Bawwxay

Can anyone tell them what the offset of 17” FG G6E rims are? they are the ones that have 10 spokes but very close together in twos like a “V”. Lol 😆

Thanks for the replies, I need to get new tyres for the rims, which I’m doing tomorrow and of all things the impact gun was flat so instead of test fitting all four rims I just checked one rear 😆 hopefully they don’t touch under load, I’m fairly certain no suspension/brake component that’s close to the rim would move separately from the rim, otherwise there would be no “fitment” or “stance” lol

Even on the rear? it could possibly be the tow control arm bolt sits about 2mm inside the inner of the rim, doesn’t touch though. It’s the bolt closest to the rim, towards the front of the rear rotor. my 20’s have about 5 inches clearance in this same spot. I just don’t want to scrape the inside of the rim lol

G’day, Today I went over a stupid unsigned pipe in the middle of the road and buckled my clean deep dish 20’s that I run on My Ba XR6 Turbo, so when I got home I decided to test fit some 17x8 G6E rims that I had lying about thinking I could run them whilst my 20’s get repaired. when putting the 17”s on the rear of the car and checking for any issues, I noticed a bolt that’s to do with the rear suspension/ lower control arm (if they have them at the rear lol) that sits about 2mm away from the inside of the rim due to their offset. Is this an issue if I go over bumps or will the bolt/rim be one unit and not touch while going over bumps etc? I would upload the pics but don’t know how to turn a pic into a url lol 🤓

Thanks for that! where I am located, the amount of vehicles driving around with no cat and straight pipes on every 6, 8 and even 4 you can think of will make a single straight through muffler set up seem quiet in the eyes of legality 😂

Hello I was just wondering whether the BA MKII XR6 Turbo rear muffler on the twin pipe system is a straight through muffler or not, as I have a middle muffler delete and like the sound just want more sound lol, was wondering whether I got a straight through rear muffler it would have a little more burble than the factory rear muffler? thanks

PUFF You are a bloody legend! the manifold bolts were only hanging on by a thread and 3 of the 4 turbo flange bolts were loose too. Ticking noise is no more! appreciate the help!

Thanks for the reply! Is this a common thing to just “occur” at any given point in time? it’s a horrendous noise when accelerating in boost but definitely doesn’t sound anything like knock, valve float or even lifter tick. It sounds exactly like a more pronounced, louder injector “tick” that the Barras normally make. could it potentially be just a minor exhaust leak further down as I stupidly didn’t change the gaskets when doing a mid muffler delete months ago as the old ones were glued with so much RTV that I needed to sand them off.?

I have recently noticed a rhythmic ticking noise coming from the front of My Ba Xr6, it almost sounds as if there is a pebble stuck in the tyre. It is most noticeable while driving at around 80km/h, especially with concrete walls or metal barricades on either side of the car, the last two days it has progressively got louder especially when starting to move and giving it some beans, the noise seems to increase in severity/pace with tyre speed but only in boost. the only thing I could think of was that the new tyres I had put on when balanced had tap on weights on the inside that might be touching the control arms, took them off for now, still the same noise. Very noticeable inside and outside the cabin. There is no “ticking” noise from the engine when stationary, at idle or at any rpm’s with no load. I can also still hear it when I am travelling, put the car in neutral and let the revs drop to idle revs. any ideas? thanks

Hello, I recently noticed that the dual horns on My BA xr6 sedan had been removed, I have located the horns and would like some help installing them as I have no idea what the horn wiring is supposed to look like, apparently the previous owner tucked it away in the engine bay somewhere. the horns themself are connected via a single wire and that’s all. They have two bolts on each horn.

Thanks for that mate! it says on the SK20R7 Gas Plugs in the description that they will not suit turbo applications.? Also are all the plug fittings the same despite the different BA Barras silver top, red top, green top etc?

That’s why I’m after some iridium plugs I just didn’t know which ones to get as it’s a turboed NA motor (silver top), would the NGK FR6E-11 be fine? They are the ones NGK say suit a red top. currently running 10psi on a gt3582 stock xr6 turbo ecu. heard 0.8mm is the gap to go, opinions on that also? Thanks for the replies so far 👍

Thanks for the reply! Well the gas plugs are the same as the 240T plugs NGK FR6EI-11, what gap should I be using?

G’day everyone, first poster here. just thought I would make a post to get some more information regarding spark plug replacement. I recently turboed a 2004 NA BA Barra 182 and was curious as I’m about to replace the spark plugs whether I should stick with NA spark plugs (NGK FR5EI-13 Iridium) or go with the 240t spark plugs (NGK FR6EI-11 Iridium)? Obviously the gapping would be different on the two and whether the 240T plugs will even fit/be a more viable option?