Bulletime

U can also mount the original screen down the bottom I believe stingray have a mount. Personally I think a screen down there looks poo so I didnt do that. The only one who has figured out how to remove the screen and circuit board entirely is kahan audio, theyve obviously mapped out all the signals for tjr hvac buttons and replicated that to canbus (the canbus bit is known but not the hvac button signals). Always happy for someone else to contribute to the collective knowledge though so feel free if your inclined to map that out and share [emoji38]

I never got that to work. The evga or whatever it was only output red and in any case when I removed my colour screen from its circuit board something buzzed and got mega hot so it wasnt happy. I had to put the screen back. The other guy kmx had a monochrome screen and it seemed ok to have the screen removed. Im talking the lcd itself as the circuit board it is attached to is needed to keep the hvac buttons fully working. Kmx has an oled hooked up to his canbus displaying the hvac settings, whereas I have nothing showing hvac as the system is simple enough to operate. My original screen is jammed up behind the new screen.

Easy, check the ford forums link, my android head unit has control with the steering wheel buttons

Did u drain the diff before taking out the seal?

Nice one. Carplay really brings the fg into the modern era. Bout all u need really that and torque guages. Love to see wheels magazine review the interior again, none of that this car is amazing but crap because of the out of date interior [emoji3166] theyd prob still complain though

It is bit of a sh*t, when I reinstalled my zf after getting the 6r80 conversion I failed at the linkage and the car wouldnt even start. I still dont think its 100% perfect as sometimes the shift selector misbehaves ever so slightly but its mostly ok [emoji2369]

That sounds kinda hectic, im doing my wifes territory soon and was planning on putting the new pan (with bottom drail hole) but refitting the old filter. Then flushing enough of the 20L till it comes out clean and or I only have enough to do a final refil. Having a bottom drain bolt will make it cleaner and easier then the final fill ill put new filter in and fill her up as per zf fill procedure. Im also putting an oil to air cooler on (did this already on my xr6 turbo) and just got the proper fittings cuz that's what everyone does and I dont wanna make things harder for myself (sounds like u dont mind a challenge). Hopefully a real mechanic chimes in to give u some wisdom but being my second zf to play with I dont think id be doing anything dodgy. Theyre too expensive. Also good job going derale, ive got one on my trans and engine, quality product!

I recently picked up a set of the crow cams race valve springs and retainers https://www.crowcams.com.au/FindaProduct/tabid/92/ProdID/15792/Default.aspx Havent installed yet but im hoping they arent too much for 409rwkw at 21 psi with these specs Installed Height - 1.520" Installed Pressure - 105 Pressure @ .5 Lift - 205

Haha cool thanks, its pretty detailed in the other forum and easily enough to replicate for anyone willing. Ive got some good write ups on pin outs and wiring so it should be a decent resource for ppl.

Hey mate unsure of the policy on linking to other forums but its all pretty well detailed over at AFF here “DIY Head Unit Upgrade” https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11475851 Obviously built a lot on other ppls works, first the tesla style icc replacement then the alpine route and I went the android head unit route. I actually ummed and ahhed about the kayhan but couldnt bring myself to pay top dollar for 3-4 yr old head unit tech when I got top of the line current, subsequently reading all the problems and revisions the kayan uint went through I was pretty damn glad. Hvac controls work fine but I have no display, had various plans to but in the end to make it cold u press cold heaps and to make it hot u press hot heaps its not that complicated lol [emoji1787] If u have any more questions that arent answered in the other thread or if keithy deletes my forum linking then happy to answer more here.

I diy’d this over a year ago, joying android head unit, custom arduino on the canbus and deleted the factory icc. Pretty happy works great, factory sub goes better and carplay and torque guages are awesome. Cost me a fraction of a kayhan thing and was my first foray into car audio so was very rewarding.

Cheers just checking what science was needed

Yeah good idea, was thinkin thatll be a pita, but would make it easier to work out how much u need to take off, did u take it on and off heaps to check the length? Was it the same length to remove from both sides?

Cheers thanks for the tips! Maybe I should do the hubs as well at 200k while theyre off that's a fair amount to grind off

Also what size is the nut for the wheel hub?

Angle grinding off the ends just enough ok to refit the centre cap? Should they be replaced/upgraded in pairs?

I tried the ios version of forescan a while back when it first came out. It couldnt read my fg and I sent them diagnostic logs and they said the ecu was encrypted from tuning. I have the xcal x4 and even ford when I was getting aircon looked at said their scan tool couldnt read my car, just said nothing was plugged in.... I was pissed since I spent the money on the ios app and cant use it

I can do multiple laps of eastern creek with 250kmh, 200 and 170 kmh stops each lap with no fade. Engine overheats but hopefully working on that. 6 pot brembos up front dba t3, always fresh high temp brake fluid, braided lines and winmax circuit pads. Brake ducting from ppl who have done it is a massive pita, I would make sure everything else is tip top, u could remove fog lights and the lower parts of the inner guard IF everything else doesnt help.

Engine kw maybe. 3-4k is the real bottom end, probably need 2nd hand parts to make that budget too and yeah your gonna be going to sydney, maybe newcastle if anyone has any experience with shops there. Probably good places on the gold coast if that direction is closer (and u get a holiday that way)

Before I said stuff it and went the IMS diff hat. Stops the thud too feels way better.

Factor in that the IMS diff hat you do once but even a superpro bush will need replacing and so the higher up front IMS cost is well offset by not having to keep dropping the diff and putting new bushes in. I think id replaced superpro bushes a couple of time before I said fuc|

Haha jesus what power u running?

Ha nice one, is your box stock currently?

Ah nice who is doing it and how much?

Lol no idea, stock? It was green so whatever that means from the stage 2 build it got 2 years ago. They did obviously modify it to matt up to the 6r80