Leaderboard

Became a dad! Still in the clouds

Got my car tuned by Spiro at Autotech Engineering yesterday, It made 322rwkw and feels strong. Also had the ZF tune done which he has done a great job with. Feels awesome. Parts list is, Black Process West stage 2 intercooler. Nizpro 4" full exhaust, KPM Streetfighter airbox, KPM 1000cc injectors, KPM Walbro 460 fuel module, Plazmaman intake muffler delete. Here is a couple of pictures of the car.

Feeling the love mate Always happy to help where we can, still like to see the little guy up front

Are those stripes crooked?

Dude, you never go full retard.

We could prob get 750k outta a tank as well if we all had a 120kw tune

We've got a few forum members who work the rail lines don't we?

^^ Bet the brick wall was worse for wear and the volvo turned up to work the next day..

Homer, are you just holding on to the can?

Hi my name is I JET. It's been 3 months and 17 days since I last boosted.

I am weighing up my options. I will be visiting my local Ford dealer and having a look.

Big upps to matt for keeping this thread going Cheers veva

SSL springs front and rear, the car did have a couple of parts already bolted on when they did the before run. My guess is with the stock tune it didn't work well. Car has run 12.6 stock at 113mph so I don't think it was lacking power stock. Stock wastegate and actuator, I don't have boost graph. Didn't actually ask what boost either. I know Spiro was happy with how it came up. That's all that matters to me.

I have the 3.5" xforce with the center muffler removed and it sounds good I don't even get any drone just pretty loud when flooring it

Thanks guys, I'm really happy with where the car is at at the moment, With the brakes, wheels, Koni shocks, whiteline sway bars and the power now, it does it all so well on the street now. I won't get back to Wakefield until next year and I'm not really interested in E85. I just want it simple. I will eventually get it back to the drags but I'm in no rush. Yep I'm more interested in circuit days at the moment. It's going to be a lot harder to drive there out of corners now. I will step the tyres up a bit though.

He had on the Hi-Vis jacket so he should have been fine

WMMFG: Ducked home at lunch time, dragged the cover off the bike and rode it back to the office (charged the battery over the weekend) First time on the bike in probably a year (back's been dodgy) Beautiful arvo for a ride once I knock off tonight.

If you think 1k for VCM Suite is expensive, your going to shit yourself when you find out whant and Xcal-4 and Tune is going to cost.

I'm not i'm bullshitting. I was sitting on the couch watching Orange is the New Black with my wife when I posted those shots, so I used teamnviewer to log into my server and screen capped on my phone. I would have been shot for stopping the show to do silly car stuff.

No. Add in the value of humiliation and it's pretty farkin tragic.

We installed injectors for free when we did work on xr's as its easy and quick But we did lots of stuff for free so no surprise there

Mate you should sell those air boxes

Luke on a test drive following the tuning.

https://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/index.php?cPath=119_346_485_915&osCsid=de8fea9aaa8a2c131ce07ae9b5321626 just ordered the 4" turbo back in mild. great price and a good bloke that know his exhaust. 30years in the job. also let me know about the few issues hanging the 4" so there is no vibration. good online store. I recommend them highly. :D

Yeah I miss the good old days of distributors and diy tuning. And no speed cameras

waking up at 530am and did a 10k ride. Start off small

Excessive spark retard generates a lot of heat and can be as harmful as knock. Basic spark retard tables from a BF F6.

knock detection depends on how many degrees of retard the tuner has allowed, it will not go into limp mode if it exceeds this amount and still pings, it will go into ventilated block mode

I believe warming a car is also a bit bs tbh. But again if it helps people sleep better at night

11. Few picks of the finished engine bay. Car is going in for its tune this coming Tuesday at CMS. Will update thread as it all happens.

Turbo timers - Why do you think you need one of these? besides hacking up the wiring loom in your car, making it potentially easier to steal and letting it sit idling with zero air flow (allowing it to heat up) the only benefit is really to do with aggressive use of the car. Timers were invented in ye olden times when turbo technology was very primitive. Turbo's are now generally oil and water cooled, however once hot the turbo takes a little while (maybe a minute or so) to cool back to a reasonable temp after being thrashed (eg, track work, drags etc) after doing these things the idea is that you might shut the car down to allow it to cool. However there is a scorching hot turbo housing that now has very hot thin oil against the shaft seals. This oil used to leak in to the housings and do all sorts of havoc, could cause a fire, etc. So by inventing a timer, it allowed the driver to drive the car hard all the way home, park it, get out with the keys and allow the engine bay to 'cool' somewhat by leaving the engine continue to run. If you consider a running engine in summer while parked cooling, sure whatever works for you. But basically you can park it with lower risk of someone stealing your car. So, what for all the E series i6 motors that are on the road. Quite literally there must be 1 million of them or close to. The persistent problem throughout the E series has ALWAYS been head gaskets, generally caused by the alloy heads cooling & heating differently to the cast iron blocks. So where am I going with this? Ever been cruising down the freeway in an old EF on a hot day & needed to pull over to make a phone call? Ever notice what happens to the temp gauge, goes sky high. Now grandpa with his fairlane never got a timer installed, does he need one? well given on such a day the engine on a freeway is at maybe 50% load and it needs to cool down a bit I'd say yes! But if you drive the car down residential streets in any kind of sane way to park it in your driveway, what temps are you generating that are so extreme they will need cooling. In saying all of this, the same people that will install a timer won't lift the bonnet to vent the hot air as quickly as possible after driving in any condition however they feel they want to have the ability to leave their car running with the doors locked in a public car park because? well they think it's 'good' for the engine. Vettel, Richardo, Alonso, etc etc drive the MOST high tech race cars the world has ever seen, yet they do not use 'proven' Japanese turbo timer technology. They come in off the track and shut it down, yeah people run from all directions with leaf vacs to cool it but even then its rare that you'll see a car that comes in straight from a run combust in to flames from not having a timer So I propose that if a person is driving a car that hard that much and then shutting down the engine to walk away from it that they require it to idle and cool things, they are doing far more damage during this thrashing stage than they will ever be able to save with a timer. Please don't let this rant be a negative to your question, there are no dumb questions here. The reason I answered the way I have is that I have this debate far to often with dickheads that simply can't understand these concepts and it's like talking to a bag of cement trying to tell them they are more often than not warming the engine of their car, not cooling it. My opinion - allowing your car to cool with a timer is irrelevant.

9. Swirl pot modification.......When I spoke to Joe about booking in the ute for a tune, we were discussing my mods and he mentioned I may be running too high a fuel pressure with the surge & 044 setup. I put a gauge on the car and sure enough he was right. So to fix this there is a small orifice in the swirl pot that the return fuel exits. This can be drilled out to help return flow and get the pressure back down. I went in from the top as to pull the tank out the bottom is a royal PITA on these utes, specially without a hoist.Hard lid off & tub liner outDrill out spot welds on left side of front panel to access fuel sender Fuel sender out Underside Removed this black piece The 2.6mm hole is the restriction Drilled out to 4mm All back together, checked pressure again at idle and its spot on now at 4 bar.

Hi Guys, I just had a GTX 3576 turbo and a Process West fitted to my FG XR6 Turbo by Autotech at Granville. They removed the last of the factory exhaust and it now runs an X-Force system from the cat to the rear. I went for the GTX3576 rather than the GTX3582 as I want grunt lower in the rev range. The car is making 360 kw on 98 RON and it feels VERY STRONG. The car is lovely to drive and it's using 12L/100 km's around town - sometimes a little bit better. Many thanks to Spiro at Autotech for all your help and advice. PAH

cheers I think id defitently be happy with going with that, not looking to go crazy! thanks for the info its gave me good insight

^similar to heroin, only more addictive.

Drove it for the first time in a month. Was way more powerfull than I remember, no boost for a month does that

welcome. nice colour remove the stripes and the windscreen sticker and put the old boot back on then it will to sweet as, hey bro

Howdie all.. good old google

faarkin damned it . Sorry to hear as always. I feel , but don't know just what to say. Makes you feel so helpless. bestest to the family in this toughest of times is the best I got ATM

going off memory here but stock injectors are 28lb/hr, 1000c EV14's are aprox 95lb/hr Stock closed loop is good for aprox +/- 25% so 28+25% = 35lb/hr at max trim. For the stock system to trim a set of 1000cc EV14's it would need aprox 380% +/-fuel trim available. In simpler term a set of ID1000's running stock hi and lo slopes and stock fuel pressure would deliver aprox 3.8 times more fuel mass than stock injectors (NB simple terms only and ignoring other factors such as voltage and pressure offsets,breakpoint and min pulse width)

If it is that simple I'll ask the tuner if he will do it for free.

Buy some cardboard from your local newsagents in your choice of colour( I recommend bright green) and cut out templates the same size as your calipers and then stick them on your calipers with tape. Then stand back and see if you like them.This will give you a fair idea. Obviously you wouldn't drive around with them on!

lol, looks pretty though

After its first full charge the iPhone 6 lasted 36 hours including a full work day and streaming music through Bluetooth in the car to and from and loads of messages and calls and Internet . Not bad

OK so my cheap solution was to straighten up the bent rib than take a length of Flat bar and weld it to the outside of the rib and also to the uprights on each end to put some strength into it. Test fit, checking length, marking up cut outs Cut outs done, paint ground back, ready for welding. Welds all done and ground back, Nice and straight now. Quick lick of primer to seal it, for once all that sh*t they put in your letter box comes in handy. All finished and really happy with the result. Looks just like a bought one......actually it looks much better. This solution might not suit everyone but because I had the mig welder handy it was quick an easy to do.

yep dyno runs bar and plate, track time and street use tube and fin all the way have had both and will never go back to bar and plate

Unfortunately I dont rate them at all Pulled a opt 5 twin plate out of a bf f6 ute that had done 10,000kms and only 380 nizpro kw and it was a steaming heap of snot, Needed a full rebuild and previous owner wasnt!! the local burnout king either When we asked about warranty or coming to the party a very dim view was formed on mal and a coupla hundred off rrp cost to rebuild was offered Texxtra are way to noisy ( twin plate ) but grip onced clamped well Npc to date ( I feel ) are the best value for money and drive the best with genuine strength and durability to date This is my opinion dont expect everyone to agree