Bulletime

Put the extra money into mods and you have something that will blow away most things from a factory anyway.

Thinking about it it's probably not strictly his tafe but maybe one of those pricey vocational course companies with either a distance course or one where you go away for weekend or week hands on thingy

Bugger entries are full :( anyone know of any other events like this coming up?

I think there's some tafe mechanics course for Motorsport. Got a cousin in law doing it. He's doing an mechanic apprenticeship separately and yeah from what he's told me they learn a lot about how to tune the performance of the vehicle and learn what adjustments have what affect on the track. Also learning to listen to the feedback of the driver and learning to tune the car and correct things the driver is feeling the car doing or not doing on the track. Sounds pretty cool, I think he also has to build an tune some kart thing that he gets to drive. Might be something to look into.

Anyone going? Anyone been before? http://racingready.com.au/v2/?p=678 What would a stock fg do over the 1000? I've recently thinking how much I'd love to wind my fg out and this would be perfect! Recently done a track day and I like going fast!

so this will apply to any full exhaust system change then? Rear muffler ok though?

Mate should have no worries with a lease, I'm on my second lease now. It's saving me like 5-6k a year. Love it! But I do a lot of kms, but that doesn't mean everything, since they changed the tax laws the higher kms for new leases don't matter now. Just work it out for yourself and see if it works for you situation. Only thing will the the value of the new gt and it being exxy might actually ruin it for you. But I know someone who just did a hsv gts so ppl do it. Like I said work it out for yourself and see if it makes sense. You get used to not paying for petrol all the time, just put it on the fuel card, and having it all come out of your pay is nice too.

That's fair enough, you've got a business to run I can understand that. Hopefully there's still plenty of ppl that can pull it off on their own though, I'm considering it for the satisfaction factor just as much as the cost. Nice job on the intake GTEXXED.

that's a good one, even if it seems obvious. That kinda concerns me though, but the how much of a you play you pay thing will anyone throw at you if sh*t breaks?$600 on an IC install is a fair amount though. Maybe ill wait till I'm ready for all this stuff and chat to my (a) tuner about it all. Just can't stop thinking about everything I wanna do to my car lol.

Yeah sounds good thanks for the feedback. Might be time for some suspension work. Ill say it before someone else does though... Diff bush

After opinions on whether better springs and shocks would be the way to go rather than coilovers at the lower end? Figure ill need new bushes everywhere too but that's a given. Will be doing some track work but don't have a huge budget, probably doesn't go we'll together lol. I should prob just call pat at wholesale suspension hey, lol. If that's all the advice I get then that's fair enough

Thinking through all the mods I want on my fg and I'm trying to work out if it's worth doing a bit myself before getting it tuned or if its not really worth it. Basically I figure I could handle installing something like a pw stepped intercooler and piping kit and a battery relocation kit with turbo side intake. I know it will be pretty satisfying so there's that aspect too, but what would that stuff cost to be installed anyway? Eg pw stepped cooler kit is like $1595 direct, but what would it end up being installed, would the tuner get it cheaper anyway and hence labour not add up much past retail? I'm also wondering if tuners wouldn't really like it if say I walked in and said I have these power goals and I've done these bits myself, whether they'd not guarantee things as much, or if they usually go a bit easier on price when you get a big bulk of work done together and any savings from the diy would disappear anyway? I know I see on here all the time ppl talking about their diy projects and then all the places like rapid and other places selling kits, so I wanted to go that path myself, but if it isn't really worth it when taking everything else into consideration then I wouldn't bother. Cheers.

I'm keen to know too, I don't think you could beat the direct connection for speed but I'd rather not cable so either Bluetooth or wifi, surely the bandwidth would be enough anyway but I guess it also depends on the obd2 tools ability to run the Bluetooth or wifi and feed the data. I like the idea with wifi maybe allowing multiple devices, but its poo you lose Internet when on the wifi, and Bluetooth uses a lot less battery than wifi so I might go the wifi. But as for what's good and what's not I don't know... I'd also like it to not look poo sticking out of the obd2 port.

Yeah cheers thanks guys, I clearly went into panic mode. Had it all checked out by a mechanic this morning and yeah it's all good, I just overreacted like normal lol. Like you guys have said battery acid is slowly corrosive so yeah the bicarb soda did the job and things just look like poo now. One more reason to mod and get some sexy clean pipes in there lol. Not for a while though. Thanks for putting up with such a noob.

Yeah cheers, makes me feel a bit better, no one is rushing to tell me my car is totally f*cked so I might be ok. I'll get a mechanic to check it tomorrow and at the very least change the hose clamps. Until you know with these things your mind just goes bananas, is it just surface damage, is my car going to explode on me, you just quickly feel sanity escaping as the unknown sets in. Thanks again.

I've got some more pics, I've numbered some pipes, kept consistent across pictures, again grateful for advice/reassurance in the first picture Arrow 1 in all pictures goes from bottom or coolant reservoir to radiator Arrow 2 is the vent that goes into the battery box, where does this go? I don't know if any acid got down there, the opening is ok but yeah?? second picture another angle of arrow 1 arrow 3 goes from again probably radiator to engine? third picture arrow 4 goes from top of coolant reservoir to radiator Are these pipes f*cked or am I overreacting? Cheers

Cheers thanks macca for the reply. Washed off what I could see, radiator piping looks pretty disclosured too, and some other pipes that look like it goes to the engine from the radiator. The turbo intake pipes don't look too bad, just a few flecks, the clamps, and the mounting bracket, have taken the brunt of it, I think, can't know till the clamps come off I guess really, it's possible the piping underneath has copped it too. Dunno if I can trust the radiator piping, if that gets hot and the pipes are compromised then yeah game over?, there's also one or two flecks on the fan ( or timing) belt, I have no idea. Good news is I have a replacement battery, with definitely no leaking, the bad and well complicated news is..... That I'll be going through a third party warranty claim for any of the damage the battery acid has done. But no guarantees I'll get my money back for repairs. So first thing tomorrow I have to get a mechanic to inspect it all and write up a report detailing what's f*cked from the battery acid and what needs replacing. Then that goes to head office and third party claims and yeah who knows how long it will take. Kicker is I have several thousand kms to do next weekend prior to going overseas for a month so I gotta get this sorted asap. So I'll have to get it all repaired straight up and the wait for the claims to come back. My conundrum is though that if there's a risk I won't get any money back then I don't want to take it to a mechanic for the repairs that will cost probably big $$$ I'd rather get some better parts and do it myself, cooler works or Plazman piping kit probably ( or other??), and yeah. If ive saved money doing it myself rather than a mechanic I'm hoping the claim can still come through, if it ever was going to. This is only supposing that the damage is limited to radiator and turbo intake hosing, if it's worse than that then I can't really manage that myself. If anyone has any suggestions, or words of comfort, then please help a brother out :s :( Thanks guys.

Got this battery from Supercheap about a month or so ago and it's leaked everywhere. When I bought it the person carrying it over said it had leaked and they wiped it down and complained that customers carry them the wrong way and make them leak everywhere, even though there are big signs saying to carry them carefully. I was in a hurry, it was near closing and I thought nothing of it. Now I'm wondering if I should have paid more attention.... See picture below, what tipped me off to something initially was that the hose going to the radiator (yellow arrow) was out of its clip, that then drew my attention to the white hose clamps, and I'm like WTF these are the hoses that go from the intercooler to the turbo farrrrk!!!! :o Where I've circled red on the battery is where all the battery acid has come from, if I tap my fingers onto the part of the battery more sh*t splashes out. There's also more battery acid damage below those pips (blue arrow). Very very grateful for any advice, I'm doing a track day on Thursday and don't want the heat to rupture those pipes or any kind of sh*t to go wrong, should I be heading to super cheap and raging at them or is it not their fault?? I basically don't know if there's anyone to blame (but myself) or what my solution is... replacement battery? replace pipies/clamps? or simply clean all the acid off? I've read an overzealous alternator can boil the battery acid and cause it to overflow? I'm assuming the metal clamps aren't just going to clean up once I get the battery acid off though since it looks all kinds of crazy? As you can see I'm bit of a noob and have no idea so yeah thanks for any suggestions!

I've always wondered about this too, not sure if I'm willing to do the chop chop on it though. I suppose if you have an awesome blingy aftermarket cooler it would be even better.

Ffs so many young f*ckers with the F6, I'm 28 with an FG XR6t (on a lease to take off the sting too) but wow, jealous! Don't even have a house to hold me back (yet).

Jesus that's a good price! Was it ex lease or something? Bf mk2 with some cash for mods sounds like a decent option, otherwise FGs are sweet, I've got an FG and probably biased but I think it looks a bit nicer too, but that could just be cause it's newer. You'll be happy no matter which way you go. Good luck!

Cheers I'll PM you when I've got it sorted, at this stage probably either 20th September (if I'm over the jet lag) or 3rd October, so long as it's not raining. That's a serious time on such a twisty track well done! Beat plenty of cars a hell of a lot better suited to the track then our taxis lol. Probably do the rubber seals too thanks for the info. Going to just get two of the Michs put on tomorrow, keep the two best 452s on and take off the Michs for the R888s at the track, should be sweet.

So now I'm wondering if maybe I'll keep just the best 2 from the falkens, that way combined (hopefully) with nelsonians R888s, or even not, then it should save my new Michs, I should be able to easily store 2 falkens in the garage, and just get them put on the car the day before the track day. What do you guys think? Am I over thinking this? Good compromise? Need a slap and just go with the Michs and maybe R888s? Did the oil change a few weeks ago Nulon 10-40w (coming from stock erk), bleeding brakes on the weekend hopefully with dot 5.1 fluid, got the brakes sorted, is it worth removing the rubber seal around the edge of the bonnet, I've seen it mentioned to do that, is it hard (or even possible) to put it back on? Is it damaging in any other way?Thanks guys, sorry for all the repeatedly noob questions, I do a lot of kays on the car ~26-28k a yr and don't really wanna fry the new Michs too much just yet.

cars running stock power for now (famous last words), and everything else but brakes are stock, no major upgrades planned for 18 months when I renew the novated lease on it. Ok so I'll change the brake fluid, I just wasn't that keen on doing it but I don't think it will be too hard, can't be as hard as when I replaced my rotors and pads. Thanks for the tips for the track day. I hope you still have the R888s in Sept I'm sure I'll have a blast, it will be good to learn to control the car properly too, really can't wait but have to at the moment since I've got a lot on. Hopefully I'll see you at the track, I'll let you know when Im heading out, and thanks for all the advice.

Ha that'd be an awesome deal for a case of beer! Even shagged semi slicks should smoke streets? Only problem is I don't think I can make Wakefield till late September :( I've just got the one set of the stock 245/40 R18s (xr8 option). I guess I should just toss the old ones, keep the wife happy, and be safe for the next few thousand street kms. Would it mess the balance of the car running your semi's on the rear with the Michs on the front? RE the brakes, a local performance brake shop laughed me away saying I'd be fine with the stock brake fluid, that and at the time I wasn't keen on bleeding the brakes shyed me away from it. But, now I've gone through putting the brakes on I think changing the brake fluid would be pretty easy. But pretty happy with the brake upgrade so far, still bedding in though and the front grip lets the braking down atm. BTW I've watched some of you track day vids and they looked pretty awesome, I'm super keen to hit the track, just hope I don't end up getting bitten too hard and need to spend lots of money (that I dont have) lol. Just noticed how many spelling mistakes Ive got in my first post, guess I was in a rush on my iphone at lunch to post lol, hate fat fingering the letters and auto correct.