Mate you’re 100% out a tooth on the bottom sprocket
timing cover off and go for it !
Keif … you’re wrong as it has a Keyway which I’ve seen the dowel pin missing or slipping/bent before
Everything has a “Home” and a mark or pin locator, you can’t actually stuff it up so when it doesn’t line up it’s guaranteed too be out
Because it’s like $1000 for a prepared tested block to know you’re starting correctly…. Bit of a no brainer even for a $8000 slap together base build 🤔
If the foundation isn’t right it’ll crack sooner than later which a few have found out the hard way lately as these second hand blocks get used more than once
It’s a wear process, they aren’t made that way.. They all start life the same but wear is inevitable and Atomic bin 8 out of 10 blocks due to undersize
This block just came from Atomic for us to prepare and new build on and as you can see the numbers are high and obviously supplied for sale after sonic testing for minimum thickness.
Do it once, Do it right
Does the noice increase in rhythm with RPM ?
Is the noise there when cold ?
Is the noise louder or quieter when hot
Is the noise always there or does it seem like it might go away for a revolution or two then come back ?
Ex mechanic says it all….
Look I deal with Plazmaman 4-6 times a month easy and just like everything in life if my phone rang x100 times a day I would get a bit “HoHumm” about it too… Get with the times, drop them an Email. I get reply’s within the hour but admittedly I’m not asking them questions around issues that are prior spelt out in instruction manuals…
Supplied and fitted a full Stage 1 intercooler kit to a FG mk2 G6ET two weeks ago and it couldn’t of fit better if they tried. Again any kit is not really aimed at the “Average Joe” to install them, they’re industry suppliers but I do understand everyone has the chance to have a crack at it. Just don’t get Pissy if you can’t work it out hey as if I can put them in without issues then so could anybody.
Stage 2/3/4 Yeh they’re a bit different to what the instructions say but again if you’re familiar with the falcon chassis/bumper you’ll know what to do first time around but again I understand people struggling with the higher spec stages but stage 1 700hp bolt in kit is as easy as they come.
And yerrrr Mechanics have the most trouble out of anyone haha 😂
Nah mate, bolt it back together and carry on with that little piece of guide missing imho.
Yeh she’s had a rough service life but just accept it for what it is, don’t try and use additives to clean it up either just sharpen up the remaining service schedules
In your first picture you’ve got the orange link and a yellow, these belong at the bottom when it’s fully aligned
You need to see the two Yellow timing chain links line up with the top cam sprocket dimples
full rotation is x37 cranks to eventually line up ( from one past all the way too full line up )
it looks like this when done correctly, take note of the lower balancer position against the timing chain cover locator mark
P.S your little broken bit of the guide is bugger all wrong with it mate…. Seen heaps like this and they’re fine. Properly broken timing chain guides are like proper fhucked in regards to just the metal backing piece left
Don’t replace the FG turbo actuator with anything except for a Genuine new standard actuator when the following apply
Stock FG GT3576
Don't want to have to work out correct preloads
Don’t want to have to have the tune checked/put on Dyno
The FG standard turbo and actuator can be replaced in 30 minutes from under the car when you have a hoist and the car is cold.
What I will say is the standard FG actuator is bloody good and rarely fail so if you’re seeing reasonably high boost the actuator is probably okay
My response is the same …. Over-boost settings are too low
Boost error is too big
Both can be rectified within the tune…
Over boosting in higher gears is common due to load being maintained for longer so the effects of poor waste gate design ( or lack of it ) becomes “More” apparent and this is why tuning in 4th gear is the ideal set point for not only 1:1 ratio but to use the Dyno for exactly what it was designed for and hold the vehicle at an exact rate of acceleration vs RPM to log/tune/set the correct parameters within the tune so the above doesn’t happen
You cant install a full aftermarket exhaust without a custom tune to suit !!
it’s over boosting and cutting boost intentionally, you can’t get around this now unless you put it back to standard exhaust.
This isn’t a typical vehicle that you can just bang on an exhaust and go flog it down the road a feel the gains
You're about to spend some money to rectify this situation correctly!