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I'm dealing with an issue on my 2003 BA turbo manual where the fuel pump relay is not getting a trigger signal from the PCM. The car is tuned with an SCT flash tuner, but this was done years ago, this issue is only recent. The fuel pump does not get a signal from the PCM to prime or run. Sometimes disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reset will fix it, sometimes it won't, but eventually it stops working and won't work again until reset. The fuel pump and all its wiring after the fuse box is fine, the car runs without issue if I bridge out the fuel pump relay with a jumper wire. I have swapped and tested multiple relays and changed the inertia switch, didn't fix it. The wires between the PCM and the fuel pump relay are fine (<1ohm), and all the PCM pins and connectors look fine, so I'm convinced the PCM isn't opening the ground signal to open the fuel pump relay (it does have 12v on the coil side). When it happens it throws code P0230 fuel pump relay primary circuit malfinction. Has anyone encountered this before and has any idea where to look next? Is my PCM dead? Any advice is appreciated, thanks
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Hey all, I have a 04 Ba Xr6T (with BTR gearbox). Looking at getting up to 300rwkw. Car is currently stock as a rock, but after researching for a while I have come up with a list of things im gonna need to support reaching that mark but without sacrificing the reliability to much. As this is my daily I'm not looking for cheap power but also not wanting to spend loads. If things need to bought then I will but trying to avoid to much. Here is my list, let me know your thoughts. Venom Turbo back exhaust system (4" downpipe -> dual 2.5Inch system). PWR Trans Oil Cooler Kit - With trans guage to monitor temps. Demon Pro Parts XR6 Oil Catch Can. 4″ Turbo Side Intake & Passenger Tray Battery relocation suit XR6 Turbo. Plazmaman BA/BF BAR & PLATE 650HP CROSSOVER INTERCOOLER KIT. Turbosmart 25mm kompact duel port bov. Walbro 460 460LPH Fuel Pump. 1000cc BOSCH Fuel injectors x 6. Crow Cams valve springs. Barra Billet 4340 Oil Pump Gears. Internal Wastegate Actuator. Built BTR Transmission to support. Other mods outside of engine to support the body is not listed here. Thanks.
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Does anyone know if these are purchasable anywhere or if anyone still makes them and/or anyone here wishing to sell theirs? would love a pair on my falcon. considering custom making them myself since I cant find them anywhere.
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G’day I have a exhaust manifold gasket that’s leaking obviously on My BA XR6 Turbo and I was wondering whether I could unbolt the 12 manifold bolts and slightly pull the manifold away and remove the gasket and then slide the new one back in and bolt the manifold back up without having to remove the whole thing with the turbo? an answer would be mint, cheers
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Howdy, I know this has been a topic previously I would appreciate some wisdom as to whether there is a way or not to access the exhaust manifold to turbo gasket bolts and also the turbo to exhaust gasket bolts without taking the whole turbo off as I’m not well experienced in doing so, as I can’t seem to reach them when having the car on a hoist or from above, I would prefer to do it myself rather than take it to a mechanic because of the labour cost. The vehicle has a shocking exhaust leak at the moment and it’s coming from one of the turbo gaskets, definitely doesn’t seem to be the exhaust manifold gasket. It’s a loud ticking under load and whistling+ticking under boost, when rev matching it almost sounds like a car without an exhaust manifold lol. Just want it fixed asap. thanks
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Hey guys hoping someone on here can help, my car is a 2005 BAMK2 XR6 Turbo Manual. long story short I took my car to a tuner, got the car back with a very dim/faint battery light on. initially we thought the alternator was on the way out so I replaced it, made no difference. then realised the battery was going flat over night. went on a rampage changing the alternator, battery, and starter motor. none of these fixed the issue. more and more weird stuff happens with the car, for example when I turn the car off the instrument cluster flickers like a Christmas tree then turns completely off. then if I put the handbrake down whilst the cars off, the traction control light turns on very very dim. not sure if its related but a few years ago my surge tanks fuse melted, same thing happened the other week hence why I've decided to finally address this annoying issue. I also noticed on the odd rare occasion after parking the car at night I've seen the front headlights indicators on very very faintly barley noticeable as if they were getting a small current. also when I connect my battery my interior dome light flashes for a second (I installed an LED interior dome light by the way). also usually when listening to music, the right side speakers stop working leading me in having to turn the volume up really loud for them to kick back in and start working. I don't drive the car much at all hence why I've had the issue for ages, I've temporarily overcome it by disconnecting the battery every time I park it up. there is a lot of weird things going on that I may have forgotten to mention which I will add to this thread as I remember... MAINLY, cars got a drain and faint/dim battery light on and is doing weird electrical things Thankyou in advance
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So this afternoon I put My Ba Xr6 turbo 5spd into second gear and gave it a boot till around 3,500rpm and could hear a super load ticking noise coming from the engine bay, replicated the same sound, only in second and as soon as boost starts kicking in. thoughts?
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Does anyone know what the factory sway bar thickness is for a BA XR6 sedan? just looking at getting some new bushes while I’m at work and don’t know what size to get. Few websites reckon 24mm
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02 ba turbo ute in limp mode Parked up ute put in new injectors and fuel pump. Went to tuner ute was in limp mode was fine before installing the items. In process if changing fuel pump broke a abs wire and soldered back together. Auto elec said abs is all reading right. car will go up to 110kph stays in 3rd no speedo all prnd flashing. has Canbus fault on scanner and sometimes speed sensor have Replaced abs pump,tried a engine ecu (only plugged in not programmed to start) replaced fusebox. Check wiring. Reset code on gearbox. Cleaned gearbox wiring. please help this has been a pain for months and no one can find the issue
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G’day, Today I went over a stupid unsigned pipe in the middle of the road and buckled my clean deep dish 20’s that I run on My Ba XR6 Turbo, so when I got home I decided to test fit some 17x8 G6E rims that I had lying about thinking I could run them whilst my 20’s get repaired. when putting the 17”s on the rear of the car and checking for any issues, I noticed a bolt that’s to do with the rear suspension/ lower control arm (if they have them at the rear lol) that sits about 2mm away from the inside of the rim due to their offset. Is this an issue if I go over bumps or will the bolt/rim be one unit and not touch while going over bumps etc? I would upload the pics but don’t know how to turn a pic into a url lol 🤓
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Hey guys so I have ba xr6 nonturbo. Its throwing codes for throttle actuator,Tps and pedal sensor. Drives fine at speed but idles high with a miss and when I put in reverse or drive, idle drops real low and lumpy and nearly dies. I have cleaned throttle body and replaced TPS as garage and ford told me that's most common part to go but problem still there, anyone else had anything similar? Guess my next step is to change actuator and pedal sensor. Is there any way I can check actuator and pedal sensor/sensors. Is there any other cause that could be throwing throttle codes? Local garage cant help.
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G'day everyone, I have a ba xr6t and the poor bugger has over 260,000 kms I bought her at the end of last year knowing full well of the excessive kms. Unfortunately I have started to appreciate it more and more and want to keep and potentially put some more power through her. The question is. Is. It. Worth. It. I dont wanna pour my soul and more importantly my wallet into her if its just not gunna be worth it. I can do most of the work myself minus tuning and similar. Please let me know your opinions and experiences and I welcome sh*t talk haha.
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Hi Gang, Long time lurker, first time poster. Been re-searching higher stall converters for the BTR in my BA mk2 in the hunt for better 1/4 mile times. I've had a poke around but can't seem to find a direct answer. If I install say, a 2800 converter, will the car go into limp mode? Will it need to the ECU re-flashed? Anything else to look out for? Also, it's soon to be running 300rwkw, with the usual upgrades. With a 275 drag radial, will that get it into the 11's (with practice) do we think? Thanks for your help!
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- btr 4 speed
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Hey lads I’m planning on building my first Barra in the near future and wanted to get a rough idea what work has to be done to the motor. I know I need to change all my rods, pistons, bearings, block and head machined ect... 1. I have read that people are running 1200+hp on a fg turbo crank that's been heat-treat and got me thinking if a fg crank would go straight into a ba-bf? Probably a stupid question but I have read there’s a couple differences between the ba-bf and fg. Only reason I ask is cause I can get a hold of a good fg F6 crank and I’m just planning on buying a cheap n/a ba-bf motor to build. 2. I’m looking to get around 7-800 on 98 for the street and around the 1000-1200hp on E85 so would I have to get the head ported and if so would it be cheaper and better to just exchange the head for a ported one? 3. I have been looking at the spool rebuild kit with custom CP forged pistons and spool drag pro I beam rods and going to run 14mm head studs. I’m a bit confused with all the different options like the all the oversized bearings. is it better to have all the bigger bearings? cause I’ve never built a high hp engine like this, I’ve only ever rebuilt diesels (trucks) and a couple old v8s with my old man when I was a kid. And with all the piston options I got taught by my old man the higher comp ratio in a N/A the more power and lower comp in boosted applications the more power but with technology nowadays it’s completely different from what I got taught. I know all these questions I’ve asked are simple and stupid questions but as I said I’ve never rebuilt a motor to give it more power. If yous could help me out with this stuff it would be great, I know I’m more than capable on putting it back together and for it to run like brand new, it’s just all this other sh*t just got me a bit stumped 😂😂 cheers boys 👍🏽
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- engine build
- e85
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Hi all, Am a full newbie to the fordxr6turbo forum, or any forum for that matter, and just thought I'd share my experience in converting my BA mk2 XT wagon into a turbo/manual/lLSD equipped weapon. Got a bit fed up with how much choice Expensive Daewoo fan's have when it comes to a quick wagon and was always pretty cut about ford never making a BA or BF (or even FG) wagon that had some poke. Massive missed opportunity. Anyway, I got a bit of inspo from looking at other members conversions on this forum where they'd converted their taxi's into turbo WMD's and thought I'd give it a red hot crack. So I got excited one night after a couple of bevvy's and found myself as being the proud owner of a beaten up xr6 turbo ute. 5 months later and I can finally say the conversion is complete and the wagon is running sweet as a nut. Completely stock in every way apart from a cold air snorkel from an FPV typhoon and a Turbosmart BOV and Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator. Have no idea what power it's putting out but it's enough for me at the mo. Am looking to get a tune done at some stage in the future but the bank account won't allow that for a while so I'll just keep it as-is for now. I got some gangstaaaaaaaaa wheels for it too and reckon they set the thing off perfectly. Will post again soon to cover off on the issues I ran into along the way. The reason I joined is to share what I came across during the conversion process cause I ran into heaps of conflicting advice from this forum and others and just thought I'd help clear things up where I could.
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I've got the dreaded spoiler bolt hole rust and have the chance at a clean Fairmont lid and need to know if its a direct fit to the XR6 sedans? I'm not sure if the taillight sizes are different and cause it to not match up or something along those lines. I've already got ghia leather interior with chrome door handles so the chrome boot garnish will feel at home 😆 Cheers legends
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Hey guys. I know this is an absolute long shot. but, many a moon ago, (2010-2012, somewhere around that time) my father sold his beloved XR6 Turbo BA ute. And I'm trying to find out what happened to it. Rumour has it, it ended up in Sydney, but I'm not totally sure. It was sold in Qld. Unfortunately, all I have of that ute are some EXTREMELY low quality photos, I'm talking potato spec photos. The 4 photos I have left: Heres a quick block of info on the car. It was a fully built BA. Fully done suspension, 900kw at the wheels, 1600nm. It was an auto, but it absolutely raped gearboxes, I'm talking 5000-10000 km if you were lucky. So whoever bought it would have had all the fun in the world changing boxes. It had an alloy flatbed, and it had this blue carpet stuff attached to the flat bed. I also distinctly remember it having a Bob Jane T-marts sticker on the back window, along side one that said "Sucks to be you." I'm just trying to find out what happened to the damned thing. It's always made me wonder, and it just hit me this morning that I should go to the forums, and see if anyone happened to buy the vehicle, or know someone who did, or where it went. Anything could have happened to it. It may have been written off and sent into a tree for all I know. The car introduced me to high horsepower fun, so I just want to take a trip down memory lane. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
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Hi guys, I'm a newbie to Performance Upgrades, so I thought I'd get some ideas from some of you experienced performance junkies. I have recently bought a BA XR6 that has already had Stage 3 cams fitted, oversized injectors, extractors, an X-Force exhaust and lowered about an inch and a half. It was performance tuned by a reputable company and dyno'd at just under 300hp. So it's no slouch. It needs some repairs done, rear struts/shocks, diff, one of the front bearings sounds like it's on its way out and some fibreglass needs some loving on front and rear bumpers. And an idling problem (surging revs and stalling on occasions) which I will hopefully have sorted over the next week. What I want to know is, aside from the obvious turbo upgrade, what else can I do to it to give it that extra VROOOM I love?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated 👍
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hey guys theres been alot of talk on the bf xr6t im hearing lots of different things about it, people saying they have the same internals/engine as the bf typhoon, if true is it from 2006 upwards or 2007? and is there any difference mechanicals wise between the bf mk2 or mk1? thanks
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Has anyone fitted a PWR trans cooler kit PWO6115 to a BA XR6T - will the mounting brackets in the kit mount up fine behind the factory intercooler?
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- btr 4 speed
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I’ve found a welded diff from a BF XR6 6 speed auto, and I’m wondering if it will go into my Manual BA?
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Hey guys looking for some advice. I converted my BA to a 6 speed manual and am about to wire up a reverse lockout solenoid Control box that actives under 8 kmh. The control box requires input from the vehicle speed sensor VSS. Some cars have this on the gearbox. But with the falcon the speed reads off the wheel bearings and into the abs? Can I tap into the two wire speed sensor from the back of the wheel for my VSS? Will abs affect any of this? Cheers http://www.grcperformance.com/Instructions/Reverse Lockout.pdf Attached is the instructions. Last page has the wiring diagram
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Have been having issues with my Ba xr6t mkii manual , for a while a whirring sound would come and go slightly between 60-80 km/h (I put it down to just about time for a centre bearing change over. then after about 3-4 weeks of driving to and from work I gave it a little throttle from a standing start and it made a very bad vibration through the car , pedals and gearstick. after that , any hard acceleration of more than 1/2 throttle would make bad vibration and the whirring sound had now become a Humming sound heard and felt above 50km/h. and an all around feeling of "something isn't right" was lingering ....a couple of days after this (about 60-80 kms later) I was driving with barely any acceleration at 60km/h and the whole car broke into vibration with a metal on metal sound present, the car also seemed to now have some resistance under acceleration as if the handbrake had been left on.... Babied the car home about 30km away and every time I would hit an incline and had to give anything more than a touch of acceleration the car would vibrate/drone and hum violently . on the very last hill to my house I honestly didn't think I was going to make it. the last 2kms. when I got home I took it apart and on this video is what I found...... If anyone can point me in the direction of what it might be? and the costs involved / possibly even someone in the northern perth area that can fix it, with quality workmanship? Until I get it fixed im leaving it parked up . im hoping it'll get me to the repair shop without the cost of a tow, though I've been told too much vibration being sent back through the gearbox etc could be very bad? car runs 500+rwhp on 15psi
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- diff
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Hi I am thinking of getting a ba icc with back. I think it's a colour screen, before I buy it what is back and can I hook up reverse camera to it and is it just plug and play?