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Hi All, Turns out it was the instrument cluster/speedo causing the indicator issue, glad that ones been solved! All your responses were spot on though these are things the Mechanic and Autoelec had ruled out. I've had the car for 7 months now, It's an ex company car that was kept very clean, picked it up with 79k on the clock, Ego with black interior and factory 18" wheels. Only mods so far are some lowered springs and tint. No plans for tuning yet but I wont rule it out. Overall very happy with the car. Thanks for your replies. Gary

So I took dump, waste gate screamer, heat sheilds and water and oil lines off turbo, removed manifold and turbo as one piece and found bad exhaust leaks on both ends of the Artec manifold. It was still all done up tight and couldnt come loose because I had atomic anchorlox nuts holding it on. Manifold flange is badly warped, banana ed. Very disappointing. Anyway I rang the retailer and they got hold of Artec and lots of photos and emails later Artec sent me a brand new manifold, this one has a flat flange, I checked it. I didnt check the first one when I first got it but it didnt leak until 1500ish kms. So iv installed it all again, I bought new Tinnix inconel studs and new atomic anchorlox nuts and its all go again. I had to send my old warped manifold back. Thankyou Artec for coming to the party.

Progress update: 1. Received the replacement ECU. Opened it up from underneath for practice and to have a look at its condition. Its a slow and fiddly process cutting away the silicone seal and gradually levering the bottom panel open, but overall not difficult. The underside cover is thin aluminium and will bend when you take it off. Overall its a safe process as there is a good amount of space between the seal and the board. The unfortunate thing is the entire board was sealed with clear silicone and this has it stuck to the inside of the case even when the screws and bolts holding the board are undone. That is going to make checking the board a lot more difficult that it needed to be and may necessitate cutting open to ecu along the sides to access the top side of the board. 2. Resealed the replacement ECU and installed it. After some fiddling with Forscan I got it programmed to my keys and recalibrated the control panel (ACM) to get rid of the security code error. 3. Now, the engine starts fine in the cold (double confirming ECU was the problem) BUT its not connecting to the speedometer, meaning it wont change gears So some progress, but still a bit of work to do. Not going to open up the old ECU until I have the new one fully functioning

Going alright mate @Looqmon Arsalah

morning all, happy Tuesday ⛎

While I have heard of PCMs failing, it cannot be anything like as bad as you are presenting. After some simple maths, I am going to call bullsh*t on the failure of "8340 in 24 hours" figure presented. Firstly, how would anyone ever find out that figure of "8340 in 24 hours" in any accurate way? It is not possible for someone to contact every single workshop and ask "Did you have a BA falcon with a damaged PCM today"? Even if they did call every workshop, they would not get to talk to the right staff and get an accurate answer. Secondly, if there had ever actually been 8340 failed in 24 hours, then every single BA would have already failed many times over From a quick search "The Ford Falcon BA sold 281,197 units between 2002 and 2005." 8340 is just under 3% of the BAs produced. At the same rate of 8340 per day, virtually every single BA ever made would have failed in only 1 month. Even if you said "that was a bad day" and the rest of the days they failed at only half that rate (4150), it would still be all over for every single BA in 67 days. I think we can all see that is not the case.... While there might be an issue, it is important to make decisions based on facts.

I haven't been on here in so long, so sitting here in case something goes on with the Board video conferencing and thought I might see who is still on here. Saw Aaronm's white R8 Wagon Azzas R8 about a month back, in one of my local shopping centre's. That's all we need, more riff raff moving into Mandurah 😉

Just a small update: I finally found the time to pull the valve body and TCM. I tested the solenoids and all of them are within spec which leads me to believe it's definitely the torque converter. I'm hoping to swap the boxes this weekend but wont be able to test it out till the oil I ordered arrives

Cheers for that woz! That link you provided will be a great help, I didn't even know it was possible to test the solenoids that way. I'm going to try and get a used zf6 hopefully this week as it seems a bit tricky to get just a torque converter as no one wants to part it from the box which is understandable. I'm pretty sure I can just chuck my old TCM in the new one and reset the learning tables in FORscan and it should hopefully all work. Going uphill the other day I did get some gentle shuddering so I'm leaning towards torque converter. At least when I go to swap the TCM I can test the solenoids with a multimeter then. I was quoted around $1500 in parts for the sonnax zip kit, new solenoids and a few other goodies but hopefully the valve body is still half alright as I don't really want to spend too much more on this car. Thanks again for the advice and link, I'll definitely keep y'all updated on how it goes

If you have forscan and a compatible obd cable, you can see what the torque convertor lockup solenoid is doing and the amount of slip the convertor has. A lot of the time there are no faults associated with a torque convertor that is surging. Worse case scenario you need to pull the box out and replace it, at least they're quite common these days. You could try replacing the EDS6 TCC solenoid if you feel like doing some shotgun troubleshooting. https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/308-zf6hp26-solenoid-identification

Awesome bit of info on here thanks garyk, had exactly the same thing happen to my 2009 FG XR6, tried a spare G6ET cluster in it and it stopped. I know this was an old post but I think it is good to give feedback on fixes like this that can save a heck of a lot of mucking around chasing the wrong symptoms and this is what these sites are so useful for. Thanks again Garyk

WD-40 (or other loosener) and/or a heat gun for the H-frame bolts to make them easier to grab onto and a little looser in their threads. Make sure to use a 6 tooth socket, not a 12 tooth one as it grips tighter, be deliberate and slow with your movements to make sure it doesn't slip onto a bad angle. The studs are M10x1.25 on one side and M10x1.5 on the other. The 1.5 end goes into the manifold and the 1.25 allows for a finer thread and more torque. Do as Jet said to get the bottom-right stud out. If you can't get a good purchase on it, then take the whole manifold and turbo off in one piece and separate the turbo and manifold when out of the car.