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So yeah the money wasting continues... After spending nearly 10k between the trans and the water meth kit, the car lasted about 3 weeks before the oil pump exploded it's *beep* all through the timing cover and sump. This round of stuff I've ordered to get it up and running again lists thusly; Horse Power Junkie High Volume Barra Billet Oil Pump Atomic Heavy Duty Posi-Stop Barra DOHC Timing Chain Tensioner Atomic Barra Heavy Duty Timing Chain Atomic (Barra BA-FGX) Atomic billet steel crankshaft sprocket Atomic Solid Checking Lifter - Ford DOHC 6 Cylinder, DOHC V8 and V10 DOHC Modular Engine Dyno-Mite Performance BA-FGX Barra Fire Ring Gasket Kit in 39 thou Atomic Roller Rocker Set The billet crank is gonna have to wait cos I ain't made of money. Also gonna order bearings once the motor is apart cos I might not even need them, but also it might have farked a crank pin in which case I'll be using a ten under crank I have here. Will drop the head off to fix the cam journal and a quick skim and also pick up some strong ass acid to clean the cams. Gonna re-ring it while it's apart and close the second ring gap a teeny tiny bit from 28 down to 26 thou, leave the top at 22. Should help a little with blow by....maybe?! Anyway enough waffle, more updates will come eventually.

I’ve been using the M/T oil pumps lately and they’re an amazing bit of billet ! If you want one Nathan I can sharpen that price up by a touch

Grabbed my 1st real Leatherman. Bloody impressive piece of kit. Got the extra bit kit for it so should come in very handy.

@bjc, it ain't my money you spend what your budget allows haha

If you're looking to push more power in the future, and you plan to add more pump and stuff, you're gonna need an fpr anyway. So, if its on sale now I'd get it now. that's my 2 cents anyway 😂

A 460 on stock wiring and reg can be tuned around, the way the pcm works it will take care of it anyway, even if it's not tuned...but it ain't recommended lol. Don't waste time drilling a stock reg, a direct fit only cost a few hundred clams anyway. The sensor will go in place of the gauge in the reg. They are handy but experience can also tell you when fuel pressure is dropping.

So I'm back with version 2 of tracking the b series. wodonga is quite a demanding track on cars (so im told) and we mostly ran 10 minutes on track then 30 minutes rest all day. added a few things: - project mu type HC front pads with 600 series racing fluid - advan ad08r semi slicks - whiteline adjustible swaybars (whiteline links, soft front hard rear) - factory plastic undertray (best 50$ I ever spent) - vented bonnet overall, we knocked about 2.3 or so seconds of the previous best, even taking a 1s off the pb in the warmup session. I'd say I expected a bit more from the tyres. I know its a heavy car, but the other people I was lapping with commented that it looked like a handful. I ran them at about 35psi hot which is what I'd gathered from others using this tyre. I think at this point its my bad driving technique holding the tyre back, I had quite a lot of trouble being brave enough to carry enough speed into the corners. coolant and intake temperatures were better (mostly due to the undertray) but I still struggled with coolant going above the half way point on the gauge unless I ran the car with the heaters and fans on. intake temperatures stayed between 30 and 35, which given it was about 25c and mad sunny maybe isnt too awful. sway bars I am a *big* fan of. running hard rear has kept it from introducing any understeer, but the whole car feels a lot tighter and able to change direction in S bends. now onto the problems, some new some old. - diff overheating - power steering boiled, pump possibly hurt, reservoir leaking fluid - coolant header tank must have cracked, spraying small amounts of coolant around the engine bay and underside of the bonnet. - at least one (probably more) turbo or manifold bolt has shot out. I can hear a gigantic exhaust leak on spool, or my brand new turbo is cooked. diff overheating I expected, it happened last time and I didnt get the time to do anything but replace the oil with syntrax. from reading nelsonians threads, all I can think is running a better diff oil and adding a catch can. power steering is a totally new problem, I've never had that issue before. it appeared towards the end of the day as my ps reservoir having pissed fluid out from the cap. opened it up, and the fluid has expanded right up to the top of the reservoir and is thin as water. pump has started whining *badly* a lot but ive still got steering assist for now, was able to drive it home. unsure what to do for this, I can try to find a higher temperature ps fluid and maybe a cooler? Also I cant be sure, but I'm slightly suspicious that adding venting to my bonnet may have removed some airflow from the power steering reservoir. coolant header tank, I'm guessing that its just a heat problem and I should replace it with something made of metal. turbo I'd pull heat shields off and try to find whats missing. this car has had a habit of losing turbo to manifold studs very regularly, but all I can say with the heat shield on is that its not the front 2 studs. vids probably arent much interest to anyone but me, but this is a low 1:02 compared to the previous best of a mid 1:04 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIwdVcLSZ3E

Yo yo puffy yeah Port Lincoln again... potentially looking for a place here (part time house not full time) 😮🥰 after all, this is like our 5th time here ... this year LOL Had both solar and Pool guys out to quote our place on Friday so we what those come back as hopefully early this week... how you going?

Afternoon keifffy and everyone

Yeah had a bacon and egg sandwich for breaky with beers to wash it down.

Good to hear you got it sorted @Tom Tucker

Oh, and the timing issues was a dead phaser

haha poor puff... on two counts

Just did another workout that included squats. Legs were sore to start with and sore now. Should be all good in a couple of weeks.

Change your coolant every 20,000km. You gotta remove the pipe from the thermostat housing, clean the fark out of the pipe and the thermostat housing, replace the green o-ring that seals the pipe to the thermostat housing and reassemble it.

yes, you can.

I'm really keen to see how these perform behind a barra. Please keep us in the loop with your conversion @adams355!!!! Also, wtf is a "GCU"

I'm putting one in, in 6 months. Have all the parts sorted, biggest cost is standalone GCU. There is a mob in England already doing the conversion plate for the barra. Will need base maps and tuning some is supplied. Main wiring harness is supplied. I will be using the ZF8HP75 rated to 750nm but apparently these things are very strong and will handle much more stock and have a larger and stronger input shaft. Cost is just under 5k if you can do most of it. Which is cheaper than a zf6 re build these days. The boxes are identical in dimensions.

Pretty much what puff said. Our running theory is that someone cooked the motor of the car, did a home job to fix it with wrecker parts. Basically, slap it back together so that it runs as you'd expect then sell it to a dealer. How is the dealer to know the rods were replaced kinda thing. So yea, brother took real good care of the car, and once he started doing fifo he saved up for Monsta Torques stage 2 package with a few extra bits and bobs, namely an f6 turbo (gt3582) and screamer. Seeing as no one knew of the motors issue, Rob tuned it like he would any FG turbo (they came with stronger rods compared to BA). Car lasted about 3 weeks before he bent a rod. Bit of sticky situation, like is it the dealers fault? How can you blame them for the car when its not something they check. We pondered going to dealer with this but it would have ended with more drama than it was worth. But anyway, to lighten the mood. Done 780km of the 1500km rob has requested. I've taken possession of the car for the week to do more run-in stuff, A bit difficult to do what he is requesting in traffic for my brother when he drives to work. I can annoy the local industrial area with the screamer without any worry 🤣

Put a barra in it

I'd believe if I saw it...

Picked up my brothers car for him on friday from MT. Fitted with MT Stage 3 (I think?) built motor and a pulsar 3584 after cooking his stock one, think I've mentioned the whole story about this on the forum somehwere before but I'll do a sentence recap for anyone curious. FG mk2 turbo bought from dealer, turns out had rods replaced with BA rods then traded in, got tuned with bigger turbo, rodney came knocking, went back to MT, here we are now. Motor is going through Robs run-in process. He had already done the bedding in process on the dyno. Has to do 1,500kms then goes in for a tune. The car is unbelievably smooth. I was so blown away at just how smooth it was when driving it. There is not a single vibration, felt like driving a tesla just about 🤣 Currently limited to 5k rpm. Placing bets on how long his poor stock zf is gonna last with the new power plant lol, it is next on the list for an upgrade though. He has gifted me the gt3582 that was on the car previously. Will be going on the car once I have the funds to do it 🤣

after getting chopped id leave it in storage too

Installed a Superpro rear swaybar under the ute and my God does it work! Carrying my full ton of gear with a higher than usual centre of gravity it holds the ass end way flatter. Made custom the chassis brackets as the ones supplied were too long and would clash with the spring bracket. But definitely worth the 8 months it took to get one lol

Pat, have a look in the Vic section, cruise section under the Alpine cruise thread. Rusty Adam and I did a recky for a upcoming cruise and he got a flat. So we put my full size 18" and well the fun started. His is an FG though. But worth a read if your interested mate.