TurboBurbo

Yeah but, there's going to be random other sensors getting power off that B20 isn't there? It's on my mind that there's a broken 5v line that might be from chaffing and eventually ground itself and I lose power to my cam control or airbags or something 😂. So I'm hesitant to run a second line without finding the first break.

I haven't tracked it down yet. Using a network tracer it fades out near the footwell kick panel so I'm saving it for the next time I get it up on the lift and have time to start pulling trim off. 🙈 In the meantime I pulled the pin out of the plug and bridged the 5v supply over internally. 🙏 I do so solemnly swear to properly fix the loom and not leave it indefinitely 😂

So....I was hoping someone else would jump in cause Ive got an FG instead of a BA. But I've recently had a faulty pps and pulled the sensor apart, and there aren't any smarts in it, Ground, 5V supply and sensor output (all doubled up for safety). So no linking it to the ecu or calibrating it or anything. Otherwise I'm just regurgitating manuals I've read online, that the indexing is for the adjustable pedal boxes to make sure the brake and accelerator pedals are positioned correctly compared to each other. So you won't have to worry. My pps bolts were glued in with 400*C lock tight, I stripped every since head, had to drill all the heads off and then get the threads out with vice grips. My pps issue turned out to be a broken 5V supply in the loom, pps was fine. Good luck 🫡.

Have you got adjustable pedals to start with?

650's should be loads, considering they are double the flow of standards

Never had one of these boxes open, I had this symptom on an 06 Pajero after 300,000km, but I think it was 1-4, not 5 or reverse. Ended up being the countershaft had hammered it's bearings into the aluminium case over the years and built up a bit of fore/aft slop. This shaft had the selector rings on it and could now move relative to the selector fork and shift itself out of gear. Reshimming fixed it for another 200,000km. It would send the gearstick flying, give you a nice rap on the knuckles.

After pulling the circuit board out and giving it a look, I decided pin 6 was highly likely to require 5V...so *Autosparky Puritans Look Away Now* I decided to pull out pin 6 and bridge 5V supply pin 5 across to it. And it all works again! Now I've just gotta book in a fun weekend sometime pulling trim, breaking clips and trying to trace where the loom break is. Pic of potentiometer board for anyone who might be interested. And I think the numbers I've used are the reverse of what's labelled on the outside of the sensor.

Hello. Can anyone tell me what healthy supply voltages are for the 6 pins on the accelerator pedal position sensor? Looking into the plug on the sensor, with the two locator horns facing up, my car is supplying, left to right: 2.2v, Ground, 2.2v, Ground, 5V, 0V (not grounded) With sensors unplugged, ecu reads 2.2v on both, so I'm thinking those 2.2v pins are the output pins, the 2.2v is just from a pull up resistor, and that 0V should be 5V. I should add, with sensor plugged in, sensor 1 reads 0.8v up to about 3.8v, sensor 2 reads 0.01v-0.02v

L̶I̶v̶I̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶d̶r̶e̶a̶m̶ welcome back to being a common man. Were those flappy paddles the ones that came with backlit wheel buttons? I've almost been tempted to buy that kit just for the buttons and chuck the paddle half in the bin. Or wire them into the high beams or radio or indicators.

Living the dream.

Just sprayed the contacts? Or did you really get in there and clean crud out of the potentiometer?

... Oliver, why are you using Chatgpt to answer questions? what is there to gain?

My FG had a 4 inch Ultrex on it when I bought it that I swapped for a quieter Manta. On a quiet day you could hear it start up from the neighbours a little over 2km away. The Ultrex had a better clearanced dump pipe and hung fairly straight, but did sit low. Also it was beaten to sh*t, had smashed v-clamps, dented mufflers and a couple of cracks because it reduced the ground clearance by 0.5-1 inch.

Replaced, about halfway home as I type. Ford told me they had one in stock, made me wait till lunch to pick it up and then handed me a brake master 🤦. With all the wreckers closed from lunch onwards thank Santa for Repco Rockingham having one on the shelf.

It b0rked. And what I thought was a one way valve was not the one way valve. Cut it open, the brown bit has been pulled out of the silver bit about 15mm in the pic. The outer plunger seal on the piston, I had presumed flared open on a push stroke, and collapsed on itself allowing reservoir fluid to flow past if required on a pull stroke like the leather pump buckets on a windmill ❌. The stem of the actual one way valve on the end had torn out and discretly lodged itself internally.