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Found 32 results

  1. Hi everyone, I currently own a G6eTurbo 2010 model with approximately 100,000 kms. I have done nothing to the car besides a rear muffler delete, besides this it is stock as a rock. The other week I was driving on an expressway travelling at about 100 kmh and then accelerated, not an overly hard acceleration but was overtaking someone so a reasonable push. As I put the power in the car lost power and flashed “Transmission fault” on the display. It put me into limp mode (3rd gear). I pulled over turned the car off and turned it back on and it appeared fine let me drive normally. I took the car into a mechanic and explained my problem but they said they couldn’t find any codes and they test drove the car which appeared fine to them. Since this I have tested the issue myself and found once the car hits operating temperature if I apply any hard acceleration after about 100 kmh the car immediately faults, limp mode, turn it off back on and it runs fine. I borrowed a reader and found the following code myself: DTC - P0735 - Transmission gear #5 incorrect ratio. DTC status: Continuous memory DTC. Has anyone had this issue or know what is going on with my car! I don’t want to keep mechanic shopping and being charged silly amounts to be told its fine. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  2. Hi everyone, I’m Johnny. Just wonder where should I get my tuned FG XR6 Turbo ( ~ 300 rwkws) serviced? At a local Ford dealer or at a well-known tuning shop? I purchased the car a few months ago from a local private owner (its first owner) with 95000 kms on the odo. All modifications and tuning had been done by the previous owner when he first bought the car. He had it done at a wellknown independent local Ford tuning workshop and he kept servicing the car at this workshop every 5000 kms for more than 7 years. Ok now because I live a bit far away from that workshop, should I service my car at the local Ford dealer (very close to my house) or I have to bring the car back to where it was tuned? I dont mind about the cost of service. I like the way how the car is running right now, smooth, quiet and very fast and I want to keep it that way at all time. Any advice? Cheers.
  3. Hi everyone sorry for my shocking spelling but am typing this off my phone. Hi everyone I have a 2003 Ford ba Futara wagon and I am in the process of turboing it anyways iv been seeing a lot of people slapping turbos on the na fords and thought to myself what a good idea. soniv done some research on the topic and watched countless amounts of videos on it and also hearing a lot of success story’s on all the forums, so I decided to give it ago as I have mechanical knowledge I decided to give it my best shot. I acquired all if not more than enough parts to get this working. so a week ago I started to dismantle the engine and I removed the whole n/a parts and have replaced everything with turbo running gear from a donor car I have then installed turbo, dump pipe, fuel pressure reg, drivers side loom steering Colum, radio and blue box cars main computer in engine bay and attached the 3rd plug for the turbo computer, 2 bar maf sensor and have kept the n/a engine loom but have hard wired and matched the colours for the 2 bar maf sensor. I am using the factory crossover and Bov I have all turbo intercooler piping installed and sensors. im using factory coils and plugs. key and remote have been matched to the car and locks and unlocks. anyways I have tried to start my ba and it goes to fire but then stalls, it fires once then nothing it won’t stay idleing I have tried to diagnose what the hell is wrong with it but no luck. everything seems to be right? Iv tried to run the na computer and no maf at all but still nothing? local mechanic said if I have all the computers keys and parts from same car there shouldn’t be an issue with it... sorry guys dragging on a in a bit but trying to explain in as much detail as possible when I go to start the car it fires up but dies. do I need to get a sct flash tool? or anybody have had this problem before?
  4. Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
  5. Hi guys, just done my first mod on my 2011 XR6 fg.I ( car was fully stock)... fitted a $650 combo pack from ss inductions including cold air intake and growler. Wondering what other affordable mods I can do apart from fitting a catback exhaust. Looking to increase sound, power, torque ect ( all that good stuff ) Just wanting some feedback on what the next mods I should do. Thanks everyone !
  6. Hey peeps! So I have a pretty bad vibration in my car. The rear diff bushes are f**ked... I wont have the money for a couple of months to fix it properly, so im just looking for a quick fix/ temp fix. Would using apoxy or something be alright for abit?
  7. Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
  8. Looking for something different, we are seeking the right person to join our team here at CMS, applicants must be fully qualified including having there own tools & drivers licence, Ford knowledge preferred but not essential, work will include general mechanical repairs & performance modification, All emails to be sent to sales@cmssydney.com.au moderators feel free to repost this add if not in the right section thanks joe also I have no idea how this was posted up as puffwagon??
  9. Hi All, Still being a newbie I just had a question to ask. Are the rear shocks as simple to change as I think they are. Is it basically just remove the tire to get it out of the way, basically a nut at the top of the shock and a nut at the bottom or something along those lines ?? Instead of paying a mechanic I wanna try it myself, mates have told me its piss easy, should be a good experience for me.
  10. Hi Guys, I'm fairly new to this page and fairly new to fords. I bought my first ford, Ford XR6 FG Upgrade Limited Edition 2011 model, off of my mate beginning of this year. I recently started to hear a rattle noise from my car each time I accelerated when I was in town house area but wouldn't hear the noise much in an open freeway/motorway. The mechanic told me that the muffler has collapsed and that I need to change the muffler, now I'm not too smart on cars and how things work, I just wanted to ask, the muffler, is that held on by bolts (mechanic said so) or is that welded on? and if it is held on by bolts, would I be able to change it on my own ? And also is it possible to just buy a muffler ?
  11. Hi, I am looking to purchase an 03 N/A BA xr6, -5 speed manual -Black -Pacemaker extractors -Pod Filter -Slotted Rotors -FPV Rims and steering wheel -Herrod front grill -Twin tip exhaust -Is set up to run nos -Flash tuner with 3 tunes, one labelled as C&V Tune - GJA-240 I'm looking to see if anyone has any knowledge on the background of this car or what work has been done. Its too quick to have stock internals but I'm not sure. Thanks!
  12. Just wondering if anyone knows the torque specs for the tail shaft coupling/flex joint for a 2012 Falcon FG Xr6 Turbo Auto. Been searching on the forums and haven't been able to find any torque specs as of yet. If I can't find any I might just do it up to my own standard of bloody tight. I had a look for commodores and its 75-85 for one model but 115 for another, so I'm really unsure :/ any help is appeciated, cheers! Edit: 75-85nm or 115nm
  13. Hi Guys, Been a while since I've posted but loving the car so far, retune will happen mid-year hopefully but until then I'm trying to get it up to scratch in every other way. My front end is apart as I realised one of the factory hot pipes (rubber) has perished due to oil (see:little splits/cracks hardening etc.) so a guy locally had a full factory second hand set up on gumtree so I bought the lot. Sadly he recently lost his car due to mistaken identity (jerks). Gave me a lot of good info as his BF Turbo was in pristine condition. Now I have the entire front end of the car apart/exposed, are there any items people would recommend changing/checking whilst I'm here? I've heard the Boost control solenoid usually could use a clean or check and I'm generally going to check all the hoses and bolts that I can. Key fact here is that I am still able to get very cheap parts and things that would normally be very expensive I may have the ability to still get at a good price(aftermarket). Loved that Ford still sell the duct (oversized rubber rad hose) for new @ $320 I can post pics of how apart I've got it if anyone would like me to. cheers. Nathan
  14. Was wondering if anyone has any idea what this clicking sound could be? noticed it when my car was idling the other day while I was at a friends. Thanks IMG_0807.MOV
  15. hey guys welcome to my blog on the modifying of my 2008 FG falcon XT. this car was a recent purchase for me and is my first car. I have a lot on the list of things I would like to do, like swapping the XT interior for the better XR interior, lowering springs, tinting the windows and so fourth. I hope you will have fun following along with me on this story as I will be having working on it. if you have any suggestion or have ideas on how I could do things better feel free to comment. thanks!
  16. Hello I'm about to buy either a G6ET or XR6T in about 5 months time. Considering they're the same price, which one would you choose and WHY? Also, is the G6ET slower than the XR6T to 100km/hr because the lack of LSD? From what I have gathered on other sites, there is not much of a difference.. but the only difference is racing around a track and hanging 'better skids'. - PS, I don't intend on racing around a track or skidding, so would LSD really make that much of an impact in everyday driving? I would give it a go if a Expensive Daewoo SS/GTS or anything else tried to overtake me though. Thaks
  17. New Ford GT fellas! Looks pretty sexy. "The Ford GT is back. And then some. Taking all the headlines at the Detroit motor show - and confirming some tasty rumours that have been rumbling for a little while now - is the third iteration of Ford's supercar. And gone is the supercharged V8 of old, replaced by an Ecoboost engine. Fear not, though, as it still packs a proper amount of cylinders. A twin-turbo 3.5-litre V6 engine drives the rear wheels with ‘more than' 600bhp, and with motorsport development behind it, Ford is claiming great efficiency. Of course, it's performance we care about. Nothing's confirmed in that area just yet, but a 0-60mph time close to 3.0secs and a top speed north of 200mph ought to be very feasible targets. There's plenty to help it on its way too, with lots of carbon fibre to keep the weight down. A carbon passenger cell, a la McLaren 650S and P1, is joined by carbon in chassis components too. "The GT will exhibit one of the best power-to-weight ratios of any production car", Ford promises. Aerodynamics play a huge role, as you may be able to tell from styling way more intricate and involved than the rather retro-tastic GT of ten years ago. Keeping pace with its key rivals - and with Ferrari's spectacular 458 clearly in mind - there are active aero elements, including a rear wing whose height and angle react to speed and conditions. Other goodies? There's racing-inspired pushrod suspension, adjustable ride height and upward-swinging doors. The old GT's manual transmission is gone, rather inevitably replaced by a seven-speed paddleshifter, while the driver environment very much takes its cues from what Ferrari's currently doing; a fully customisable instrument display sits behind a steering wheel free of stalks but festooned with buttons, while the seat is fixed, the pedals and wheel adjustable instead. You have to admit, it looks brilliant. It'll land at some point in 2016, by which time the new turbo 458 and 911 GT3 RS will be here, as well as the new Honda NSX and McLaren Sports Series. What a group test that would be..." http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/ford-gt-detroit-motor-show-2015-01-12
  18. Looking at putting 1.5-2" lowering blocks in the back end. It's a 2008 fg xr6 turbo. I'm unsure if I have to change shocks and a few other things, and I've also heard that it doesn't do no good to the tail shaft
  19. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "YEOWW SHOOOT...." ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. Most often the tool used by all women BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 inch socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit. It snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
  20. Hey Guys, First off I'm looking to buy a first car that I can work on and muck around with and do up how I please, I've always been predominately Ford man ( Not to say that I don't like Holdens') but for a first car I want it to be meaningful and what better way to do this then to buy an XR6!! But I'm tossing and turning over the issue of a Ute or a Sedan, I've seen good mods and ideas for both but what better than to ask people who know about it! So please give me your thoughts, pros, cons and all the good stuff Enjoy!
  21. Hey guys, the name is Sam I just stumbled across this forum and thought, what a great place to get advice, I'm don't know too much about cars due to being new to the car scene. I just turned 18 two days ago, I own a 2003 BA xr6, everything is stock currently. I have been driving this xr6 since I first started on my L plates, I know the car fairly well. However I'd like more power. I am starting to look at exhausts and extractors.. Is there any other things I could do to look at some decent power increases? Please include brands that you would recommend. Please no comments like "if you want power get an xr6 turbo" or "just wait for yours full license"... It's my money and I'd like to spend it on what makes me happy Cheers. - Sam PS. attaching a photo of my Baby
  22. hello all so my now that ive had my xr tuned up, affected my warranty, now the problems start to flood in!! 2 years stock,3 months with 300kw now its gotta desont list of problems turbo manifold bolt broken 858.00 timing cover oil leak 1381.12 replace rear dif mounts/ bushes, diff reseal and replace left hand rear diff out put seal 1605.31 turbo leaking oil 82.50 front brake pads 236.04 total $4162.97 my plan is to go em for warranty I haven't touched the turbo or the manifold or the timing cover , I have increased power so I might leave out the diff and the bushes wont be covered anyway and ill do the brakes my self .ill get Aitkenvale auto and dyno to do the rest they said itll be about 800-1000 to do the diff so what does everyone think of the prices they quoted I think its very expencive and could some one please tag a link on hear so I can have a look at whats involved in resealin the timing belt cover thanks you help is appreciated
  23. Hi Everyone, Checkout www.trackdayclub.com.au We run street car focused track days to enjoy cars like ours! It's a great opportunity to drive fast, hang out with like minded people and test your car. The next track day is Saturday August 24th 2013 Included is the morning track walk, Driver coaches, who will ride with you and share their expertise, timing and un-timed passengers sessions, morning tea and we also run a dedicated session for the girls. Our aim is to create a club environment of passionate car people and to provide a respectful arena to drive our pride and joy. If you have any questions please let me know
  24. Hi Ive just got a stock 2010 fg xr6 turbo now I wanna mod it. Its only done 47xxx Kms what should I do and what brands should I get please help thanks. .Flash tune .injectors .fuel pump .exhuast .intercooler .vavle springs
  25. Hey guys.. Just a quickie.....Is it worth the money Dynamating the front doors in a BF Ute. I do have a set of MB Quartz splits with a 10" sub in the back tray. I've heard people say it makes a huge difference. What is this difference they're refering to.


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