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ok here we go, finally got a before and after of the new kitchen all done.

For context, This forum is not only about cars for some of us. Some members have had relationships for over a decade now and are quite good friends. There have been threads about babies and family, homes being built, what beers people drink, what people are cooking for dinner... and so on. One of the joys about it is unlike social media, you can pick and choose what you want to see and, myself personally, as a relatively new builder embarking on my largest project to date, I like to soundboard off of some of the guys who’ve been there done that and it helps with additional considerations. If this forum were about money I’d have bought a Ferrari and posted about it, but it’s nothing to do with who’s more wealthy or flaunting their possessions (allowing for the jokes about ArronM and his gold toilets). Unlike social media, it doesn’t just pop up on your time line and it’s not in your face, if you choose to click on a topic and read it, then that’s a choice you’ve made to view. If that somehow makes you disgruntled and is interpreted as a flash of wealth instead of being entertained by the content then that’s on you. Aussie culture at it again, making everything a tall poppy syndrome argument. Most of us here, as far as I am aware (the members I’ve known for ten plus years) weren’t born with a silver spoon in their mouth and have worked for everything they have, including myself. I am extremely proud of what I’ve accomplished, not because of a monetary value, but because I’m also covered in gyprock dust and getting into a project I’ve designed and managed from its inception, and I am in no way shape or form ashamed to say I enjoy posting it here to share with people I have built relationships with over a long period of time. In actuality some of this things I enjoy most about the “off topic” conversations are low monetary projects and are things people have hand crafted or created which shows their creativity and abilities, which I could only ever dream of having. To me it’s no different to watching someone post about a vehicle build, it’s not about the money, it’s about what they’ve managed to achieve and accomplish, if we’re going to “poo poo” everyone who does things just because it costs money, then just sh*t can the whole internet including people’s car build threads, because anyone who’s ever built a car from the ground up knows none of that is free!

Sorry for the slow updates it’s been crazy town and I’ve got some more stuff to post but I’ll start with the most exciting one first Had Alex @boakesautomarine back on the rollers after a mammoth makeover on what was an already amazing set up and has gone for the next stage power and supporting mods wise. As you may remember it knocked out 517rwkw last time with the 84rs 1.21 now Alex has done an amazing job of fitting the following Aeroflow 7375 1200HP Turbocharger with 1.15 Vband housing New design 6 Boost Vband manifold New 60mm Turbosmart Gate to screamer New custom Dump New 4* Full stainless exhaust with twin Magnaflow 4*-4* mufflers Power steering reservoir relocation kit With braided lines Tunnel Vision Intake manifold Tunnel vision fuel rail Tunnel vision Dipstick Tunnel vision Thermostat housing Turbosmart clamps all round Raceworks Catch can and -10 Braid KAAZ LSD centre, 3.23 gear set up from 2.72 Hit the rollers and made obviously laggier by respect but way higher numbers with a final result of 627rwkw / 840rwhp on 28psi flat With a 6850rpm limiter and still plus 1300nm all through a high stall 2800 converter 6R80 ZF. Giving a conservative loss of 20% the engine is making just over 1000fwhp now Has more in it and numbers look like it could go 700+ rwkw with another 6-8 psi but in due course we will get there here’s the fun parts !

Spinning pig. Oh yeah Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Finally dropped the exhaust on the dyno today. With no tune changes it went from 350 to 385awkw and picked up nearly 3 seconds of spool time. That is probably more to do with having more wg preload, rather than the lack of back pressure. Also the wgdc dropped from 100% to 75%. I added a couple of pounds in the tune from 4500rpm onward for a total of about 22psi and it went 409awkw on 98 octane...from Ampol... I think it made 965nm torque which you can see in the graph below. I deliberately brought the boost in "slower" (in the tune) to take care of the driveline and this can be seen in the red boost line, although it ended up coming in heaps quicker anyway. I stopped there and will do the same with e85 some other time. I spose I'll see about filling in the gap in the torque curve (when the converter locks?) but meh, that's for another day. Haha I literally only did 2 runs then packed up and went home. Here's a couple of pics for the pic lovers, although I did manage to chop off the left hand axis...oh well, it was scaled from 0 to 500kw if anyone is interested, so every horizontal line is 50kw.

Went out for a drive today with the missus to spend some money in country Victoria who have been locked down and out of business for months. Standard drive up to Healesville to see some places where she used to live and a bit of a hike up around Badger Weir to do some mushroom hunting (she loves it), then out through the Black Spur out and out to Marysville for some lunch. Decided to take the long way back instead of going back through the Black Spur or Archeron Way (possibly unsealed for part of the way) and went back towards Lake Mountain direction and turned off onto the Reefton Spur through to Warburton and back home. Reefton Spur was signficantly less populated and really fun. Saw some nice exotics out there, too: Lambo's, Lotus', Corvette, Maserati etc. Had a really good stretch of the car's legs Had a lot of fun in the twisties Lunch: The hike Finally hit some traffic at Warburton... oh well. Busy country towns and all. The missus took the photos so I didn't get any except that last one of the car haha

lounge before and after

Had Dave back in for another round of Mods on his very well presented G6ET only after a few months but Dave probably has only put on 200 odd kms as it’s his weekend vehicle. Thought process was kind of why not and why not indeed On went the following .... Genuine Garrett GTX G2 3582,T3,1.06,11.8psi actuator Plazmaman HD Valve springs Stage 1 Brake package includes DBA T3’s All round and DBA Street pads all round New 2nd Key coded and transponder paired Powder coated ECU cover Plazmaman Black overflow tank New black headlight swopped out Full custom Re Tune on 98 Fuel Finished up at 395rwkw / 530rwhp on 18.5 PSI boost Turned it into one hell of a street beast now and I think ol mate Dave is a happy camper

Now feel like lockdowns over

Camp stew from the backstaps tonight

For all the solar lovers

Up on the Tablelands at me mates farm Home grown T bone [emoji1787]

So yerp there is an exhaust manifold in transit to my house to suit the 7675. I still have the box of pipes, so if and when I get some spare time, I'll make the manifold I intended to. Until then it's gonna be another boring high mount 7675 territory...haha oh well Just for the exhaust lovers, I might pipe it through the stock rear section to see what happens lol At any rate it should hit the dyno before xmas. I guess we'll see soon enough

Nice work... we’ve been doing some exploring too the last couple days... caught a boat and here we are... Cars filthy.... she loves it!!! Wondering why I had her detailed before the trip 😂

Tent doing tent stuff

Looks a bit different now. Kicks go down tomorrow morning for the cabinets and then I lay the bamboo floor over the weekend. Doing most of the house with it, so will see how far I get!

Wow that window is nice. Kitchen and laundry came out today. Bye bye asbestos!

I want free power!!! SA is legit the biggest rip off for power consumption charges. In other news... I have cabinetry starting to be installed 😬 #wideon

All good. Had a cracker of a day really. The nankang ar1 semis stuck like glue which didn't really require any camber changes. Managed a 55.4 lap which put me 10th today out of 50. Cars in front of me were all track cars or high end cars so was stoked. Here's my best lap followed by my biggest moment where my skill ran out haha. Had some brake fade/ pad loss, which didn't really slow me down as I could still bounce of the abs, but had to push on the pedal damn hard.

I should finally have something to contribute to this thread soon - new kitchen and laundry starts in two weeks. Kitchen currently has three vintages in it, including some cupboards from the original 1971 fitout. Both floors and the laundry walls are asbestos, plus we want to move a doorway and remove a wall so will be a total strip and refit. Plus I'm installing bamboo floors in the whole house and then need to get started on the deck and pergola. No car tinkering for me for a while!

If you have followed her progress you'll see that she studied her arse off, got qualified and designed and built her own house with help from the hubby, while including her mum into it and losing her dad along the way. She's not that old either and has achieved more in the past 10 years than some slackers will ever achieve. Anyhow, it's neither here nor there for me but you've gotta give credit where it's due and fwiw it's kinda cool to see someone share their progress. After all it's what this thread is about. It's no small feat what these two are doing and they deserve to feel good about it.

Yesterday's fun. Bit of in car action

New fence down one side of my place done, took a week to do solo, not including the 2yrs of putting it off. Still 6 or so truck loads of clearing the other side of the block till I can do it too. Sent from my fancy pansy touchy screeny phoney

In exactly 3 months I've dropped my weight from 122kg to 107.9kg. There's still plenty of fat to lose but I'm getting there

get an electric bypass valve, take the output for the butterflys from the pcm to control the exhaust...or just leave it.. will open at like 4300 rpms and close again at like 4

This thread suffers from a lack of dyno sheets, videos and pictures

couple of barra r31s floating around, I just killed the rb30 in my r31 a couple weeks ago. last week I picked up a bf mk2 setup, so the NA motor and ZF combo. Orderd the rbfactory mount kit, waiting for that to arrive. spoke to a bloke who has a turbo zf r31, he used the t56 mounts but just changed the mount pattern for the zf box, he reckons it was super close. this is not a go fast car, so a na barra and zf will be way more lively than the rb30 ever was. pretty keen to get started.

Wife: I'm going to bed, you coming? Me: Nah, I'm gonna stay up a bit. Also me: you don't wanna stay up and talk about turbos? Wife: No, not even remotely, goodnight! Pfft who doesn't wanna talk about turbos?

Couldn't get the tractor everywhere - had to collect some firewood by hand Beautiful country Son got his first stag last night I think he'll definitely be on more trips

Laid the bamboo floor in the dining, kitchen and laundry on Saturday. Stopped there as I figured I should wait until the kitchen work is finished to reduce the risk of damage in the hallway. Plus once everything is back in the kitchen I'll have more space in the house to shuffle furniture to lay the lounge and kids rooms.

Doing some wiring tonight, still got a couple of gremlins I'm trying to sort out. Got some wheels today though, FG Lux pack 19s. Looks pretty neat Sent from my SM-A908B using Tapatalk

Trent out of the shed for the first day since his nosejob last week Ready to live up to his name this weekend

It is. Bush upgrade has made a big improvement to handling. Car feels much sharper, heaps better on centre feel and the pulsating under braking is gone. The radius arm bushes and inner lower control arm bushes were shot. Diff whine has also gone with the install of the new 3.23 gears. Replaced the right driveshaft at the same time as the outer CV boot was leaking grease.

Had Taylor back in for some maintenance items and some necessities as the old girl is getting up there now kms wise and what better time than to just do a big bunch of it in one shot hey ! The Harmonic balancers have always been an item of concern on the turbo falcon and as the years and kms move along they’re becoming more required to be replaced with a good solid item and my Go To is Always Atomic In went the following New Atomic HD balancer and Bolt New Belt New tensioner New idler Major service New exhaust Gaskets Plazmaman HD valve springs New Coils Full custom Re tune on 98 fuel Now this ute has a GT3582 and a Plazmaman entry level 700hp cooler kit on it not the standard 76 so it finished up at 353rwkw / 935nm on 16.8psi peak

I just use one of my cats to tell the weather. If I throw it out the window and it comes back in wet, I know it's raining.

This has been a long time coming! I said I'd do a writeup of my intercooler install a while ago and never got around to it, till now! 💪 Take this thread post thing as a GUIDE! Every car although the same model can be slightly different, as found out after to a bunch of people who have installed this cooler – some even do it for a living! In saying that they will all be pretty close! Although this guide is done for a Mk1, a Mk2 install should be pretty similar, as far as I know the only real difference is that the Mk2 has AC lines that interfere and need to be bend out the way. I still recommend anyone that reads this guide to have a good read through the plazzy instructions too, they aren't the best but have some good pointers. Special thanks goes out to @JETURBO for all the wisdom and chats to help me through this! All the photos for this thread can be found here, some will be in the thread itself. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO ASK BELOW! I WILL DO MY BEST TO HELP YOU AS BEST I CAN (And I'm sure the others here will do the same) Requirements The intercooler kit itself You NEED aftermarket piping, I went with the intune motorsports piping kit, pretty good for the price! You can go with the plazzy piping too. Silicone reducers, I needed a 2.5" to 3" (63mm to 76mm) reducer for the intune piping. Angle grinder for all the mad cutting you're about to do. Reciprocating saw makes removing the factory IC mount easier - I did it with an angle grinder but was a pain. Other usual tools: socket set, screwdriver, etc. PATIENCE! Start early cause this job will take a lot longer than you think!! Jack up the car, or use ramps, and take the front bumper off I used ramps because you don't need to take the wheels off to do this install. That being said, to take the bumper off without taking the wheels off is a bit of a pain. Not impossible though! Lots of resources online on how to do this hence why I skipped explaining it. Here's a good thread that covered it pretty well. Remove the bumper support, horn bracket, headlights, and wiper bottle Remove all the bits that will be getting in the way. The black support thing needs to be removed, so do the headlights. I took the horn off cause it got in the way, just one bolt and a plug for the horns themselves Remove the water bottle for the wipers. You'll need a deep socket for this! I did this later on during the install but just save the time and do it now instead of avoiding it like me. The horn and wiper bottle pics are shown below Unbolt Intercooler Remove the piping from the intercooler. My car already had the intune piping kit so I just had hose clamps. The stock piping is easy to remove though. Just follow the pipes and remove the bolts that hold the stock piping in place. There's 4 bolts in total that hold the IC in. Two on the sides and two on the top, shown below. Say goodbye to the POS plastic intercooler. Cut the IC Support off You don't need to cut this flush but I did cause it looked better. Refer to the Plazzy manual on where you need to cut it to get by. I recommend cutting it flush though. If you use a reciprocating saw I'd put some wood or something on the other side so you don't cut through anything important. I marked in black on the sides where I cut. I cleaned it up more after I took these shots too but you get the point I think. Remove lower rad support I followed the plazzy instructions for this, the bolt has a weird flat-head screwdriver type head on one side which I think is dumb but whatever. I held that with pliers. There's also a bolt on the bottom of the rad support too. I also zip tied the top of the rad before removing the supports just to help support it a little. Not necessary but gave me piece of mind so up to you if you want to do it. Once the bottom supports are off go ahead and remove the top ones too. Drill the holes for the new rad support Now this is the part where @JETURBO saved my bacon. These measurements are from him. The measurements from the plazzy instructions are a little confusing. Refer to the picture below to see where the reference is taken from for these measurements. The first mark is at 100mm and the second at 165mm. Its from the end of the lower part of the crash support bar thingy. Yes, thingy, just look at the damn image. Centre the holes across the horizontal plane. Start with a 4mm pilot hole followed by a 8.5mm hole. Install the new rad support Put the mushroom looking rubber pieces back onto the radiator but put them on upside down! Its weird I know, but just do it. Makes life easier! I found this part so tricky and a lot of cussing occurred over a sad amount of time getting this thing in. This is the way I did it but if you know an easier way then reply below! It may be easier if you remove the zip ties mentioned above before doing this. I used a jack and a piece of mdf to hold the bracket and lift it up I lined up the radiator holes with the rubber with the holes on the top of the rad support and slowly lifted the jack up. With some adjusting and wiggling, get the rad support to line up with the furhest back holes and bolt them in. Tilting the rad support towards you helps with this. Once the back screws are in you can then use the jack to lever and tilt the rad support to line up with the front holes. I wish I'd filmed this to show it better. But just be patient with this part. Take your time! This is one of the hardest parts of the install so have a beer to celebrate your achievement! Now compare the old with the new to bask in all the glory of the new intercooler you just purchased I mean look at the difference!!! This thing is hugee! Like Donald Trump huge! I do kinda regret not getting the polished version but oh well! Still performs great! Also, get another drink while you're at this stage because alcohol makes this way more interesting. Add the top IC brackets I only took a photo after the install but you get the point from this. The right angle brackets are fitted using the factory hood latch bolts. I used the upper slots but your mileage may vary. Start with the top ones and fit the cooler to see if you need to use the others. Keep the bolts loose so you can adjust the intercooler. Cut the condenser bolts and trim some of the inner front crash bar. Bend the AC line, cut the crash bar. This is step 13 and 14 in the plazzy instructions. You NEED to cut these bolts shorter to fit the cooler. On the other hand, the crash bar part is dependant on the install of the rad support. I needed to trim a little bit, and by a little I mean I did even use a cutting disk. I just grinded it down a bit. I recommend grinding some off just to be safe. You can always slowly fit the cooler and see where it interferes and go from there (this is what I did). I also had to bend the AC line a bit but not much at all. This step is where it'll likely differ for you. These are also photos I took after the install but they will give you a good idea of what needs to be cut and bent. Step 20 of the instructions says to cut the crash bar. Its not shown in any of my photos but I had to do this for my install. I recommend just doing it and saving the hassle. Its easy to cut and gives you more room for the piping Test fit and repeat cutting process Using a jack, slowly lift the cooler from under the car. Hold the top of the cooler and keep an eye for anywhere it is hitting. I highly recommend you tape up the IC before doing or else you risk scratching it if you're not careful. I didn't do this but I took my time when lifting the cooler and checked everywhere to make sure it wasn't interfering anywhere. Once you can lift it far enough that you can bolt the top of the IC in, do so. You can then lower the jack and inspect anywhere where the cooler is fouling. I had to cut some of the plastic where the old lower radiator mounts were. No one mentioned this anywhere so could just be me but figured I'd mention it. Install lower IC bracket Once you are happy with the fitment its time to install the lower brackets. Follow the image below for a reference because they don't give you any in the instructions. Bolt it on loosely and adjust the cooler till you're satisfied with its fitment. Once you're happy, tighten all the bolts. Now is a good time to tighten the top rad support brackets and double check the lower rad support bolts. You can also reinstall the horn and washer bottle now too. The piping! This part is a b%$@ch to do. All you need is time and patience. You shouldn't need to do any more cutting by this point. If you have the intune piping or similar design, my best advice is to ram that piping into the intercooler ends as far as you can. You shouldn't damage the inside of the IC cause it won't go that far, just get them in there as far as you can! Cut all your Plastic parts This part doesn't need any images, just follow the plazzy instructions on what to cut as they explain it pretty well. A lot of people remove the lower rock guard so they don't have to cut it. I did it the long way and cut mine so I could keep the guard. This is where my images end because I followed the plazzy instructions afterwards. They do an alright job at explaining the piping and cutting plastic job but if you have questions just ask below! Reinstall bumper Check all piping clamps are tight. Reinstall the lights and the bumper and then stand back and admire your work. You did good!

Re bush rime. Replacing all the factory bushes with Superpro. Given the cars only done 75000kms some of the original bushes are in bad condition, namely the front inner control arm and the radius arms. Ordered replacement radius arms rather than replacing the bushes alone. I ordered a 3.07 CW&P to replace the factory 3.23 gears as they were whining more than the bed wetters afraid of the government opening the borders. Alas, the 3.07 gears didn't work as they were not for the M86 diff as advertised. They'll be going back for a refund. Have to replace the right driveshaft as the outer shaft is leaking, spraying grease all over the shock absorber boot. I should feel some improvement to handling and hopefully the intermittent shuddering during braking will go away with the new bushes.

Was mums birthday yesterday. She’s been without my dad for a while now and I’m trying to help her be more self sufficient after never working or having to look after herself alone for the last 50 years. I managed to make her be iPhone friendly over the last 18 months and now I figure it’s time for her to graduate and learn how to use a computer, pay bills online etc. We got her a Mac for her combined birthday/Christmas present and hopefully I can teach her how to use it.

Finally got the windows tinted, only taken 5 years. Changed the front bar to a BA XR6 as I had damaged my old BF one, I like the BA look better. Moved the trans cooler to where the washer bottle normally sits. Moved the haltechs data port to inside the car to make life a bit easier. Need to find some decent wheels so I can have some wider rubber on the rear. Can't accelerate too quickly on the street otherwise it spins the tires when the converter locks up. Fun but useless lol Sent from my SM-A908B using Tapatalk

morning all, happy Monday, in which both major sporting code teams I follow are now premiers

Did have videos after but pissed and talking sh!t haha Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

I used a machine that does them on the car. It's a very quick process compared to the old method, once you've got the hang of it.

There's a nipple on the front of the stock turbo that goes to the boost control solenoid and then a separate line comes out of the solenoid and goes to wastegate nipple. If the GTX3582R you have doesn't have a nipple to connect to you do what Puffwagon said and drill+tap a line and then run it the same as the stock turbo was.

what do you expect? people to just ask you questions and you answer them? it's mostly just an information show-and-tell and a few thumbs up etc to say how well you're doing. the updates are sincerely appreciated by many people irrelevant of whether a discussion specific to those latest posts happens to continue onwards from the sporadic posting of the OP

First coat on 96m of skirting boards

The TSC is based on wheel rotation using the ABS sensors. I can't see that you would have a calibration issue after changing the brakes. I've got the same set up (322mm front with upgraded 328mm rear). I'd say it's more likely the ABS sensor was damaged or dislodged during the install. Just a guess though - someone else may have direct experience with the issue.

Shut up with your science logic Keif

dont forget piks otherwise you get banned lel

@GAS41T Jealousy is a bad trait to have bro... XD This is a community forum and you're under the "off topic" section of it, what did you think was gonna come up here 🤣