jas98

Well. We mad.itnhome other day. Ironically ...was 3 ks from our driveway slowing down on highway to turn off and boom enging light and instantly felt like only running on 2 cylinders. Pulled over as there was zero throttle response. Turned off and on and was running on all again but laggy as. Like it was inn3 Rd gear (no dash ligh or D flashing either) Got home unpacked etc. Checked codes and it had Forced limited shutdown Speed limiter reached. Both pointed towards throttle issue. But I have had these codes in past aswell. Anyway the throttle body connections was suss so I cut plug off and used some connections etc for now to tri. It's been ok since now but it was also all good on the 1000 K trip home till the last 3 ks...lol I don't really hold hopes up but will see. Also does anyone have a engine wireing loom for a ba xr6t? I want to replace mine tombe sure. I know years ago I pined out a n/a look and a xr6t loom and was from memory 1 or 2 wires that needed swapping round otherwise most was same same one being map sensor and plug

Yeah not sure. I don't have my proper scan tool with me so tried a Foxwell one that clearly stated it suitable for ba bf FG Falcons (and multiple other cars listed) but shows nothing. I did swat the TPS sensor as have that spare with me . Also other night the imobqliser hand came up on dash at same time engine hicuped like it konked out while doing 90kph for a second but was fine afterwards and been ok since. I did disconnect battery earlier and drove it for a bit and seemed ok then. .. Only thing I did before we left was changed fuel filter and also removed the air box (growler air box) to change a bulb. I know there's wireing connectors behind the headlight where the growler air box gets bolted and the can get water in em and cause all sorts of issues. Wondering if I disturbed a wire in there 🤔🤔

Not sure if anyone has had this issue in past but anyway Ba xr6t Driveing along last night at 100kphm little red hand came on dash and car lost power for a couple seconds then came good and hand went off at same time it came good. Also other night on a trip engine light came on while driveing up up hill at 90-100kph and started missing etc. Pulled over and it idle roughy but came good after a minute. So kept driveing for another 800 ks I don't have a scan tool with me as I'm 1000ks from home. So I will go get a cheap scan tool and see if it picks anything up

Hey thanks. I did check all this but wasn't the issue. The issue was a weired one ....after all the crap I swapped I decided to remove the pcm ..unplug the connectors and reseat the connectors/plugs. Bolt pcm back and also I added 2 new earths from battery. One to engine and one to chassis. In unsure which of the three had an affect but it's been 2 weeks since and it hasn't done the issue since. The earths are just a temp solution as I'm going on a long trip in a couple days and honestly do not want to disturb the car as it's being good since I done this stuff. So it either ra bad ground from chassis to engine....even though the strap looks good etc and clean and connections are clean or it was the one from battery to chassis ..but it's been replaced 6 months back and is clean Orr it was a bad connection at PCM Either way it may or may not show it's ugly side again. Anyone who has similar issues if suggest reseating the plugs on PCM anyway a d checking earths

Hi all what would cause a Forced limited shutdown And maximum speed reached Codes at startup...not all time but can be when cars cold or warm. Downt matter Ot started revs up and the missfired all over place till turning off. And on again then will drive fine etc Also while just idleing normally it will do same ....idleing fine then all sudden does this. But as said not all time Throttle body and TPS replaced every other sensor knowm to man kind replaced bo vacune leaks etc wireing looks all good have reseated the wireing into ecu...earths all good. Only thing left is pedal sensor and PCM

Ba xr6t Been having an issue for a few weeks when randomly at idle car mite be idleing and all sudden for a split second missfired but at same time it revs up quickly and is all good ...this all happens within like 1-1.5 seconds. .other times when it does this it does same but besides revung up for a second it revs right up and missfired/stumbles etc till turn car off and on again . Mite do this a few times over say 4 days then comes good for a week or so and then does it again. When driving car it's fine...dosnet do it or miss etc only seems to be at idle Codes I get are related to excessive rpm ..and maximum speed reached codes Also I have tried a different throttle body and TPS. Which it came good for a few days after that. There is no intake leaks etc literally covered everything besides maybe coils? But surely it would do it while driving aswell bot just idleing? Also thinking possibly wireing issue to throttle body but again why only when idleing?

Hi all. So I discovered that the water line to turbo was completely flogged on my ba xr6t ...nothing getting through Long story short it's all good now (new line) But .I'm in no way of knowing for how long it was this way. Jidgeing by how it was clogged I'm thinking it was like this for quite some time..as in allot more the. A year...maybe 2 or so Now turbo seems ok. But what is the likely outcome on this? Stuffed bearings? Oil seals? Also wondering...seeing turbo was getting really hot with no water cooled ....can it. Affect the oxygen sensor readings?

I'll check resistance and see what they are. Car now does go better. It's throws U back in seat when it's comming on boost now. And smoother when over taking from say 90kph to 110 just acceleration at that sort of speed is much more smoother

Update. Put in new cam solenoids and also removed the cam caps and cleaned the filters on there..and so far so good no code has come back .....so looks like it was either the solenoid or the cam filters

But yes also codes come back after a couple days so I'll have to check timming ...I'll remove comer in next few days and see

Also do the cam phasers fail on these? Cars done like 406 000 ks on engine and on startup sometimes there's a rattle from top and for say 2-4 seconds then instantly quiet again. Or can a cam solenoid also cause them to rattle at amstart up? As I know there's a pin in the phasers that locks etc

Changed both cam sensors with a couple spares I had other day. Car seems to be idling slightly better but it never was a rough idle anyway . Anyway checked codes before and code was there again however I can't remember if I cleared code or not other day before sensor change. I've been reading and usually that code is a skipped chain but also a vct oil supply issue aswell. I know at start up sometimes there a lifter tick (very loud) that goes aways after like 5-10 seconds that it has had over the last couple years but always comes good ....unless if the vct solenoids causing it but there like 2.5 years old..ultra tech branded ones Other thing is if timming has skipped surely there would be another code aswell plus I would assume it wouldn't go as good as it does and idle would be bad? I will rip cover off and check timming marks anyway and... Yes I need to monitor and log ..but I'm trying to work out how I play back on forscan to watch it haha

Awsum yeah I'll do that. Also just thought and also read that the cam sensor can cause stalling ...can also cause that code to pop up (and also no code sometimes) and a few symptoms I've had in past and I know it's the original sensor ...I have. A spare one here so I'll chuck it on and gox from there aswell

I can get a better log later but this is what I mean. Someone told me that it looks fine...but yeah obviously not haha

Well when I revit it seems to go to 0 on both It's hard to tell. I do have a vid but won't upload due to it being to large file

That's will do. Also do these filters have to be installed or can be left out? And also if it had low oil pressure could that be an issue? Surely I'd have other issues. I just say that as I read a post about someone have low pressure causing codes

Hahaha So....it still drives etc but yeah that would explain fuel economy issue I guess 😂 It is a ba so they have the little plastic filter in cam cap for solenoids could they be blocked

Have done a small log. But U sure wtf I'm looking at really ...also while I was reving the engine gentlely at about 2200 rpm and took foot off accelerator slowly it stalled like instant stall...no splutter etc and wife also told me now it did same other day for her. But yeah the VCDADV2 and the VCDADV were both at like -9 to -10 at idle...when reved they did drop near to zero Vcadverr ones were basically 0 or went to 0.33 etc

Thanks heaps. I will have to do some checking. I have been told by someone who tunes that a lazy vct solenoid could cause this aswell but was told to do exactly what you have told me to do (just didn't get told how to do it haha) Then I'll need to work out what it all means while monitoring it lol I'll get back to you once I have Cheers

Thanks. Where in forscan will I see this? Is it when monitoring while running engine? Obviously I'll have to select it in settings

Ba xr6t turbo seems to be drinking fuel lately...more then it usually does haha Anyway last week showed a code for trying to compansate for a overly lean condition so I changed 02 sensor. As it did say possible sensor issue... Today I decided to scan it again and only code it has in PCM is now a P1386 code.... timming over advanced bank 2. I cleared code. Took it for a drive for like 4 min and came back and no codes came up but I believe it will show back up again after a few drives. Does this sound like skipped chain? I'm Can a bad actuator solenoids or sensor cause these? Or should I try data logging if so what should I look for. I'm using forscan software if that helps It does drive ok..but kinda feels a bit down on power/response down low ..up high it seems to go better lol Cheers

Hi all...what I thought was tailshafe shaking I'm not sure now. Ba xr6t stock tune Basically when giving it some...like medium to heavey acceleration from stand still for example ..there a pretty noticeable shack in car that I can feel in accelerator lightly but really shakes car...feels like engine is lagging heaps ..also seems to only boost at like 2 psi...kinda like it hits a dead spot..... Accelerating slowly like a granny it seems ok...yes it using up a bit more fuel...it's never been great on fuel though Now it seems to do this not allllnthe time but say 90% of the time Forscan gives zero codes. Could are genuine...prob have like 50 000ks on em. Spark plus about 15 000ks. All intake gaskets are fine as was replaced not long ago. Basically I have had dead coils in past and it's always Benn the brrrrrr brrrr type missfire...this ones a shake . I have checked fuel filter and it was fine but I changed it anyway...I'm thinking it's a missfire as like I said it's chewing more fuel but I would have thought I'd get a code for a missfire?

Ona ba xr6turbo the valve control solenoids. If these are playing up can they not set a code? Basically I replaced the solenoids last year with new fuelmiser ones which are ultrtech branded. Lately the idle seems to a bit rougher(not missing ) exhaust bote seems a bit veafier aswell at idle ..like a very very very mild cam ..also sometime it seems a bit underpowered to other times the car. Not to mention fuel usage is high...but everything seems ok. Sooo want to eliminate these as being an issue. How do I check these in forscan? Can I see what there doing? Wat should it read at idle?

So have seen a few different brands of spark plugs lately and wondered what people have used in there turbos. Yes well aware of NGK and Genuine but has anyone used topaz spark it's before? Or even tri power? Surely a few have though

Ok so needing to replace abs module in ba xr6t sedan mk1 Mines a 3r23-2c353-ab One I'm getting is from a ba MK2 ...3r23-2c353-ac What's difference in the AB and AC? I've heard people having no issues using them in either aslong as pipes match and rest of numbers Is it just production run coding?