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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/07/20 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Haha saw this on the internet and so suddenly decided it was the most urgent thing I needed to do. Gives the kids a laugh.
  2. 4 points
    20 pounds is fine. 30 not so fine.
  3. 4 points
    Benefits of the Work From Home days.... slow cooked pasta sauce.... Gnocchi Ragu
  4. 3 points
    Pushing ahead as fast as I can crack the whip at this stage.... The Chippies have been on site for 3 weeks and almost completed bottom story, top story, front porticos and alfrescos with the roof trusses and frame work hopefully being done buy the end of this week. Given we don’t wanna waste time, lower story glass installed also last week while chippies still worked on the upper level. Greatest part is now we can stand on the upper level (by ladder at the moment) and we have an amazing view of all the CBD buildings and then the rolling hills behind, which is awesome. Taking the littlest upstairs for the first time to have a look....
  5. 3 points
    So yerp, swapped out the fuel filter and same result. Goes to 12:1 at wot coming onto boost then starts running away. I got the missus to check the fuel pressure in the driveway while I held the launch control on and the fpr is working. Looks like I'll be looking in the tank. The Walbro 460 is about 5 years old and sat for a while (in fuel though) so it might be tired. Could have a leak in there too so yerp, better check. I just filled up recently and filled my two jerry cans with E85, so I'll have to buy some more jerry cans to empty some fuel out to get the tank out. Oh well, that's cars for ya.
  6. 2 points
    Some more after hours hoist action! First up a fitted the bolt in cat section. Was able to re use the factory heat shield and secured them with some metal straps. The venom system fit well, no issues. Its quiet, basically sounds the same as stock at idle and just a little more noise when driving. Its perfect, just the way I like it. I sourced the boot/fuel door switch a little while ago and finally did the swap. Its a nothing job but damn I feel good when I fix stuff like that. Next up was the drive shaft rubber. Its wasn't too too bad but did have some small tears in it. Replacement is the only option. The car is booked in with cms and I will be dropping it off mid week.. Anyone want to guess rwkw? My setup is basic, k&n filter, monza cooler, raceworks 1000cc inj, walbro 460, fg turbo and turbo smart 12psi actuator. I'm thinking 260rwkw roughly. A couple off other issues have popped up last few days. 1. A noticeable thud down by the passenger floor/foot well. Its something air con related because I think it doesn't do it if I start the car with the air con already off. If its on and I start the car, the thud happens.. Any ideas? 2. The traction control light comes on randomly and can't be turned off. The only way is to turn the car off and back on again. In one case it came back on again and went away after a second shutdown startup. I did some quick research but nothing sticking out atm so I might scan it and see of anything comes up. From what I have seen when I did the brakes, the abs sensors look to be ok so it might be something else. In other news, my dash needs some serious attention. Its dry and chalky looking and really letting down the rest of the interior. Currently looking at options on how to fix it up.. Vinyl spray paint, some sort of ceramic coating. See how it goes soon. Fun and games really but very keen to see the results from the tune and how the transmission feels after.
  7. 2 points
    Dummied up, ready for wiring... It was supposed to happen today, but my wiring guy/tuner had issues with a car he was dynoing.. Next week it is... I found that the mating the spring in the boot and the coil was questionable, due to the spring seating lower in the silicon. The coil is long enough to reach the spring, but you can't ensure that it is correctly seated. I stretched the spring with some pointy nosed pliers until it was flush with top of the silicon, so that I could seat it into the coil before it engages the silicon. Also be aware that the silicon will separate from the coil when removing and the pill will fall into the spark plug valley under the coil bracket... The silicon is a snug fit into the bracket and takes some effort to remove..
  8. 2 points
    Had quite a few members chase down some great prices on new Performance parts and of course I’m happy to help all members out wherever I can @Rob70 got the following Full Atomic timing chain kit,Full pump assembly, HD balancer with bolt, lower HD sprocket, Aeroflow 6664 Turbocharger complete with full SS gasket kit and correct Silicone joiners to suit his FG turbo all the way in N.Z ! Had @Porro back in for a new Drive belt & Idler & Tensioner metal upgrade pulleys
  9. 2 points
    Iam in the process of making up complete new buttons with bezel. This means you can have yours repaired or get a complete new one. Will be right to go in 2 - 4 weeks
  10. 2 points
    home made from scratch beef enchilada cheers to the missus
  11. 2 points
    Dinner tonight: Roasted Chicken Breast in a Herb Crumb stuffed with Camembert and Smoked Honey Ham. Stuffed Portobello Mushroom topped with homemade Ragu and Mozarella French Onion Roast Potatoes Served with a home made Mushroom Gravy Forgot to take pics but was yum.
  12. 2 points
    im new to this site I have donated $20 all good
  13. 2 points
    Use a fully synthetic auto trans fluid. I use gulf western SYN TS-10. you need 4.5 L
  14. 2 points
    don't quote me but haltech will be able to do zf stuff soon that is what I been told. PCMTEC has come a long way. The reason I went haltech is I got EGT in my car, staged fuel setup, nos, co2 boost control. if any one is going haltech just remb that plug in play ecu does not come with many input and out put I had to get two I/o box to make sure I had enough.
  15. 2 points
    Got a Dyno sheet to look at Todd ? 27 psi is a fair wack
  16. 2 points
    Moving house and covid meant that workouts in the home gym were put on hold. I now have half of it set up and I'm getting back into the swing of things, AMEN for muscle memory!
  17. 2 points
    I haven't been on for a while, life has been busy with different jobs and all. Donation made.
  18. 2 points
    Yeah mate - the big 5-0 Was going to have a bbq this weekend (was allowed up to 5 visitors) but todays new lockdown won't even let me do that :S Ah well - at least I can still drop in on the folks with the kids tonight for dinner - wouldn't even be allowed to do that after tomorrow.
  19. 2 points
    I heard that out of date chilli sauce is bad for camshaft wear. Just remembered I had a Nutella Danish yesterday. Damn it was good.
  20. 2 points
    Gulf Western truck just came. Full syn because I don't give a sh*t
  21. 2 points
    Good info about the sump swap if needed, thank you! I have been working my way through lots of discussions reading all I can during breaks at work. I too love all the cars, but I love the Fords a little more 🤪
  22. 2 points
    There is most likely a vac line that was blocked off when the factory BOV was removed. If you can find that you can just use that.
  23. 2 points
    Been a busy camper Lately and had old mate Adam @Box stock T. back in after not long ago doing the rear end rebuild of diff bushes and cradle “Birthday” but this time was again for another failure of the Half shaft variety lol Drivers side inner CV chit the tin when Adam was obviously enjoying having a more complete solid rear end and sure enough the weak link passes down the line and sure enough “Boom” time. Out with the old and in with a new set of HD shafts to suit a more energetic clutch leg Next up Had Simon @Porro track me down from an old mate who has recommended Simon give me a call to see if I could help him out with a FG mk2 Turbo ZF ute that he was looking to secure as a new daily driver for the long haul out to the Mid north for his job. Requirements were majorly along the lines of setting the ute up for reliability and having a clean bill of health, That said a full custom tune was going to be required and nothing wrong with a few tasteful mods to lift the torque and power production of the car at the same time. This build was definitely great fun as Simon went with my recommendations but also has a very good idea on “what’s what” as he’s no stranger to the performance scene in Adelaide It was a Great time to use some new Tuning software that I had been playing with on my own car and delivered as expected results too. Big shout out to @rollex for having the JD TUNING ADELAIDE stable annoy him from here on in as I’m enjoying using his product for the Turbo falcon. Anyways on with the Ute.... FG Mk2 Turbo Major Turbo specific service Major cooling system service Diff service Plazmaman Street Airbox Plazmaman ITMD KPM Streetfighter 1000cc Injectors Euro4 Cat de ring JD TUNING ADELAIDE ZF Transmission cooler kit, heat exchanger delete, Major flush, new gaskets, filters. JD TUNING ADELAIDE full Custom Dyno Tune using PCMtech Software Trico Blade wiper upgrade Superior Vision Australia LED Headlight upgrade, Hi - Low - Parker - Fog - Numberplate - Reverse lights Sperling seat covers Knocked out a stout 289.3rwkw @ 12.5 psi and I was extremely happy with the results considering it is largely stock standard in the realm of things
  24. 2 points
    If this thread single handily doesn’t show how much of a immature person Arronm is nothing would. Why even bring your useless B/S into general threads regarding general questions Arron ? Seriously no one gives two Chits and no one thinks your “so cool” Your an old man, fruck off and tell all your mates at the Pub how cool you are 😐 Since you’ve always had a crack at nearly every single persons mods/tune/Dyno sheet let’s have a look at your “Magical” witchcraft sheet.... Shall we ? Barely makes 2 psi against the roller - That’s actually really appalling for a GT3582 Takes up until 5000rpm till it makes 15psi ... That’s terribly laggy Power comes over and can’t even pull until redline... Yep what a winner ( performance head that can’t flow past 6000rpm, yeh killer sign me up for one ) Boost can’t even be commanded and held flat... Basic tuning/set up of turbocharger specifics ... ( can’t wait for the excuse on this one ) Power generation down low is pretty average and nothing is showing exemplary efficiency here as depicted by the Torque displacement What you actually have is a “Dyno queen” tune as I doubt a “Fully Built Nizpro” F6 is missing some vital hardware that your tuner is allowing for and can’t ramp it in hard and fast 🤣 Looking forward to you replying to each above statements with facts, know you’ll just sprout off about some totally unrelated issues but you ... Go Girl ! To the bloke who started this thread, Sprints are a good package, I’ve got 414 of 500 and Some might say I know what I’m doing in regards to modifying and tuning Turbo falcons ... Yes the magical 400rwkw zone typically falls just short on the factory turbo GT3582 on 98 fuel so unless it’s tuned Really lazy like old mate above’s graph or on E85 it probably wont do it with full list of mods. Common safe ground is about 18 psi & 360-380rwkw with the GT3582 on the FG/FGX platform A GTX3582 G2 is what you will want to keep as close to characteristics of the factory turbo but have enough support to see the 400rwkw target. This is a well walked path and yes other turbos are on the market that can do it but it’s a more expensive option, characteristics change, manifolds might need to be purchased and the list can go on Typically a punter will want to get to a target with the least amount of outlay and least amount of stuffing around but yes experiment and left of centre options can generate results too... many ways to skin a cat especially if you’re a king killer big wheeler cat peeler Cheers
  25. 1 point
    I had a NPC and now a Malwood clutch (both single plate) FG with 300rwkw. Both very similar feeling, NPC a little heavier. But whatever brand you go, get Malwoods upgraded alloy master and slave cylinders. The extra pedal pressure from a heavy duty clutch made my (and many others) factory plastic master cylinder snap and also my standard style slave leak while I had the NPC kit.
  26. 1 point
    That's an epic result. How the hell do you get an 84rs on boost so hard so early? Clearly the larger rear housing... How much has to do with the converter?
  27. 1 point
    Ok I’ll cut this down into a few smaller updates and Keith can merge them as he feels Had Alex from @boakesautomarine look to try out a new housing on his 84rs as you may remember a few pages back he was rolling with a 1.01 6boost Vband, custom Dump into Xforce 3.5* out with the 1.01 and in with the 1.21 and what we were expecting as normal is a gain in lag but shift the power upwards in the power band and hopefully pick up a few numbers... Well what a story this told and as somewhat suspected the 1.01 was a decent bottleneck that only pictures can really emphasise !! Efficiency is key here old specs 1.01 - 27.5 psi tapering to 22.5 513rwkw and peak of around ~1150nm New specs 1.21 23.5 psi nearly flat and 517rwkw with a massive gain to ~1350nm and mountains down low. 84rs can leave the converter on 20+ Psi straight up ! If this ute can hook is has an easy 9 second pass in it with the stalled 6R80 Yes I’m pretty happy how this finished up Blue 1.01 red 1.21
  28. 1 point
    Most cars will have shims from the factory. more shims less camber. more shims front to back adjusts caster. Come on Keith , you should know this Fat shims are 6mm, This car has done some serious curb jumping
  29. 1 point
    it's only a short 8 hour drive away hahah
  30. 1 point
    I can't even used the forum on my PC when my account is logged in. All the post times show as 9 hours early.
  31. 1 point
    Yerp more car stuff. I didn't go to the dyno today as I've still got a bit of a cough and didn't want to share it with anyone, given how tense folks are these days. I did however get on the laptop and sorted out the cold start for E85. Will have to verify tomorrow but it'll be pretty darn close if not spot on. I also turned it back down to 15ish pounds. There was one oscillation in the WG duty coming onto boost but thanks to PCMTec, I can see exactly where it is and how much I need to adjust it. I went for a little drive to check it and I've definately got a blocked fuel filter or something. So yerp that's about it. I spose I'll go and swap the fuel filter out and see how it goes.
  32. 1 point
    they make good paper weights now though
  33. 1 point
    Meh I’ll own that hahaha My joints Confirm it LOL
  34. 1 point
    I think it's much easier/cheaper and more reliable to convert to petrol and go as many have before. The old turbo taxis has it's fair share of problems. I find the gas systems finicky and problematic at times, this particular motor has also done a few k's too so not sure how it would hold up in the long run anyway.
  35. 1 point
    It looks like your boost gauge line is smaller diameter than the vac lines, but has that T piece. So connect that line to the gauge and into the middle of the T. Then just cut a vac line under the bonnet and connect those to each end of the T. I'll grab a photo later if the sort of thing you are looking for. That BOV you have taken a photo of is the actual air path for the BOV, not the vacuum line that controls operation of the valve. There will be a much smaller line floating around somewhere that been blocked off as well. You see the size you are looking for when I grab a photo.
  36. 1 point
    Tune switch is not done on factory ecu car has Haltech in it. The one in my car has 12 setting to change boost and rev limiter, think of it like it has 12 different tunes you can pick from on the fly. Haltech is fancy bit of gear once you use it you wont go back to stock ecu.
  37. 1 point
    Interesting. This is where I went with it and hit a brick wall...
  38. 1 point
    Crikey, 50 ay?! Happy bday mate!
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    happy 50th you filthy old campaigner
  41. 1 point
    Ah that's where I'm going wrong. I'll start adding sriracha to my oil instead. Help keep the oil pump gears welded together.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    I don't have the measurement itself handy, but it doesn't matter which motor you choose if your upgrading the internals
  44. 1 point
    Thought it might be time to create a build thread on my Territory. It's a 2013 TS Petrol RWD I bought used with only 60,000k's on it. One owner with full service history and well looked after. Anyways, I had a heap of carry over gear from my 2014 G6ET that I didn't part with and had a built FG engine installed in a 2007 TS Territory RWD. Long story short, the SY required a sh*tload of money spent on the body to make it look reasonable which wasn't worth the spend. I parted everything out of it and had it taken to the tip. So, the engine mod list as follows; 2010 FG NA donor engine Spool pistons and conrods Atomic valve springs FG turbo exhaust valves Upgraded oil pump Engine machining etc FG intake and exhaust manifolds GTX3582R Process West FG Stage 2 FMIC Venom 4" dump and 5" cat Custom built stainless exhaust system. Transmission is a stock NA ZF, somehow managing to hold on for now.......
  45. 1 point
    well it already seems like a better tune than your XFT pile of sh*t. nobody wants to hear your bullsh*t anymore
  46. 1 point
    Sorry I’m not on the Aust ford forum. So far my icc is still plugged in as normal and I haven’t touched the main connector. This idea to get the icc display up to the alpine ILX-007 is basic with average results, but it shows the climate controls . And it shows the CD display , which is good as I’m running it into the Alpine via the AUX input. No I haven’t touched the cga.
  47. 1 point
    Deadlifts are my favourite.They work a lot of muscle groups and give you a great pump if you really have a crack.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Sorry to bring up an old thread but I was able to fix my ICC screen after reading thru this. I thought I would attach some photos. My coloured icc screen on my BA kept cutting out turned out to be a cracked solder joint. https://imgur.com/a/LwGRpmn
  50. 1 point
    After nearly 6 months, the wiring is completed and installed in the car. I cannot begin to describe my feeling of joy and relief. I really feel like crying.. I know that some will wonder why it has taken so long. The extended duration was due to my wiring guy having a full time job (At the mines), which involves being away from home. Given my familiarity with these circumstances, it has taken substantially longer than normal. However, the man is absolutely fastidious with his work and I'm sure that when you view the pictures below, you will attest to the wait being justifiable. AS you can see, we cut the harness just past the firewall and added a Motorsport connector. This will allow us to completely disconnect the wiring harness in one spot (Except coils), if engine removal is required. I wish that I'd thought of it the first time around.... We've done the same with the Thermocouple amplifiers to allow for ease of removal/installation. Note that they amplifiers are not yet installed into the engine management compartment and that they will be mounted on top of thew wideband and I/O expander modules... So, the beast has been fired, but we had a small trigger issue. It seems to be losing it's home(Can't remember exact term).. We'll put it on a scope and suss it out...
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