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Found 70 results

  1. Want to know rough power figures I can expect from get my ba xr6 turbo it has a sports 2half inch cat back. Is getting 1000cc Bosch injector walbro 460 in tank pump bigger cooler 3inch piping same as plazmaman stage 2 with a under headlight intake.and fitting crow valve springs and retainers only thing I can't really add to the budget is a bigger zaust how does everyone think shell go also a good tuner in Brisbane was planning on going to to real dyno redcliff.
  2. Hello everyone. Trying to troubleshoot a problem with my Turbo that about has me ready to burn the thing. Any application of throttle more than a half pedal and I loose all power and the ETC light comes on. If I slow to a stop the car idles surging with no throttle. Key off and on and you're good to go. I've replaced the throttle body to no avail, should I replace the pedal? Cheers.
  3. Iv got a 03 xr6 turbo with 4speed auto we have just replaced the intake plenum gasket as it blows one every month or so. I went to start it an it cranks over like it wants to start but then sends a single backfire out the exhaust. Iv tested for spark an it only sparks after I stop cranking it over its got us really lost any help would be awesome cheers
  4. Hey guys and gals I have just recently purchased some second hand 4 spot Brembos off a Falcon thinking they would go straight on my Turbo Terry but not the case. I have seen them on a few Territories but no one seems to have an off the shelf bracket set up I can buy
  5. Hey there, Just wondering if anyone has the torque settings for the FG Turbo manifold? + If anyone has a whole booklet of the torque settings for the FG Turbo Falcon
  6. Xr6 keeps unlocking doors,any one please help,regards Rory,new member
  7. Hi guys, I have a bone stock manual 2005 XR6 Turbo Ute, done 97000ks. I'm occasionally getting a "misfire" of sorts when under load in 3rd or 4th gear. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does, its at about ~4000rpm in 3rd or 4th gear only, happens whether I'm WOT or just cruising up the rpms, seems to be when it's at full boost. When it occurs, the rpms drop instantly back to about 2000-3000 and I have no input with the accelerator. If I try to accelerate it just stays at about 2000ish rpm and the engine sounds like its "out of sync" for lack of a better term. I either have to turn the car off and on again, or put it in neutral (still moving) blip the accelerator a couple times, put in back in a gear and the engine just "gets back in sync" and starts revving normally again. I've searched the forums and have tried a few suggestions. I've had my mechanic replace the intake manifold gasket, spark plugs and coils but it has made no difference. It's hard for a mechanic to diagnose because they test drive it and it's fine or they can't get it to do it so they can only suggest parts to change based off the problem I'm describing. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Cheers.
  8. Hey fellas, Diff in my BF XR6 Ute had started doing some whine and I am planning on swapping it. Just need some advice. It has the 3:45 LSD with the one piece tailshaft. I purchased another complete diff *wheel to wheel* from the BF XR6 Turbo ute which is the 3:46 LSD and it had the 2 piece tailshaft. Now, the yoke is different obviously and caliper, rotor size etc. Will it fit if I just carry over the yoke from my diff onto the 3:46? Cheers
  9. Hey I Brought A Futura With A XR6 Turbo Motor Converted Into It. Drives Fine But It When It Goes Into Boost It Feels Like It Starts Going Into Boost Then Stops And Shudders Like Traction Controls Is On Or Something And Don't Feel Like Boost Is Even On Any Ideas On What's Happening And There Are A Few Vacuum Lines I Don't Know Where They Go Will Add Pics
  10. Hi everyone, I just brought my car to a local specialist for a steering and suspension check and I was advised that my front upper control arms bushes are broken ( yea I can slightly feel my steering is a bit soft). Now I’m thinking to get the Superpro upgrades kit online by myself but I’m not sure which ones I should get? The whole brand new Superpro upper control arm assembly kits ($395/pair) or just the Superpro bushes ($190/pair)? The local mechanic would charge me $350 for the labour if I bring my own brand new control arms. Otherwise it would be more than $900 if they supply me the parts (Superpro-Control Arm Lower Assembly Kit and Superpro Control Arm Upper Assembly Kit - Polyelast Bushes) + $550 labour. I prefer high quality products that can last very long. What do you guys think? Cheers.
  11. Hi everyone, I’m Johnny. Just wonder where should I get my tuned FG XR6 Turbo ( ~ 300 rwkws) serviced? At a local Ford dealer or at a well-known tuning shop? I purchased the car a few months ago from a local private owner (its first owner) with 95000 kms on the odo. All modifications and tuning had been done by the previous owner when he first bought the car. He had it done at a wellknown independent local Ford tuning workshop and he kept servicing the car at this workshop every 5000 kms for more than 7 years. Ok now because I live a bit far away from that workshop, should I service my car at the local Ford dealer (very close to my house) or I have to bring the car back to where it was tuned? I dont mind about the cost of service. I like the way how the car is running right now, smooth, quiet and very fast and I want to keep it that way at all time. Any advice? Cheers.
  12. Hi everyone sorry for my shocking spelling but am typing this off my phone. Hi everyone I have a 2003 Ford ba Futara wagon and I am in the process of turboing it anyways iv been seeing a lot of people slapping turbos on the na fords and thought to myself what a good idea. soniv done some research on the topic and watched countless amounts of videos on it and also hearing a lot of success story’s on all the forums, so I decided to give it ago as I have mechanical knowledge I decided to give it my best shot. I acquired all if not more than enough parts to get this working. so a week ago I started to dismantle the engine and I removed the whole n/a parts and have replaced everything with turbo running gear from a donor car I have then installed turbo, dump pipe, fuel pressure reg, drivers side loom steering Colum, radio and blue box cars main computer in engine bay and attached the 3rd plug for the turbo computer, 2 bar maf sensor and have kept the n/a engine loom but have hard wired and matched the colours for the 2 bar maf sensor. I am using the factory crossover and Bov I have all turbo intercooler piping installed and sensors. im using factory coils and plugs. key and remote have been matched to the car and locks and unlocks. anyways I have tried to start my ba and it goes to fire but then stalls, it fires once then nothing it won’t stay idleing I have tried to diagnose what the hell is wrong with it but no luck. everything seems to be right? Iv tried to run the na computer and no maf at all but still nothing? local mechanic said if I have all the computers keys and parts from same car there shouldn’t be an issue with it... sorry guys dragging on a in a bit but trying to explain in as much detail as possible when I go to start the car it fires up but dies. do I need to get a sct flash tool? or anybody have had this problem before?
  13. Hey guys im new to the forum after some help.. I bought this 2005 Ba mk2 Turbo about a month ago off a dealer in sydney with no logbooks or proper info about the car (sigh) From a service sticker on the windscreen.. the mechanics location has led me to belive the previous owner may have lived in Wollongong.. The car has quite a bit of work done to it It had a CVPerformance sticker on the front of the engine (guessing it was tuned by them maybe) Just hoping somone will be able to recognise the car and help me get in touch with the previous owner to get a little more info on the car THANKYOU! -barry
  14. Hey guys looking for what 4 speed toploaders will suit an xr6t, I have a 1986 xf falcon with a barra turbo swap im putting in it with 512hp at the rear TIA
  15. I'm looking at getting a xr6 turbo, preferably 06 and upwards but still the ba/bf body, I want to get 500-550hp to the wheels but I dont know about a couple things and hope some of you know and can help me, 1. I've heard the bf 06 and onwards blocks are the typhoon blocks and are the stronger ones and are better to use? 2. Is the bf or fg engine better? Is the head different on the fg or what are the differences between the bf and fg block and head. 3. Can you put a t5 manual trans on a fg turbo engine? Then put that in the ba/bf body. 4. Any recommendations for the following parts? - forged pistons and rods to handle 800hp+ Valves and valve springs -what bottom end stuff like bearings ect would suit this kind of power? - could a fg head go onto the bf "typhoon block? Much appreciate any advice or comments that can answer these questions!!
  16. Thought I'd put up a build thread so hopefully I stay on the right track, keep motivated and do some learning/helping. Car is an 03 BA XR6t 5 spd manual and leather interior Yes I know not the best platform to start with motor and gearbox wise, but bought cheap enough with the intention to at least change to 6 spd. Purchased about a month ago and already has the following mods: Plazmaman Stage 1 Intercooler Process West Crossover Pipe Kit Battery relocation to right hand side with copper-core welding cables used. Plazmaman Sheet metal airbox with 4” K&N filter VENOM twin 2.5" Exhaust VENOM 3.5" Cat Fabricated Tig welded oil catch can with K&N filter Turbo bored out with larger flapper valve Turbosmart wastegate actuator with 10psi spring In tune Motorsport turbo oil filter installed Walbro GSS342 255lph SN95 Mustang Quickshifter with adjustable stops, stainless lever and carbon knob Custom carbon gear lever surround 19” OX Racing OX111 wheels Lowered on King Springs and Munroe dampers Nolathane Polyurethane bush kit Including diff bushes DJR Bobtail spoiler HID headlights Projector headlamp conversion Also came with an SCT xcal 3 flash tuner Body is a bit untidy and needed bigger injectors and tune. Pics from when I got it Few things I already found I needed to fix. Had a few oil leaks. First one I found from the oil return into sump. One of the bolts that holds the flange on was stripped so I put a helicoil (thread insert) in. So I left the oil in until I finished drilling and tapping the hole out, used grease on drill and tap to prevent swarf going into sump, but dropped the oil and flushed afterwards just in case. Replaced sump plug with a new one from Repco, which happens to have a 15mm head on it. WTAF??? Who the feck does that. Damaged thread. Sorry don't have after shots. Noticed PS hose leaking too. So gave everything a good degrease Wanted to change the coolant reservoir/overflow and wanted to check what spring was in the wastegate actuator. Didn't look too hard to do, and after little reading on here and another forum saw some people having a hard time with it and taking turbos and manifolds off. Anyway pulled the coolant reservoir out, removed the dump pipe, cross over pipe, oil feed and coolant supply to turbo and hose to actuator. Check out my sweet light setup! Removed the bolts for the actuator bracket, bottom one is slow only using an open end spanner. Pushed actuator back so I could see the R clipholding the clevis onto the flapper valve arm. Got my seal pick in the end of clip and pulled it out. Yes it snapped. Then squeezed the actuator out of the bay, it's tight but got it. Found it had a 10psi spring, not a 12 like I originally thought. Reinstalling just same as above but in reverse. Make sure you push actuator back as far as you can, open wastegate, and put clevis back on arm. I just used a new E clip. This is where you can check the actuator rod preload. Push the bracket forward towards the turbo and that gap should be the preload of 2mm. Bigger gap in pic as I wasn't holding it up. Bottom bolt on bracket could be tricky. I just gripped the head with long nose pliers, got it sitting in the hole, then put pressure behind the head with the pliers and got it started with the open end spanner. All back together Had to replace the vent hose to catch can as it was so hard and brittle. Have a big roll of the blue air/chemical hose so just used that. Will change to black hose and the catch can at some point. Sorry for the story. Will be updating tomorrow, I mean today/tonight. Thanks for looking... if you got this far lol
  17. Hi everyone well I already own a wrecked ba xr6t with all parts perfect except right hand door and dashboard and have a ba xr6 that needs new engine trans rear sub frame now that parts sorted. After I swap my engine rear sub frame and transmission into the standard xr6 can I just swap computers and turn it on or do I have to change all my looms as well ?? Please help
  18. Hi lads, I have had my fg xr6T for over a year now and have just started getting some mods underway and need some parts fitted and also get a tune done and loaded onto my SCT X4 flash tuner. I currently have the following, Turboback exhaust- 4” dump 4” body ( 3” high flow cat) to 3.5 from the catback walbro 460- needs to be installed crow cam- valve spring and retainer kit ( needs to be fitted ) Xspurt 1000cc injectors ( needs to be installed) stock cooler- pipes replaced with intune Motorsport steel piping kit I’ve heard good things about jetsturbo ( JD tuning) and Ammr dyno but which one would you recommend? And what power should I expect with these mods and a standard intercooler? Cheers Dan
  19. Recently swapped my VZ + cash for a 2003 5 speed Manual BA XR6T  Body and paint are clean. However mechanically not so great.  Thrust Bearing whines and he suspects the gearbox needs replacing. It was a tad noisy, but drove ok. It also came with a new gearbox. How much labour am I looking at to replace the gearbox? The clutch pedal felt spongeyish as if there was air in the system or something, but seemed to shift gears fine.  As I got home I noticed there was no pressure in the coolant system (tested top rad hose) and she was bubbling and gurgling. Hoping it's just the top rad cap..  Checked the oil for any milkyness and it was clean so head gasket should be ok.  Now I haven't driven one of these, but she came on boost strong and pulled hard till about 3500rpm, then it seemed to drop and be a steady curve all the way through the rev range.  Just felt too slow for me I thought she'd have a bit more beans than that. Could be a blown turbo possibly?  Also, on idle she's a bit shakey (motor) old engine mounts maybe? And the revs go up and down very very marginally on idle like 50rpm tops.  I have driven the car to my nans place and that was it. I'm going to have a good look over her tomorrow and give you guys some feedback but this is all I've got so far..  I will record a video tomorrow of me driving the car I'll do a few pulls see what you guys think.  Cheers.  /
  20. Does anybody know or can measure the exact tailgate “xr6 turbo” placement as there is no falcon badge to line up with. cheers
  21. hay mechanics, automotive engineers and anybody who knows more than me about race/track cars. So track day with my Mitsubishi 2.5 Twin Turbo and I blew a turbo because when you go round a corner really fast all the oil goes to the side of the sump and the turbo got no oil (apparently) track day with Expensive Daewoo SS VE 6 Litre V8 similiar problem, engine overheated and engine warning light kept coming on while driving around the track because oil pump couldnt pump oil out of the sump because oil was sloshing around the sides of the sump. Never had any problems with Nissan Skyline and or my GTR but anyway, No more Mitsis Nissans or Holdens. I'm a Ford guy now!!!!!!! I'm about to do a track day in my FG XR6 Turbo (it is stock standard (just the way Ford made it)) (future mods coming (I only just bought it)) My questions is: What measures should I take to ensure I don't blow a turbo or starve the engine of oil? Any pre-track modifications I should do to make sure the engine will be safe and reliable for a day of hard and quick driving around the track. Any advice appreciated.......
  22. So ill start off with our car "XR6 Turbo" BF with an FG setup and over 440 rwkws was written off in an accident I had, now we have just acquired a rare XR6 NA with the ZF and in Chromaflair (Fantasy) with apparently 1000 made. We will put most of the running gear into this new car and start all over again. Each time we do some mods ill keep adding pictures of the build and if I run into any issues I'm sure this site and friends could help me. This is going to be one epic run and long process but where committed. Thanks Let the build begin
  23. Hi guys, was wondering if anyone on her enew anyone in’s adelaide SA that’s good for zf transmission services and what price I would be looking at?
  24. I have an option of 2 cars im incredibly stuck on... 2008 FPV f6 with 100,000km ($26,000) or 2015 FGX xr6 turbo with 50,000km ($30,000) The FPV f6 will retain a lot of its value and its already modified a bit and making 300rwkw (about $2500 worth of mods), and it has brembo brakes and simply the FPV badge. Where as the FGX is the newer car, under warranty, and its just a fresh new car that not many people have atm. And I really do love the new FGX front design with the lights. Where as the fpv's have been around for a while now and every person has modded them and stuff, so I can be a bit more original and stand out more in the fgx? I have driven both and they both drive really well. Just unsure which one to buy. I do plan on keeping the car for a while. Just wondering of the 10 year old FPV is too old now, and whether its 'smarter' tobuy the new car despite it being much more subtle than the FPV. Eventually I will modify both and want them to stand out as much as possible. So torn apart help!!!!!!!!!
  25. hey guys I have a problem with my 52 mm gauges for some reason my gauges wont stay mounted into the saas pod has anyone else had this issue? and help would be great


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