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El Andrew

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El Andrew last won the day on March 17

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About El Andrew

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    Canberra ACT

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  1. Start with the basics - often major symptoms end up being an easy fix. Yep, it would still crank if there was a bad coil. Is the dash lighting up ok when you key on? All other electrics good? Battery good? Check fuses Check for any fault codes Is there power at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to crank? One thing I noticed recently when replacing the ignition switch is the only new option seems to be really cheap and made me wonder how long they would last. If someone previously has been messing around with the switch or ignition barrel that is definitely a good place to start looking! If it is that (and it could be plenty of other things) I diagnosed mine with a multimeter or test light by back probing the wire connector on the ignition switch to confirm the right wires were lighting up when the switch was turned.
  2. Oh yeah that's right! I'd forgotten it was that bit!
  3. Hey mate. I honestly can't remember exactly where the other hole was, but I remember just visually tracing how fuel flows through the module to identify any restrictions so I suspect it will be obvious once you are in there. Sold the car last Friday so I can't even have a look to confirm. I did also have to adjust the low slope a little to get LTFT spot on. As Puff says this is likely just due to aftermarket dump and cat so nothing unusual. Since the above, car behaved beautifully in the years following.
  4. I might be wrong, but I'm sure I read once that the oil pressure is caused by resistance of the engine against the oil. But pressure is really just a proxy for oil flow, which is what you really want. Decent oil pressure means your pump is working, which indicates oil is flowing sufficiently to reach everywhere in your engine. If the oil thins after heaps of heat the pressure might drop at idle, but this is just because the viscosity of the oil has reduced, not that the pump is not working or the oil isn't flowing sufficiently around the engine. So thicker oil will bump the gauge up due to more resistance, making you feel better, but may have a negative impact on flow due to increased viscosity and possibly cause issues with a stock engine with tight clearances and narrow oil galleries feeding precision top end parts. I'm no expert obviously. But I'd be reluctant to start a cold stock engine with something starting with a 20 inside it.
  5. Thanks mate! Yep, you never know. Just wish I had the space for more cars!
  6. Also mine worked slightly loose, but it was just the bolts. Check those (might have to remove the inner splash guard behind the front wheel to access the nuts)
  7. Can't see why not! Took it out through the Cotter this arvo - amazing how early you can get on the power through the corner. Fun to be manual too - my last manual was an XF that was so sloppy you couldn't tell whether it was in gear or neutral. Still very sad to watch the FG go. Put a lot of time into it and was a hugely fun car to have.
  8. 1504kg vs 1773kg, so a couple of fat blokes difference
  9. Bought it. Well, my wife did. I was still riding the porcelain bus.
  10. Should get a motor treadly. Meant to be heading to Sydney tomorrow to pick up something if it matches the photos. But came down with a stomach thing tonight. Maybe I'm having a physical reaction to selling the FG [emoji23]
  11. Sold it. Felt like I had done everything I wanted to do with it and had very limited opportunity to enjoy it properly. Also finding there's heaps I want to do on the house, and quite enjoy. Haha feels like I'd just got the car almost perfect! Bloke who bought it seems really nice and like he will appreciate it. Something grippier and lighter that should be fun on a daily basis hopefully coming soon.
  12. I don't reckon you need the oil pump gears if you are auto and not bouncing it off the limiter -others might have views. Usually a 460lph pump will overwhelm the factory reg and cause high fuel pressure. Something like whatever the current equivalent to a Walbro 255 would be fine and not need a new reg. I've had that pump on a BA with factory reg. I have a turbo side with that same BOV plumbed back in now and it is borderline obnoxious for my taste. It will definitely make more noise with the stock BOV venting into the metal turbo side intake so you could try and see what you think. Changing the BOV later is a 1min job and doesn't affect your tune.
  13. I would say some of these are optional - you shouldn't need a built BTR, different BOV, battery relocation, billet pump gears for 300. Could use a smaller pump too. If you go that pump you might need an aftermarket reg. But some of that stuff is still nice to have. Regardless of power, I think the turbo side intake and battery relocation is 100% worth it just for ease of access later when working on the car, especially in a B series. Looks better too!
  14. Maths really. I wasn't convinced that car was a long termer for me. Was worth about $5k back then, $3.5k to fix it, best offer I got with it broken was $3k. Parted it for almost $7k FG is behaving itself nicely. Just drove it to the coast over the mountains. New rear end feels great. And just put DBA extreme performance pads at all four corners and they seem excellent. Definitely dustier than the street performance though.
  15. Subaru Outback with the EZ36. Has been a cracker of a car so far.
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