Slowxr6t

Have any of you guys fitted tailshaft hoops? Where's the best location for 2 of them? I'm gonna stick with stock tailshaft but want hoops for safety in case it let's go.

Looks like the old beast would have cooled better, my old 48mm progate on my 300zx looks like that older blue one. Does the job. New smaller ones just easier to package in the engine bay.

Was that embarrassing Captain yeanah? @biddie_fiddler if you upgrade you might have to change some pipework, cos they have probably changed dimensions. I unknowingly bought a Chinese turbosmart gen4 45mm knockoff wg. It lasted about 2000km and shat itself. I went to get a new diaphragm kit for it and the local dealer couldn't even tell it was fake until we disassembled it in his shop and found kit wouldn't fit. I bought a new gen5 and dimensions were different and I had to get the grinder and welder out.

@absmith It sounds like you get surprising awesome spool from that turbo with a 91mm exducer compressor wheel. Have you got any photos of your compressor inlet pipe and your power steer pump without the reservoir on it? A 4inch intake pipe must be very very tight getting from airbox to turbo, I'd love to see that. I reckon with that turbo you'd be making a good 450rwkw at 25psi. Sounds awesome, I'm still contemplating a efr8474 and will have the same fitment issues as you. Is the iwg actuator ok being in that hot area? What psi spring is in it?

Might put some rat bait stations outside to kill the pricks, makes them bleed out internally apparently.

My car has been outside for the last week and had some dry leaves on the windscreen. Last night I thought I better check engine for any dry leaves that could have fallen in there cos I don't have my bonnet seal on. I popped the bonnet and a frigging rat ran across the top of the motor and ran down the side, it smelt suspiciously like rat piss under there and it had shat along top of radiator. Had to have a bit of a wipe up in motor bay and it's back in garage now. Doesn't look like the bastard chewed any wires so that's lucky!

Lane departure is a real stupid feature, I hate it, the only time it might be handy is if you're falling asleep. But if you're trying to drive around a cyclist and go to the centre line it wants to get you to kill the poor biker lol.

Yeah I will do the welding, I will arc it. Iv watched the ims youtube video about pressing in the front bushes to the correct depth otherwise you get the arms rubbing. The stock bushes have shoulders on them apparently that you press them in until the shoulders hit. The superpros don't and you have to press them in past flush about 8mm, measure measure measure. That's why I thought stock front bushes could be a good idea to eliminate the rubbing and nvh potential problems. Also some guys reckon rubber is better than urethane. Actually arc welding might be too hot and make the diff bracket warp when fully welding it after tacking it together and removing diff. Might get it mig welded instead.

Ok thanks guys, The ims kit im getting comes with bushes in the hat I think but golebys didn't have front bushes in stock. I can get superpros for the front in town here.

Do the front bushes crap out much? The back one is an utterly rubbish design but do the front ones wear out much? Should I put in stock ford front or superpro bushes which are solid urethane?

Iv ordered a ims diff hat to install myself. My fgx has done 30k kms so I'm gonna leave stock front bushes in cos they should be sweet, what do you jokers reckon?

@JETURBO can I send you my tune file and some driving logs? If I give you my email can you send me a email and I'll forward you the stuff? richotb3@gmail.com cheers @JETURBO this is getting really frustrating, done 3 on road test and tune sessions with no luck.

@JETURBO my tuner having lots of trouble getting my boost control sorted. Have you ever successfully tuned a barras boost control and left it on open loop or do you always sort it out on closed loop? Iv got a 14psi spring in 45mm external gate and asked tuner to ramp the gt3582r in as hard as he can and run 17psi. The problem is not mechanical because I tried it plumbed from comp outlet to bottom port wg bypassing boost solenoid and it boosted to 11psi and held there. It is boost surging. When I get on throttle in 3rd tiptronic it will boost up and down and doesn't appear to be hitting a high boost cut. It will go to 15-16psi then go down to 8psi or so then back up and down again. A couple of times we thought he had it good then it starts playing up again. Do we need to persevere and get it sorted in closed loop or have you got them good in open loop? Thanks @JETURBO

So I got my brakes fixed, my engine builder checked them and dba 355mm rotors are not true and they havnt even been hot ( green heat paint is still there). He machined them for me and they are good now. Other mechanic hadn't even checked them for trueness. ( useless). Happy now just gotta get boost surge sorted and iv noticed another frigging oil leak coming from somewhere on front of engine again. After I thought I had it all sealed up awesome. Frustrating as.

Is there a go to brand of forged pistons and rods that most people use for road going barras? Do the stock rods or pistons give up first? Atomic told me the stock pistons can get the ring lands blown off anything after 400rwkw, what have peoples experiences been?