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  1. 30 points
    Well boys. I now officially have the quickest FG Turbo in Australia. 9.99@138.8. It's definitely got more in her. Full street trim and only jack and spare tyre removed. Thanks to Nizpro who now have another ZF into the 9's. I can't believe I have a 9 sec daily.
  2. 26 points
    Modding your FG: Everyday I see either on the Facebook or the Forums, How do I make X amount of KW or how do I get into 11s or 10s Or will this component get me too Y power level. So this is a basic guide on what engine mods you should be doing to get the most power efficiently. I'm not going to Definitively say this will get you 400kw or even 300kw but I will say when things start needing replacement. Before I begin a few things: All statements and information contained within may or may not be up to date and all opinions are solely my own and not those of the forum administrators/moderators/advertisers. There isn't actually a one size fits all guide to mods. Everyone wants something different in their cars and every mod you do will be a compromise in Performance, Economy, Cost, Noise, Functionality, Etc. Future Proofing your mods is incredibly important. Do it once, Do it properly. I've learned this the hard way. The most important performance Mod you can do is select a good tuner, Just because you've seen a video on youtube of them tuning a high HP car or they sell flash tuner and injector packages on Ebay doesn't necessarily mean they know what they are doing. Do your Research. New products are always coming out onto the market just because I haven't listed them here doesn't mean they aren't any good, Once again do your research and learn if the product is right for you. Lastly, I'm no mechanic or tuner. Im just an enthusiast with a love for the Barra and have spent hours upon hours researching and learning about these beautiful machines and if I can help anyone along the way then it'll be well worth it. Stage 0 Start off with doing a full service. A good quality Engine oil, Oil Filter, Air filter, Fuel Filter, Spark plugs (pregapped to tuner specifications) and Coils if required. Check all your other fluids and service accordingly. If fitted with a ZF it is also advisable to flush and service the ZF if around the 100xxx kms as this will extend the life of the gearbox and to prepare it for modifications. **Please note that the factory ZF heat exchanger is very prone to failure and should be replaced as soon as possible, Think of it like an insurance policy that's going to significantly reduce the chance of gearbox failure. Most common is the PWR heat exchanger. These are usually preferred because the ZF likes to be at a certain operating temperature which the heat exchanger can do more efficiently. Straight air to Transmission fluid coolers also work well and when fitted with a functioning thermostat and fan do the job nicely and totally eliminate the risk of the ZF Milkshake. Factory ZF Heat Exchanger -> Aftermarket Air to Fluid Cooler-> PWR Heat Exchanger fitted --> If fitted with a TR6060 this is also a great time to refresh the trans fluid and flush and bleed the clutch system. Stage 1 Flash Tuner Most places tune with SCT and this requires a handheld flash tuner. If your workshop tunes with SCT you must buy one as its what actually writes the files to the ecu from the tuner. Some tuners use software like HP Tuners which doesn't require a flash tuner which can save on the total cost. SCT currently has more parameters however HP is becoming increasingly popular and more parameters will becoming available has time progresses. Neither is better than the other, Just different ways of tuning. Fuel Injectors These are the first bottle neck in the pursuit of power, They are a 440cc unit and typically run out of flow in the 275rwkw region. Once again some have seen more with them others have found they run out before this so If your going to be modding this is a good place to start. The two main aftermarket options for the 6T are Injector Dynamics and KPM 1000cc injectors. Both brands of injectors have excellent idling and flow characteristics and have seen 450rwkw on E85 in several cars. There are many other options available like 60lb Dekkas and 80lb Siemens however these injectors are outdated. They can be used but not recommended especially if your planning on going E85 or 400+kw. Intercooling (Johnny Tig vs PW Stepped) The factory intercooler may have seen a power run of 300rwkw but it wont be able to do it again. The factory intercooler heat soaks quiet badly. Yes including the F6 one. The factory piping also has a tendency to leak or burst when boost is raised from factory pressures so it needs to be replaced. The Process west stage 1 cooler, Plaz 800hp and HDI kit are all good for 300+ and "Bolt On" but as I said above it's always a good idea to future proof as all will begin to struggle especially in the summer months with heat soak. The Process west Stage 3, Plaz 1800hp and The big Johnny Tig kit will outlast your wallet when it comes to how much power these units can handle. Do it once, Do it properly comes to mind again. I'll go into the differences briefly: Bar & Plate (Heavier, Holds more heat but sturdier) Vs Tube & Fin (Lighter, Better heat transfer but easier to damage) Black (Removes heat better when static) Vs Polished (Removes heat better while in motion) Process West use Bar & Plate while Plazmaman and Johnny Tig Use Tube & Fin Exhaust The standard FG Turbo exhaust is 3 inch the whole way. The first restriction is the Catalytic Converter. Venom make a widely used "Bolt on" cat which can go into 300s with correct supporting mods and tune however as we increase power demand the rest of standard exhaust becomes the restriction starting with the dump pipe. Xforce make a 4inch dump and cat that can "Bolt up" to the factory cat back Is an improvement however this will really begin to increase back pressure and cause a restriction the higher you go. A full system is not that much more expensive than a Dump and Cat which is why most people go down that route. Either 4inch dump and cat into a 3 1/2 inch Cat back or 4inch all the way are both popular choices and both have seen into the 450rwkw plus territory without too many dramas. Xforce, Nizpro or Custom seem to be the way most people go. People have had some issues with fitment with both brands mentioned so an Exhaust shop is highly recommended or have the appropriate tools/machinery. Stage 1 Final Thoughts So if you get a good Exhaust, Injectors, Intercooler and Piping and a good tune it has been shown to go 300rwkw and 11 second 1/4 mile times have been achieved. On an F6 this is even easier with the upgraded turbo. This is a good place to start and getting to learn how to drive these things. Once you get started its hard to stop so with that in mind. Beyond Stage 1 After those first basic mods it becomes all about preference and what you really want from your Barra but keep in mind you always need the correct supporting mods Ie if you buy a Huge turbo you want get any power out of it if you don't upgrade your fuel pumps to suit. So with that in mind... Fuel Delivery The Fuel pump on the Fg is good for around Mid 300rwkw on 98, Some have seen (My car personally) 350 rwkw on E85. But some have failed at much much less so its always a good insurance policy to change them out anyway. The most common kit is the walbro 460. Relatively cost effective, Suits E85 and can go 400rwkw+ on E85. If your wanting even greater flow KPM and AI do Twin intank fuel pumps with either twin 300lph or twin walbro 460s both E85 compatible and can go into the 500rwkw mark. These systems are both still relatively new to the market and have been some issues with fuel lines around the pump failing with E85 however reports of these failing haven't been heard of for a while know. External surge tanks have also been used and are also good for supplying 500rwkw cars utilising Walbro 460s, Bosch 044s etc and have been proven fairly reliable. However they can be very noisy, Relatively complicated and have legality issues as externally mounted fuel systems can be illegal depending on where you live. One final consideration is the Bosch 044 is not rated for continuous E85 usage where as the Walbro and KPM is. The fg Fuel rail has been used to 450rwkw plus. If planning on going 500rwkw a Fuel rail upgrade will be required. However the factory rail will suffice for most applications Intake The Fg intake system is fairly unrestrictive compared to the BA/F but as you climb closer and closer to the 400rwkw bracket it becomes a restriction. An intake muffler delete adds extra sound however it hasn't been proven to add power. Cutting a hole in the factory air box has been done with moderate amounts of success and has been used on a car with 400rwkw. Cold Air Intakes like Herrod and KPM do look nice and add some extra sound haven't been proven to be big power adders either. The main restriction in the intake is the factory crossover itself. Removing that with a turbo side intake and battery relocation kit allows the engine to breath alot easier but be warned a turbo side is incredibly loud compared to the standard setup. Lots and lots of turbo noise. One thing to consider with Turbo side intakes is to try and stay with the maker of the intercooler kit as Process West intercooling piping may not line up with a Plazmaman turbo side or visa versa. The Intake Plenum in the fg is far better designed than the BA/F and has gone 450rwkw+ with ease however is going beyond 500 the plenum can be upgraded with most people opting for custom plenums. Turbo Upgrades This will probably be the most political topic on here but we will start with the very basics Here is the specs on the FG XR6-T T04S/GT35R: Compressor cover: .50 A/R. Compressor wheel: T04S/T04B. Inducer 53mm, Major 76mm. 7+7 Bladed Cast wheel. Turbine Wheel: GT35R. Major 68mm, Exducer 62mm. Turbine housing: GT35R. 1.06 A/R Here is the specs on the FG F6 GT35R: Compressor Cover: .50 A/R Compressor Wheel: GT35R. Inducer 61.4mm, Major 82.0mm 6+6 Bladed Cast wheel. Turbine Wheel: GT35R. Major 68mm, Exducer 62mm. Turbine Housing: GT35R. 1.06 A/R So as you can see the Standard FG turbos cold side is smaller than the f6 but the hot side is the same. However as you do your upgrades proper boost control will be necessary. Totally unmodified FG turbos have gone into the 350rwkw however to push any higher than that or boost issues are occuring modifications may need to be done such as actuator upgrades, Porting of the waastegate and bigger flappers fitted. The standard FG runs out of puff roughly at around 320rwkw on petrol and 360rwkw on E85. The f6 Turbo begins to run out at around 370rwkw on 98 and 410 on E85 with correct supporting mods. There are plenty of "bolt on" options for turbo upgrades for the Barra and here are just a few. Upgrading the cold side. GTX3576r, GTX3582r And GTX3584r complete cold sides can be bought and fitted to either turbos above. These turbos mimic the specs as those turbos. This is a relatively cheap alternative compared to a brand new outright turbo. Places on ebay like mamba or kinugawa have been used with success by forum members but professionally fitting/balancing is recommended. GTX3576R: Ridiculous spool, Has seen mid 400rwkws on E85. This is the turbo for someone whom loves the standard turbos 'punch' GTX3582R: A fair bit laggier than the standard FG turbo but can get mid to high 400rwkws out of it. Was the go to turbo but becoming outdated GTX3584R: Similar to the GTX3582R however by Mamba not Garrett and has a T04Z 11 Blade billet wheeled cold side PTE6235: Spools a little later than the GTX3576R but has been getting more power than the gtx3582R PTE6466: New kid on the block, Spools a little later than the 6235 but has been into the 500rwkw zone. Also water lines need blocking MTA750: Similar to the GTX3582r MTA900: Bigger than the MTA750 so a fair bit laggier however has run into the 9s There are plenty more T3 footed turbos not mentioned and countless others available if going aftermarket exhaust manifolds. The Borg Warner EFR series turbos get a notable mention however the people who use them are fairly secretive on their setups and are very expensive. Valve Springs The standard FG valve springs are very hit and miss some lasting in the 350rwkw + stage and some needing to be changed straight away. Valve springs themselves don't add power but they are necessary if you begin to get valve float Speak to your tuner and find out what they recommend. Final Thoughts With any modifications your going to cause stress on the drive line. The ZFs aren't happy above 350rwkw and clutches in the tr6060s start to slip at that level as well. Don't Forget too you'll need to be able to stop so invest in a decent set of pads, discs and lines and that'll make your trips much safer. To all of you who made it this far thanks for reading Happy modding and leave any questions/comments below.
  3. 21 points
    Hi guys. Took the long drive to Heathcote today. Managed a PB of 10.36@141.73. My 60 foot was crap all day. 1.72 60 foot:(.Had trouble with traction sometimes first 3 gears but always first 2 gears. She has definitely got a 9 in her. It was quite hot out there today and ran in the left lane every time for those that think the right lane gives a higher mph. I enjoyed passing the 11sec cars on trailers on the way back to Melb with my satnav, aircon on and my kid in the car. Thanks to Simon,Dave and Blake at Nizpro for all their hard work and support. Car and gearbox felt stong all day.
  4. 20 points
    FG XR6 Turbo - First Round Mods: 290-330rwkw range "The internal combustion engine is an engine in which the combustionof a fuel(normally a fossil fuel) occurs with an oxidizer (usually air) in a combustion chamber" –wikipedia Now the Golden Rule is: The more fuel and air you can safely force into an engine the more power you will make. The key word here is "safely" and although there is risk involved in taking any engine above stock power there are nurmerous ways to minimise this risk. Having said that, below you will find details on the most common way to get your FG XR6 Turbo to around 290-330rwkw and beyond. *Note this is just a guide, feel free to do your own research. Modifying your 08-11 FG XR6 Turbo to 290-330RWKW Approx CPU When modifying your XR6 Turbo the first thing you will need is a Flash Tuner. This is the device that is used to "tweak" the cars factory cpu in order to updrgrade performance. These can range from $500 to $1000, one of the main Flash tuners used at the moment is the X3 Flash tuner seen below *Please note the X1Flash tuner is now obsolete and should be avoided. Injectors The factory injectors are one of the first limiting factors on the FG 's being good for only around 250rwkw max, these will need to be upgraded pretty much straight away not only to increase power but also as a safety precaution to prevent the engine from leaning out due to lack of fuel supply. Two common brands are the Siemens 60lb injectors and the Bosch 968's both around the $350 mark and good for around 350rwkw's. Valve Springs Although valve springs arn't really a performance modification as such they are an important safety measure when trying to make more power. The FG XR6 Turbos have acquired the upgraded HD valve springs from the F6 engines so they should be ok at this level, SHOULD being the operative word. But again these are really just cheap insurance rather then another unnecessary cost so if you got the funds it would be worth upgrading to some stronger Atomic or Nizpro springs.And for around $400 it's allot cheaper then a new engine. Fuel Pump Ok back to performance mods and back to the golden rule. To make more power you need higher volumes of fuel pumped into your engine which means a bigger fuel pump. Quite simple really. The FG fuel pumps should be ok at this leavel, Most tuners agreeing that they can flow enough fuel to max out the stock turbo. But if you want to upgrade the WALBRO GSS series seems to be one of the most common used and is around the $130 mark. Ported Wastegate and Bigger Flapper The stock FG turbo is good for around 320rwkw before it runs out of puff. Porting the waste gate and installing a bigger flapper might not be necessary but will bring boost need down and help your turbo spool quicker so you might want to ask your tuner what they think before going ahead.This should cost you around $600 change over not including installation. Actuator The actuator is used to control boost levels produced by the turbo and to prevent over boosting. You should base the size of your actuator on how much boost you wish to run. High Flow Cat The FG exhaust has been designed pretty well and is almost able to flow enough to make your 320rwkw's, the only thing limiting it's potential is the factor catalytic converter. Replacing this with a high flow 100cpi (cells per square inch) will free up the exhaust and has been proven enough to make290-330rwkw's(Obviously a full exhaust would be better but that's later on) Inter-cooler Piping The FG intercooler piping is of a much better design then the old B series layout however there is a down side, it's been commonly known to pop or crack once boost level is raised even slightly. Unfortunately this means you pretty much need to replace it straight away with stronger alloy piping, last thing you want is a hose to blow after giving it a bootfull in the middle of nowhere leaving you stranded. Currently there are a few companys making this alloy kit as a direct replacement of the factory pipes, Herrod, Coolerworks and Plazmaman to name a few. Should cost between $400-$600 for a kit. Full Inter-Cooler Kit The factory intercooler may be able to make 290-330rwkw but it will be at it's limit and starting to suffer from heat soak after multiple dyno runs or lots 'spirited driving', loosing power and efficiency. If your happy to splash a little more cash at this stage it would be a good idea to upgrade to a bigger intercooler and piping kit. These can range from $1500 (entry level) up to $3000+ (full high flow race level). There are some quality kit manufactures for the FG XR6 Turbo including Process West, Rapid Systems, Plazmaman, HDI and PWR. With the all the Red mods completed you should be able to have your car tuned to around the 290-310rwkw mark, with the blue mods completed too you should safely make the 310-330 mark or maybe even a bit more. Good Luck
  5. 19 points
    Don't ignore the data....one cooler is not slightly better than the other...it's a total smack down...I knew what the result of this back to back test would be before it happened....many many tuners over the last 5 years or so have been giving me plenty of feedback :-) If you are on the fence about which cooler to buy...buy the tube and fin....I will send you my product at no cost...have your tuner back to back the two.....if the tube and fin performs better send my product back and I will pay for the tube and fin product....ask the tube and fin fella if he will offer the same guarantee. Kev
  6. 18 points
    Seriously have to laugh at this thread, lets break it down in to groups. We have serious performance orientated guys , guys that just listen to tuner X and hand over the Visa, guys that are on tight budgets and have to save... And to top it the thread is also comparing 2 seriously different style cores, bar and plate will always cool better than tune and fin,with respect to actual core size tuners experienced in turbo tuning should know this as its fairly common knowledge. Now Im not having a go at any tune shops or independent tuners, there's ALOT of awesome tuners out there, but unfortunately some are not. People need to make educated decisions, forums like this are a great way to obtain information, but are also a place of great bias and confusion. Some good comments from guys that have used X brand cooler with good results, results that at the time of purchase they were extremely happy with, only to see another car later on make 5-10% more dyno read kws, with a different brand intercooler... did they make a poor decision the first time, or have their expectations now changed because they've now seen a higher power result? At the end of the day, for most of us its how the car drives on the road that is the most important, if you like to go out of cruises and run your mates, then on-road performance is what you need to look at, and tube/fin cooler perform totally different to bar and plate cooler. Refresh time... I am yet to see anyone comment on this, tube and fin will always refresh much faster, making your on road inlet temps lower. So what does this mean? Example, your cruising along at 60kays, your mates next to you, tube n fin being a faster temp transfer, will generally mean your motor has lower temps as air is flowing through the core, the bar n plate, generally considered a greater heat sink, thus holding more heat in its heavy dense alloy core.... nail it and you'll probably jump in front, with inlet temps naturally rising on both cores, the tube and fin will heat faster, but then cool its heat soaked temp much faster... so the next run you do your inlet temps have dropped back down fast, where as the bar n plate is still hotter, so now its inlet temps are a bit higher... so you can see how on road performance will greatly vary between the two cores... but if numbers are still your main deciding factor, data log your car, you'll be able to see exactly what temps are coming in and how your tuner has set up temp v IAT correction... Ill talk about this next as E85 and 98 make a huge difference here. We are lucky to have a lot of temp correction tables in the tuning software (SCT, HP , Sniper), the main one that we look at , in regards to intercoolers is Inlet Air temp Vs Spark timing, as mick mentioned early. What is it? basically it is a correction table that is already set up by Ford, to suit the OEM intercooler and 98oct fuel. We have the ability to adjust this, there is no right and wrong for this table, purely governed but the amount of engine knock (ping). Now on a 2010 F6, this table , at 37.8deg C will not add or remove any spark timing.... therefor IF your chosen intercooler hit a max of 37.8deg the computer will not remove and spark from any timing maps, therefor not reduce power from spark. IF the inlet temps go above 37.8 the computer will start to reduce spark, according to how this table is set, thus reducing power. the next temp indicated is 67deg C, with a reduction of around 3deg spark (there is also a multiplying table working at load / rpm that will vary the total spark, but generally 3deg) so IF you were to manually remove 3deg of spark from the motor at WOT, you will loose a fair amount of power... and that is the most common reason power figures vary between core types (of the same size) How do we counter act this? Some don't, they either don't have the confidence to adjust this table, or purely do not know or have not been taught to do so. Its up to the tuner to adjust this table IF they want to, and if they do, they need to carefully monitor knock, and there are a lot more factors that contribute to knock than just inlet temps. Ok so now you have E85 in the tank, inlet temps are now much much less a contributor to knock than 98... Example, My GT runs 11psi at WOT on 78deg C at 7200rpm on E85, with 27deg of spark timing... do not compare this to a XR6T motor as the coyote takes a lot more spark. If this was on 98 it would ping its tits off and break. To back this up I have also run my G6ET at 25psi boost on E85 with NO intercooler at all, none, No pinging , 18deg spark at WOT and inlet temps of 60-70. Funny thing is back in the 90s when I began tuning and working with turbo cars, a lot of us didn't even have intercoolers, so we had to deal with 90+deg inlet temps, to counteract this we ran water/meth mix's to drop combustion chamber temps, this is exactly what E85 does, the inlet air temp may be high, but the resulting combustion temp is greatly lower, thus working against detonation, on 98 you have huge combustion temps, so lower inlet temps will always be ideal over higher temps. End of the day all the coolers on our market perform very well, there all different sized , different prices ect so yes results will always vary, and all tuners tune differently so again results will vary. But one thing I will say is if your running E85, choose your intercooler on airflow, do not worry about variations in inlet temps... so I guess that's pretty much everyone looking at 450kw plus... dropping 5 or 10deg inlet temp on E85 isn't worth even thinking about when tuned with the above compensations taken care of. Im a huge fan of Plazmaman , and ultimately inspired by the work of ProcessWest, and its great to see comparisons like this but people really need to know what goes on in the tuning side of things, and how the final result of a modded XR6 F6 can vary, regardless of who made what and says what.
  7. 18 points
    For the extra $370 you will get 15 degree cooler intercooler outlet temps and more power every time you step on it. Buy the Plaz unit and Ill send you my unit at no charge. Have your tuner back to back both. If the Plaz unit outperforms my product send mine back and Ill pay for your Plaz unit as well. that's how confident I am that my product is superior.
  8. 17 points
    So I'm finally getting around to doing a proper build thread, I've been on here for about a year and a half which is when I bought my BF2 XR6 turbo with a ZF box... The goal was to make it a quick street car, keep the 6 speed auto and do all or as much as possible myself.. I come from a mechanical upbringing starting in my dads cylinder head reconditioning and Performance shop, and then working on a top fueler as a part time job towards the end of school.. but now carpentry is my bread and butter (I was told it's better money) I bought the car off my dad stock with 110,000k's, when I got my hands on it a quick google search brought me to Intune's website (funny that)... But before doing any mods I got myself an a/f ratio gauge, oil pressure gauge and a boost gauge along with an innovate obd2 data logger to log as much as I could and monitor it in it's stock form, I ran a 14.0 at my first outing, which I wasn't very impressed with as I had run a 14.4 in my EB falcon.. Not long later I bought myself a "generic" tune in an x3 from our friends at intune, surprisingly it wasn't as bad as a lot of people have had... But I ran a best of 13.1 from memory Shortly after I got myself a Process West stage 2.2 + hotside kit deka 60lb's Walbro 400l Eboost street I Ported the wastegate, leaving the standard flap Turbosmart 12psi actuator Installed all this and got another tune emailed to me to load into my X3, I asked him to leave the tune open so I could make minor adjustments through the x3 if necessary, it wasn't perfect but there were no big issues with it, aside from being quite rich at WOT (11.0).. I made some small spark adjustments and was using the eboost to control boost... Some time around then I hollowed out the cat, installed a PWR transmission heat exchanger, serviced the box and put a steel pan on it... I ran a best of 11.8@124 and was very impressed as I had spent minimal Money, the car was still 100% reliable and my daily... I told myself that was enough and stopped their..... Ummm no.. The standard turbo oil feed blocked up and stuffed the turbo due to my carelessness, forcing me to get a GTX3582 (what a shame)... I put a 38mm wastegate flap on my housing and ported it some more, then bought an x-force exhaust, 4"dump twin 2.5, got the exhaust manifold, rear turbo housing and the dump ceramic coated. Made up a tool to put a set of crow valve springs in (it broke putting in the last spring).. And got a Process West 4" race box and battery relocation.. I built up enough confidence to purchase HP Tuners, this was the best thing I had done, slowly learning more mainly through trial and error and asking a few questions here and there, got it to idle smother, come on boost quicker and just over all feel better... I also got some x-Spurt 1000cc injectors to go down the almighty e85 path.. The next step was some wheels (19" GT 335 copy's) ssl king springs on the front and sssl's up the back, I decided to do a track day at Wakefield Park so looked into the handling side of things, Pat at Wholesale Suspension knew exactly what I needed, and organised me superpro bushes in all the right places, a front sway bar and a set of Koni reds... Once that was done and I had been playing with the tune making more and more power so stopping comfortably was becoming an issue, I was looking into the K-Sport stuff but some how ended up with a brand new set of 6 pot Brembos haha, I got some t3 4000 series rotors and got conned into red stuff pads, their good for street duties but weren't too good on the track .. The car already came with the 328mm territory rears from factory just machined the rotors and put some ultimate pads on... What a difference all of this made to the overall feel of the car! It's a joy to drive and I was actually surprised with what it could do... For a first time ever throwing a car around a track and overpowering the small tight track I managed a 1:14.0 More recently I've upgraded the fuel system, I really wanted the KPM twin intank setup, being an early BF2 it still had the BA tank, I went to the effort of changing my tank for an FG one, it wasn't a huge job but it's not a 2minute job either.... I've gone back to the drags, the best I have done is 11.7@131mph, I just can't get off the line with street tyres, even driving off the line is no good... I'm scared of putting radials on right now because I know exactly what will happen, and realistically I can't afford it right now.. So at this stage I am just doing whatever is necessary make sure it gets me to and from work every day... I'm proud with what I have achieved so far, with absolutely everything being completed by me in my driveway haha, looking forward for what's to come Thanks for reading
  9. 17 points
    Since we are talking babies (hi dags) Joseph Vincent Wiggum also arrived today. Happy and Healthy
  10. 17 points
    The wife's results coming back cancer free, after 30mm tumour removed from thyroid.
  11. 17 points
    For anyone interested, She is running, I havnt taken it for a drive yet, just got it started and iron out a few bugs.. I'll do abit of a write up once she has her maiden voyage Thanks, Joe
  12. 16 points
    So abit has happened since last update........
  13. 16 points
  14. 16 points
    Got a mate who's been royally shafted over the last 18 months with the split with his misses. Lawyers, lies and harassment etc - put it this way, her family still talks and goes camping with him, not her. 3 kids and he's only been able to see them again in the last months or so Sold the property a couple of weeks ago - all proceeds of sale went to her She's a total nutbag with what she's doing and the way she's screwing him over - to the point her own family are on his side in the whole debacle. Today he picked me up on the way to a Melbourne Cup BBQ - he told me the only bet he took (only one he could afford) was a box trifecta with the 3 horses he liked, plus the number he chooses every year. $24 was the cost of his ticket. $20,010.30 is the price the ticket pays out Yep - the farker got the trifecta - for $20k On the way there we were joking about if his ticket won - maybe $2k would be a shot in the arm for him with his legal bills etc $20f*ckingK - about friggin time he had a win Loveliest bloke anyone could know - this win for him restores my faith in the universe :D :D :D
  15. 16 points
    Alrighty, it has been a very long couple of days!!! Wow haha, I'm over the moon with how everything has turned out The last post before we got off topic was about how I got the motor and box in... Next was 2 nights worth of installing accessories, shafts, exhaust, etc.. That's all pretty straight forward First start up went to plan.. Just a quick 10second start to circulate the fluid through the box so I could top it up some more, I just used a good known base file I had and threw in the injector data supplied.. Started it 2-3 times to fill the box up... The motor purred like a kitten, zero noise and starts first click, so I'm cheering, only 2 issues were present, the new twin cats have sweet fark all clearance so there was a decent knock going on and I couldn't get the fuel pressure below 5 bar even though I upgraded every component in it, just retaining the KPM twin 460 module... Spoke to Dave, he suggested it needs the correct fuel regulator, even though I already installed a brand new Holley -10 reg I thought I'd seek something that flows even better, came across the magnaflow 2000hp bypass reg, surely this will be big enough, installed it and I still had the same issue, 5bar minimum.. So some diagnostics of my own, I.e disconnecting the return line and draining into a bucket I was able to get it to 3 bar if I wanted... So obviously there's a restriction somewhere further down the line, which only left the fuel module... Anyway, took it apart and basically there's a tiny hole at the bottom of the return, very similar to the situation with the factory fuel pot, this is the smallest part of the system... I'd say there is a reason for this, possibly to keep the pot full, I think it has been spoken about before... But I'm not too concerned about that for now, all I know is that hole is keeping my pressure up, you can't exactly make the hole bigger as the bottom is made from a plastic and it's fairly thin at that point, so I improvised and drilled another two holes the same size at the bottom... Once it all went back together all was good again.. Finally I can command the correct fuel pressure.. I'm also happy to say that I have run the tank to about 1/4 and zero fuel surge present, with gate pressure being around 22psi, conservative timing and conservative fuel (e85), it should be into the 400+rwkw mark The exhaust touching was the other issue, I just got some exhaust heat wrap, and a couple hose clamps wrapped around the cats... It touches a little when it's hot, but the wrap takes up most of the knock Okay, box is full, fuel is right, everything's right, time to start running it in... The first 20 or so minutes are the most crucial as it beads in the piston rings, the correct ring seal helps make power, and keeps the blow by down.. This is best achieved by loading it up, get on the freeway in higher gears and alternate through the rev range, and engine breaking is good too, obviously only using a maximum of about 20-30% throttle.. Well this is dads theory anyway... So I did exactly that [emoji106] I did about 300km with that style driving, the first half throttle stab I gave it broke the tail shaft centre bearing causing a horrific vibration.. I got it on a mates hoyst because I wanted to check everything anyway.. Sourced a new bearing and changed it along with a uni-joint.. The billet shaft to Gbox coupling I bought wasn't what I thought and needs some revision! So put a Std one back on Throughout all this I've been running in the box, it shifts and grabs fine, just 2-3 shift is abit strange. Taking to jet I have a way to try and get it sorted, fingers crossed it's just the TCM that needs to re-learn it's adaptive memory I dumped the run in oil and it came out clean, it has the general fine metal, but all seems good! I made it to Powerplay, with about 600km on the clock, what a day that was!! I absolutely love it... You could say that It didn't have an easy day haha, but to be able to drive it to the track, enjoy the day and drive home without an issue at all is a big positive for me... I have been told not the give it to it for the first 1000km of driving..... But it just felt to good to baby it lol.. Here's a 80km 2nd gear break boost then roll into 3-4 haha ahh what a feeling!!! https://vimeo.com/128717152 I only went out for 3 or 4 cruise sessions with breaks in between, This is what happens in 4th gear powerskids on a sticky track and a full car!! I can't wait to go through all the go pro footage and see of anyone got any pics... I really love my car and it's not going to stop here.. I'll keep posting up my further modifications and progress of the car I really appreciate everyone that has followed this thread and thanks for all the input Joe
  16. 16 points
    Became a dad! Still in the clouds
  17. 15 points
    Had the privilege but unfortunate to have Darrell back in after giving the limiter a bit if a bash in his FG Mk2 XR6T a few weeks back and completely lunched his factory oil pump gears and this lead a Segway to upgrades and getting more of a complete engine/driveline. Whilst there it gave me a chance to clean up the whole underside of his car as it did have excesses “Red” from Whyalla’s iconic red dust from the iron ore processing plant, now I’m not a professional painter but I’ve given it a decent go to really make the car have a new lease on life Brand new everything ! Atomic HD chain Atomic HD tensioner Atomic HD guides Atomic HD full oil pump assembly Atomic HD lower sprocket Atomic HD race balancer Atomic HD valvesprings Atomic HD 12mm Head studs Atomic HD 28mm OS washers Head crack tested/decked 0.2 thousandth Cold tanked and valve guides measured Genuine Ford Head gasket Genuine Ford Intake valves x12 Genuine Ford Valve stem seals x24 Genuine Ford VRS gasket kit Genuine Ford new plugs Genuine Ford crank seal Garrett GTX G2 3582 full turbocharger Plazmaman 4*-4* intake silicone Plazmaman 2.5-2.5 outlet silicone Venom 4* Dump and cat combo M/S NPC 430rwkw clutch kit Single plate copper organic mix and Billet HD flywheel ARP flywheel to crank bolts MalWood Alloy CSC MalWood Braided feed line MalWood Braided Remote bleeder HD centre bearing replacement on Tail shaft Brand new 42mm Radiator Just doing some Kms to run everything in and the new clutch time to bed in then it’s Dyno time to see how much she can make We will be fuel limited but 400rwkw should be easy done Before After Before After Before After Before After Before after
  18. 15 points
    We've just had a baby girl! Wife and baby are both in good health so all is well.
  19. 15 points
    Captain's Log Star date 2016-06-21-17.22 This is week 2 of no boost. I complain, but...nobody listens. I have received news that some required parts will take 3 weeks to arrive. As my memories of my former life fade, the hatch is becoming proportionally more fun to drive. I subconsciously initiated a rear emergency brake induced oversteer event when turning a corner in the wet, and almost convinced myself it was "fun". I pray to the motoring overlords for my sanity. Luckily there remain stalwart defenders of the downtrodden in this bleak, perpetually "one atmosphere of pressure" world, who have come to the rescue with far more rapid availability of parts for my currently un-seaworthy war vessel. The WA Brembo & Diff Emporium proprieter @Ralph Wiggum suggested I contact The Barra Parts Hoarding Baron (also known as @Tocchi) which has proved fruitful. The work to the keel of my ship is completed and attention has moved to the bow which is to be strengthened and made oil-tight. I am now seeing a glimmer of hope that I shall experience air inputs above 1 BAR by the weekend. Signing off SJBB Captain of the Lacques dePaint -End of log entry-
  20. 15 points
    Okay so after lots of requests I have decided to run a back to back test between a bar and plate core and a tube and fin core. The bar and plate core was sourced from overseas, has internal offset fins, so is up with usual type being offered. Earlier bar and plate coolers didn't have offset internal fins but rather a straight pressed configuration. The offsetting of internal fins helps further the increase internal surface area which is so vital to efficient thermal transfer as well as helping turbulate the charge air. This is due to something called laminar flow which is another topic in itself. The tube and fin core being used is the latest offering from Europe with thin laser welded tubes and also an internal offset fin arrangement. Unlike many "extruded" tube designs which are rather heavy and are fast becoming dated. The bar and plate core measures in at 500mm x 430mm stacked height x 100mm thick The tube and fin measures in at 480mm x 430 x 100mm thick On the scales the tube and fin core is almost 5kg lighter than the bar and plate Bar and plate 12.5kg Tube and Fin 7.6kg The next most interesting thing is total flow area of the two cores. The bar and plate has 23 flow tubes, while the tube and fin has only 19. The flow area was calculated and I didn't expect this much of a difference to be honest Bar and Plate 107.525 cm2 of flow area Tube and Fin 178.695 cm2 of flow area This does become a very important factor in thermal exchange rates as it effects air speed throughout the coolers tubes. For obvious reasons thermal transfer rates are varied greatly by the amount of time the charge air spends within the coolers tubes to exchange thermal energy with the atmosphere. If the flow area is small then air speed is higher than that of a larger flow area where charge air will have more time for effective thermal transfer. Hope that makes sense Anyway here are some pics. This will take me a fair amount of time as I need to squeeze it all in between jobs. I will conduct a back to back test on the same vehicle on the same day with identical tanks on the coolers and keep the playing field as fair as possible logging before and after cooler temps, power etc etc. This test is not to be biased in anyway whatsoever as I am open to both types of cores. Each has their place and both have greatly different costs. Hope everyone can enjoy the write up
  21. 15 points
    Well, my young fella got me a new creeper for Father's Day so I jacked the car up with the intention to take the dump off and have a look. Before I got that far, I checked the actuator. Straight away, I noticed I could wiggle the shaft forward and back slightly with bugger all resistance so I was thinking no preload. Then I looked a bit harder. Pulled the shaft forward to simulate operation and found the problem. The back nut on the rod had come either come loose or hadn't been locked off. It was fouling internally on the fkn actuator bracket. Pushed it sideways and bit by hand and clunk, back to stop. Can you fkn believe it! Yeeessss!!! Took it for a quick run and as expected I've got all my bottom end back. Obviously, the 'two stage' boost thinghy which I always suspected was mechanical, was when it was catching and didn't quite return to stop. It got worse with the new housing because the OEM connection is on the inside of the lever arm, not outside as MTA does them. The shaft had been offset a little to accommodate this but it meant the nut ran even closer to the inside hole on the bracket. When it was catching fully, it meant the depth of the nut (approx 4mm) was keeping the flapper open by presumably a similar amount. No wonder it wouldn't build boost. Can't describe the level of relief guys. Bit hard to fix on the ground plus the preload will need to be checked so it will be done at the shop tomorrow. So, there you have it. A fkn piss ant 20c nut was the root of all evil.
  22. 15 points
    1yr ago today since My Wife and I where sat down in the KEMH "counselling room" and told by the Chief of NeoNatal medicine we had a 5% chance of survival for our then 24wk old unborn child. Fast forward twelve months and he's completely healthy, is literally 10 times his birth weight and has moved up from the lowest percentile for height and weight to the top 15% for height and 75% percentile for weight..............and rapidly becoming even cheekier than his father.....
  23. 15 points
  24. 15 points
  25. 15 points
    Expensive Daewoo plant is in SA.. Work it out
  26. 14 points
    While some of you guys were ripping it up at Racewars, I was doing pretty well at the Westernationals in Group 2 - Competition Bike. We top qualiified, won the round and the gold Christmas Tree (the holy grail of aussie drag racing) and reset the national record for DD/CBI to 8.339. I also ran 0.2mph off the national record terminal speed at 164.8mph. I've now got the WA Comp Bike track championship in the bag with one more round to go and at the end of the month we go to Adelaide and try to tie up the National Chmpionship. (both championships are a bit weak this season, but I'll take it) Next season's goal is to run a 7 and crack 170 mph, then we'll be proper fast!
  27. 14 points
    Well I made it home in one piece managed a best of 10.8@140mph.. It is a freezing night and the track lost all Its temp extremely quickly, especially with lots of stopping and starting due to oil downs and accidents... But all in all I'm over the moon once again, I can finally say that I have built a genuine 10 second street car, driven to and from the track.. Built, tuned, driven by me, now that's an achievement in my books.. Pretty weak 60" as it spun 1st and some of 2nd every time, I think ill wait for a test and tune where they prep the track better and possibly a hotter day to give it abit of temperature 10.8@140mph, 1.9 60" 11.0@136mph, 2.1 60" 11.3@138mph, 2.2 60" I'll concentrate on strengthening and sorting out the suspension setup to lower the ET then start feeding her more boost, 140mph is moving and suggests mid to high 400's??
  28. 14 points
    Long post but hopefully some get something out of it. I went through a really tough time professionally about five years ago. I'm employed at a large Local Government. My work colleague stuck by me after a group of floggers decided they wanted our positions and concocted a disgraceful campaign to unseat us, including making false claims that I'd made inappropriate advances to our female admin officer. When that failed, unrealistic work targets were set over an extended period and other underhanded stuff employed straight out of the bullying handbook. I objected one day and was threatened with physical violence. It wore me down mentally and I had nearly four months off work. It nearly wrecked my marriage. My colleague and I fought really hard for justice and ultimately were rewarded with compensation via legal action but incredibly, the perpetrators remained in their jobs. When I returned to work I was determined to assist others so they weren't subjected to this type of behaviour and felt powerless to act. Whilst I was already a long term Union member, I became a workplace delegate. I lobbied hard with our HR department and one by one the perpetrators of my battles were made accountable for their actions as of course, they continued to act in the same way, against other staff. When they started to eat themselves, one of the main perpetrators actually approached me for help. I did actually coordinate the appropriate level of support but he had a brain fade one afternoon and was caught on camera threatening someone with physical violence - as he'd done to me previously, so was sacked. The manager concerned throughout this whole exercise did his very best to distance himself and in the end when it started to unravel, sold out the supervisors under him to save his own arse. He admitted to me one day in a lift that he'd got it wrong but said "it was easier to let them do what they were doing as it was only you and...so it came down to numbers". He then gave a smug smile and we got off the lift. As I've become more involved in higher level workplace reforms over the years including now working in a committee with the CEO, he has also called on me to assist him. I was nominated last week as workplace delegate of the year (state award) in recognition of my work. The manager concerned in my battles has just been shuffled sideways into another directorate. I was determined to outlast him and assist my colleagues and I've now achieved both. That makes me feel good
  29. 14 points
    Wifey going in for medical tests and getting the all clear.
  30. 14 points
    rumour has it that they were there twice, they actually stole the gear knob and then came back to return it
  31. 13 points
    Thanks for the kind words Dazza Some simple stuff but interesting all the same for me last week starting with @Roo32 coming in for a service,Jonny Tig 4* race intake and battery relocation kit and aftermarket pipe kit all in black Had Ben in for a service and turbo swop as the old 100,000km factory turbo had developed the "death rumble" so just a changeover with a FG mk2 factory turbo so like for like, took a video for the peps who don't know what that sounds like then I've finalised @pro_xw98's engine build and is ready to install, the pictures just don't do it justice imho new water pump and pulleys,engine mounts new sensors to go in also Alex had the new CRG lowmount HPC coated with the new rear housing and looks schmick
  32. 13 points
    My journey to owning a 386rwkw BA XR6T. When I was on my P's I owned a red BA 2003 XR6 N/A, I could not wait long enough to get my opens so I could have a turbo. So I was offered a BA 2003 XR6T 4 Speed Auto Blueprint for a very good price and could not refuse. Once I got my opens I started using the Turbo and sold the N/A to a mate. First of I wanted some new wheels and thought I would prepare for the more power I will want later. So Matt Black wheels fronts 19x8.5 and rears 19x9.5 Now I chose the XR6T because I had heard of its power potential so it came to the time where I had to start looking at doing my first stage of mods. I did not want to gain power too cheap so I did some research and I always had a goal in mind of around 300rwkw Stage 1 result was - Venom 3.5" high flow cat - Atomik valve springs - Custom airbox with pod filter - Walbro Fuel Pump - 1000cc KPM Injectors - PW Stage 3 Intercooler with hot/cold side piping - PWR Tranny Cooler XCAL4 Tuned to 258rwkw with 870nm torque running 14 PSI trailing off When I heard the power result I was not overly impressed... but then I took it for a drive and it was absolutely amazing! I had never driven anything so powerful before. I could not wipe the smile of my face. Unfortunately the actuator was sticking so I decided to put a 10psi actuator on and get the turbo wastegate ported with larger flapper. I got a retune and noted I was wanting closer to 300rwkw so we put boost up to 15psi The result was 265rwkw with 890nm torque running 15psi Still not very impressed with the power result on paper however driving with the power felt amazing and even better having it hold on boost. It wasn't 300rwkw however I was happy... for the time being. I decided to put it on another dyno to see how different the reads could be. Result 275rwkw with 916nm One day I was on Gumtree and come across a great motor/club/gearbox deal 2007 BF F6 Typhoon motor with turbo (brand new core, ported wastegate and larger flapper) Billet oil pump gears and Plaz Valve Springs just fitted. T56 Manual Gearbox with brand new Malwood Option 4 Heavy duty clutch and flywheel. Once again I had to buy it haha. So now I have the strong bottom end what other mods can I get to make some good power. More reseach was needed. Stage 2 final result - BF F6 07 Typhoon motor - Converted from BTR4 to T56 Manual with 3.93 diff - Turbo ported wastegate with larger flapper and 12psi actuator - Malwood Option 4 Clutch and Flywheel - Billet Oil Pump Gears - Plaz Valve Springs - PW Stage 3 Intercooler with even larger hot and cold side piping - PW Throttle Body reloc - PW Battery reloc under headlight - PW 5" Turbo side race airbox - 1000cc KPM Injectors - Walbro Fuel Pump - X-Force 4" Dump to 3.5" exhaust - 600HP Built tailshaft Tuned with XCAL4 making 386rwkw with 1091nm running 19psi on BP98 Now I am really happy with the dyno readout and the power is amazing! Cant stop smiling again Buckled the old wheels so bought some new ones which are same f19x8.5 and r19x9.5 Wanted to start doing track days and those stock brakes are horrid not to mention the amount of rotors you chew through. So I got some XYZ 6 Pot 355mm Front setup Thanks for reading guys thought it was time I wrote my piece haha. There will be more to come.. more mods and I still have e85 to try
  33. 13 points
    A bit of an update for the Rolls software. As some of you know I am the one helping Rolls in the background hunting through the assembler and finding new parameters and have just completed initial testing on a new feature for this software. I have been able to track down the independent control of the exhaust cam for the XR6 turbo and yes we have control There is a bunch of tables missing from the other products that I have found and have them in for the first release (TBA). An interesting one based on vehicle speed but currently a constant. So now the fun will begin. IH8TOADS pointed out we could do ghost cams and we have someone testing this as well. So higher overlap cams may be controllable at idle as well as removing the stuff Ford put in to reduce back pressure in the higher rev range due to the factory exhaust. I believe this is a first for us. We have been told it is not in other products.
  34. 13 points
    I'd give my right arm for that car.
  35. 13 points
    Hey fellas, I finally hit the Dyno and the track again.. The car still feels awesome and I'm in love with it once again So back on the Dyno, the only real change since last time is the custom age head studs, and the Circle d converter, I was happy that the tune was pretty spot on, with a clean 22psi, and crisp 0.84 lambda.. Had to try a few different strap down and load settings because it was just turning the tyres https://vimeo.com/169944444 Ended up with a consistent 456rwkw@6000rpm but close to 1300nm torque at 3500rpm, so I think that comes down to the torque multiplication of the circle d.. I was also able to get the converter to pretty much lock up completely by the top end of the run I know how much use like videos, so here... (All completed on closed private roads in controlled conditions) https://vimeo.com/169944684 https://vimeo.com/169944706 FYI: that was roll on from about 100kmh and started baking around 140kmh Anyway, got it all ready for Powerplay, but it might as well of got rained out, they let us on the track, but I'm not a fan of drifting an auto lol Got it to Sydney Dragway last night.. There's a few changes from my last outing a year ago.. The Shockworks, Circle D and M&H 275/50/17's The first run without any changes to the tune it went 10.6@133 with a 1.61 60" the peak boost was only 18psi and left the line with 8psi, so I believe that the boost dropped because it was loaded up harder.. That's my best 60 and it felt awesome, the weight was pretty much transferred to the back and it just stuck.. Plus I had a full tank, 2x20l gerri cans full and a bunch of tools haha Next lap I upped the wastegate DC which took it to 20psi, I think it went 10.5@136 but the throttle cut coming off the start line.. Looked over the log file and seems it hit a rev limiter at 4000 just after leaving the line, I found it and raised the limiter Went back out with the same DC and went 10.44@137 still with 20psi throughout the run, it felt stronger but still a 1.72 60" Turned up the DC another 10% and went out, this time I left the line with 15psi and it baked the tyres off the start line and went 11.1@139 and finally got back up to 22psi I got one more run in and left everything as it was.. Left the line fairly hard again with a 1.67 at around 8psi, it was pulling hard with 109mph 1/2 track but a cooler pipe came off around 3/4 track, I thought it was the box so I quickly neutralised it and hit the brakes.. Still rolled through the line with a 10.6@107mph So overall I'm proud of myself and the car, especially being able to drive it home with no issues.. The cooler temps were getting hot though, from about 50* to 60* thought the run, so I think it's time to upgrade the S2 cooler.. Maybe johnny tig? Thanks guys, I should have some videos of the runs soon
  36. 13 points
    Newsflash! Just got the phone call. Car has passed an emissions test! Bloody rapt. After all this delay, I can now get on with getting this thing licenced and on the road... legally.
  37. 13 points
  38. 13 points
  39. 13 points
    WMMFGT?: Asked the old man (dad) the account number for his mortgage. Found out the pay out figure Paid it out. Felt good to shake his hand and say "Hey dad - you now own your home"
  40. 13 points
  41. 13 points
    I got the job! Now I just have to pass my medical then I can start to drive trains
  42. 13 points
  43. 13 points
    I became a granddad for the first time yesterday, a beautiful girl . Im so proud that I cant stop smiling
  44. 13 points
    Most already know why we/I chose to give it up but for the rest who would like to wonder why we gave up a great little thing is because life is to short basically.My dad had a heart attack while playing at his darts club on a wednesday night and only at 61 years old, it put alot of things into perspective in regards to how little I was with my family and up the shed instead. Its about two months now and already we have done a handful of things since we officially quit because I suppose were just to nice and helping lads out is just what we do, so we had to sell the dyno or otherwise the people would still keep coming.( had a 3-4 month waiting list and it was growing fast ) As it is there is the very last turbo still in the shed and I/we can only take it as a compliment in hindsight but now its time to get on with spending time with the kids and other family members On the flip side don't ever try and sell a dyno the world is full of dipsh*ts and dreamers, what a mission that was but its all gone now We learnt more that u can poke a stick at and are very proud to be one place people could come for help or a tune or some good honest advice with a un biased view and for a large amount of people for free, yep if it was not bare bones trade price to help out we dished out heaps of work for free, just because we could and its nice to give back We were never a "workshop" ever despite what some think and it was always a hobby, yeh if u wanted brand new parts we looked after u but yep u did pay something towards keeping the doors open to the next bloke in need, Like ive always said iam here to help just like the few top lads before me who helped me/us get to a point where u feel comfortable tuning ( u know who u are ) Yeh it was a big exercise and lots of expense but iam/we are glad we did it and did it well.
  45. 13 points
  46. 13 points
    Congrats to Headsex who ran a 9.97 @ 141mph , and with a sling-shotting 1.53 at Heathcote today on 275/ 17 Mt Streets. Not to mention still running a standard motor.
  47. 13 points
  48. 12 points
    Mum's surgery all went well today, surgeon said he's really happy with it all. She's pretty dosed up at the moment, but wakes up every now and then and seems to be in good spirits and making some jokes, despite being a bit uncomfortable (understandably). Said she's glad it's over with. Apparently they should have the results of the biopsy in about a week.
  49. 12 points
    Just a quick teaser pic !
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