natho

I've done a few Mazda B6/BP engines without issue. They have the same setup as the barra - front and rear half moons, with silicone every where else - and the factory manual specifies silicone both under and over the half moon. Is this what you do for barras @Puffwagon? Not sure if there are any brands other than permaseal worth looking at, in general I've found their stuff to be better than others.

Shame about the leaking half moon seals. I re-sealed one a couple of years ago, and it was fine for about 3 months before the half moons both started leaking worse than the original factory ones were. I'm due to do this now on my territory turbo, but nervous that the aftermarket seals won't last as long as the original ones.

I've done exactly that to get to the top bellhousing bolts in the past on falcons. Not sure if it was needed on the territory or not, but I do remember using an impact gun and an impact rated uni joint. That's the cylinder head temperature sensor you're thinking of. Pretty common to break them, just need to be cautious of it as you're lifting the engine in/out.

That reminds me of this one I dealt with a few years ago... Valves were broken and embedded in pistons in two cylinders. Hopefully it's nothing that serious This one was fixed with a $100 Barra and $50 btr and is still daily driven. Miss those pre covid prices!

I think the length of the spring changed with the SY2. Mismatching shocks and springs will probably cause this. I don't know if there's many options for the territory these days. Shocksworks might be worth looking into.

I haven't done that on any car, and I don't recall it being a step when following workshop manuals either.

Coming from E series falcons, an engine swap in a BA was a breeze. Everything in the same familiar place, but more accessible. Going to an AWD territory was definitely more cramped. The front diff makes getting to some stuff a little trickier, e.g. starter motor, but otherwise no big deal. The main difference I found was that with the BA/BF, the engine can be lifted straight out. It's a tight fit with the balancer on, but it fits. There isn't enough space in the territory to do this, you need to rotate the engine to lift it out. I've done it a few times and differently each time, but admittedly these were all non turbos. IIRC removing the exhaust manifold and one of the engine mount brackets is enough. Having an engine crane that works properly and can lift to its max height is essential.... I was caught out by this once.

Top starter motor bolt.

how do you go about locking the cams if you dont have a cam lock tool?