Boosting_G6E

hey sorry for the late reply well I did both wheel bearings started of with the left side the bearing cap looked pretty scoured a few tiny pieces of flakes replaced it and no change the left side tells me it would be more worn etc which it was but no change so I did the drivers side rear the bearing looked perfect there was very very minimal pitting and it was in fresh grease still no metal shavings etc I was about to put it back together but thought why not replace it I believe I may have the bearing on the wrong way but seems to be fine will keep an eye on it for the next few months anyway the noise I had was very prominent at 45 to 55KM , it was not overly loud but sounded just like a diff howl changing directions etc didn't change it much which had me worried I also thought it was the old hard 7 year old tyres on the rear but have swapped them to the front to chew them out quicker to get some new ones I am just utterly confused at how a bearing that spun up pretty quiet and had a fair bit of resistance could have been the grease but had no visible signs of wear was the culprit

Nah Adelaide Appreciate that so much But in the past I had a na xr6 ute fg and it was marginally quieter it's odd 😅

Hey new owner to a xr6 FG here have only had the car for 4 -5K km but its louder then my last FG ute have got some rear end noise which I cant pin point it sounds as if it is coming from the rear left hand side rear wheel like tyre noise was wondering do these bearings go often for you guys and if so do they start sounding like noisy tyres as I am experiencing ? it really seems to be nosiest at 40-60km and consistent I believe on and off the throttle have tried jacking it up and running it to 40km on stands but its just to scary to go under it etc

Hey dont want to make anther thread so the side bolts to the sump the maincap bolts which hold the sump mine seem to be weaping leaking a fair bit of oil I just put this engine in had sump off though is gasket goo needed to create a better seal ? I ask as I didn't think any would have been needed

I got a similar issue I have popped the rocker cover open and found everything lined up but the 2 yellow pieces of chain to the notch 1 was on there perfect but the other was about 1/10 th of a tooth out if that literally 2mm would this cause a rough idle at times intermittent I seem to get the over retard code at times

Hey all just got a issue with a FG here not having power at the washer bottle pump fuse is good I am confused Thanks in advanced is this a common issue or

Who knows what they may have promised in a face to face conversation to OP to gain more workshop time worse than a I <3 Bananasen pedophile work shops who do this type of stuff but ya definitely go else where agree with you Fordfreak 350rwkw should be easy its nothing special as people have said been done countless times

very nice I bet that 390kw in the wife's feels alot better then cars on 98 with similar/slight more power

ah wait so you have gone boost on these eco lpi's? so around 350rwkw would be a hiccup of needing more fuel? is that with out boosting the pump settings as I defintly wouldn't want to touch anything there which may sacrifise pump life probably not an everyday thing but have got larger jets here for it already when / if I go boost also, the pump is multiple speed but I notice the PWM if we call it is so dead accurate due to having a sensor in the rail / OEM level tune But is it the concept as what Ralphy etc are chasing?

yea your the man with these barras! how did live tuning end up going?

ya would be very nice would even keep the heat of the fuel down marginally but how many "customers" would opt for this option?

what powers Ralph running / pump set up I guess it's just the price we got to pay though a noisy pump at idle hah but for your own car it would be nice addition to show your skills

Hah and I think I own one actually haven't bothered to do a thing am tempted to buy the sct x4 for sale but ford tune is pretty spot on from factory I can't believe I said that hah a far more advanced system than ALL your xr6t's running "heavy duty" side feed v10 viper injectors face palm

hah who else knows this

is Ralph a tuner him self just curious seems as if the guy knows his stuff and ya should idle fine from 11:1 to close 17:1 which it does, easy way I find is to block of the FPR vacuum so it raise's pressure saves jumping to tablet to edit tune whilst on the subject to form a VE table, is it true its slightly easier with a boosted application have only done a few cars in past still the same concept obviously but was a bit fiddly also in vcm suite is there a way we can go by pulse width instead of target a/f ratio if that is possible would make it 100 x easier for me