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danielknox281

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  1. Hey mate hopefully you get this, I was hoping to put a different knob on it, if I remove just the knob I should be able to just screw the new one on?
  2. Ba mk2 turbo ute so I found a massive thread on suspension that had a lot of accurate information but I was hoping someone could help summarise it a little bit. I took my Ute on a mountain drive the other week and remembered that the steering on tight corners feels sluggish and a bit incapable. I know it’s a Ute with leaf springs at the end of the day and not a race car but I was considering getting strong control arms and/or coilovers. Ute has a white line sway bar in the front and bilstien shocks (not sure of springs). If anyone could help explain what is going to mak
  3. Any tips for how to remove the manual gear knob?? Mines a ba
  4. Also do you know if the standard diff for a bamk2 turbo Ute would be m86? Need to make sure my true track is the m86 one
  5. Interesting I had no idea, the first owner may have put the 6 speed in! I think I’ll try 4.11 anyway. Thanks mate
  6. Isn’t the t56 the factory 6 speed manual? I assume it’s been changed anyway as the previous owner installed a big tailshaft and true track, I’ll count the crown wheel teeth before I buy anything. But yeah certainly wanting more torque down low and acceleration at any cost
  7. Can anyone advice which will be the best ‘short’ gear ratio for a t56 (ba Ute) as my gears seem to be very long and looking for more acceleration and wheel spin. Thanks!
  8. So I’m nearing the time to build a new Barra for my Ute. I’m a bit overwhelmed by all the different info Out there and really need a steer in the right direction. Opinions or links to an existing thread would be really helpful! Basically I don’t know whether I should covert a gas Barra, buy an fg turbo Barra or n/a fg Barra and convert im looking for around 400kw, or as much as I can make with the setup I choose. Willing to spend 10 or 15k and I already have a gt3582 (needs a rebuild) from my current motor, 1000cc injectors, walbro 360 (I think) fuel pump, HD timing cha
  9. Yeah all stock bottom end and apparently ba Conrods love to bend with high tourqe and low revs. I’m making my boost and tourque at high revs and maybe that’s the “safe” aspect of the tune. I guess that’s how the ba barras were designed, whereas the fg barras have the smaller turbo, come onboost quicker and have the stronger bottom end to handle it. Has anyone heard of people running around 15psi at the 350kw mark on a ba turbo I motor?
  10. That is what I would imagine, maybe the tactic of running such high boost for this power is that it comes on late, and then holds traction due to more rolling momentum. Maybe the solution is running 14 or 15 pound boost (or smaller turbo) so that I have my boost spike at 3k rather than 4K? It’s slow at I <3 Bananas before 3k and after that see you later. Not very useful in the street though by that time you are doing speeds high enough for the cops to crush it if you get caught 👎 ideally I I would love to have it tuned with traction control option so I can have the best of both
  11. I know 20psi is quite a bit but I figured most people around the 300 350 mark we’re running similar boost. Like I said boost starts around 3k, comes on slowly and spikes hard at maybe 4K and my that time it’s hauling ass too much to lose traction. when cutting hoops it will bake my tyres but it will throw itself around very fast and charge forward as soon as I correct the steering as it still has a decent amount of traction I have heard of people with less than 300kw having a daily struggle of losing traction everywhere so something is fairly different in my car. Had it tested for
  12. G’day! I am wanting to get some opinions/advice about my bamk2 Ute. I bought it a few years ago tuned with a “moderate street tune” at 350kw 20psi with most standard engine upgrades as well as most of the drive train other than gear box being upgraded. the problem is that it has too much traction, in normal weather etc it can hold almost full traction through all gears. Only on a cold or wet day can it break traction without turning sharply or dropping/kicking the clutch. It shreds my tyres to sh*t once break traction and hold it, but even then it is very quick to regain it w
  13. Gapped the plugs to 0.7 and put the coils in too but its still missingthe same when its hot. It has had a smaller battery put in in order to fit the other mods and also has a sound system. But still sitson normal voltage when its running and hasnt had issues starting or anything. Not sure what to look for next
  14. yeah I worried it might be eletrical as it might be a pain in the ass to find what it is. I spose il know once theyre in and will look for other possibilities if it still misses. I cleaned out my throttle body the other day and checked my air filter too so im hoping its the coils/plugs. ah okay well I have the tapered blade ones at home so if theyre more accurate I might try those!
  15. yeah sweet I found a little circle gauge that I can buy and use. either way I have heard different opinions about gapping? it makes sense to gap them at 0.7 instead when running higher boost but some shops recommend other wise. it dosent have much breakup under load or when its cold, but after its been hot it it has a single miss (when I got it) and now seems to miss on 2 cylinders. Even if coils and plugs dont solve the problem they are near 2 years old so need to be done anyway. also the miss clears out when the radiator kicks in?
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