. I know a lot of people say just fit the whole big pod assembly and that is the best way to go without a doubt. There's a lot of guys who daily the car and just can't afford the downtime of stripping the pump and then 'oh I need this and then I need this' waiting for stuff to come 1-2 weeks etc is a no go. I. My case I'm lucky I'm not rushed and can do it this way. Next up I ordered some plastic fuel line from race works and still waiting for that to arrive. I had some heat shrink sitting in fuel for a week and it looked perfect after checking on it. So I used that and wired the ford plug onto the walbro pump wires. Once I have the rest of the parts, the install should go smooth. The I moved my attention back to the exhaust and turbo. I waites a few weeks for the nordlock washers to come and they didnt. I then ordered 4 from another local supplier and they sent 3.. Seriously 3.. Anyway I put a spring washer on the easy to reach on and I will sort it out at some stage down the track. I wrapped the manifold and saved a few bucks. I'm hoping it fits under the factory heat shields. Fitted it all back up. The studs made it a pain in ass and I called the exhaust and turbo some filthy names for a minute or two. I also picked up this turbo blanket, they claimed it would fit but no matter what I did, I couldn't work it out. So I left it out. I also picked up some heat insulation from autobahn for the oil feed line. Things are semi on track once the fuel pump and turbo bits are sorted it will be tyres and rego. Hope to go through the car service wise, plugs, coils and fluids egc and then to cms for a tune asap.

18psi g2gtx e85. It misfired a couple of times at high rpm and sent the bore, piston and rod through the exhaust. Bottom end is na territory block/sump (no oil cooler derp), spool drag pro rods and standard size bullet cp pistons w/ upgraded pins, has a girdle/machined caps, oil pump gears and relief/pressure mods, 360 thrust, atomic timing and flex plate, etc. Recon bf turbo head/valves, crow springs/retainers, stock territory turbo cams/gears, 1mm cometic head gasket. The gtx turbine wheel got chewed up, so have swapped the gen2 back plate, comp wheel and cover over to the stock chra with a ported rear housing/larger flapper, and that 11.8psi garret actuator you sent me a few years ago. Plaz territory front mount with plaz intake top half. Bosch 1000's, 460 intank, ts fpr800. Upgraded cat section w/ stock catback and stock dump, 4 inch intake w/ 9 inch k&n filter w/ battery under the guard. It runs whatever (open loop) boost on the day but mostly 21psi on 98. Sorry to take over thread

Got bored last weekend and painted everything black in the front end so it doesn't stand out so much. Got manual shifter surround so modified a few things and made it fit. Looks heaps better. Got a new exhaust manifold, just cos. Will do the exhaust in a few weeks when I get around to it. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

He has the fastest factory-not-factory turbo to not go 250kmh Edit Arronm if someone is asking what power a factory turbo makes, you can guarantee they're interested in potential that doesn't required a modified head ffs

As I said, just because it's on a dyno sheet doesn't mean that the dyno wasn't set to make higher power (and your sheet is 100% from a hub dyno, it even says it on the sheet). Plus, saying "I have the tuner with the only billet block" means basically nothing as buying a billet block just requires enough money and inclination to spend enough money, not necessarily a thing that says "oh, my tuner can extract more power than anybody has ever done out of a un-modified GT3582R on a Barra...

Figured I'd put my finished catch can setup in the thread. 2x 20$ ebay cans for the separate lines. Should be all technically correct & legal but not exactly stealthy looking. This is the oil I've caught over the 1200km they've been installed. 4ml from the front breather 18ml from the back breather Sent from my fancy pansy touchy screeny phoney

Got a Dyno sheet to look at Todd ? 27 psi is a fair wack

I heard that out of date chilli sauce is bad for camshaft wear. Just remembered I had a Nutella Danish yesterday. Damn it was good.

Gulf Western truck just came. Full syn because I don't give a sh*t

Good info about the sump swap if needed, thank you! I have been working my way through lots of discussions reading all I can during breaks at work. I too love all the cars, but I love the Fords a little more 🤪

Me neither. Better some food than no food.

Id almost travel to adelaide just to get my engine bay that clean [emoji1787] Cant go wrong with JETURBO.

No I got that.... but with him who knows. We can’t all build a house of our gold bars

I just sent an email to a contractor that contained the words: nonsensical redundant inferior substrate inadequate level of finish then ended it with “warm regards”. going well today 🤣

battery or diff bush

Good to see all you guys sharing your info. Things have come a long way so since I wrote up a tutorial to mount a single din head unit in a BA Falcon almost 15 years ago! I also used to make an adapter for the BA steering wheel controls to work with Alpine head units. I am about to embark on the same project myself now in my FG. I had an old Sony xav-701 which I completely gutted and was going to fit the screen in the same place as the MK1 colour screen. It's a pretty easy fit but at the end of the day, it is a source unit which is coming close to being 10 years old. I pick up my Alpine ilx-w650 today. Just need to get the canbus adapter working on the Hvac.

Yeah good choice on the corrugated line. Most people cut the submersible hose to the exact size to keep the height right which is a bit of a muck around. I did it in a loop like Mickey Mouse ears the first time, but in my current car used the corrugated stuff.

Well this old horse finally drank the water. I honestly wouldn't have known how hard the car was falling over if it wasn't for the dyno. So yerp I turned the boost down as far as it would go, about 16psi, and retuned it using virtual dyno in conjunction with the PCMTec data logger, to help get a better looking graph. Talk about time consuming! I had to learn some excel functions cos the data wasn't in a friendly format but after sorting that, I think I made some solid tune gains. Thank fark for partial writes with PCMTec! Here's a pic of the previous high boost (in green), first low boost pull this morning in blue and what I ended up with this arvo in red. The blue and red are both on the same boost level (16psi give it take), green had roughly 8 pounds more but much less timing. I used 6 smoothing to closer reflect the actual dyno numbers I saw the other day. Either way as long as I stick with the same settings I can measure the changes. I think it's fair to say the exhaust is the issue but I'll see what happens with new genuine coils and plugs.

Got the turbo manifold on today Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Places like monstatorque make something like 5 ZF boxes a week, they have the process so streamlined Rob's wife can assemble them now. Lots of efficiency when you are building that number of them, plus you can bulk buy parts to drop the prices. People still go C4/TH400 thinking its cheaper but the reality is its still $10k to do one of those once you factor everything in including stall converter, tailshaft, PCM/loom modification to manualise it. There are lots of hidden costs people forget about, the actual box itself is only part of it. None of the big shops will warranty a box if you use anything but their tune in them. It's easy to blow up a big power ZF box by doing silly things like going from unlocked to locking the torque converter at peak torque.

It’s a bit like the 84rs I tuned a month back, it can spool so hard so fast it will only shine if everything can take it including the engine. Obviously 84rs flows way more LTRS/HR than a 76 so 24 psi on a 84rs is pushing the engine harder than a 76 on 24 psi but a G2 76 “Could” potentially push Rodney to an unhappy place due to the rapid rate of rise. I personally wouldn’t be advising anyone to crank a G2 76 on “full send” with a stock B series engine, maybe 90% on the initial hit. A FG “probably” could withstand 100% send on the initial hit and live. When the GTX series first came out G1 76’s were super popular but what we were seeing was nearly ever vehicle that was set to full send was lunching half shafts like crazy vs the G1 82 vehicles so this was showing how much more it could stress the full driveline ( inc engine ) with that down low punch .... This is the same reason it’s never advised to activate N2O below 4000rpm as it just stresses everything too much ! Gains under the curve are usually at the cost of hardware longevity

Short answer is no so far, it could of held 17.5 psi flat until redline but this combo was out of fuel pump so I had to fade it away up top on purpose to make power come over and as it was it kept making power until the end of the run. It had no issues holding 16 psi flat until redline with 66% waste gate DC ( in simple terms ) A Set up 7 psi actuator like I had will hold 20 psi until 6000rpm I fully believe where it tapers after that I’m unsure, a bigger actuator will then counter it but again the airflow characteristics will always end somewhere but where I can’t say yet but my maths on the experience says it could hold 22 psi until redline with a 11.8 and 100% and E85 All turbo chargers will “sea saw” at some point

coming along slowly

Working from home - trying to spreadsheet and not head out to garage and mod...

The Precision 6235 spools better than the gtx with similar top end capability - at least from the results I got. Used to be a lot cheaper than the gtx, and can use existing ported rear housing. For a street car I think you may be better off with a gtx3576 mk 2 and accept 360-380 rwkw on P98. The bigger turbos are only worth it - where you will really notice a difference - when you go 450rwkw and have a set-up that can support it safely.