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THE UNFORTUNATE END TO ALL BA FORD FALCONS ARTICAL HERE! ALL BA PCM/ECU'S WILL ALWAYS FAIL THERES NO PERMANENT FIX ONLY TEMPORARY AT GREAT EXPENSE AS OF 2025 ITS 2K UPTO 3K FOR REPAIRS ITS NOT IF IT WILL FAIL ITS WHEN SADLY countless workshops have customers coming in for failed PCMs in the BA series Daily at one stage at its peak there had been 8340 people around Australia in 24 hours with BA PCM Failure Extensive Research and Automotive Experts have found the following. - so after doing tons of research again and speaking with Haltech, and Hootons harnesess which they done whats needed for the whole permanent fix on the Mighty Car Mods XR8 Series videos, so I found with the BA ECUs they actually used Lead Free solder, as to be more environmentally friendly which is why they ended up failing XR6T and XR8 Fail quicker because the engine bay temps are way higher but ALL BA PCM/ECU'S WILL ALWAYS FAIL ITS NOT IF ITS WHEN SADLY as it's 110% unavoidable but you can stretch the life of it for like 12 months by paying 2k to repair but even then it could break the next day because these BA ECUS are all bad and being 20 years old they are all moments away from failing the same way if you hit a pothole speed bump anything ready since all the BA ECUs are made the same way and there is no permanent fix its only all temporary only permanent solution is haltec which is all up 5 to 6 grand I was looking online just before to see if it was possible to reflow the joints with lead solder so that even the repaired ecus that you send to get repaired can be permanently fixed but it's basically impossible, so when you send you're pcm ecu to be repaired they have to use the lead free solder on the repaired ecu, which after asking a few people on the xr8 page and xr6T pages aswell they also confirmed they had to end up getting a whole stand alone haltech ecu setup which cost around 6k with all the adapter harneses and so on for the XR8 models and around 5 5500 for 6 cylinder models with the BTR 4 speed and manual versions which is a crazy price So when it went over that bump that would of caused that lead solder to end up cracking or snapping apart when was why when I poured boiling water over the ecu it was able to start up untill it cooled down and then wouldn't be connected to the solder and shut off So it would of happend any time any day anywhere and just driving to the shop then parking getting shopping you can come out goto start you're BA and it'll have cracked or snapped and won't work anymore if it does it'll have misfires or basically limp mode very sluggish and just absolutely terrible to drive which you can't avoid and eventually it'll snap or crack more and then it'll simply not start the car anymore and you're choice is either keep repairs them for 2-3k with prices rising weekly or go the haltech route 5-6k but beware if going haltech you're car is now illegal to be on the road and will be impounded instantly which is a real shame sadly but it's the same laws in all of Australia so basically the days of the BA FALCON are coming to a close and soon everyone will just have a garden ordiment to look at and remember all the memories it's sad but it's unfortunately how it is with the BA falcons, everything was fixed in the BF FG Models and this PCM issue is non exisistant in the BF FG Models but for BA sadly there time has come to a end. - Raining Pistons

I'm dealing with an issue on my 2003 BA turbo manual where the fuel pump relay is not getting a trigger signal from the PCM. The car is tuned with an SCT flash tuner, but this was done years ago, this issue is only recent. The fuel pump does not get a signal from the PCM to prime or run. Sometimes disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reset will fix it, sometimes it won't, but eventually it stops working and won't work again until reset. The fuel pump and all its wiring after the fuse box is fine, the car runs without issue if I bridge out the fuel pump relay with a jumper wire. I have swapped and tested multiple relays and changed the inertia switch, didn't fix it. The wires between the PCM and the fuel pump relay are fine (<1ohm), and all the PCM pins and connectors look fine, so I'm convinced the PCM isn't opening the ground signal to open the fuel pump relay (it does have 12v on the coil side). When it happens it throws code P0230 fuel pump relay primary circuit malfinction. Has anyone encountered this before and has any idea where to look next? Is my PCM dead? Any advice is appreciated, thanks

HI, I have a question which noone including google is not able to answer. Torque Management or Torque reduction. Is it active in the pcm on a 02 ba running a BTR trans. If so, how does it measure torque output?

I purchased an 03 BA XR6 project that has been sitting in a shed. When I fitted a new battery to it to try and start it, it didn't crank. Code is showing up on the stereo and the immobiliser hand is on the dash also. I cant hear the starter relay click either. Can the PCm and BEM lose connection/programming after sitting with a dead battery for a while? If so I guess a trip to the Ford dealer is the only way to get it working again? Thanks for any help.

Hi Guys, As the title states I'm hoping someone on here can answer a few questions about the conversion I'm about to undertake on my BF wagon. I've already purchased a wrecked BF turbo 6speed manual ute from the auctions to donate engine, diff and other bits and pieces into the goon, note I still want to retain the btr not the manual tranny. The main problem I've got is what PCM can I use in the goon? I talked to the tuner I'll be taking it to after the conversion is finished and he told me to use the turbo computer as it obviously has the ability to control the wastegate, and I also noticed 2 relays in the fusebox for controlling thermo's rather than the single relay in the goon. I've emailed someone regarding flashing the ute pcm to hopefully control the btr but apparently can't be done. So I asked if I could use the PCM out of a 6speed auto, which apparently the answer is no as well. Which leads me to thinking I have to use the PCM out of a BA, but from what I understand the BA only uses 1 knock sensor instead of 2 in the BF (possibly other features different as well) So am I better to use the BA PCM, or use the current NA PCM in the goon with aftermarket boost control or something else? If the BA PCM is the way to go will it be able to be succesfully coded to the bf bcm/icc? Hope this all makes sense, just want to get this all sorted before I start pulling the goon apart as its my work car. TIA, Dean

Hello all, After a lot of researching and testing for the problems of my car going into limp mode it has been found that the ECU is cooked.. I have a 2003 BA XR6T 4 SPD AUTO and I am trying to replace the ECU. It apparently is the early ECU's which is a ABU214.. Can anyone help me/give me advice where I can find a second hand ECU that will suit my car, or any other options that are available to me? Thanks in advance! Also forgot to add I have contacted Injectronics and Logicar, and they both are unable to help.. The ECU is beyond repair, my only option is to replace it.. And NO ONE has any of the ones im after!