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4321 last won the day on April 25 2018

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  1. Put a volt meter on the battery as some one else try's to start it, should be around 10v if it's under this replace battery, if it stays around 12-13v change starter. because you get a 'clack' from the starter the ignition switch, inhibitor, ecu & relay are working. You earthed the jump pack to the block so I assume that the earth is OK . Starters are cheap but they're not easy to change. I recon the FG ones turn the engine over faster & will fit after you cut the extra tag off
  2. The drama with the BA turbo engines is the connecting rod (jet once described the as 'glass') so any mods you do you have to be aware of this limitation and have another engine available for when (not if) rodney pays you a visit. BFII onwards are a much better starting base. Make sure your tuner knows the limitations of a BA turbo engine and don't excced them.
  3. EGR's were originaly used to lower combustion temps to save valves from burning out. It doesn't operate under power so there is no performance difference, by adding a "inert filler" into the intake charge you will see a marked improvement in economy (if they added just air it would run lean at cruise leading to an increase in NOX emmissions and lets face it- do you want to be responsible for the death of all those koalas? ) I think the EGR's heat exchangers are a consumable item like our ZF heat exchangers
  4. Why would you want to disable the EGR? You should do some research on why it's there ( it's not only emissions)
  5. With my gibson shaft chasing same vibrations, new engine & gearbox mounts, spacers under the centre bearing, replacing diff bush's, back to gibsons, took it to hardy spicer and it turned out to be 'bent' Another $400 to them but at least it's fixed (%90 because of IMS hat)
  6. On a stock ba you should check why the boost is so high before it puts a leg out of bed
  7. Try turning on the headlights & then try to start it, if they go really dull then it's your battery
  8. And you might have to drill the dipstick hole (depending on how later the fg block is ie early fg blocks were supposedly drilled for both with frount hole capped off) fg heads are supposedly better than earlier ones
  9. I had to 'trim' mine when I fitted it and cut of one plastic upper bar of the radiator support panel. Proberly not legal but can't be seen when reassembled (after trimming plastic behind upper grille )
  10. Yes they are stronger, but still not strong enough. Probably enough for std even if there old but turn the boost up & that extra pressure will reveal any weakness. Best to budget a spring change & maybe head studs while your there?
  11. Even if it falls out in 2 mins, it will tell you if that has something to do with the noise & then you can look for a permanent solution or look elsewhere
  12. If you think it's a spring leaf problem, jack the car up prise the leafs apart & jam some plastic sheet in there & take it for a drive to see if the noise alters. At least you narrowed it down to what side it is!
  13. Remember that when its running the oil pressure will take up some of the movement. Forward & back is bad for turbo's but up & down is not that bad, as k31th said, as long as it doesn't touch
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