eff xr6t

No mate it wont work. You need the matching turbo bellhousing to make it work. Your other option is to get one of the modified 280mm clutch pressure plates and flywheels from mal wood, direct clutch, npc as they have been machined down to fit in the Na fg/ba/bf size bellhousing.

They just took the bell housing size as it didnt need the larger size to hold the stock power. You can still fit the same size 11inch clutch in a ba/bf bellhousing it just needs to be machined down on the cover which is what mal wood option 3 and direct clutch do with them. The Fg turbo bell housing was made to take the 11inch cover unmodified and has a larger ring gear with different starter position.

Yeh mate

You just need to buy a clutch to suit a ba/bf turbo when using a n/a bellhousing.

Pretty sure nitto changed to cp because getting pistons from JE was unreliable. Something to note with the JE pistons is they run a thinner top ring which means when you do a re ring and bearing freshen up in future they are harder to source and you will need to get them through JE in the US. Using a cp piston you can get rings straight from total seal or hastings easily as the ring size is more common.

Yeh you should be sweet then they will be plenty good enough for that. The set I know that broke was 1170rwhp through a powerglide 1300rwhp manual so think you have a good safety margin.

What made you go with the howards rods? Ive got a set in my built sohc bit worried about breaking them when I turn it up past 1100hp after a mate has broken one. You got any plans for a bigger then the g35-900 in future?

That would just be because they are junk and for the same or little more price there is twice as good available.

Yes it will work. Best to start will be weld the diff or put a spool in it. The low power means an lsd is more likely to single spin. If you going to be drifting it long term then remove as much interior for less weight. Other then that its about being aggressive on the wheel and maintaining momentum. A low power car to start will teach you to drive a car not just steer the power.

Twin -8 is over the top. Single -8 split to -6 and then -8 return. For info speedflow weld on an fittings match falcon fuel rail diameter perfectly. Be sure to remove all solder and zinc if your gonna tig it as any little bit will f@ck it from experience.

Dont undo the rod bolts dont even check the bearings. You will do more damage undoing and retorquing the torque to yeild rod bolts then looking at the bearings that will be fine anyway. On the subject of valve springs I tested a bunch on my spring tester the results didnt suprise me much. 06/06 bf turbo/typhoon springs 75lb on the seat. Fg N/a 75lb on the seat. Second hand $20 atomic set I got of some dude that replaced them 105lb on the seat.

Looks like that one broke around the same spot as mine. All though mine was an earlier sohc the cranks are still essentially the same and well under 1000hp. It's probably just luck of the draw if it will last or not. Mine was never crack tested as it was a stock bottom end so who knows if that was the cause.

What springs have you got in the wastegate? I would personally keep the 4 port solenoid as changing to a 3 port is a downgrade. I run a 4 port and can get perfect control from my 15 psi spring pressure to what ever I could want without a problem.

Have you currently got it running in open loop for tune testing?

Do a log with fuel source tq source and all the normal rpm cam angle. My guess is you will see the fuel source change to cylinder cut whilst it is running like that

If you are stuck with 98 find either a late bf turbo motor or a fg turbo motor. You cant put xr6 turbo pistons on gas rods so just swapping pistons wont work. Yes a gas motor will work on 98 but you'll be limited on boost by the high compression.

Bleed the clutch again. If the pedal doesn't come all the way back when you take your foot off either the pressure plate is broken which would make alot of noise or there is air in the line. Being is doesn't make noise there will be air in the line.

That's abit different being a factory turbo there could be a possibility that it got typhoon rods. I've seen the way toads uses that car even with toads top quality tuning I think if it had skinny rods they would have definetly fallen out by now haha. There's only so much stress they can take.

If you've gone to all the effort of buying a barra and importing it would probably be wise not to test the stock rods they will fail at 400hp and then you have wasted alot of time importing an engine just to scatter it on the floor...

I've ran a GM slave cylinder on my ford t56 for years it fits the same and the GM bleeder works much better then the ford one. They also don't break like a plastic one. Everyone will tell you that you need to buy the mal wood billet slave which is a just a classic mal wood cash grab waste of money.

If your handy with the tools and have welders grinders and a decent amount if workshop tools it's not a big job for cheap but if you have to pay anyone for any work being fab,wiring, tuning well it will end up costly. Run down on what's required to make it fit in the car. You'll need a ba/bf sump if you end up going with a fg engine. Need to either cut the front of the sump to clear the k frame or cut and box the k frame to clear the sump. You'll have to drill out the holes in the engine mounts to drop the engine ~10mm and also cut the bonnet brace above the rocker cover so the bonnet will close. Gearbox if you go t56/tr6060 you'll need custom gearbox crossmember plus cut out the shifter hole 100mm further back which also makes the shifter come out right below the window switches so you'll have to make a custom dogleg shifter to navigate around the switches and sit out the El shifter hole. Will need to get a falcon clutch pedal and pull the EL pedal box out and mount the Barra hydraulic pedal on the side. You can get away with using the standard ford clutch fluid line with abit of bending and drill a hole in the firewall for routing. Also need a custom tailshaft obviously. Wiring for the conversion isn't hard if you want to keep the ba dash cluster and modify it to fit in the EL dash. If you want to keep the El dash well then you will have to do a lot more wiring as you need both ecus in the car plus the EL water temp, oil pressure sensors. There's plenty of write ups around of what you need to do to make the Barra ecu standalone wiring wise plus how to disable PATS to make it run. That's a basic run down of what's needed but you'll also need to add a speed pickup (shiftkits do a good one that can mount to the standard borgwarner diff) If you have all the tools to do it yourself it could be done for the cost of finding and engine and box plus ~3k but if you need to pay someone to make it all happen I doubt you'll see any change from 10k+

Cheers mate I tried to pm but your inbox must be full

Howdy gang after some help I'm looking for bf factory wiring diagrams. I already have ba diagrams but from what I can find the pedal wiring doesnt quite match up and I think this is the cause of my throttle issues on my conversion. If anyone has a copy can you please hit me up via pm 👍 Im also looking for advice on what I need to change tune wise to disable the vct as im running the ecu on a SOHC any advice would be appreciated.

Mate you need to look in the real world where you make 2hp per cubic inch for a stout n/a motor. The stroke isn't too big to rev it hard there is plenty of v8's with a 4 inch crank turning 7500+rpm. Too many people think Barra's are something special they really aren't there still 60's tech with a reasonable head from the factory, with the same principles of any other motor of course it's achievable. What people in the Barra world consider a big cam with 240*@050 everyone else considers a basic street spec cam.

Well and truly achievable when speedway guys have been make 230 odd rwkw with an old 250 crossflow for years now. Should be no reason why you couldn't make 300+rwkw n/a with the right head, cam, comp and intake exhaust