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biddie_fiddler

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About biddie_fiddler

  • Birthday 02/09/1996

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  • Website URL
    www.facebook.com/MidnightSocietyDriversClub

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, WA
  • Interests
    Barra's, Drones, RC cars, Videography
  1. Yea that’ll be the plan then. See how far I can push it as is now with some bigger injectors, maybe add a fuel pump. Suss it out then move to the big boi turbo later on 😂
  2. Reckon the stock turbo will get to that? Looking to push it to its limit and then move to a gen2 3582 after I’m bored with the setup or the stock one breaks 😂 it’s done 115k so I don’t think the stock one will last too long pushing its limits cheers for the info though @k31th, very helpful as always 👍
  3. Hey all, owned my rig for just over a year now, she’s a 2010 xr50th turbo. All too familiar with the common issues these cars can have so one of the first reliability/piece-of-mind things I did was to rid the trans cooler and replace with an external one. Next on my mind is oil pump gears. At what point should one consider upgrading the gears? It’s bone stock but will be getting stuff done next year once the extended manufactures warranty expires. in a stock setting how likely is it that the pump gears will explode? Not done any limiter bashing but I do enjoy “spirited driving”. Would it be better to wait till next year when the car goes in for some power mods or get it done sooner?
  4. Is there any way to recode these systems? Its done from factory so surely it can be done again
  5. Will the ICC still function with these parts changed though is my question. Sure the dual zone feature won't be applicable anymore because there is no solenoids and actuators for the feature installed in a car fitted with only single zone climate control. But from a functionality standpoint, everything else (at least I believe) should still function correctly?
  6. The ICC would remain the same if it was installed into a single zone, just the display and head unit module that they would change out. As far as I know. The head unit module and display are identical on both the dual zone and single zone ICCs. Just that the the single zone has less electronic controls compared to the dual zone. What mechanical bits are you talking about @k31th? Are these behind the ICC? When I removed the ICC to install the kayhan units there were no mechanic connections to disconnect. It was purely all electrical connections.
  7. So I have been trying to sell my Display and Head unit module taken out of a xr50th turbskie - you know, the colour screen with the wee man that walks on startup (best feature hands down). Many people asking me if it would work in their single zone ICC. I have been looking around the interwebs for some insight into this and have not found anything that helps me whatsoever. So, is there anyone here that knows if a screen and head unit module from a dual zone ICC will work in a single zone ICC? Also, its still for sale so hmu if you're interested in the colour screen 🤙
  8. I have confirmed this using Ebay 😂 Some readers will specifically say they support "TCM" in the list of supported protocols. Kayhan Audio's rebranded reader is the only one that will work with their head units. Typical marketing BS! They do however support USB... So I'm gonna buy a USB OBD reader, stick it into the head unit and see if it works. If it does then hallelujah, a way to break their system! Looks like the ones on ebay that say something along the lines of "OBD2 for Ford" has the TCM protocol. Go figure right. Its annoying though, the reader from Jaycar supports all protocols (TCM included) but cannot read as fast as the Kayhan Audio rebranded one. And I NEED trans temp because she's been sitting around 100°C+ when sitting in really slow traffic and I want to see how hot its getting, also found a small kink in the oil line to the cooler that was installed so will probs take it back and ask to get that fixed. Time to put a fan on the trans cooler too I think. On a side note, I see forscan (check out their release notes on the site) now has an android (and IOS I believe) app! Anyone taken a look at this yet? I wanna get it but its $9.50, and I bought torque pro. So if its not any better than that I see no point in switching
  9. So I was doing a little bit of digging, by the looks of things not all ELM327 readers are capable of receiving stuff from the TCM which is where the trans temp request is sent to. Talking to kayhan audio at the moment about to get more info on it
  10. Update: It didn't work 😢 Tried the older one to confirm and that one reads trans temp. Not sure what it is with this mini reader. Possibly faulty or is this some feature you'd usually pay more for?
  11. Yea I was planning on giving that a crack after work. Will see how it goes and let ya know 🙂
  12. Time to revive this topic! 😂 I bought a bluetooth obd reader from Jaycar a while ago and it works fine, it just wouldn't connect to my kayhan head unit. They gave me one for free that will work - winning! Its basically one of these: mini elm327 First of all, it appears to be wayyyyy faster than the one I got from jaycar. It works on the head unit and my phone (s8). The only issue I'm having is that the trans temp will not read any more. I have tried on both the head unit and my phone and I'm getting "no response". This worked with the previous reader too which is really odd. Using PID 221674, OBD Header is TCM, and equation is ((A*256)+B)/8. No settings have changed between the different readers hence my confusion. Anyone have any ideas?
  13. Yea I'm not worried about the trimming part, nothing a grinder can't fix! 😂 I'm happy with everything I have got or that I plan on getting. Just those shims that are bugging me!! I don't want to have the parts here ready to go, only to find I don't have fkn shims! Being a daily, I can't afford to just leave it sitting till another part arrives. I need to have everything ready to go for a weekend job on the hoist with the boys and a carton 👌 Cheers for your help El. 🙂
  14. Hey all, keen to bring this thread back up again lol Been looking into the 328mm rotor upgrade on the rear of my FG for some time now. I've bought T2 rear rotors already, and the rig came with T2 rotors on the front already - bargain! Bought some brake pads before looking into the rotors, so I have DBA performance XP for the front, and I need to get the correct rear pads as the ones I bought are for stock rears. Looking into this set for the rears, seem like they'll do the job just fine. I'm gonna buy some territory rear calipers - seen some 2nd hand ones on ebay for relatively cheap, was around $150 for both left and right. While I'm there I'll probably end up get braided lines all round seeing as I'll need to bleed the brakes after changing the rear. Here's my questions: I'm not sure what braided lines kits to look for, here's a kit I found but I don't know if its the right one or not - if anyone can confirm that would be amazing! Do the rear calipers have shims for the pads like the front? by the looks of it the calipers I want to buy don't have them in the pictures nor are they mentioned, and some my very basic searching on the web hasn't come up with rear shims.
  15. Ah yes, the fad of the car audio industry 😉 Capacitors' main functions are buffers, aiding in filtering and what not. They are not current sources, instead they are voltage sources (to put it simply). The only thing a capacitor will do in these is stop headlights from dimming if you have a bad battery. Basically. Get a better battery instead of a capacitor lol.
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