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Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.

Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro

I dont think you can call it Na anymore. Its got more fruit than a turbo terry since you've been hard at work

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

I've increased the boost on the na+t territory and it makes a bit over 300awkw and 600nm on 15psi. As a result the trans needed an update to the tune, which I did this morning. Once again the shifts are quick and crisp and you wouldn't know it's an na trans in there. I think this is where I'll stop the increase in power, it is a na engine after all. When the time is right I'll do some minor engine work to it so it can handle all the boost, but for now it will do.

THE END

morning all, happy Saturday 📨

I've found "quilton" does the job no finger-through-the-paper problems haha morning all, happy Friday 📧

The cam timing is more retarded at idle and cruise by about 10 degrees which makes it quieter.

does add a certain uniqueness to your car; nice and the rear bar with the twin exits looks great

It's a genuine DJR 320 kit.

My first exhaust revision on my turbo terry was a decat and mid muffler remove, so it was just 3inch with the rear muffler. I hated it, only time it was acceptable was on load. annoyed me for cruse especially since being a family car. I fitted a fg turbo manifold and a 4inch xforce dump. I had to cut and reweld the bottom piece of the dump, I feel as it was touching something or pointing the wrong way I wanted. I cant remember now it was many years ago. But it goes into a 5inch cat, then 3.5inch pipe to a hot dog and still the standard 3inch rear as ive been to lazy to make one. but its on my list, but in current form it sounds good on noise and pretty close to stock on cruse.

I put a built trans into the na territory today. Holy sh*t it's a night and day difference!

I'm an Atheist haha so you can put the hail-mary's approximately here

swap the plastic connectors around, just push in the sides inside the holes and pull the connector off. Unclip the ear nose clamps, holding the existing hoses on and replace with an L shaped hose by Gates, Part number is 02-0025

I have HFC here with FttN NBN. Had 100/40 for ages with a cheap ISP and it was a barely okay sort of service. Upgraded that to a more internet focused service provider more recently to 250/20 and it's a lot better.

I read the replies on the thread early on boys but didn't get a chance to reply until now. With the battery tray, because of the way ANTZ have the tray propped up just by one support in the centre and also because the metal tray can be flexed, the battery can be rocked with pressure forward and back. I worked out the easiest fix is to drill 2 bolt holes into the tray and make a support and drill that into the engine bay metal (small screws). Should work a charm. Just have to get a flat bar of metal and I should be set!

There's a huge list of "pros" like you've listed for the country-living, but a huge list of "cons" as well, same as for living nearer to the city... I'll weigh it all up and spend heaps of money either way haha.

yep, or move out to the middle-of-nowhere and get a MUCH cheaper mortgage haha

You want to have it within an adaptation range so it can adjust the pressures if necessary. There are multiple types of adaptation and subsequently various temp ranges for them. Slipping adaptation starts at 70C, so it would be wise to wait until then before giving it the berries. To make things interesting there is a 3C hysteresis on the trans temp, so maybe wait until 73C lol.

Maybe I should have said "waste of time in a street car in Canberra". Mine turned on once in 6 years I reckon and even then the transmission was well within its safe range. The manual override was a more useful option - I used to flick that on when the trans was warmed up and I was working it hard.

Sure sounds like it.

My tuner just got back to me and turns out I will only need the 5bar tmap and can repurpose the boost sensor input. https://www.independentmotorsports.com.au/5-bar-t-map-sensor-omnipower

nice work on squeezing that in for ACDT morning all, happy Friday 🔖

I've got something planned, I'll update when it's done.

I guess it might have to be another stock injector. Well I'm pretty positive it's the injector. I put new plugs in and gapped them to .7 still ran the same, swapped coils with cylinder 1 was still the same. Very noticeable on the graph when reving, holding 2000rpm levels out but some exaust popping, taking my foot off the throttle after holding revs the graph on number 5 goes crazy unless I got a bad plug ? Double checked fuel pressure and it's 4bar with out vacum connected. It's not picking up any codes except p0420 and that's cause my cats been taken out

I downloaded South Park, the fractured but whole, on the ps5. Apparently pressing the fart button repeatedly annoys the missus.

Hi guys, I'm installing a walbro 460 intank pump and I know I need to drill the return line out to 4.5mm. Is this the right one? Can anyone explain what the center one is for as it's blocked? Thanks,

Hi all First time post here, hopefully this one will be of interest. I was at a clearing auction in Country Vic and spotted 4 XR6 Turbo Crossover Manifolds in one lot. A close look left me in no doubt these were prototypes of some sort, and I ended up buying all 4 quite cheaply. When I picked these up after the auction ended the seller informed me these were indeed prototypes, rescued from a scrap bin by a guy in Ballarat who did a bit of work with Ford including helping out at Bathurst racing a Turbo Falcon in the production class. Here's what I believe to be the first prototype, note no fittings for PCV, BOV etc, different font and also the word "Intercooler" instead of "Intercooled" Also there is an indent in the top of the manifold for what surely must have been a Tickford badge. This is cast in. Here's what I think is the second version, with final font and spelling, but with a grafted in BOV fitting. Still has space for Tickford badge Version 3, more grafted in fittings including BOV, PCV, and a small fitting possibly for a boost gauge? Currently blocked off with pop rivet Final production version, with part number. Tickford badge now gone. I was thinking of bringing down to the Geelong All Ford day in Geelong this April if anyone was interested in having a look up close? I find these interesting but I'm a bit of a car nerd, what do you guys think? Cheers Kev

Hi all, I've had an issue with my car running rich now for month's, I've replaced alot of parts trying to figure out what the cause is with no success. A while back my car started to run super rough and rich, figured it was a vacuum leak somewhere or coils. Turned out it was the lower plenum gasket, replaced and it fixed the idle issue but not the over rich condition. Since I've done the following trying to figure out what the cause is: Purchased new oem coils/plugs Replaced TB gasket, PCV valve, Plenum gasket, New battery, Venum high flow cat/Y piece, New fuel filter, New O2 sensor, New Bosche Map sensor. New O-rings/micron filter on injectors. Just picked up the FORscan tool and the O2 shows as 0.9v on idle, when I rev the car to redline in park it'll head back to a more Stoich reading and idle more smooth for about 5secs before going back to 0.85-.90v I've ordered another VOD 02 sensor in the hopes the previous bosche one was d.o.a but I'm at a loss as to what the issue is?. Thermo? CHT sensor?. There's a other guy on here who had the exact same issue but it seems there's was no conclusion, any help would be greatly appreciated t.I.a.

When I worked at a workshop, we would install a boost reference nipple into the front part of the exhaust to diagnose back pressure issues. If a car is making lots of boost and not much power, this is one of the first things to check.

2.5 years you mean to reply to a thread no one was able to help with, which is why I took it in to a workshop.

I have a couple of sets of turbo rods I can use, also a bunch of turbo pistons etc. I could just slap my spool I beam rods in it and a set of turbo pistons, that will keep it safe to make all the power that turbo can throw at it. So far the trans is fine, I've given it a pretty decent tune up and it's behaving itself for now. Obviously that will change if I throw much more power at it but again, I have some bits I can chuck in it to make it stronger without costing anything. It would be better to have a spare engine so I can do the work on one, then swap it over in a day so there isn't much down time. @Typhoon you're selling an engine ain't ya?

Once again it's all keefs fault...I installed the gen2 gtx3582r I had sitting on the shelf this morning.

Whats better than a single turbo? Two of course! I agree, you should do this

Hey mate. I honestly can't remember exactly where the other hole was, but I remember just visually tracing how fuel flows through the module to identify any restrictions so I suspect it will be obvious once you are in there. Sold the car last Friday so I can't even have a look to confirm. I did also have to adjust the low slope a little to get LTFT spot on. As Puff says this is likely just due to aftermarket dump and cat so nothing unusual. Since the above, car behaved beautifully in the years following.

It might, one way to find out. Maybe it needs 2 turbos to keep the exhaust separate?

Indeed, I blame you lol. Car is much better now though, it's actually decent to drive.

Got it all finished a couple of hours ago, test drive successful and a new rocker cover gasket kit got rid of the spark plug hole leaks. As always when going from stock springs to beefy springs, the difference is night and day. It pulls hard to redline now and with decent springs and anti pump up lifters, there is no valve float whatsover. I'm gonna have to raise the rev limiter by 100rpm or so, cos it tagged it in auto mode on the 1>2 shift. Happy days

All that effort and then they choke the life out of the engine with a 1" ID cast pipe under the battery! Interesting none the less... I'll add that back in the early days I did prefer the look of the APS intake at the throttle body, this was before Nizpro released but they were expensive as hell even though I still believe their intercoolers were designed right. No actual facts just my opinion on entry bottom, exit top being the most efficient yet you never see it anymore...

Update installed the new o2 sensor. Now it seems to be running better around town went for a drive and got the fuel trip down from 19 to 16. Where it still seems to run rich and cause issue, is idling.

From my understanding long-term is what the car has learnt over time?. Can you explain why and also what value I should be looking for on a stock tune?. Put it this way the cars fuel trip on the dash over time has gone from about 13.1 to as high as 25L per 100. managed to get it down to 19 by driving it like a nanna.

Custom dyno tune. Intercooler and injectors. No wideband installed, rich as in using not pulling fuel out. Just went for a drive and monitored the 02v and it's stays at .90v and only when blipping the throttle it'll dip down and then return back to .88-90v should be around .45v stoich correct?

take the front bumper off and move the headlight if you're having trouble.

for 320rwkw, a GSS340 is plenty for an in-pod pickup pump and provides the pickup abilities for surge-tank setups if you go that way for more power in the future.

is this part of the fuel tank setup? I was under the impression you needed to drill out the return hole in the fuel pressure regulator itself, or purchase the bolt in GFB one when installing high flow pumps.

Genius I don't suppose you have a pic of it with the airbox cover off?