JETURBO

My point is more towards the fact of when will you know a vehicle’s hardware limitations in regards to efficiency with a bum Dyno ? You don't, you can’t measure that accurately without a tool that’s showing variations within 1 hp This is the purpose of a Dyno, it’s an expensive tool to tune efficiency, again if we could get away without having to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on this tool and just hire one for a final pull to grab a number and a dyno sheet we would

I’m not being condescending, even if that’s how it reads but I’m giving away a bunch of truth bombs people can take on board and hopefully understand why I’ve said what I have I've done plenty of “Street tuning” in the past and now I understand why it was so far from purposeful for the total task of “Tuning” correctly. Yeh use it to set up some basics but you’ll see why a Dyno is worth every cent when you use one and you will also then see why Performance workshops do the things they do in a tune on a specific car if you examine and R&D the crap out of it .... on the assumption the performance workshop had done a good job of the custom tune and modifications on said vehicle if done correctly any change you make should have a negative result

I’m saying what are you trying to change ? If you change your fuelling what are you changing it to and why ? how will you know exactly when you’ve hit the mark you want to hit ? Why are you going to change your boost target and what will you change it to and why ? There’s a plethora of factors you need to understand and ascertain when making changes, once you’ve made a change how will you know it actually was a positive gain vs what you “think” is a gain To help anyone out who’s having a “Stab” n go Tune take this on board The numbers you see in a Tune are unique to the car and hardware, The target in the tune may be very different to the target needed for the end tune goal Know what the tune is requesting AND why and Data log direct changes to the vehicle..... Yes a majority you won’t “Feel” in your bum Dyno or maybe to small for your $30 boost Gauge and $150 AFR gauge Remember if you’re trying to “Better” a professional workshops tune make sure you have the correct equipment and skill to know you actually have with irrefutable Data generation ( again your bum Dyno won’t capture this ) Be mindful that if workshops could tune cars on the street with less than a few hundred bucks worth of equipment they would have ...... Remember tune cells aren’t always what they “Seem” to be on face value as they nearly all interact with other cells and the Falcon is always utilising multiple cells at any one time Mechanical hardware needs to work with electronic input and mechanical will always win if it’s not correct, some situations can still net a target result which may show weird numbers in a cell just sayn

If you start to change things how will you know if you’ve got a desired result for input ?

It’s connected to a plug that’s near the top of the centre of the ZF under the car

On the B series the HDI cooler kit is cheap and works ok for low 300’s its a bit of a pig to install vs say the Plazmaman 800hp kit for the B series which basically bolts in it’s just the way it is now days with the older platform as the Valve springs will probably want to stop all the fun as you get close to the 300rwkw mark anyway The fuel pump on the B series is all out of flow at around the 260rwkw mark also Sometimes you just have to tick one off at a time and get it all tuned to suit The last BF I did was a F6 Typhoon and managed to nail 290rwkw with a ZF auto and around 11 psi on 98 fuel Walbro intank 255 Valve springs Full exhaust port and Flapper modification Garrett 7 psi actuator Stock F6 intercooler Air box modification KPM 1000cc injectors New coils Major service

Totally aware of the difference’s Keif but obviously the meth intake isn’t helping his positive intake ..... maybe a second leaf blower to compound the first leaf blower would work 🤨

No surprise he’s on meth .... shoulda pumped that into the intake instead 😯

Your intercooler and fuel pump will not go past 260rwkw comfortably The turbo rear housing will definitely need to be Ported & Flapped and at the same time definitely fit a Genuine Garret 7 psi actuator This should comfortably nail 255/260rwkw @ 11-12 psi flat

Great write up mate !

Yep ask for Stuart, tell him Aaron from JD TUNING ADELAIDE has referred you to him and he will look after you

Yes

not even close to needing them mate

That photo is from behind the dash cluster