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Looks like she's a pretty tidy example.. nice mate! I'll be following your path soon when I get my ass into gear and start it. Built AU single cam into my 68 xt fairmont. What engine mounts did you go with?

Pics of barra into the xr?

It's funny watching monkeys argue on there [emoji23] widebands post usually come with there fair share of people saying widebands don't work and that you should only read spark plugs hahaha. Guess I should do a calibration then it's been about 18months haha

Think I've free air calibrated mine three times in the time I've had it. And it was only because I forgot to plug the sensor back in after putting the dump pipe back in the car and I turned the key before realising... should probably do it again and see if it's strayed Mention the innovate widebands on Guild of EFI group and watch sh*t fly about them they are well hated on there haha

The innovate controls are well known for causing sensor issues my mates car has killed 2 sensors in 2 years with only being driven ~1000km I thought it was because 2step launch control and being so close to the turbo outlet that it was the reason for the failures but we swapped to a haltech WB controller and has had the same sensor for years now even with heaps of short run times moving it in and out of the shed on e85 so heaps of moisture in the exhaust. Then there's my car had the same innovate mtx-l for 4years on e85 huge amounts of 2step use and plenty of time been parked on the limiter drifting aswell as daily street driving and the original sensor hasn't had an issue. People have had issue with them when on methanol burning out the heater with all the moisture getting into it but even when I ran it on meth it never died. I must have one of the lucky ones haha. It did go to an error fault a couple of months ago which I thought it's days were over finally but got back in the car an hour later and error was gone and working mint again. If I was buying again I don't think I would go another innovate though.

What's the old valve springs ozy?

I know the gas cams are different in the early ba gas motors wonder if they ran the same cams into fg e gas. The fg n/a and fg turbo cams being the same number came up in bombers thread I think when he had the fg cam issues.

People want $500-1000 for a ba egas from what I've seen. I got one for free so I could get a set of high comp Pistons to build a high comp methanol SOHC to test.

You don't need to use the fg ecu to control the btr. If you are happy to run a manualised c4 then just use the btr and run it manualised and take advantage of being able use overdrive for the highway. C4 behind turbo 4l are sh*t anyway need to spend huge money to make it reliable and it'll still be a time bomb. For the motor of it's staying on e85 all the time just get a wrecker n/a motor and put valve springs in it. The cams are said to be the same part number from Ford for turbo and n/a so they will be fine. Changing the exhaust valves isn't worth it they will only be a problem if the tuner has some how got no idea how to tune you'll melt a hole through the piston before a valve. I've pulled quite a few e gas motors apart and I wouldn't buy one at all. They are not IMO worth the money everyone wants for them. IMO fg n/a motor with a set of valve springs only for 400kw. Run the btr behind it manualised and you will have a mid to low 10sec car

Would still require a solid state relay for running the pump? Unless the PCM has a decent output capable of the current draw?

Yep that's what I thought but there also the other style returnless that still runs a pump at full noise but has the reg straght after the pump and a single line feeds the rail works well to a point but needs a large fuel line to the rail to keep fuel supply happy. Have seen the returnless used with decent power ~530rwkw had twin 044 from surge in boot fed into a single -8 then T off the -8 straight after pump into reg and return to surge and the single -8 runs up to the fuel rail stops all the fuel in the return from getting the engine bay heat. Worked well to a point until about the 530+kw mark when the afr would start to fluctuate he got scared that the system was at its limit and the rail was running out of fuel so changed to a normal return setup and issue was resolved. I'd say the speed control returnless setup would suffer the same way but would work well for the average person that isn't after rudiculous power levels.

Is this talking about returnless with the reg right near the pump and a single feed line to the rail or a speed control pump at the tank single line feeding rail with the speed control doing most of the pressure regulation?

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Arcan-Low-Profile-Hydraulic-Aluminum-Race-Car-Trolley-Jack-1-8T-1800KG-Dual-PumP/1140692896 One of these super light double pump so jacks up super quick and cheap. Had one for 4 years best jack I've used for cars.

Was the trans tune modified? Rpm change without speed change is worrying as the convertor should stay locked at light load.

Couldn't of had his foot flat on the throttle when the run started. Would explain the boost and power plot huge climb at 110kmh.

Link G4+ Definitely wasn't enjoying it but still enough for a slow shifting 1.60 60ft and 10.90 pass haha

Joe has done quite a few but like Jet said will break sh*t. Most off the shelf twin plate solid centre ceramic clutchs will not put up with it and clutch builders reccomend running sintered iron plates if you want to use a 2 step. This is a log from my last run at the drags a couple of months ago twin ceramic discs with 2900lb of clamp and was struggling. Launch set at 3800rpm and leaves with about 12psi and slips hard till it gets some super hot and grabs hold. Have a another set of sintered iron plates, clutch cover and floaters now and will setup a new clutch line with a hydraulic slow release bleed. Is good fun for powerskids though roll along at 40kmh in 4th clutch it bang bang bang let it rip instant smoke show.

Ross Pistons rattle with a tight clearance most builders make turbo motors loose as he says to prevent the PTB issues with high temp high boost he didn't even do the machine work simple bolted together a motor that was allready machined don't see how it's his issue that it rattles when he even said it would rattle...

Went to use a sonic on a built AU motor recently and bolt holes didn't line up properly without flexing main studs I would send them the stock girdle to ensure holes end up in the right spot if buying one. Atomic one turned up looking like a 4 year old had used the die grinder to de burr the holes with most bolt down surfaces having burr marks all over them. Want something that fits properly without worrying I would ring Jason at Tunnel Vision turbo charging. Can't comment on the others as this is all I've used other then the current one that we had laser cut from a stock girdle and then drilled the holes ourselves.

Yella terra because don't like paying the atomic tax

Waste of time changing housings IMO. Recently changed my mates car from 6266 .84 t4 divided put a 67mm front wheel on it and a 1.15 rear in t4 divided thought it would loose 500rpm of response but from what I can tell in testing has little to no change at all. Wasn't the best car for testing the change as we put a lower comp built motor in it and a very large ported head on at the same time but even then it has less comp bigger turbo on both compressor and exhaust thought it would have to loose response but from what I've tested max 1-200rpm different to previous. These are big cube 6cyl motors choking them with small housings doesn't help.

Click on the torque management tab at the top. ATM your on the general for the engine.

I retuned back to 98 because WA (wait awhile) has the sh*test e85 distribution around the suburbs. Driving 200km round trip to get fuel is bullsh*t and I've given up on it. 98 for the street Methanol for the track leave the e85 for you NOR folk.

It will self calculate with the haltech from rpm and wheel speed and works extremely well have set it up on a mates car. Makes boost by gear possible which is a big advantage for turbo manual car. The S1 also have the rotary option switch that will output a signal for each gear they sell it with the led display but it will work on a input to the haltech aswell.

Have played with one on a Ls t56 in my mates 300zx circuit car is pretty good clicks through the gears nicely. He has the full flat shift setup and gear indicator haven't got the flat shift setup yet but being still a syncro box it will allways be limited by them for the shift time.