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El Andrew

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El Andrew last won the day on March 17

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About El Andrew

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    Canberra ACT

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  1. I did the whole DBYD thing a couple of years back - is all online now and you get something back from each utility provider. The gas one came back just as "there are gas services at your property". The repair guy said if you ring the gas network provider direct they will come out for free and paint up where all the lines are and use their depth detectors to tell you how deep. I know for next time!
  2. Yeah was digging a pit to connect up some new stormwater to the clay pipe. Gas was only 250mm deep and without warning tape so that's a bit annoying. I was still the idiot with the spade though. Gives you a decent fright when it goes [emoji23]
  3. I had fun afternoon yesterday - hit the gas supply with the spade.
  4. I might be remembering wrong, but I'm sure one of the hoses could just bridge the gap between the two hard connections once the cooler was removed and nothing extra needed
  5. I *think* my info above might be incorrect based on some photos I can find. Yes you need two fittings if you are just using normal trans hose. One fitting is for the ZF but it looks like that is already 90 degree. Then you need to adapt the AN -8 male end of that ZF fitting to a 3/8 male barb. I think above I have details of a 90 degree adaptor for the second part, but it is a straight adaptor you need. So a -8 AN female to 3/8 barb male straight adaptor. Unfortunately I don't have the car to confirm.
  6. If you have stat warranty have you taken it back to the dealer to check? Most mechanics will do the equivalent of a prepurchase inspection pretty cheap which would flush out any other warranty issues you can get sorted. Could potentially be the side diff bushes. I even had a bad clunk with a new Nolathane rear diff bush because the mechanic had installed it backwards!
  7. Hey Keith. WRX life still going well here. I was in Adelaide over Easter and had a rental Tesla Model 3 which was another interesting automotive experience. Personally, would not buy: -The wind noise was awful. Sounded like a kettle was whistling at any speed above 30. Did some searching and apparently quite common. Can be rear view mirrors or can be panel fit. I suspect the latter as seemed to be coming from the bonnet and roof. -Steering feels very remote. Is like driving on a PlayStation. -Lane wandering warning was atrocious. Would tell you you were drifting from your lane when your weren't. Would not tell you when you were. Accurate maybe 30% of the time. -Ditto traffic light warning. Multiple alerts to say lights had gone green when they hadn't. -Ditto collision warning. Just about caused an international incident with the car automatically avoiding a small pothole. -The dash is sleek and minimal which looks nice. But having to look down and across constantly for a small digit on the screen for speed gets tiring real quick. You can configure shortcuts, but when it starts raining and lights and wipers aren't easily available it is annoying. Three button presses to get to the screen to open the glovebox! -The screen that shows traffic around was always inaccurate and erratic. A bit frightening if that info is the basis for Autopilot in other countries. -A lot of clunks and rattles for a car with 25k km on it. In fairness, it was a rental. The torque up to about 80 is great so I don't mind the idea of an electric car for commuting. But I'd get something from a more proven manufacturer that had thought out the features better. And having some key controls and information in easy reach or sight is much better in the long term for ease of use and safety than a minimal looking dash.
  8. Maybe I should have said "waste of time in a street car in Canberra". Mine turned on once in 6 years I reckon and even then the transmission was well within its safe range. The manual override was a more useful option - I used to flick that on when the trans was warmed up and I was working it hard.
  9. Can't quite remember, but roughly: $200 for cooler with fan $70 for transmission fittings Maybe another $70 for hose, clamps, wiring and switch Don't worry about the thermo switch I used - waste of time $200 for 20L transmission fluid
  10. Start with the basics - often major symptoms end up being an easy fix. Yep, it would still crank if there was a bad coil. Is the dash lighting up ok when you key on? All other electrics good? Battery good? Check fuses Check for any fault codes Is there power at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to crank? One thing I noticed recently when replacing the ignition switch is the only new option seems to be really cheap and made me wonder how long they would last. If someone previously has been messing around with the switch or ignition barrel that is definitely a good place to start looking! If it is that (and it could be plenty of other things) I diagnosed mine with a multimeter or test light by back probing the wire connector on the ignition switch to confirm the right wires were lighting up when the switch was turned.
  11. Oh yeah that's right! I'd forgotten it was that bit!
  12. Hey mate. I honestly can't remember exactly where the other hole was, but I remember just visually tracing how fuel flows through the module to identify any restrictions so I suspect it will be obvious once you are in there. Sold the car last Friday so I can't even have a look to confirm. I did also have to adjust the low slope a little to get LTFT spot on. As Puff says this is likely just due to aftermarket dump and cat so nothing unusual. Since the above, car behaved beautifully in the years following.
  13. I might be wrong, but I'm sure I read once that the oil pressure is caused by resistance of the engine against the oil. But pressure is really just a proxy for oil flow, which is what you really want. Decent oil pressure means your pump is working, which indicates oil is flowing sufficiently to reach everywhere in your engine. If the oil thins after heaps of heat the pressure might drop at idle, but this is just because the viscosity of the oil has reduced, not that the pump is not working or the oil isn't flowing sufficiently around the engine. So thicker oil will bump the gauge up due to more resistance, making you feel better, but may have a negative impact on flow due to increased viscosity and possibly cause issues with a stock engine with tight clearances and narrow oil galleries feeding precision top end parts. I'm no expert obviously. But I'd be reluctant to start a cold stock engine with something starting with a 20 inside it.
  14. Thanks mate! Yep, you never know. Just wish I had the space for more cars!
  15. Also mine worked slightly loose, but it was just the bolts. Check those (might have to remove the inner splash guard behind the front wheel to access the nuts)
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