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4321

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4321 last won the day on April 25 2018

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  1. I agee with jet, had a couple of tunes from joe, minor problem with cold start on E85 , he couldn't do enough to help. just give him a call & see if it can be sorted.
  2. It's proberly to late now, but why didn't you go to the wreckers & get good panels in the colour you wanted? ( I reckon white would have been dead easy to find) that'll save you painting the inside of them at least.
  3. air is usually introduced in to the system by a faulty master cyl/ resovoir (remotely mounted in this case) . If there are any 'leaks' in the system it will be leaking fluid after the master cyl as it is pressurized after this point. Most likly the master cyl leaking air into the system on the return cycle (tried very hard not to say return stroke!)
  4. Powerglide, C/F tailshaft 'factory' diff (IRS) 1400hp axels!! I think there's a lot more to that under the back of the car but that's all they're saying.
  5. It's just a tin plate (sort of) ford parts people refer to it as a 'tractor seat' . It's held to seat rail by13mm nuts, once you've changed one over you relaise the hardest part is getting the seat out! Last time I checked the metal plate was about $90 (about 4 years ago!) but the foam was nearly $300! that's why I suggested a S/H p/ side seat to get a less used foam, but the XR foam is different to XT or Fairmont The tin plate is the same on all of them
  6. Pretty common, steel base is the same L&R , find a used passengers seat & change it over- the covers just clip on & use the foam from the doner (passengers seat should have less wear). pretty simple job.
  7. no there not . You have to use the BCM (box on the bottom that the 5 wiring plugs go into) that comes with the car. at least it will start then, but you need someone with a scan tool to code the radio to get that to work, then if yours is single zone A/C & the new one is dual zone..... a lot of work (dash out to get it to work properly) but any thing can be done! they will accept a reversing camera. Have you looked at a KAYHAN icc, more $ but heaps less work!
  8. Put a volt meter on the battery as some one else try's to start it, should be around 10v if it's under this replace battery, if it stays around 12-13v change starter. because you get a 'clack' from the starter the ignition switch, inhibitor, ecu & relay are working. You earthed the jump pack to the block so I assume that the earth is OK . Starters are cheap but they're not easy to change. I recon the FG ones turn the engine over faster & will fit after you cut the extra tag off
  9. The drama with the BA turbo engines is the connecting rod (jet once described the as 'glass') so any mods you do you have to be aware of this limitation and have another engine available for when (not if) rodney pays you a visit. BFII onwards are a much better starting base. Make sure your tuner knows the limitations of a BA turbo engine and don't excced them.
  10. EGR's were originaly used to lower combustion temps to save valves from burning out. It doesn't operate under power so there is no performance difference, by adding a "inert filler" into the intake charge you will see a marked improvement in economy (if they added just air it would run lean at cruise leading to an increase in NOX emmissions and lets face it- do you want to be responsible for the death of all those koalas? ) I think the EGR's heat exchangers are a consumable item like our ZF heat exchangers
  11. Why would you want to disable the EGR? You should do some research on why it's there ( it's not only emissions)
  12. With my gibson shaft chasing same vibrations, new engine & gearbox mounts, spacers under the centre bearing, replacing diff bush's, back to gibsons, took it to hardy spicer and it turned out to be 'bent' Another $400 to them but at least it's fixed (%90 because of IMS hat)
  13. On a stock ba you should check why the boost is so high before it puts a leg out of bed
  14. Try turning on the headlights & then try to start it, if they go really dull then it's your battery
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