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Da fruck you say 🤯

Got the wall part of it finished at least, pretty happy with how it turned out. Now I just need to get rid of the crap I dug out, dig out the hedge, backfill to level, re-plant the hedge and fingers crossed keep them alive, additional new plants and mulch, probably some sort of feature lighting, then try to coax the lawn back to life. Then there's new sandstone letterbox pillars & garden edging elsewhere in the front yard....back yard is a different project, pics to come of that sometime as well

Happy Australia Day weekend ya karnts [emoji13]

New diff gears showed up Friday, just need someone to fit them. Might have to pull the diff out and send it away, not real confident on building a diff myself. Don't need the 2nd hand diff I brought 4 months ago haha Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Happy Straya day legends

Drinks, posts, does skids. Actually uses the forum. Also bowdens and drinks again.

Recent developments... A couple of months back the ute refused to start, cranked over happily but but that's it. I was at work and short on time so I just drove the work truck home and back. A day or so later I tried again and it started first time, idled fine, like nothing was wrong. A week or so later it did it again - I left it, tried again next morning and again it started first go, no sign of any issue. Obviously this was going to keep happening but being flat out at work I didn't have the time to focus on it, and just didn't drive it anywhere other than home/work and back. Having the truck is a luxury, driving a Hino can be fun in wet weather....but that's another story lol When it happened the third time I left it again, but next couple of days - no go, she'd run out of patience obviously... The ebay spec 460 pump has always been at the back of my mind, and at 5yrs old I was half expecting it to give me issues at some point. I couldn't hear it priming, so checked current at the relay, all good. I pulled the tub liner and rails out - literally takes about 5min these days - and since I'd previously cut the forward floor panel I had easy access to the pump connections. I couldn't get a proper reading at the pump but given I'm at not quite up to kindergarten level of electrical it wasn't out of the question I was the weak link... Got an auto sparky who we do some work for to drop past and verdict was the pump, but also pointed out the discolouration at the module connection and how pissy the module wiring looked. Since I'd bought it as a drop-in unit I found the OEM pot - luckily I'd kept it - and although the pot design is virtually identical, connectors look better quality and the wiring is a larger gauge, so decided to drag it into service. I got a new genuine 460 through MTQ Sydney - can't fault these guys, Adam has looked after me very well with service and pricing over the years - as well as new convoluted e85 rated hoses from Joe at CMS. The pot and pump connectors don't match so I got a new Ford pattern quick connector to fit to the pump wiring. The one thing I did use from the ebay pot was the intermediate section which actually holds the pump - it still had the pump locator tabs intact whereas I'd managed to snap them off the Ford unit at some point. It fitted fine between the upper and lower sections of the genuine pot. I then got a manual syphon pump and sucked out the 15L or so of e85 in the tank. Being 8+ weeks old, with over a week of only rags stuffed in the pump opening and a bit of board over the top, plus a few rainy days - no way I was going to be running on it. I dropped the pot back in, emptied a 20L jerry of fresh 98 into the tank and changed over to the 98 tune. That all done, turned the key and boo yah she fired. Seemed to be running ok, but there was a fuel system fault on the dash, plus a '0 to empty' warning. Dammit, probably the sender. Turned it back off, and pulled the pot out yet again, disconnected and re-connected the sender which looked fine, and put it back in. Turned the key but all she said was ‘click-click’. As the ute had been sitting there for a bit and I'd tried starting numerous times I wasn't overly surprised about the battery; I used the yard crane battery to jump start it and left it running for a good 20 min or so while I did something else. When I came back to it a charge fail warning was up, and after I turned the ute off it wouldn’t start again. Next day I pulled the battery out and charged it on the Projecta IC1000 battery charger we have at work. To my uneducated eyes this seems to be a top unit, has seven stages of charging including 'reconditioning' and a whole lot of other features. I didn’t bother fully charging it, just left it there for about an hour or so on the 10A setting and then had another go. Same deal, would run at first but eventually ‘charge fail’ would poke its head up again. Meanwhile the fuel system fault and 0 to empty warnings were still there. Alternator? Thread results from a hit on the trusty search button agreed with me, so I placed an order for a genuine replacement from Adelaide Parts who generally have the best pricing for genuine Ford stuff on ebay. I then removed the alternator, visually it looked in pretty poor shape with plenty of crap in it. Since blue nugget no.2 is currently in bits, and will be pushing a fair extra whack of power over no.1, I decided to steal its alternator for no.1 and it can score the new one when it turns up. I fitted up the 'new' alternator to no.1, and once the battery had a full charge in it, I tried again – charge fail warning gone. #winning This was yesterday arvo, I drove it home and back to work this morning; all good except for the bloody annoying fuel level/system warnings. Plan this afternoon is to a) try get a current reading on the sender wiring and if all good then b) get the pump module out yet again and try swapping the pot base over for the ebay one since the float pivots are different, and I never had the issue before the pump died. Anyone still reading and want to throw their 2c in, please do…

Hey all, Stopped by to say I finally made the Club. 309rwKW (414rwHP). With the all the mods I have installed for 2 years now I finally had some free time and money to take the car with Dump and Injectors to Real Dyno to get them to throw them in and tuner her up. Very happy to say the least with the Car, the Tuner(Lee @ Real Dyno is a bloody legend) and the PCMtec Tuning software and what it can do. I'm amazed at how the car drives, the extra power and the features the PCMTec allows. 4 maps, Low Boost (10psi) High Boost (14-15psi), Boost y Gear and Valet. The fact you can change between the tunes while driving and the car doesn't miss a beat is amazing for a factory ECU. Car also runs smoother than it is ever has since I have owned it. Shift heaps faster and harder, and from initial early testing even seems to be a bit more efficient when granny driving. Stop and Steer MODS: SuperPro Diff Bushings (all) DBA T3 4000 series rotors (F&R) Forza Street/Track Pads (front) ProjectMu HC800 pads (rear) Whiteline adjustable swaybars (F&R) OZ racing coilovers (BC Racing re-brand) Falken FT510's all (F&R) Engine & Trans MODS: ZF Service and new factory F6 Heat Exchanger KPM Street Fighter stock location intake Intune Intake muffler delete Intune Braided Oil feed with inline filter TurboSmart Dual port BOV Nizpro Big Big 1000HP Intercooler and Piping Xforce 4" Dump (wrapped) and HF 5" CAT to stock exhaust ID1000's Injectors PCMTec 4 Map Multi-Tune w/ ZF Tune Results: 414rwHP @ 5029 RPM (309rwKW) and 450ftlb @ 3791 RPM (610nm) Lee mentioned it would of likely made more but is was 32°C and 80% Humidity in the dyno cell. So I am stoked! The car ran a 13.04 @ 106MPH stock on el-cheapo tyres. I hope to run an very low 12 maybe a 11.99 on a cold winter night now is time to enjoy the car have some fun at the track start saving for a new turbo and a e85 Flex tune and setup.

Hey Guys, Travis from Hammond Engineering here. I haven't been on these forums since like 2010 when I got rid of my FG XR6T Ute 🤣 I feel like I may have been misrepresented earlier in this thread, but that's the internet for you The reason I've popped in here is that I'm nearly done with another batch of thermostat housings. This time they're the -16AN style, that will be available with an optional screw on barb to take a standard radiator hose. (see rendering below) (Note: the barb will not point down at the same angle as the original housing) If anyone is interested hit me up on my Facebook page www.hammeng.com Final pricing still to be confirmed, but they should be a bit cheaper than the previous style do to them being easier to manufacture. Cheers, Trav

Hey @Callum1998 Gen 1 GTX3582’s are a 64mm wheel Gen 2 GTX3582’s are a 66mm wheel Gen 1’s are supposed to have 10% better power and efficiency over GT3582’s Gen 2’s are supposed to have 10% again on top of Gen1’s real world figures I have seen and personally tuned are very similar combos Vehicle/mods wise and 480rwkw on 21.5psi for Gen1 and 500rwkw on 21.8psi for Gen 2 The GTX3584rs is a unique 1000hp rated turbocharger when combined with Garrett’s rear SS housing in Vband configuration. That said I’ve just had a customer come in with a GCG GTX3584rs that they specifically fit the T3 5 bolt XR6T rear housing on in 1.15..... spool rate was junk and the turbine “Artec” housings are pure Sheetttttt ! I have worked in with him to go a custom modified Factory FG 1.06 5 bolt XR6T turbine housing to suit the unique RS rear wheel. This is available in Internal gate with my custom 39mm port & flapper combo or External Gate but off of the manifold I will be tuning this on Tuesday and it’s a very similar car combo as mentioned above so results will be interesting but all vehicles had factory FG engines so I won’t be going to crazy with it in regards to power. Hopefully I can nail the top end power figure 500rwkw but on slightly less boost would be nice. Yes it’s an expensive exercise but it is what it is for quality ! if you need anything buzz me a PM IWG 39mm 84rs modified External WG RS modified

C'mon k31th, everybody is looking for more power

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Yep can't wait John, got the transmission home last night. Got the engine ready to go just waiting for the converter to get here. Painted the rocker cover wrinkle red, turned out pretty good I think. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Booked Spirit of Tassie for Melbourne-Devonport Wed 4 Mar 7:30pm and coming back on Devonport-Melbourne Wed 11 Mar 7:30pm Discussed with @YLD127 and @Rab I also booked a 4 bed cabin each way - so Rab is going to share that with me. Leaves 2 other beds available if anyone going across and coming back same dates. I chose those dates cos they were the least expensive fares - either side the fares are more (varies differently). That means if you want to book on those dates and there's still room left in the cabin - just book the recliner option which is $0 as your "seat" on the boat over. There will be linen and towels enough for 4 people in the cabin. Just beware though - both Rab and I are chronic snorers - so bring your ear plugs Just need to sort out the itinerary now so we know where to book the accomodation! Thinking Rab and I will spend some time around Launceston and the gorge area on the first day Thursday - that way we can be nearby to meet YLD127 on Friday morning Anyone else interested in those dates?

Stop leaving such big 11s everywhere then Roland and the engine wont be struggling as much 🤣

Frozen mango margaritas as well [emoji106]

hmm... would be best to speak to your engine builder about what might be occurring, if I were you.

Omg 27 degree pool.... be right there!

So the balancer is either not up to the job or there’s and engine balance problem? The car does see high rpm regularly

getting set up for another 9:30 bed time?

cant beat the Escort with built in GPS. I have one in all my fast cars.

This ? M140 3.0 TT straight 6 with ZF 8 speed flappy paddle Tuned one on Tuesday went 215rwkw to 245rwkw tune only and weighs around 1500kg

Or you could put another one in. There was a guy on aff who could edit them. Get one from the Wreckers and send it off to be set up as yours it with the km and all.

Closest town is 430km's away and with my old eyes about a $1.40 keeps me pain free

True this. Yep, looks like the speaker or driver in the cluster has completely died. No noise at all 😕 I feel a tech doc coming 🤦‍♂️

fully synthetic oil since I bought her with 40K on the clock changed every 7.5K as per the service manual

BCB for mod lol

a trio of wax

now you're just getting technical I was being generic with saying "polishing" to encompass any post-wash treatments.

probably gets a decent polishing and servicing schedule to keep it happy

I love my limmo It's been my dayly for 5 years now I've done over 100k and has never missed a beat [emoji106]

haha well, all falcons qualify, I guess... but it's more a limo, like you said

I think it might be something to do with the fact your car is a beast?

sounds like an epic tale of troubleshooting... good job on sorting the alternator. Such a shame that was the issue rather than the pump connector/wiring/etc which has seemingly caused the pump to fail. not sure about the fuel sender thing-o-majiggy in the utes, so can't help you with specifics there...

Yeah I did see some conflicting review, but from what I could see all the bad reviews were quite long ago, everything I have seen lately have only been positive. Maybe there has been a change of ownership or tuners? from my personal experience everything has only been positive

Nice work mate Based on accounts on this forum, RDP has been pretty hit and miss over the years, good to hear some positive feedback

very nice work on getting it finally into the club should turn a tyre on wet grass now, for sure

Speaker in the cluster. No relays on the board big enough to click. Source - Changed all the smd leds when I had a bf. Because to tight to get an xr speedo back then lol

Dw fella, freaky is a wee bit of a fàrktard. He even returned his Ute to kinda stock. Not quite right that.

On a client site today. Someone tried to roast nuts in the microwave and burned them. Threw them in the bin, which promptly caught fire... [emoji23]

That looks actual goodness

morning all, happy Wednesday

If any of you don't watch ama Supercross then you should. 250 main was insane and Jett Lawrence is a Australian which makes it awesome to watch.

Watching the grand tour Is rather amusing Then China steps in

Looking good Mick, bet you cant wait to have it back on the road though.

For those using the search function; Tarp and rods 3 kg Tray and tailgate liner 20.5kg Tailgate 15kg Tub 132kg Tub braces 5kg Total around 175kg

So, Yesterday I took my car to Bayswater autos to get Phil to rebuild my box. I blew my planatry's again. I've been working with Phil on a series of cars perfecting the mods required to make these box's hold the power, It seems we still keep coming back to these plantery's. I've attached awhole serious of youtube video clips for those who wanna know whats involved inside of the 4speed box. Although I did not capture every single detail, I think these following series of videos demonstrate the box. First of all, this is what blown plantery's sound like in locked first gear (Turn your sound up) First of all removing the valve body Removing the BA Oil pump drive, and removing the main assembly from the gearbox. You also see the rear section of the assembly removed seperately, and on closer inspection of the sun gears(which mesh into the planterys), have damage on them. You also see the Band removed (which is used on 2nd and 4th gear), showing it slightly burnt, Although my 1st to 2nd gear shifting was still excelant. Keep in mind, this still has the factory servo in place. This one is removing the Plantery/Sprag assembly. Although not clear in the video, there is damage to the plantery gears in form of the hardening coming off, and you actually see the remaining part of a gear tooth fall into Phils hands. This shows damage to the annulus gear which is what takes the power from the plantery to the output shaft This shows how the outputshaft/annulus gear sits on the planterys inside the box This shows the C1 clutch, which is used in 3rd gear and 4th gear. Given the state of the clutches shows that our modifications to the box actually held up quite nicely, the clutches WERE re-usable. Although I had mine replaced. This shows the C3 clutch disassembly. This is used in Reverse. The condition of these clutches were basically Brand new. This shows the disassembly of the C3 piston apply. basically the oil builds up behind the clutch pack, and squeeses the frictions which are toothed to the inside shaft, to the steel plates, which are toothed to the outside drum, Causing a 1 to 1 relationship in motion. The reason the C3 clutch was disassembled was to detach the sungear (this was replaced as a set with the plantery set, since it was damaged. This shows the re-installation of the One Way Clutch/Sprag, Plantery Set, and Annulus/Output shaft. Installation of a new band Reassembly of the C1 clutch, and installation of the intermediate shaft(used in 3rd gear) Reassembly of the C3 clutch, and installation of the main assembly into the case. This shows disassembly of the BA oil pump drive. Although my box was rebuild previously using the same oil pump drive as before, We no longer do that, Instead we fit a PRE-BA oil pump drive. The main reason is that the BA oil pump drive is not bushed, and during high rpms(read:thrashing), the pump somewhat resonates and the outer ring eats into the pump housing, causing presure loss. I took photos, but they are somewhat hard to make out Here is a comparison picture of a BA oil pump on the right, and a AU oil pump on the left. Notice the inner ring on the AU pump has a bush bearing, which keeps it running true on the shaft it sits on, where as the BA one on the right does not, and you can already see the rather odd wearing pattern on the inside (hense the angle of this shot). You can also see the housing on the right which is what the BA pump sits in. Since I changed my Oil pump drive, I've got a tempory Stanard AU convertor in my car. My convertor has been sent off to get the snout modified (look at the oil pump drive differences in the centre), and I'm also getting the stall speed altered higher again for drag racing purposes. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask me here. I've learnt a hell of a lot about these boxes since I've been playing with them with phil over the last few years. Although the box's are relatively standard builds, there are valvebody modification, and various modiciations to some of the moving parts Danny.

looks somewhat similar I never saw the front of it though