rollex

Not sure if this is any help or not, but here is an account from a DIY tuner showing how much work it is to get factory like response with closed loop boost control after changing the turbo/wastegate etc. So yes I would say persevere, you can get it as good as factory with enough time. It is also much easier on the dyno than on the street. https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/1428-1st-time-enabling-closed-loop-boost-sanity-check-please

I couldn't speak more highly of Monstatorque and DSRs ability to build big hp boxes and make them stay alive. As Aaron says it really is key that the PCM and TCM tune are done as a pair due to the way the torque reduction is done. The PCM calculates load, converts this to torque and sends it to the TCM so it knows how much pressure to apply. The TCM then tells the PCM how much torque to truncate. You can quickly see if the PCM and TCMs torque models don't agree you'll be in strife. Them agreeing is more important than being correct which is why it's crazy to build a box and not ensure the PCM tune uses the same assumptions that were made in the TCM tune. These two shops do this. Am example of where I've seen things go wrong before is pegging a map sensor and tuning the fueling so it still "works". If you do this your load at 22psi and 35psi are the same, hence the torque is the same and hence the gearbox pressure will be the same. If you tune it so it doesnt slip at 35psi then it will most likely clunk at 22psi (and be pig rich) as it has no way of telling the difference between the two loads.

Our test car has a completely stock intake except for a panel filter so that is quite a hefty restriction. Stock driveline means we only put roughly 16-18psi through it. From memory on E85 that was about 360-370rwkw on a pretty safe tune. If you max the turbo on E85 with a proper 4" intake on E85 you will easily make 400rwkw. I don't think you'd get much more worth trying above 25psi but I have no experience trying to max them out either. Even though the turbo comes on a lot sooner it doesn't ramp/hit as hard as the stock 82 so it actually is less of a tyre fryer. The 82 will make more torque but it hits later and harder, the gtx3576 is way more progressive with a flatter torque curve, you don't get that characteristic old school huge torque spike just before the gate opens. This makes it way more driveable with less wheel spin in my experience. As for driveline, is it an auto or a manual? Manual will break tailshaft/diff/axles. Auto well, it will break everything if you aren't careful. I broke the axles and centre bearing mount with the stock turbo testing out launch control and maybe 330rwkw due to axle tramp. Lots of factors will decide when and if it breaks.

I changed from the gt3582 to a gen 2 gtx3576 and it's a much much better turbo for high 300s. Torque curve is much flatter and the power delivery comes on sooner and more controllably. You'll need more psi to match the top end of the 3582 but personally for a street car I don't regret it.

You can run no reduction on the 12 and hardly any on the 23 shifts if you are running one of the 800kw boxes. But the 34 and onwards will never last more than a few passes at that power if you turn it off. Also depends on how much grip you have. The actual torque reduction time you can measure, the fuel cut is actually fairly short, less than 300ms as the shift itself is faster than that.

Launch control is instantaneous. If you hold it down for half a second, it activates the launch/overboost for half a second. Quite literally hundreds of people are using it at the drag strip to build extra boost off the line or to add boost when half way down the strip. The multiple tunes are something you would activate before the run. Eg you select boost profile 1, do a run, find it spins until half track so you activate the next tune and do another run. You aren't going to be doing that one mid strip, but some people do use it to change tune whilst on the freeway or driving around on the street. The benefit is you can do it without stopping or pulling over. Using both is preferred. Traction control is reactive, so it's more flexible but it means you need to experience wheel spin before it does anything. Boost by gear is something you enable when you know the track conditions are not favourable, or on the street when you are running cheap tyres but still want to have a crack at traffic light GP. So if you know it's not going to hook up you enable it ahead of time.

You can by holding the cruise control button down and enable a boost scramble or launch tune if you wanted.

The best use for multiple turns is boost by gear, low boost and high boost. We have customers set up boost by gear on 500kw cars with 4 port boost control to get the power down to 300kw so they can get traction in 1st gear on the street and slowly reel the boost in as the speed increases. You can couple that with flat shifting so you can pin a 500kw car in first through 4th without lifting on the street with street tyres and have it not put you into a wall. Makes for a very fast street car. Then you can go full Habib mode high boost to do 150kph power skids at power cruise. Low boost for when you missus drives it in the wet. Another one is boost by speed for those 1000+hp cars doing the 300kph runs. You need to reel the boost in slowly per speed to get maximum traction without having to pedal the car down the strip. You'll never be as fast possible as you can if you have to pedal the car to get traction. You can set up 8 different boost by gear ramps depending on the strip conditions.

I run invision community on our forum and it's that simple for us. You can still write custom plugins for auth and anything else you need. Zero maintenance for us.

Why on earth don't you guys use the invision community hosted option? It like $45 a month and you literally have to do nothing to maintain it. Be absolutely mad to try and maintain a Linux server yourself these days.

Graham West has a hub dyno and Damien has his head screwed on pretty good. He asks better questions than most and seems able to figure things out from first principles on his own without any help from others. If for any reason people wanted an alternative that is who I can personally vouch for. They are obviously a bigger shop though, so they have overheads and time constraints unlike Jet who is on his own and can take as long as he wants, take from that what you will.

What broke in yours JET, the gears or the clutches?

No idea!

He modified the trans for more pressure. Then the planetary set let go a few weeks later. Didn't slip though apparently, clutches still looked brand new. You wouldn't do that to a customers car. Obviously something is going to fail. GT42 is probably what kept it alive as it would have lower cylinder pressure than a 3582 or something smaller.

Daniel Naggy cracked a 9.9 in his stock bottom end BTR BA turbo back around 2008. ~500rwkw 142mph