Puffwagon

Here's a thought...put the studs in and yank em down nice and tight. It might be just enough to stop the leak.

So yeah being a slacker and all I only pulled off the timing cover for a look. Fortunately the new timing chain guides are fine and the atomic m8 stud is unscathed too. Happy days! So onto the carnage...Seems like the outer oil pump gear let go. Pics cos pics...

It's pretty easy when you know how. I would never remove the engine to do this, it's probably 6 times the amount of work. None of the stuff you want to do involves removing the head. You can fix the threads with it on, you can do valve springs and valve guide seals with it on and you can do head studs with it on. The car will already have a metal gasket too. Do a leak down test if you are concerned that the valves aren't sealing but they should be fine. Literally line it up to tdc, put both cam dots straight up, have no slack in the chain on the pass

Haha the first thing the missus asked me when we saw the oil pump was, "so is there a billet upgrade for it?" Yes there is and yes I'll be getting one. I'm also gonna be going with a fire ringed copper head gasket cos that last one (athena split ring) cost me over $450 and is a one use thing.

Yeah man could have but don't think so... I stopped at lunch time and went to the beach. Will know sooner or later.

I've had it making peak power on the dyno at 6800rpm but it will make power to about 7500 from my further testing. This means the power will keep climbing until then. If you read a few posts back in the thread you'll see that I've recently played with it and set it to 00 aka 5900 again. Still revs to 7500 no worries though. Not interested in spending money on cams as the only way down for me is stock.

Dunno yet bu thinking the pump body exploded, sent sh*t into the crank gear/timing chain, stretched/snapped the chain/pulled the lower pin out of the adjustable chain guide and that was it. Eh it's all good. I've got what I need to fix it, so the cost to sort it out should be reasonable. I'm sure I can justify an upgrade or two while it's apart lol. Only a few bolts away from having the engine out so yerp...just stuff and work

Yeah man I've done this to a few of my exhaust threads and also a couple of the front cam cap retaining threads. Either the heads are sh*t or someone got to it before I did because it's kinda sh*thouse really. I'm pretty sure the intake manifold didn't torque up properly last time so there will be another thread or 3 to fix next time.

Intake cam is locked up so yerp...she farked! Exhaust side spins still.

Atomic chain, boundary gears, hpjunkie backing plate and adjustable relief. I rarely touched the limiter as I set it high enough to not touch it, I would always shift around 7k or so. It saw 7500 a handful of times. Not sure why it chose now to break but might have a better idea when it's apart.

I went out and pulled the rocker cover off cos why not?! The timing chain has snapped and the oil pump body is smashed. I've got billet gears in the pump so will be interesting to see if they failed or if the pump body failed. I got a couple of pics but you can't see much.

Well farken farkers farked again. The valve train aint valve training like it should. Just towed it home and will pull it down tomorrow for a look. Thinking I might have to lower the limiter a touch

Excellent thread mine

Fair enough, I know what you mean. Yeah the 360 thrust is literally just the other half of the thrust/main bearing with a thrust side added to it. The main cap is already machined for it so you can just chuck it in... more or less.

$20 for the 360 thrust so stick it in anyway. Extra $3000 for pistons, rods, bearings and machining to suit, on top of what you're already gonna pay. No point spending all that money for a stock motor build when you can spend double and get something that will take handle 30spi/600rwkw all day long. My 2c