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4321 last won the day on April 25 2018

4321 had the most liked content!

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  1. So keep away from them? any other suggestions or stick with known products ( thought they were made in aust. that's all)
  2. Hi, need a new driveshaft for my sedan, has anyone had any luck with torqueline garage? they have two drive shaft types- '800 HP' for $700/pair or '1400 HP' for $1400/pair. Anyone have any opinions or other suggestions? sounds like they are special order & won't make them (or get them made) unless they have 5 orders. Appears to bolt in with no mods. Car has 440RWKW and is not really low (shockworks recommended height). Do I bite the bullet & get a set from diff technics (even though I don't think I need that strong)? .
  3. that's not a good idea! When you undo the fuel module the tank will empty to just under half with fuel going everywhere, bloody dangerous!
  4. engine bay wiring loom + ecu, dash + icc + keys & locks, fuel pump is different on turbo (even though it's not much chop) exhaust, turbo brakes are slightly bigger. What k31th is trying to point out it's a hell of a lot of work, not impossible but heaps of work. My mate did the same on a fg ute, with a hoist (and a forklift) in a day and a half on his own, crossmember unbolted with suspension, motor & box in 1 hit, full dash with looms etc... Just remember these were designed to build in a hurry so if you know the sequence it's not as hard (providing you have equipment) as it may seem. Just don't try mixing up the electronics if you don't have access to a scan tool
  5. that will fix 1 part off it, but what about the bolt/ diff housing breaking? I know it's more money but the IMS system seems to be the way to go
  6. Control blade bush's, change oil (crap job when it's fitted)
  7. The main difference is pistons, rods and exhaust valves. Why not put something decent while your nearly there? Dont forget to sort the dipstick out before you put the BA sump back on
  8. 4321

    AFR Gauge Read High

    Above the oil filter is the oil temp switch, unscrew it & fit a mechanical guage to check what is actually happening (for peace of mind)
  9. Ignor this bloke's advice at your own peril
  10. Main difference is the amp, no amp means no wiring plugs or sub wiring+ inner boot lining is shaped to clear amp. Loom is changeable, time consuming but not hard.
  11. Depends on how 'well' you want to fix it. $6-800 for standard bush but it depends on what other ones are stuffed. Rear cross member has to be removed. Poor quality diffs are noisy, so the noise doesn't transfer to the cabin ford put soft (weak) bush's in. Be aware of this with your choice of replacement bushes. Aftermarket might be stronger but...
  12. I assume it's got a boost guage on it, while I'd check with jet first, what about hooking the actuator hose straight from the port to the actuator to by pas the electronic boost control to work out if it's a electronic or mechanical issue. just keep a eye on the boost guage to see what's happening & get off the throttle if boost is to high
  13. 4321

    BCM change

    nearly any workshop with a scan tool can do it If not ring a couple of dealers & compare quotes
  14. Wiring plugs are completely different. To get everything to work you have to change every loom, the bcm, the parking aid, air bag control etc.. Not impossible but a hell of a job. Perhaps look at the kayhan conversion (when they have a few more bugs worked out) FG or FG2?

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