Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


cat007 last won the day on April 20 2021

cat007 had the most liked content!


30 Excellent

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My 2015 FGX hit 130K the other week. Was 77K when I got it in 2016 (18 months old and 77K done - thanks NSW HWP)
  2. Can't speak for all but my OEM one only started making that noise at the 100-110k km mark. I'll have another listen next week when the car is warmed up a bit and see if it comes back.
  3. I've only just not listened to your audio clip. I used to have the exact same sound and I was original tensioner and chain etc. I've since changed to Empire for both and I hadn't noticed the sound but have a loud exhaust on so that drowns it it. *edit I have just checked and I no longer have the sound....the only thing changed in my valve train was the chain, tensioner and guides.
  4. As annoying as this may seem, throw that atomic tensioner in the bin and get OEM or Empire.
  5. They might be fine for an OEM replacement at stock power levels. But I wouldn't dare to guess what they'll be like with more power going through them.
  6. I think he may have been referring to 'backyard mechanics' where not many have a press.
  7. And don't forget that's USD too - so convert that plus shipping and you start to get fairly pricey - not $6K pricey but still not quite $240....
  8. Hmmmm mine have done that for years! Mine is more of a constant ticking. I thought it was a stick stuck in the abs sensor or something. Have never found out what it was. Did yours let go or did you replace before they did?
  9. Oh ok - so the bolt is not tight, it's stripped. If you're taking it to the mechanic, get them to fix the thread.
  10. I doubt they are through holes. So best you make sure you have the correct length bolt. Take the drain off and measure the depth of the hole. If you don't have a set of verniers, then you could just use a tooth pic - poke into hole and use your nail or a pen against the side of the tooth pic and the hole to mark the depth. Then make sure your bolt is no longer than that + the thickness of the flange. Ok re-reading your post, you say the bolt is tight but it won't do up anymore, but then you mention using a helicoil. Is the thread busted in the sump flange (cross threaded, stripped etc) or is the bolt too long? A helicoil isn't going to help if the bolt is just too long for the hole....
  11. By 'sump drain bolts' are you referring to the turbo oil drain and the 2 bolts that bolt it to the sump?
  12. Testing it before installation and testing it in place can give vastly different results. A lot of things could have happened during the install. Bent actuator arm, clocked turbo causing binding etc etc. Best to test it in place and confirm it still moves. If the wastegate isn't opening because of a bent arm or something, you're going to get all sorts of issues, some exactly as you're describing....
  13. If the wastegate is 'blowing open' then that would suggest you're not actually able to build boost. Possible that the wastegate is not opening at all? Have you got the solenoid plumbed around the correct way? What size spring have you got in the WG? Does the wastegate move freely? Without the car running, use compressed air and (GENTLY) apply a small amount of pressure and see if the wastegate actually opens. A bike pump is an easy way to do this - just don't be trying it with 50PSI (or +100PSI as most shop air systems run on) or you'll break things.
  14. Does it go into limp mode if you just cruise around and stay off boost?
  • Create New...