TurboBurbo

Replacing control arms, and found some nice damage from previous owners angle grinder special lowering springs, upper control arms have hit the body. 😐😑😐

Headline Question: Are the steel sleeves in suspension bushes designed to be held by clamping the end faces tight, or by being a snug fit on the bolt? Bought a full set of rubber bushed front control arms and have just finished the left hand side. Took it for a quick break-in down my corrugated drive and can feel knocking, haven't yet had it back up on the hoist to check it out, BUT. The holes are slightly larger in the new lower control arm steel sleeves compared to old, the bolt has maybe, 30% more wiggle room and it wasn't super snug on the old OEM ones. The faces of the sleeve are knurled and look like they are suppose to bite into the car when done up tight. I've had the same problem with the top bolt on the rear shock when I replaced OEM with a Monroe gt. Wondering if I need to spend a bit of time with the welder and lathe building up the shank a bit. Or maybe some KNEAD-IT. Was also surprised to discover that the bolts weren't cammed for alignment adjustment. Had always presumed the arrow welded on the bolt and tabs on the car were for adjusting alignment. Cheers.

🙋🏼. But as usual I was late to the party and only bought it 2/3 years ago.

A nice long gravel driveway will do that. They are Vari, I was looking at Brembo but these were cheaper. Rsisted the urge to go big and instead keep the weight down. 6pot 355 front and 4 pot 328 rear. Easy to fit, easy to bleed. Haven't really worn them in yet, but they feel alright at the moment - plus they don't squeal and shudder like the old OEM ones did. Something that feels a bit cheeky - the rotors have VARI 37 engraved into them to the same depth as the grooves, and it's inline with the pads.

Needed some new pads and rotors, so did some CarMath™ and bought some new calipers too.

🫤 Id need someone else to confirm whether the Barra pcm does this, but something that might muddy the water for you is those ignition coil errors. P0452/4/6 on some other cars disable the respective injector so they aren't pumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust and smoking your cat + fuel trims. Do all those errors return quickly after clearing them?

I know you have said you have narrowed it down to injector electrics, and this guy didn't come back to confirm, but is it work triple checking your coils? https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87107-po355-fault-code/

Nope, I've never heard of it. Who doesn't love some good old mysterious electrical issues on a weekend? After swapping the injectors around, how are you determining it's still cylinders 2 and 4 giving you grief? Have you got some specific error codes coming up? just listening to them? I HAVE NEVER DONE THE FOLLOWING. So I've done some quick googling to confirm some stuff (*=googled it) but this is how I would proceed to diagnose where an electrical issue was. Check the battery voltage and all the grounding leads you can find. Disconnect the battery for *30 min to reset the ecu, just incase that fixes it. Have you got a multimeter? *99% of injectors are ground switched (ie: with key on, one wire has 12V all the time, the ecu connects the other to ground, connecting the circuit when it wants to fire the injector). With the key off, none of the injector wires should have continuity to ground. If you find continuity to ground on a bad injector plug pin, check the rest of the injector plugs aren't the same to make sure I'm not telling fibs. If not all the same >> You have chafed wires somewhere. Else, Turn the key on, and check that you are getting 12V supply to each of the injectors. If not >> chafed/broken wires. Else, turn car off and check there's no continuity between the pins in plug2 and the pins in plug 4. Just remember which ones were the 12V supply pins because they might have continuity between each other so don't worry if that test is positive. If yes >> chafed wires. With 2 injectors going out at the same time my 2 cents would be on this one 🤞 Last I'd grab an oscilloscope. Or even better, a rellie who knows how to use one. Plug it all back together, fire it up and use the oscilloscope to compare the signal a bad injector is getting to what a good injector is getting. If someones watching when you turn it on you might be able to see the signal go bad after the 5 seconds of idling. Or it's flat lining to start with / intermittent / half the voltage of the others. Depending on what you see hopefully points you towards broken wiring and not broken pcm. (*our injectors contain solenoids, others are piezoelectric. The internet tells me you don't want to piggyback an oscilloscope on piezo injectors cause they generate dirty great big voltage spikes that will leave you minus 1 oscilloscope.)

Yeah but, there's going to be random other sensors getting power off that B20 isn't there? It's on my mind that there's a broken 5v line that might be from chaffing and eventually ground itself and I lose power to my cam control or airbags or something 😂. So I'm hesitant to run a second line without finding the first break.

I haven't tracked it down yet. Using a network tracer it fades out near the footwell kick panel so I'm saving it for the next time I get it up on the lift and have time to start pulling trim off. 🙈 In the meantime I pulled the pin out of the plug and bridged the 5v supply over internally. 🙏 I do so solemnly swear to properly fix the loom and not leave it indefinitely 😂

So....I was hoping someone else would jump in cause Ive got an FG instead of a BA. But I've recently had a faulty pps and pulled the sensor apart, and there aren't any smarts in it, Ground, 5V supply and sensor output (all doubled up for safety). So no linking it to the ecu or calibrating it or anything. Otherwise I'm just regurgitating manuals I've read online, that the indexing is for the adjustable pedal boxes to make sure the brake and accelerator pedals are positioned correctly compared to each other. So you won't have to worry. My pps bolts were glued in with 400*C lock tight, I stripped every since head, had to drill all the heads off and then get the threads out with vice grips. My pps issue turned out to be a broken 5V supply in the loom, pps was fine. Good luck 🫡.

Have you got adjustable pedals to start with?

650's should be loads, considering they are double the flow of standards

Never had one of these boxes open, I had this symptom on an 06 Pajero after 300,000km, but I think it was 1-4, not 5 or reverse. Ended up being the countershaft had hammered it's bearings into the aluminium case over the years and built up a bit of fore/aft slop. This shaft had the selector rings on it and could now move relative to the selector fork and shift itself out of gear. Reshimming fixed it for another 200,000km. It would send the gearstick flying, give you a nice rap on the knuckles.

After pulling the circuit board out and giving it a look, I decided pin 6 was highly likely to require 5V...so *Autosparky Puritans Look Away Now* I decided to pull out pin 6 and bridge 5V supply pin 5 across to it. And it all works again! Now I've just gotta book in a fun weekend sometime pulling trim, breaking clips and trying to trace where the loom break is. Pic of potentiometer board for anyone who might be interested. And I think the numbers I've used are the reverse of what's labelled on the outside of the sensor.

Hello. Can anyone tell me what healthy supply voltages are for the 6 pins on the accelerator pedal position sensor? Looking into the plug on the sensor, with the two locator horns facing up, my car is supplying, left to right: 2.2v, Ground, 2.2v, Ground, 5V, 0V (not grounded) With sensors unplugged, ecu reads 2.2v on both, so I'm thinking those 2.2v pins are the output pins, the 2.2v is just from a pull up resistor, and that 0V should be 5V. I should add, with sensor plugged in, sensor 1 reads 0.8v up to about 3.8v, sensor 2 reads 0.01v-0.02v

L̶I̶v̶I̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶d̶r̶e̶a̶m̶ welcome back to being a common man. Were those flappy paddles the ones that came with backlit wheel buttons? I've almost been tempted to buy that kit just for the buttons and chuck the paddle half in the bin. Or wire them into the high beams or radio or indicators.

Living the dream.

Just sprayed the contacts? Or did you really get in there and clean crud out of the potentiometer?

... Oliver, why are you using Chatgpt to answer questions? what is there to gain?

My FG had a 4 inch Ultrex on it when I bought it that I swapped for a quieter Manta. On a quiet day you could hear it start up from the neighbours a little over 2km away. The Ultrex had a better clearanced dump pipe and hung fairly straight, but did sit low. Also it was beaten to sh*t, had smashed v-clamps, dented mufflers and a couple of cracks because it reduced the ground clearance by 0.5-1 inch.

Replaced, about halfway home as I type. Ford told me they had one in stock, made me wait till lunch to pick it up and then handed me a brake master 🤦. With all the wreckers closed from lunch onwards thank Santa for Repco Rockingham having one on the shelf.

It b0rked. And what I thought was a one way valve was not the one way valve. Cut it open, the brown bit has been pulled out of the silver bit about 15mm in the pic. The outer plunger seal on the piston, I had presumed flared open on a push stroke, and collapsed on itself allowing reservoir fluid to flow past if required on a pull stroke like the leather pump buckets on a windmill ❌. The stem of the actual one way valve on the end had torn out and discretly lodged itself internally.

Quick shopping trip up to Perth, jumped on car to head home and the clutch pedal is basically hitting the floor. Has about 1/5th travel, just enough to park it back off the road. Fluid is manky AF. I have the master cylinder removed, lines unclipped, piston removed, flushed out, reassembled and totally submerged in a bucket of water. With my finger over the line going to the slave cylinder (slave line), the line going to the reservoir (reservoir line) open to the bucket water, as I cycle the piston the slave line is just pulling a vacuum and giving me finger hickeys. No water is being sucked in the reservoir line. With piston removed, can blow through both lines. Seems to me, nothing is getting past the one way valve on the pull stroke when it should, even though the rubber is still soft. Does it all magically work better the second you get the last gasp of air out? Or am I up for a nice new $300 master for Christmas 😩?

My bad, I meant that to mean, If yours are old/bent/worn, new ones might perform better. Honestly, you need to let them bed in. It's a fairly common noise, this is an excerpt from the RDA site I found quoted on another forum from years back, "BRAKE ROTOR NOISE Created by rotors with holes or grooves, this sound is usually at its loudest when the discs are first installed and does drastically reduce after a few hundred kilometres, when the pad becomes flat and seated on the disc. This is not a warrantable situation and is normally “part of the programme” as we say and has to be accepted by customers ordering grooved and slotted discs."