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Everything posted by k31th

  1. so it's definitely tuned... has it always done it since it's been tuned?
  2. fancy cornice... going to get it gold plated to match @arronm?
  3. This was a delicious steak
  4. morning all, happy Wednesday
  5. they'll fit unless you have brembo's
  6. The knob is glued on heavily... best way to go about it is remove the surround after unbolting the actual shifter arm, then slowly warm it up in an oven then use a vice with a bunch of tea-towels around it and some pliers to get it to start to turn. It won't be easy.
  7. You won't want the risk of a mechanical oil pressure gauge... if the line somehow disconnects inside (theft or failure) you've got high pressure boiling hot oil sprayed all over the inside of your car and potentially it's occupants. Go an electric gauge. To get an electrical gauge it's signal you get a t-piece into the oil-pressure-sensor switch on the turbo oil feed line point or you get a oil filter sandwich plate.
  8. morning all, happy Tuesday
  9. just tend to snap the guide or the gears limiter bouncing, that's all. insurance mod.
  10. anytime you take the oil pump out haha... but if you're planning on hitting hte limiter then do it at that point, irrelevant of power level. good insurance is anything over 300rwkw.
  11. morning all, happy Bathurst Sunday
  12. morning all, happy Saturday
  13. umm. no, you don't need a new transmission, yet... get a proper ZF fluid flush done to see if it helps (you'd be surprised how many things this can help with)... if it doesn't then at worst you need new 3/4 clutches... if it's done other damage like electronic etc it might take a fair bit longer to diagnose but realistically it doesn't seem like an electrical/sensor issue.
  14. the only real difference in driveline between BF2 and FG is the minor changes to the engine and a weaker driveshift and the computer does flash quicker but if your tuner has any patience the BF2 is absolutely fine for tuning purposes and power generation purposes... E85 is a good option if you're within reasonable distance of stations that sell it. also, pics of your car, if it's the one in your avatar? looks good.
  15. could also just be one of the gaurd liners... when you accelerate it pushes it into a position where wind can whistle through it due to the load transfer but when you're off the throttle it the gap is closed ... so much speculation hahaha
  16. yeah, you just share it to YT like you did haha well done. I would be thinking that's something to do with the wheels/tyres, based on the noise.
  17. should be fine with a 295/305 on the rear, but they ain't cheap in 20's haha 245 is fine for the front, no need to go for wide-AF tyres on the front, but just go with what works with your tyre guy.
  18. which vehicle? 10's can run up to 295/305 sorta territory without looking like the tyres are too fat for the rims, but might not fit on your car depending on the model.
  19. alright, you should be able to find it maybe it's just something like a loose wheel weight or something?
  20. if it only happens when accelerating it's likely a rear-end suspension component that has a resonance when pushed on as the load transfers to the rear under acceleration. You could probably set it up on a hoist and replicate it by pushing up or pulling down on parts while the wheels are spinning in the air at the relevant speed.
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