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4321

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4321 last won the day on April 25

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  1. Fg Mk2 Satnav Not Working

    Can't be done anymore, used to buy a voucher from ford & they would log on & update it. No more vouchers left & the mob that did it is not interested in this system any more. Perhaps look at the kayhan screen conversion with different maps (and for extra $ apple carplay or android auto)
  2. Rear sump is a fg, but remember the pickup will still be low (pumps at the frount of engine and there's a extra casting in the bottom of the sump to clear it)
  3. That's just the key reader they will need the key ( and therefor the barrel) & the matching BEM & ECU The key reader justs sends the info to the BCM & it decides what happens from there. Also throw in the drivers door lock & glove box lock to match the ignition key
  4. American here! I have a few Barra questions.

    the length is the same as your old 221- the engine mounts even bolt on! (this was done so the barra could go down the same production line as the old 221/250 engines & fit their jigs for machining)
  5. Running Rich / Poor Economy

    Theorectly it should make no difference but if there is a problem with earthing (remember we are dealing with less than 1 volt) it can't hurt
  6. Running Rich / Poor Economy

    0.9 at idle is rich, it should oscillate between 0.2 (lean ) & 0.8v. Like I said you have to work out if it's running rich or if the sensor is wrong. You've changed it 3 times so I'd say that's not the problem. This is why reading your fuel trims is a usefull bit of info. 0% is the base program and it's +or - is how much the ecu is having to change the program to oscillate around 0.45v (which is stoichiometric 'perfect' mixture) it should go either side of this value trying to keep as close as it can to this reading at idle & cruise (it will go rich on acceleration, 0.8-0.9v) Next is to get your fuel pressure checked. stft are whats happening now & ltft are what it's modifying the program based on what it's seen over time
  7. Running Rich / Poor Economy

    These cars have only 1 temp sensor, in the back of the head. If it is not working correctly it will show up on the temp guage- if its been running for 10 min & it says cold I would smell a rat! On the scan tool you should be able to read the O2 sensor, what readings are you getting? , should be between 0.1 to0.8v just remember this info is coming from the ecu so if its wrong 1 or more sensors are sending wrong info. Check your stf trims they should be around 0 (+or_ 5%) If your 02 reading is wrong (ie reading lean) the ecu will add fuel (positive fuel trim) to try & fix the 'problem" While looking at the fuel trims add another earth to the engine (1 jumper lead from batt (-) to a engine earth) & see if the stft changes (it shouldn't)
  8. Oil return line leak

    hopefully the bolt was to short & only stripped the outer 1/2 of the thread leaving some thread at the inner part of the hole
  9. Oil return line leak

    It should be blind, here's hoping there are 3 or 4 threads at the bottom of the hole that a slightly longer bolt can pick up. Did you consider a mobile thread repair bloke?, it's only a phone call & if he says 'nick off' nothing lost he might only want $80 AND it's got warranty
  10. Oil return line leak

    taps come in 3 stages, a 'starting 'one with a long champher, a intermediate & a bottoming (insert jokes here) tap with the thread cutters going nearly all the way to the end This is so you can get as much thread in the hole as possible (remember its not supposed to go through) put plenty of grease on the tap to pick up the debris You will have to drill & tap if you decide to helicoil. Did you try a longer bolt in case there's some thread left in the bottom of the hole?
  11. Oil return line leak

    The threads into the sump are blind, so you only have to block the return hole. With your fresh oil just drain it into a clean container & put it back in when your finished. The helicoil can be bought as a kit with the right drill bit. You can even buy a right angle adaptor for your drill if it's to long to fit in. Measure the depth of the hole & transfer this measurement to your drill bit with some masking tape- do not drill through! plan B is ring a mobile thread repair bloke & get out of his way!
  12. Changing rear brembo rotors

    It's important to get the rotor to sit on the hub properly. It's too late now but you should have sanded the hub between the wheel studs to remove the rust
  13. Changing rear brembo rotors

    The adjuster is at 4 or 2 oçlock, cant remember which one It's not directly in line with the hole, more towards the outside.it works the same as a nut which you turn with a flat blade screw driver- its right hand thread & as you turn it the 'bolt' part (which has a slot cut into it to engage onto the brake shoe) can't turn so the 'nut' force's the bolt out of it's hole taking up the excess adjustment, turning the 'nut' the other way will release the adjuster & the rotor should come off. If the rotor is lose on the hub I WOULDN'T use a puller as you are forcing the' over adjusted" brake shoe over a lip that has worn inside the disc (similar to the lip on the outer edge of the rotor in your picture)
  14. Changing rear brembo rotors

    Sounds like you have to back the hand brake adjustment off. (if its moving you broken the rust 'seal') It's the toothed wheel at around 2 or4 oçlock through the hole between the wheel studs
  15. SIMBADS TREAD

    the 'woodgrain' on the wheel match's the spears on the dash, maybe try & get the set?


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