Bulletime

Finally got around to installing the rear breather catch can, got prompted after the intake on the turbo was off recently and there was a bit too much oil there for everyones liking. Likely because I track it. Will do the front breather too but since from all reports its the rear that has the most oil captured I did that one first. If this one doesnt fall off ill do the other one on the weekend hopefully.

Haha yeah it sucks, surely they must be working on one, if I can figure out the wiring and canbus surely they can make one. Id possibly swap out my stuff if they got one working. I mainly want the plug and harness. Ah all good mines in there good atm but interested to see where u go with it, it could be something I swap out long term. Thanks for the offer though!! That would be wicked if u could design something up. Something that secures in the pins and clips then in solidly would be awesome. The pics themselves cant push in backwards because of their shape which prevented me being able to use the plug I have (see above). Really needs way to push them in and lock them so I dunno maybe an arm that comes from behind and clips then in if that makes sense. Sort of like what ive got above but cut in half at the right point and u could out the pins in individually then close it up and it would clip together and hold then in place. Or just any way that puts forward pressure into the plug in the car that clips and locks then in place

Hey mate that's looks awesome great job!! Keen to see that fully installed! Once u have it finished would you be willing to share your file? I had thought 3d printing would come up with the cleanest setup but I dont have a 3d printer, I have a mate who bought one recently so might be time to play if urs is a good base. Is urs a mk2 or fg? What size is the screen? Haha all good if it works and tbh its clean and still looks factory then u cant really complain. Theres other solutions on the other forums with an oled display off the arduino reading the hvac settings off the canbus but I want mine to look clean and factory. The hvac is simple enough to operate ive managed fine without a screen. I was speaking to someone on another car audio forums once and that connector that's on the kayhan unit (and the factory icc, aka the acm plug) is only something that can be sourced and ordered in the thousands. I originally got one of these off someone and was thinking about making my own harness but on reflection as a noob solderer I was dreaming to think I could make it work. I ended up pulling the pins and soldiering those to the head units wiring harness so at the very least in the acm the connections themselves are in nicely they just dont have the extra holding pressure of the connector clicked into place. Early on I had one or two come loose but over time as ive reseated the odd one that came loose theyve stayed in solidly since. I even track my car however im afraid to hit the ripple strips and have any rattle out. Other crazy ideas beyond finding someone with a kayhan one they have no need for has been maybe glue gun them in or even fire proof spray foam, just anything to secure them that little bit more. Otherwise a pcb on too of the connector could work and not be too hard. Yeah the aerpro one ive seen shots of. Not a fan of the looks of it but its good there will be another option for ppl. If they sold a wiring harness like heaps of their other car facias and wiring thatd be sweet id buy one.

Hey mate any update on how you went about getting that displayed? I wondered if u just jammed a camera in front of the screen tucked away but having it reversed in one photo made me think your playing with the screen output somehow. Really keen on any info u can provide? Also if u or anyone would happen to have a kayhan wiring harness laying around from an old kayhan install or if theres any insider audio industry stuff on how to make a proper harness. this is really one of the last bits that would be nice to tidy up. I track my car and everything seems solid now in the icc plug but ive had a couple things come loose once or twice

Interesting. This is where I went with it and hit a brick wall...

Did u get the cga out to work??? How?? I tried as you would see on the australian ford forums

Ive got one too, surprising how tucked away it is I doubt most passengers would notice, yet easy to get to

So keen to see how this goes!!!

This might be a stupid question but is it just for looks that everyone goes AN fittings everywhere including off the engine? I mean stock is pretty simple hose cable tied on, even on high boost engines... yet ppl say -10 to -12 or you’ll be in trouble with high boost? Also looks good epic amount of oil on the back breather, I definitely need to get around to installing mine

One comment on the motive video was at least it’ll push gtx prices down [emoji1787]

[emoji119][emoji119][emoji119][emoji119] id love to do this to my wifes 2015 petrol territory, big coin doing it right like u have. Well done! Sleeper!

Sadly it broke on 3rd to 4th shift with slicks on at the circuit. Waste of 2k plus tow plus off the road for a while. Was in there about 18 months. Now I have a 6r80 input shaft and a cf tailshaft

I did my nizpro billet input shaft at 409rwkw with the gen 1 gtx3576 on e85 at 21psi with a zf tune so will attest to driveline weaknesses... I almost wanna sell off my gen 1 supercore for a gen2, especially since I only missed out on gen 2 by maybe 12 months. I think I should wait for gen 3 or g35-900 supercores though [emoji38]

Awesome to hear! I thought about the 380 mark on 98. The g35-900 must really be something special again to be even more efficient, saw a sema video and it sounds like theyll keep improving, impressive to see things getting more and more efficient. Seen on some US sites the g35-1050 comes in a supercore so that's promising. Still the gen 2 gtxs are proving awesome.

Or try the new g35 900 from the new garret g series. Same size as the 3576 but should spool the same or better and hit mid 400s. One other guy on the forums going to give it a try, pretty new for the falcon, currently only vband so probably have to buy a complete turbo and manifold. Ill keep my eye on it and hope it becomes a well worn path in a year or two with a few more fitment options. If you have the sprint u could just give it a mild tune and leave it mostly stock. Hard to resist though I understand, but will be hard to find an unmolested one in the future. Fwiw gtx3576 gen 2 on e85 have seen at 420, did a 10.8 quarter. Unsure its 98 figure, but the difference in my gen 1 is 43 up too so would be somehwere around 380, maybe less if not full exhaust. Also pcmtec dont recommend holding launch control for too too long as it cooks your turbo

Run it down the quarter and see what it gets. Theres very much a difference between “feels fast” and actually being fast. Breaking traction and seeming mental is actually slow at those power levels. Take running factory dunflops as an example, they broke traction and felt wild. Then add some real grip and itll hook up but will likely be pretty fast. I had a run stock v stock yrs ago vs a mate. I had great rubber and him povo, I blitzed him by car lengths up through 1st and 2nd. Its cool too if u want feels fast vs actually fast, its possible u just need more power and or sh*tter tyres [emoji1787]

I feel like quiet probably means more efficient as there are less blades inefficiently cutting through the air having friction that make noise. Looking forward to seeing the results, especially spool comparisons.

This makes me pretty interested! I also track my falcon and the gtx 3576 gen 1, I dont think I need more power but had thought the gen 2 if ever but something that spools better than the 3582 and has a bit more power than what I have could be something to look at in the future

Post 27 in the for forums thread Is how I got the steering wheel controls working, kmx with his alpine used something different that he probably didnt need to. Its a basic resistive circuit and works great. To quote myself “ I also got the steering wheel controls working, it was a bit backwards but you have to complete the circuit on steering wheel controls getting power from the headunit on key 1 or key 2 and ground the other pin. So 1204 to key 1 and 729 to ground. “ The headunits then typically have an app where you program what resistance for what function. Its simply a matter of pressing a steering wheel button and associating that with play slips volume up down etc. pretty straight forward.

Keithy is right but damper adjustable coilovers is the best way to get a falcon to handle as best as it can. I have teins and full soft for the street and full hard on slicks for the track for full #racecar. Poly bushes all up front help with turn in and sharpens everything up, I wouldnt say that takes too much refinement away and a bf unless replaces already probably has shagged bushes all round which wont help anything. U can make a falcon handle decent, trim out body roll and sharpen up response, it cant ever be a light nimble little thing that you can chuck into roundabouts. But with grip, good wheel alignment adjustable coilovers and a race track it can get a lot better. Very hard to do on the street though as the line between losing it and hammering through the corners is a very fine line and one you should really only test at the track.

E85! At least get a tune for it and go out of your way to get it even as a treat. Builds power earlier, harder and for longer, my 98 tune tapers off while the e85 holds on for longer. Top end is 46rwkw difference but mid range is more like 65rwkw. This is at 21psi. Feels lame at 363rwkw on 98, can flog it more but it feels more alive on the e85, grip really becomes an issue and feathering/feeding the throttle is an absolute must. Ive been wondering if theres something with more power higher up but still the savage low down of the gtx3576 but doesnt seem to be, or the cost of changing rear housings or exhaust manifolds makes it not worth it for the gains. Also can get plenty in trouble as it is on the street with one of these anyway... From what u say u want u need e85 to get there even as I say its for weekends or something.

Haha this is true, I think in fact that was the first set of photos I ever took when I first got my T home, stock af too. There we go though updated, can just see my 6 pot brembos too [emoji108]

Just did my axle seal and repco drive shaft on the right hand side. Didnt end up needing to cut any off for my enkeis to fit. I think the drive shaft must have been unhappy because things sound a bit quieter back there now. Repco shaft definitely looks meatier than the stock one

that's a no. And the seal puller didnt get it done, flat head from underneath gave me the leverage I needed, just couldnt lever it at all with the puller. Mine was pretty stuck in there so dunno maybe it helped but in the end the screw driver got it out in no time (after a lot of time wrestling the seal remover tool)

I have the Gtx3576 on e85 with full exhaust and im at 409rwkw. The gen 2 though ive seen ppl get about 420. I dont think theres a better combo on the street. Its an animal down low! Twins are just unnecessary now days.