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Everything posted by k31th

  1. yeah; I couldn't find it in a cursory search of this forum, so I'd suggest looking over on AFF plenty of people here talking about 4495's or 4490's, but nobody with a direct comparison dyno chart that I could find, which is what I was thinking of.
  2. oh, my bad, read it wrong haha you talked about a cat-back after mentioning you got the headers and cat... helps if I'm paying proper attention You'd be stoked to be doing 6.5 0-100 in an N/A... sounds like it's tuned, haha Just marketing from pacemaker that the headers will increase power somewhere but not take away power from somewhere else, that's all. I do remember somebody doing a back-to-back of 4490 vs 4495's but I can't remember if it was even on this forum or on AFF. You don't need an X4 anymore, you can get a tune via hptuners or PCM
  3. yep, if you shift the power band a little into the higher revs, this usually comes at a cost to the lower revs. Try a high-flow cat as well, it might help to even it out a bit... but if you just want the reasonable sound and similar to stock torque curve, the 4490's are a good idea. You should just get a tune to see if it can compensate for the 4495's and the minor low-down grunt loss
  4. morning all, happy Wednesday
  5. 2.5 is plenty enough for an N/A and the sound depends totally on the metal in use and the size/shape of the mufflers.... what sort of sound are you actually after? I was happy with an x-force cat-back on an N/A back in the day of N/A driving (2006ish)
  6. no idea what your problem is... best to take it to a tuner to see if it is throttle/torque/thermostat related.
  7. standard stuff, mate... use an app called PetrolSpy and it'll find the ones that's cheapest close enough to you to be worth ti.
  8. pointless to pit a HSV against a Telsa... it'd be a bloodbath; don't even need to watch it haha
  9. my thoughts on Magnum are that you should get the ice cream version instead and get the PPG helical cut gears and sequential shifter for your T56 instead
  10. 1. I wouldn't bother using one of those actuators... they're cheap and nasty (as you found out) and hard to setup the preload properly. 2. the 1.15 rear housing needs to go into the bin... another cheap and nasty item. Just get a replacement garrett 1.06 rear-housing.
  11. they're probably kicking around somewhere...
  12. pretty standard for an incomplete or underdone tune... talk to your tuner about it to get it rectified.
  13. yeah, I get you're stirring... no way is it anything close to what she did, though.
  14. well, I'm just hypothesizing... so, not sure how that means I'm on crack haha
  15. if it only happens when it's 10min into driving, it sounds more like something related to the thermostat... e.g. something in the cooling system isn't liking being used in the extra cooling flow or the extra parasitic drain of the water pump on the system may be causing something else attached to the pulley systems to be running slightly out of spec... but coils and plugs is always a good way to go, trouble-shooting wise, with regard to any falcon that's running rough.
  16. not that job again (I seem to remember you doing that job a while back and hating it) Sounds like a fun time spinning spanners, though, which is always a good way to spend an afternoon
  17. morning all, happy Friday 🖖
  18. Basically the difference is spacers slip on and adapters bolt on... Adapters can also change the stud spacing and hub mount etc like a brand new hub assembly replacing the other one, but spaced out a bit. They're essentially the same thing from a "move the wheel out wider" point of view and "bolt on" ones can add extra features and also are considered to be safer.
  19. yeah, there'll be plenty of people tucking them away for weekend or storage. They do sound pretty damn good in a decent dump+cat situation with more boost I'm sure yours does sound great
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