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Found 117 results

  1. Jordo C

    Fg Xr6t

    Got a 2010 fg Xr6t manual only have race valve springs and head studs. what else can I chuck in it for performance that doesn’t require a tune?
  2. Jordo C

    Fg Xr6t

    What mods can a fg Xr6t manual take with a stock intercooler (what can intercooler handle up to)
  3. Thought I'd make a thread of my modding journey, anyone who is keen to post their own journey is more than welcome! the rig end of last year ----- current - minus exhaust before current
  4. I started with a NA FG XR6 & ZF 6sp, auto and decided on a power upgrade rather than a car upgrade (hoping to save $$) which has gone south dramatically! I am after any suggestions or advise that may help the following... When I collected car the mechanic proceeded to tell me that he doesn't really know what he is doing with the FG as opposed to the B series. I was told by the guy to take it to a performance tune shop and have the motor "paired". No one had any clue and now I have the following issues; Car only engages P, R, N, D and doesn't change from 1st once put in D. Secondly is the driveline upgrades (tailshaft, diff) and how important they are? Next I have an issue with ABS brakes, shuddering and skidding (maybe a bad tube?) The security feature and factory config on old engine ecu have been turned off, no key FOB or safety features active. The boost controller? is apparently not wired up, but I am unsure what to look for or where to find it. I am fairly good with the parts side of it but I have no idea on turbos and what's required in regards to maintenance and repair. I really like the FG and hope this doesn't leave a bad taste. I feel as though a new car would have been cheaper, to this point I have spent about $8k and it doesn't seem to be getting any better. PLEASE HELP! I will help where I can in return. Aprreciate your help guys!
  5. Hi everyone, I currently own a G6eTurbo 2010 model with approximately 100,000 kms. I have done nothing to the car besides a rear muffler delete, besides this it is stock as a rock. The other week I was driving on an expressway travelling at about 100 kmh and then accelerated, not an overly hard acceleration but was overtaking someone so a reasonable push. As I put the power in the car lost power and flashed “Transmission fault” on the display. It put me into limp mode (3rd gear). I pulled over turned the car off and turned it back on and it appeared fine let me drive normally. I took the car into a mechanic and explained my problem but they said they couldn’t find any codes and they test drove the car which appeared fine to them. Since this I have tested the issue myself and found once the car hits operating temperature if I apply any hard acceleration after about 100 kmh the car immediately faults, limp mode, turn it off back on and it runs fine. I borrowed a reader and found the following code myself: DTC - P0735 - Transmission gear #5 incorrect ratio. DTC status: Continuous memory DTC. Has anyone had this issue or know what is going on with my car! I don’t want to keep mechanic shopping and being charged silly amounts to be told its fine. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  6. Hey guys & gals, I’ve had this 08’ FG XR6 for about 10 months .. no probs with the stereo until recently, started cutting out on bass notes, be it from the CD, radio music & even station ads , been doing it for about a week and now finally died .. note I don’t crank the volume high, & it has a sub box in the boot which still works when the head unit cuts out.. any ideas people?
  7. Thought I would post up here about my car on this forum after stalking for quite a while and becoming quite active on the "Other Forum" Have had my 2013 FG Xr6T for nearly two years now and have slowly been accumulating a few modifications for it. Had the final bits of work done a few weeks ago at MonstaTorque and managed to pull a final figure of 400.7rwkw. Que comments of hub dyno and manual The route I've taken with the car and many parts can probably be looked at as unconventional and excessive. As a young bloke about to venture into his first mortgage, I decided to spend the extra whilst I can afford it and build a relatively reliable base and future proof as far as more mods go as I plan to keep the car for a very long time. Unfortunately have not had the extra cash to do my oil pump gears or timing chain gear so am very aware of my need to stay away from my limiter and even have a soft cut in place (Although I've been told with this amount of torque these cars like to push straight through this) Bit of info on the car: - 2013 FG Xr6T - Full poverty pack - 6 Speed manual -Bought dead stock with 56,000kms from a single female owner 2 years ago Since then I've done a few mods over the past 2 years, totaling to the following now at 75,000kms - IMS Twin Bush Diff Hat - Wavetrack Diff Centre w/ aftermarket half shafts - Shockworks Coilovers - Single Piece Carbon Fibre Tailshaft - Malwood Opt3+ w/ short shifter - 4" X-force Stainless Exhaust - Jonny Tig 1800HP Stealth Black Intercooler w/ turboside airbox and battery relocations - Crow Race Valve Springs - KPM 1000HP In tank dual pump fuel system - 58mm Billet wheel Machined into my existing 3576 turbo, rear housing ported and a 40mm flapper fitted - 1000cc Injectors and custom tune with Ngauge interface - Copy F6 Bumper - 19" FPV Twisties - DJR Bobtail Spoiler Much like so many have done in the past with their threads, I want to be able to share any info I have on my current list of mods in the hopes it aids with people future mod choices. Any questions feel free to ask. Its gonna be a bit hard to post some photos as I'm writing this on my lunch break but will post a few via Tapatalk below Some quick photos from my phone
  8. hi guys im looking at upgrading my intercooler, are the HDI Hybird GT2 pro intercooler kits any good? $780. This is for a mate I work with. Thanks
  9. Ozkart13

    FG misfire

    Hi guys, After filtering through all the misfire related topics and find very few threads with actual resolutions I thought I'd start a new one. Basically my 09 FG G6e turbo started misfiring at WOT when at the strip the other night. 400rwkw running E85 to give an idea of mod level. The thing had done it before, when it did I took it back to the tuner where it got a service and retune and came out happy as. Has been running sweet for about 6 months now but the problem has returned and is far worse. Essentially when I am on hard boost it sounds like it has a very bad misfire and no power obviously. Originally it was just under WOT but on the way back from the track it got worse, occasionally misfiring while.cruising at 100kph and but the time I got home (100km later) struggling to idle without misfiring. With slight throttle it runs smooth as so I'm thinking it has to do with ignition as the extra voltage with slight throttle will help spark but as soon as any fuel or boost is dumped into the engine it misfires again. I am yet to talk to my tuner (will today) but will update this post, through to resolution so hopefully it can help out the next victim. Keen to here any ideas or similar stories. Cheers, Joel
  10. How's it going? Anyone know where or what wires are for the existing reverse camera, there is a 12 pin harness on the back of the icc there is more then the same colour and I need to solder in an rca cable with power to to connect my new icc stereo upgrade for reverse camera Fg series 2 2012
  11. What’s needed to change rocker cover on an na ba to the fg one? I’m told I’ll have to change either coils to fg ones or use something to keep the coils down from poping off while under load with the stock ba/bf coils and I’ll need to change the manifold? Thanks in advance
  12. So I disconnected my battery to change my light bolbs in my 2013 xr6 fg. When I connected it all back up and got into my car I noticed my display wasnt working. So I tired holding the power button waiting for a beep but no beep... actually I couldnt turn the radio off at all. All of my media functions dont work (bluetooth, AUX, phone), the only thing that works is the radio. Iv'e tried everything I can think of.
  13. My diff is a little sad and I'm looking for another one. Do any other models (au, ba etc.) Fit in the fg xr6? Thanks
  14. Hello all, I have been on a journey of around 8 years with my FG. I penned the information to a mate a while back who was considering an XR6T, but recently thought it might be worth sharing. Here is a list of issues and modifications with my FG. It has something like 130,000km on it now. Mid 2008 model. Bought it with 20,000km’s on it from a dealer. It was owned by the Church before (no joke) I actually called the original owner as his name and number in the service book. He was an older guy and he didn’t have any issues with it, said he liked it for overtaking. I have done all of the work on the car myself over the years. It was my daily driver for most of this time and the intention was to put together a good street package, this included handling and braking. I also wanted it to look as subdued as possible to not attract any attention, first thing I did was peel the turbo badge off when I brought it home. Set at standard XR6 ride height with stock rims and no tint, intercooler is also black. The only give away is the Harrop brake package. Issues, A/C is pretty unreliable these days, I think there was a HIM issue but it isn’t helped by the intercooler in front of the condenser. The cooler is 3’’ thick so airflow is pretty poor across the condenser. If anyone knows about a fix for this please let me know. Pretty much all of the suspension bushings standard are too soft. Early days the diff used to sound like it was hitting the floor pan if any wheel spin occurred. I replaced shocks and springs but it didn’t help. In the end I put super pro polyurethane diff bushings in it and it was sorted. All three bushings were done, it requires the entire rear cradle to be removed. Under warranty I got the dealer to put them in for me, they were going to put new standard ones in but I just handed them the polyurethane ones on the day. This resulted in more drive line noise but it was worth it. Front upper inner control arm bushings are a bit soft, I replaced these myself with super pro polyurethane as well. This is not a must but I guess it helps to get a better feel in the steering. Front caster camber kits, I put Kmac ones in that allow for a lot more adjustment than the shim ones. I was unimpressed with the quality of the welds on the Kmac kits, so much so that I ground all of the welds off and re welded with my mig at home. I was hesitant to throw it into a corner very hard with the bird sh*t welds they had. I am happy with them since my modification and I would still use them again because the design and adjustability is good. Brakes, absolutely hopeless stock, not a fade issue for me. It was just shudder as soon as they got hot, definitely never experienced any fade and I was pretty hard on it (twisty/hilly country roads) every day, this said I backed off early because of shudder which certainly detracted from the driving experience. I tried Ferodo pads with DBA slotted rotors, (not cross drilled as I believe the cross drillings lead to cracking). Still developed brake shudder after 5,000km, it was a bit different to the factory rotor issue, with DBA is was a higher frequency shudder but still crap. I actually hit DBA up under warranty, they were very good about it and actually took me on a factory tour in Silverwater when I returned the rotors, they gave me a new set straight off on the day, I tried with these again, same issue developed. There are so many theories as to why the Falcons suffer from brake shudder but none are proven that I know of. Some say it is because there is a small amount of rust scale on the hubs that means there is a little bit of runout on the rotor which then causes the rotors to wear unevenly (thicker and thinner areas around the circumference) however my measurements never showed this. I would also expect the shudder to be there all the time if this were the case, not just when hot, which was not the case. Others say it is incorrect pad transfer to the rotor, apparently the pads lay a layer of material on the rotor and if this is inconsistent then shudder will occur, don’t believe this either. I recon the rotors are not thermally stable and warp when hot and then return to shape when cold. I can pretty much confirm it wasn’t my hubs because my Harrop brakes are on the same hubs and have done around 30,000 km without any issue. More on the Harrop brakes later. Rear control blade bushings were very soft as well, I replaced these as part of my efforts to get rid of axle tramp, I think it was never just one specific fix for the tramp, it was a combination of diff bushings, control blade bushings and shock and spring rates helped as well. End of story was it was fixed in the end and I could drop skids anywhere dry or wet without the issue, not that this was a daily occurrence but at least I could take off from a standing start without it feeling/sounding like I was going to break something. Glovebox lid wasn’t square, common issue replaced under warranty. Manual gear knob is leather wrapped from factory, this stretched over time. Replaced under warranty. It has stretched again but it isn’t really an issue. I have replaced one front wheel bearing and one rear needs doing now, not all that noticeable unless really pushing in a corner, bit a a click can be heard. Stock tyres are not great, don’t get cheap tyres either, it makes a big difference to grip and stability. I had to run high pressures in cheap tyres to get the thing to be stable at speed because the sidewalls are too soft, this compromises traction so it is not the best way to approach the issue. Better quality tyres is where it is at, currently Nitto NT 05's 245/45/18 on standard rims. Clutch, stock this held OK until 90,000km which was around the time I was pushing more power. It was OK at 300 RWKW but once I was at 350 RWKW it started to slip a little in 5thand 6th gear WOT. Shocks and Springs, too soft stock. Mine might have been an earlier model which had softer rates in it, I recon some of the hire car ones I drove in later years were pretty good in comparison. In fact, remembering back the brakes on those were fine with regard to shudder but fade was an issue although it took quite a bit to fade them (and they were smaller than the turbo ones). From the above description, I don’t think there is much there that is a genuine warranty issue except the bushes and axle tramp and brakes. The rest is just a personal thing chasing a better handling package. Modifications, I tried a fair bit of stuff to get to where it is now, not worth listing it all though. The bit I would like to do extra would be tune for E85, bigger injectors to go with it and a second fuel pump. I just stayed with BP 98 because I like my country driving. Started with a PWR stepped intercooler now running a Nizpro intercooler and piping. Process west surge tank and bosch 044 fuel pump, likely to run 2x 044's in future if I play with E85. Plazmaman battery relocation kit K&N pod filter (the largest I could fit) hidden under a home fabricated stainless air box where the battery used to be. Bead blasted stainless, it looks a lot like the colour of the car (Lightning Strike) ID 1000cc injectors- Might need to go to something larger if I go E85. 4’’ dump pipe from turbo to cat, I fabricated this myself at home 3.5’’ exhaust from cat back 5’’ 100CPI cat (kind of a token gesture of a cat, to me there isn’t much in the 100CPI cat's really) Started out with the GT3576 stock FG turbo, this ran 300rwkw at best, it then developed a bearing noise. I believe this is common so I changed to a GT3582 and installed an Earls oil feed line to prevent the issue happening again (oil starvation due to clogging of the stock filter screen, although I didnt see anything on my screen when I removed it). The GT3582 made 350 rwkw and certainly livened the car up. Finally, I went with a Borg Warner EFR 9180 turbo installed on stock low mount manifold. I like keeping the cars looking as factory as possible. I can't say what power this is making because I have never put it on a dyno since the change. Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator, this was a must, the stock pressure regulator couldn’t relieve the full flow of the Bosch 044 pump which resulted in all sorts of idle quality issues due to the fuel pressure being too high at idle. Mal Wood clutch (Option 5) It is a twin plate with billet flywheel. Atomic engine oil pump. It is common (mainly manuals) for the pump to shatter with high HP applications. No limiter bashing or free revving the engine if you are still running a stock oil pump in a manual falcon. Tuning is being done by me with HP tuners VCM suite Harrop Monoblock brake kit front and rear, these are 355mm rotors all round. I chose these instead of their ultimate kit because they fit under my factory 18’’ wheels (only just). If you get the ultimate kit from them you need to run different wheels. Very happy with these, I have found them excellent in all conditions, quiet never squeal work well hot or cold, importantly no shudder. Tein EDFC Super Steet coilovers, these can be adjusted from the cabin for damping rates. If you feel really tricky they can be set up to change damping rate depending on G forces force on accel and decel and lateral automatically but I don’t use it. They can also adjust depending on speed, again I don’t use it. Mine are just set to middle setting and that is about right for rougher country roads. I have been very happy with the Tein set up. It really transformed the car. I was running Bilstein front shocks, with Koni adjustable rears and king springs. It was better than stock but I was never really happy with it. A side note here, I think lowering these cars much below standard XR6T ride height is actually detrimental to handling, this might be due to me being on rougher country roads but I have never been happy with any of my cars handling if they were too low. I don’t know how much power it makes these days with the EFR turbo on there. I have just tuned it myself on the street. Running about 25 PSI boost from 2500 rpm to redline. It can build boost earlier, say 10psi at 1900 rpm, 15 psi at 2200rpm. Something like that anyway, so for highway cruising it can make plenty enough power in 6th gear to not worry about changing gears while on cruise control. My guess is around 400rwkw as it certainly has a lot more top end than it did with the Gt3582, the old Garrett seemed to nose over at about 4500 RPM. Again only a guess on the power number. The good things stock, Diff, the M86 diffs are plenty strong enough and the LSD has copped plenty of abuse. Tailshaft has been fine in mine, again I dont drop the clutch on it or abuse it too much. Normally put it in a gear and them put the foot down. CV shafts are fine, I think this is the case unless drag racing with slicks and auto trans, street tyres just act as a fuse to protect the tailshaft and CV's. Tremec TR6060 transmission are about as good as you can get, no issues whatsoever Stock unopened engine, no issues there (although I am surprised it has held in there), still stock valve springs at 25psi boost, no issues. I think the issue with valve springs is if trying to run high boost with small turbos the back pressure from a small turbine can hold the exhaust valves from closing causing a miss. It even survived an oil pump failure, just shut it down immediately at the time, pulled it apart and picked all of the chunks of metal out of the sump, a little depressing really. Shot some petrol up the main oil gallery leaving the oil pump with a clean white rag ready to catch what flowed back at me, no metal pieces up there so all good. It has done at least 60,000km since with no issues. I did put together an insurance policy after that experience in the form of a second engine ready to go. It started as an FG N/A engine out of a wreck with only 700km on it. New exhaust valves, some mild port work and better valve seat angles, Atomic rods, cosworth pistons, main girdle, new bearings ect. Ready for the next phase of the cars life. Interior is good Seats are good Words of wisdom, if I was building from scratch again I would have skipped all the intermediate steps along the way and gone straight for the best components I could get first time around.
  15. I'm looking at getting a xr6 turbo, preferably 06 and upwards but still the ba/bf body, I want to get 500-550hp to the wheels but I dont know about a couple things and hope some of you know and can help me, 1. I've heard the bf 06 and onwards blocks are the typhoon blocks and are the stronger ones and are better to use? 2. Is the bf or fg engine better? Is the head different on the fg or what are the differences between the bf and fg block and head. 3. Can you put a t5 manual trans on a fg turbo engine? Then put that in the ba/bf body. 4. Any recommendations for the following parts? - forged pistons and rods to handle 800hp+ Valves and valve springs -what bottom end stuff like bearings ect would suit this kind of power? - could a fg head go onto the bf "typhoon block? Much appreciate any advice or comments that can answer these questions!!
  16. I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
  17. I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
  18. Hi I’m just wondering what turbos come out on the Barra motors like what there names are and what models they come out on and how many there are I’ve been told 4 but only know the ba I have a ba with 3540 now wanting to know the difference I have looked them up but I get a lot of different story’s
  19. Looking all over but cant find any aftermarket boot garnishes without the ford logo.. can anyone please point me in the right direction or make any suggestions. Anything will be much appreciated cheers https://www.google.com.au/search?q=fg+falcon+boot+garnish&client=ms-android-telstra-au&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjureKWi-ncAhWJurwKHVNUD7AQ_AUIESgB&biw=360&bih=612#imgrc=HI6WJxM1tCostM: So this but w/o the ford logo Will the BA/BF garnish fit??
  20. So I just got an external transmission cooler fitted to my FG. All went well I guess but I've now noticed its not revving to 6000rpm anymore in "Performance mode" It's revving to 5500 max now unless I manually shift. Not a huge deal but I'm wondering if anyone's experienced this issue too? *Yes the car was well warmed up*
  21. I've seen a few FG's running around that have had an FGX front end conversion done. Is it literally a straight swap over being that they are relatively the same platform? I know it would probably be easier to just buy an fgx but the turbo utes are holding their value. Wanting to know if I could just get a wrecked fgx and do a straight swap pretty much. Cheers Legends
  22. So ill start off with our car "XR6 Turbo" BF with an FG setup and over 440 rwkws was written off in an accident I had, now we have just acquired a rare XR6 NA with the ZF and in Chromaflair (Fantasy) with apparently 1000 made. We will put most of the running gear into this new car and start all over again. Each time we do some mods ill keep adding pictures of the build and if I run into any issues I'm sure this site and friends could help me. This is going to be one epic run and long process but where committed. Thanks Let the build begin
  23. Hey was just wondering what options there are out there for fg ute roller lids
  24. Hey All, Might be a stupid question but would factory HSV Brembo's or AP Racing brakes off any newer model HSV work on an fg xr6 turbo ute? Reason I ask is that I'm looking for a decent upgrade over stock and the stock brembo's off a vf ss are cheap for what they are second hand. I would imagine at a minimum you would need to get some dog legs made up. Is this worth it or should I go for a different set up? Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers
  25. Hey guys, I recently bought an 08 fg Ute and at idle it seems to rattle a little and is quite noticeable. when it’s in drive or neutral it’s doesnt rattle at all. Sounds like it’s underneath the car. Auto transmission and has 125000 kms cheers fellas


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