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Nick_is_not_sus

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  1. No worries it's just a oscilloscope of the O2 and some voltage monitoring
  2. #80 the values never changed, car was up to operating temp it had been driven.. I sort of don't get what you're saying, what does NB sensor mean? is this assuming the o2 sensor is flogged? maybe this will show more clarity https://streamable.com/keus2l https://streamable.com/qubguq
  3. Was playing around with my mates tool pro OBD scanner thing, was just curious on how well they worked I have a Xtool D7 anyway ive never checked this before there was a 02 sensor test sso I thought ill check it out rich to lean sensor (v) test ID #01 test value 0.4499v minimum limit 0.4499v maximum limit 0.4499v status "Pass" #80 test ID #80 test value 0.0000v minimum limit 0.5600v maximum limit 0.0000v status "Fail" Did this cheap tool just work out my 02 sensor is flogged ?? its never thrown a code before except for a p0420 from having no cat and bigger exhaust or is this just picking up the second 02 sensor (#80)
  4. So the crackle popping sound is the limiter? If I floor it in first it's hits 6-6.2k rpm a few pops out the exaust as it shifts into the next gear? It also does the same crackle pop sound even if I short shift at about 5.5k rpm
  5. Just curious about the rev limiter in the fg turbos themselves. my old bf turbo rev limiter just felt like the car was snapping the throttle open and shut. My xr8 just goes to the rev redline and stays there. My FG I was told there's 2 limiters? I haven't tried holding the limiter before just because of harmonics and fear of oil pump gears. But a few times accelerating hitting red line it pops and crackles and shifts. I know this is unique to fg and newer but I just want to know is that fuel cut limiter bad on oil pump gears? Sorry for the dumb question but searching hasn't found me alot
  6. My G6ET is almost ready for a dyno. I'm just curious on people's thoughts and experiences with going to a aftermarket harmonic balancer im not looking at screaming rpms (6.5k) and it will still be a daily sometimes. I'm just worried about popping oil pump gears as my car will be getting the snot beat out of it on the dyno (not a fan of) And I know harmonics plays a big part in failing oil pump gears I just want know if they're actually worth while and if so what did you use or hear of that's was worth it, bare in mind price matters also, since this started as getting a engineer cert for suspension and wheels and now its gotten out of control cause I may aswell get everything certed right?. I can understand if you go aftermarket rods and pistons the factory balancer possibly could put out harmonics (ignoring the parasitic harmonics from a/c p/steering alternator and water pump. Also mention I do have after market rods pistons for a later build
  7. Bit of an update the the p1227 dtc I was getting as soon as I was over .4bar boost. It seems to have disappeared since I have move boost reference line from the inlet manifold to the front housing on the turbo.. it was never going to stay on the IM it was just so there was so overboost protection till I had sorted something.. it may help someone out one day 😊
  8. Well it was kinda accidentally I just wanted to see if the internal gate was sealing after resetting the preload under boost and it went from 4k rpm to the limiter on the blink of an eye I havent. made a habit of this. I have it sorted from my phone to stop giving it a hard time before the tune while I get other things sorted for the mean time till it's tuned other wise it throws a p1227
  9. Thanks man, appreciate your help. everything seems sorted. now I just need to get it tuned 🙂
  10. cheers man, I went to a few hydraulic specialists and couldn't find the right thread for a nipple. so I may just give that a whirl. Took the car to pulse performance racing engineering and he said just leave it on the manifold its not going to make much of a difference although preferably between the housing an cooler is best. Cars boosting nice now rolling in first boost comes on hard at 4k and hits the limiter almost instantaneous. but one rolling boost in first gear after I hit the limiter then wouldn't boost (p1227 manfacurer control) I cleared it it was fine again. it use to do it every now and again once I had removed the cat and added the EWG. Also, another question reading through PCMtec forums. Gareth ar PPRE said I should be able find prefabricated tune for what I have had done and flash the pcm to be safe and bring it in and he can touch it up. and that a tune with pcmtec HPtuners etc are a hassle to tune and slow because adjustments are done with the car off where as a haltech can have adjustments while the cars running. I seen your name on the PCMtec fourm the and just wanted to ask if you know they have premade tunes?
  11. Well time to come back with my tail between my legs. Now the cars stone car. The internal waste was flopping around I think the reason was rushing things before dark. It appears when I clocked the front housing I never nipped them up. Clocked the housing WG is tight now housing is tight lol and also found what I can use as a boost reference point on the housing bolt. Now to go buy a nipple Haven't driven it yet so I hope that was all it was 600rwkw ? Standard pump gears (I assume, old owner said they were done but I had no proof) valve springs and head studs? https://ibb.co/1b2Nk0F
  12. As odd as it sounds theres a reason 2 WG's I have the stock WG is for a modification cert here in NZ, I had the turbo in and out a few times clocking the core and the housing, once that was done I set the preload. not sure if I did it right, I disconnected and flapper and and adjusted so 3/4 of the eye was showing over and stretched it over. its been a long time but I think that's how you set them? isnt it between half and 3/4 over lap? boost was really late and the EW did not sound as agressive as it use to. possible internal gate still pushing open? since its a 10psi spring? checked the fire ring couldntt see evidence of a leak, had it on the hoist and cant feel or hear anything coming out of the screamer pipe. you think the boost reference line from the turbo to the solenoid to the manifold isn't reading properly and causing this issue? would it be better to run it open loop.. safely? till I get it a nipple tigged onto the IC pipe. which I'll do tomorrow at work if I can. I'm still building another engine, this is still a unopened FG F6, tuned what sort of power do you think I will make safely with mods that been done? 3584 gen3, 1650cc bosch injectors, walpro 525LPh, adjustable boost controlled fuel pressure reg, 3.5" exhaust, no cat or centre muffler, 50mm progate and a 450x420x100 intercooler
  13. Yesterday installed a new psr3584 gen3 with t51r mod and 1.15 AR. There was no where to run the wastegate line on the psr housing so I have plumbed into the inlet. I'm am running a 50mm progate and screamer but the new turbo has the 10psi actuator (Only there for cert then I'm welding it shut). The external wastegate is .9bar or 13psi. Gave its first boot today and it didn't start boost in first till about 5k rpm and the wastegate is opening at .5bar. Is it ok to take boost to the waste from the inlet or should I tap into the charge pipe near the housing. Will boost be pushing open the flapper gate cause lower boost, cause the external is still opening? I'm sure with a tune and the new injectors they can get boost to come on more efficiently or is this going to always be laggy?
  14. Just curious on people's thoughts on these Garrett knock offs good and bad. I have just brought a gen3 3584rs with a 1.15A/R 5 bolt rear and t51r mod front, 10spi actuator. (Only running internal gate on low boost, im running a 60mm progate at the moment) and ANTZ 1250cc bosch injectors ( won't be installing till its at the dyno, I have nothing to scale them) I still have head studs and oil pump gears to do and kelford 218b cams which I think im not going to use, but besides those things what sort power would I expect ? It's a healthy overly maintained stock FG F6 engine
  15. Started suspecting the firm bushings might be the culprit after some googling today .. the transfer of the driveline sound into the cab. Its probably half the reason why the stock bushes were so soft and flog out to quickly.
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