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Slash737

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  1. My bf2 turbo was leaking like that. Had the rear main seal changed, still leaking. Turns out it was the sump leaking. Had it re sealed and it hasn't leaked since.
  2. I did ring my local ford dealer for their price. They were going to charge for 8 hours labour so starting price was $1300. I will be going back to APS in a couple of weeks to hopefully get this leak sorted. Seems to be leaking a little more now than before I had the work done but this could be due to the engine oil they used. I never asked what oil grade.
  3. After the chat I had with APS, they assured me they used a geniune rear main seal, there was evidence it had a leak and there was no damage on the shaft so doubted it is leaking again. They would like to inspect it after I put a few more k's on it. But sugested it must be the half moon sump gasket leaking. To take the sump off and reseal, they lower the k frame and costing just over the $1000 mark. Does that sound aboout right?
  4. Yes it was all clean when I picked it up, had a good look. No leaks up top as they replaced the head gasket also. Must be the sump gasket. I'll give them a call and have a chat. When the leak first started I degreased everything and it would come straight back with no signs of coming up top. The rocker cover has always been dry.I have the zf auto and definately not trans oil has it has red oil.
  5. thanks Puff. After cleaning it up a few times its not leaking from the o-ring. its leaking from the small hose under the housing that joins the coolant pipe to the turbo cooling pipe. Looks like the clamps are not clamping enough. But I have another issue, I still have engine oil dripping from the bottom of the bell housing like before. APS changed the rear main seal. So is there anything else that would cause engine oil to form under the bell housing?
  6. ok so got the car back after all the work APS have done. They sent the head off for checking before reinstalling and they found some of the valves were not sealing properly so some machining was done. The old head gasket was starting to fail in multiple sections and likly casued by loss of tension on the head bolts they said. On their dyno made consistant 328kw. 12 years ago at Pitlane was tuned to 351kw. One think im not very happy about is they managed to scratch the top of the front grill garnish as if they dragged something across the top of it. I didnt see it untill I got home. Also there is a tiny coolant leak coming from the metal hose connection into under the thermostat housing. I assume there is an o-ring installed. What size is it so I can change it over. They did a great job and the car is running great again.
  7. Great to hear the positive experience at APS. I already had my car booked there next week to get my issues fixed. Change head gasket and rear main seal, service the zf, new rear rotors and pads. After all that then run up on the dyno for a health check on the tune pitlane did about 12 years ago. After all that she should be right for the next 12 years!
  8. Let us know how you go with APS. I will need to take my car somewhere and wouldnt know who to trust now that Pitlane is closed. Has anybody been to DSR? I have read here they do great ZF builds.
  9. Do we know if he is closed for good or just temporary? I was planning to give pitlane a call soon as I need a head gasket and rear main done. Pitlane modded and tuned my car over 12 years ago and never had a problem until recently. Who else can be trusted these days?
  10. I had my BMC filter fail after about 12 years. Lucky I saw it real early before it disintegrated. I clean and re oil every year and when I lifted the air box cover some of the rubber seal tore off. The more I touched it the more it crumbled. Went in the bin and now have a K&N.
  11. I think the best option is to not install one at all. As Ford stopped installing them in the FG, the part was never needed I suppose. Like I and others have done just use extra length of hoses to use in its place.
  12. Not just installed on fpv's. I had one in my bf2 xr6t fail. Thermostat was stuck internally and not routing the coolant to the heater so I had no heater. For me it was the perfect opportunity to throw it and the heat exchanger in the bin and install the pwr heat exchanger and just used extra hose in its place.
  13. Here is some shots from under the car looking up. You can see the drops forming under the yellowish bracket of the pump. The high pressure line is completely dry and its never leaked. Im picking up a new genuine pump tomorrow so ill be changing it over the weekend.
  14. My pump has sprung a leak somewhere. Its not the famous o ring leak, my hose is dry. It seems it starts from under the pump. Ps fluid pools on the underside of the bracket that screws into the block. Then runs down the block and sump. Where could this leak be coming from? Is it time for a new pump? Car: 2006 bf2 xr6t
  15. Thanks, hell of a lot cheaper. Ill just have to take one out and measure it up.
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