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4321 last won the day on April 25 2018

4321 had the most liked content!

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  1. Wiring plugs are completely different. To get everything to work you have to change every loom, the bcm, the parking aid, air bag control etc.. Not impossible but a hell of a job. Perhaps look at the kayhan conversion (when they have a few more bugs worked out) FG or FG2?
  2. It,s got a alloy bend. I have even thought of making a box which is open at the frount so (in theory) most of the noise is away from the cabin but I'll try these 2 suggestions first. thanks for your input
  3. Hi, I'm getting annoyed about the induction noise of my turbo side air filter. Is there any way of quietening it down? I have found a 'under' battery air filter but it is for BA/BF wonder if this would fit? But the next problem will be where do I fit the trans cooler? At 440rwkw will the PWR kit be alright? (the one that's next to the gearbox) or is it best to frount mount the cooler?
  4. I know it's not exactly the way you wanted to go, but what about a atomic long engine (with warranty!) All the R&D's done, brad's done heaps of them, then just concentrate on the bolt on's. answer to the blocks, they are all the same other than the dipstick hole- BA's & BF's at the frount, FG's at the rear, so if you get the wrong block redrill it before you assemble it. I would assume the newer the engine the less corrosion. But get it checked anyway, easier now than after a split bore!
  5. make sure they used the engine loom of the old mtr . It shouldn't throw codes if everything is plugged in (like the 3 plugs under the ecu, very easy to latch 1 up without it being seated first)
  6. The motors are the same, BUT a built motor is better in the long run (remember oil pump gears, head studs, valve springs all come with a built motor as well as some kind of warranty) I know people can be sarcastic on here, but alot of them have learned the hard way on what should be done, or in other words sift through the crap & take note of the advice being given. It will save you a lot of pain & $ in the long run
  7. You have to have the codes to try to work out whats wrong. I think autobarn will read codes but a cheap scanner is proberly the way to go $80 and you own it, while it wont do everything they're easy to use & you only pay once. If it's boost related is the exhaust std?
  8. There's a restriction in the fuel return at the bottom of the pump module that has to be enlarged
  9. Or diff needs rebuild (quality's pretty poor from new- that's why they have soft diff bush's to minimize noise being transferred to cabin =warranty claim)
  10. Or blow by from broken ring lands
  11. 4321

    Ford Upholstery

    The original wheel would have been supplied by roman autotec (RAT global now) they sometimes have specials on their website of old stock (I bought a blue leather steering wheel for my AU years ago) Worth a look
  12. Wasn't jet doing remote tuning at one stage? (don't know if he's got time or inclination)
  13. Check that the pins in the tail light are not bent where you plug them in (done that before!)
  14. If it has a different fuel pump it might have to much fuel pressure (there are 2 restrictions in the return setup) get the fuel pressure checked before you try to fix a hardware problem with a software fix
  15. Gutting the cat always makes it louder. They will act as a muffler (sort of). a straight peice of pipe should be welded inside the gutted cat for better air flow. Years ago our local exhaust place used to sell convertor shells that welded onto a straight peice to make it look like it had a cat there

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