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Bigg_kayz

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About Bigg_kayz

  • Birthday 26/09/1987

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    Male
  • Location
    Perth, Northsider

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  1. guess ill call rob , I need a retune to get some fuel pulled anyway .
  2. what do ya reckon id get charged to fit it? could you recommend anyone in the northern suburbs?
  3. so basically , get the gearbox out or at least space it , and swap out the slave cylinder for the a vz commo slave cylinder?... is this do-able with 4 jack stands and a trolley jack and all the standard sockets etc?..... any direct how to guide or should I be utilizing the the workshop manual? and will I need to pay for driveshaft rebalance even if I mark everything and line it back up? or should I just pay someone? im wondering why the starting and clutch issue now after simply tightening a few bolts and getting the driveshaft fix? maybe I just didnt notice the first clutch grab when the driveshaft had issues due to resistance? one of my mates ...more of a honda specialist thinks it could possibly be a bolt fallen off the flywheel. as when I was having the driveshaft issues I heard a bolt fall off the car , few day later another, one I found was off the alternator just holding the cabling bracket. the second I still to this day never found the bolt or where it goes :S
  4. the car hasnt been over revved by me, probably only hit just over 5000rpm max when im flogging it . Im starting to think the previous owner abused it judging by all the repairs im going through, either that or he never bothered to maintain in. he was a young bloke so he probably didnt know any better. Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the csc?> I did a quick search this morning but didnt find much and im rushing to get to work as im now having to get lifts with the mrs till this gets sorted. means I get to be nearly 2 hours early for work each day. :s
  5. So , its come to this...... so much time spent researching on forums, talking to people, throwing outs endless amounts of money, for a car im growing to loathe. All ive wanted to do was have my car running "decent" after my last venture which was this I once again still have a rattle and new symptoms after tightening all bolts and thinking Everything was sorted. I shoulda known better grrrrr! Basically Ive noticed over the last few days my clutch has a mind of its own , every so often it decides it has 2 release points (one very close to the floor and isnt like a full clutch release it allows to motion forward but not take off fully{never there before} and the standard release point {still the same}. Also noticed my car struggles to start (but the starter motor and battery etc etc are strong- its like the car is spinning the engine up but its not kicking over , it does kick over though as soon as I let go of the key from "starter motor position") and finally when the car turns over it has a funny sound on idle. Ive read up about flexplate issues and flywheel issues . since my car is a manual what car I look for and do myself? Is it probably a fly wheel issue? My clutch was done 10,000kms ago with a Xtreme twin plate clutch ? surely everything is still good and tight since then? Do the cars issues match what im even thinking? im currently at a loss couldnt drive the car for 4 weeks , dropped another $1000 then spent most of my "weekend" bolt tightening. from what ive read I shouldnt be driving the car again and im probably up for another massive bill. Any help appreciated, cheers
  6. One thing I did notice on the car whilst under it was that the dump pipe was pretty damn close to the bell housing we're talkin' less than 1cm I reckon. Whilst driving during the day today I had the A/c, notice when I was at the lights I could hear the tiniest knock and feel it through the gear stick. if I turned it on and off obviously the idle would drop slightly or go up and when it was On it would be noticeable, even more so when the thermo fans were switching on and off ( once again noticeable when on causing revs to drop ). also the exhaust is big and has a massive canon on the back so it does sway quite a bit on take off.. so I knew then to keep it in mind for any more noises. I never used to be able to narrow the sound down and by the time I got home today it was driving me Insane. I went straight to that area to listen, sure enough that's where it seems to be coming from , problem is I cant see much from the top of the engine bay not having it jacked up and it was getting dark. The other problem is its awful close to the driver side engine mount which isnt looking extremely sad but its not looking extremely new either. cars done 140,000 now. I'm hoping its exhaust hitting slightly, but maybe its the engine mount... any takers?
  7. It'll probably be the way I'll go after I do a re-check of everything in a few weeks. Its due for oil and filter so I shall do it then. Fully agree about the nut and bolt comment. A lot of cars are slapped together these days , many far far worse..... every heard of the "cherry" ? if you've not seen one of their cars in person you should check it out, at least for a laugh
  8. At some point the drive shaft has slightly scraped a curb/ as the car is low. (not during its life with me) the shaft was taken to final drive and weights were put on to sort out any possible issue. I ended up taking it down to DBS in malaga (driveline Balance services) . top blokes , got me in the day after I called, had it done and dusted within 5 hours. end up needing the Rear Cv , front rubber coupling and the centre bearing all replaced. got away with it for just under $1000, that was with the removal , reinstall and balance too. Then the next day came..... lots of clunk and knocking , even prominent on idle (manual). releasing the clutch harshly , knock as usual but now it was LOUD. pretty much over the noises I got the rear and front up on stands, went through the whole underside from diff to front stabilisers , checked all the bolts etc etc. pretty much all the bolts were lose on the gearbox mount that connect with the exhaust hanger bracket (2 on the top , 4 on the bottom) also the 4 bolts that connect the trans plate to the chassis were lose so I did them up too, I dont have a torque wrench so I just did them up fairly tight . I did the same with some insulator stabiliser brackets at he front of the car as they weren't what I would call "tight" either. Its probably not the best thing to have over tightened them, but id rather them tight and stay on , than loose causing vibration/ with the strong possibility of something falling off (which it already had). End result after a few text drives. Pretty much next to no noise, and what I thought for months and months (since I bought the car) was gearbox roll over noise had gone too, only slight knock sound if im being a bit sh*t with the twin plate heavy duty clutch on gearing up or down , just sounds like the tiniest bit of shaft play where the 2 piece shaft meets or the shaft meets the gearbox? Oh and the car actually performs a lot better, boost comes on way quicker and general cruising or rolling up to a set of lights ( in gear or in neutral) is a lot "free moving" due to what I realised was there resistance being caused by badly aligned shaft and rear cv that shat itself. All in all im happy, the bolts were all tightened last night so im going to go for another drive today.
  9. Have been having issues with my Ba xr6t mkii manual , for a while a whirring sound would come and go slightly between 60-80 km/h (I put it down to just about time for a centre bearing change over. then after about 3-4 weeks of driving to and from work I gave it a little throttle from a standing start and it made a very bad vibration through the car , pedals and gearstick. after that , any hard acceleration of more than 1/2 throttle would make bad vibration and the whirring sound had now become a Humming sound heard and felt above 50km/h. and an all around feeling of "something isn't right" was lingering ....a couple of days after this (about 60-80 kms later) I was driving with barely any acceleration at 60km/h and the whole car broke into vibration with a metal on metal sound present, the car also seemed to now have some resistance under acceleration as if the handbrake had been left on.... Babied the car home about 30km away and every time I would hit an incline and had to give anything more than a touch of acceleration the car would vibrate/drone and hum violently . on the very last hill to my house I honestly didn't think I was going to make it. the last 2kms. when I got home I took it apart and on this video is what I found...... If anyone can point me in the direction of what it might be? and the costs involved / possibly even someone in the northern perth area that can fix it, with quality workmanship? Until I get it fixed im leaving it parked up . im hoping it'll get me to the repair shop without the cost of a tow, though I've been told too much vibration being sent back through the gearbox etc could be very bad? car runs 500+rwhp on 15psi
  10. sorry for the late response, but it looks like chris is right, had it in yesterday at the mechanics and it was mentioned that theres in intake manifold leak... will be re-booking to get it rectified in a couple of weeks. sometimes if I start my car on cold start itll start run for 10-15 seconds then die till I kick it over again. It seems to be the same gasket as you described as the nizpro plenum side of things is sealed.
  11. Solution Auto Electrics, Air Conditioning & Car Servicing. PICK UP FROM 9/200 CAMBOON ROAD, MALAGA. corner of TRUGANINA Rd, MALAGA *** IF USING GPS SEARCH FOR INTERSECTION OF CAMBOON RD & TRUGANINA RD*** MOB : O416067803 MOB: O416067803 MOB: O416067803 gumtree ad link http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/malaga/other-parts-accessories/high-quality-reconditioned-alternators-starters-from/1091880889
  12. Pretty much what ralph said, thanks for the recommendation though... I've found a place in malaga that does straight exchanges with old units for complete refurbished units. $180 and I give them the old unit . not too bad the ford one is $395 AND AFTERMARKET IS $365. much rather go a factory refurbished for $180, ive seen the units. theyre like brand new. pretty happy about upgrading from 110amp to 130 amp as a straight bolt on. Im running a pretty big stereo and a few other things and you can see the vast draw on my voltage meter. if it were a BA 2 pin would of only been $100 and the exchange. I will probably look into upgrading my power cable to the battery etc while im at it as the cable used for the relocation to the tray im not entirely happy with
  13. Hey guys, sorry its been a while. I have been really busy, my battery light has been flickering lately. I know its a bad alternator due to a leaky high pressure steering pipe o-ring. Im about to change the pipe and I went to go get a new alternator sorted out for when the pipe is fitted. My problem is that the part number on on it (3r23-10300-ba) says its for a 2 pin BA alternator , but my alternator is a 3 pin . .... I did some research to find that everywhere says that part number is a ba 2 pin alternator that is 12volt and 110 amp. The only 3 pins are the BF alternators , but they are 130 amps and 12 volts. and a totally different part number. The guy at the autospark shop was confused as I was . My car is a may or june 2005 xr6t ute. im assuming I should get a bf 3 pin as I cant change the wiring loom for the alternator as I know the third pin is read/controlled by the computer, im just hoping the brackets line up . im still a little confused why I would have a bf alternator (being 3 pin) but with a BA part number and only 110 amp instead of the bf 130amp??? Is this possibly some crossover error from the BAmkii to the BF?
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