barnz

Do you even heat shield bro

Yes to all of the above except for shaft play, none at operating temp Tiny amount when cool

66cc ba/bf, 65cc fg Some great info on the atomic site. http://www.atomicperformanceproducts.com/cylinder_heads.html

Nah I took those out when I thought I had a diff bush issue..

This noise is getting louder, still hits 11psi sometimes which is about right for an fg so no leaks...got me stumped but it seemed to start after I put the earls oil line in. Which I had dismissed as a cause but I dunno....to much oil pressure at the turbo possibly? Obviously if this was an issue with this kit it would be widely known. Which is exactly why I dismissed it as a cause. So far ive been unsuccessful in getting any audio, just lots of wind as its most noticeable under load, like going up a hill at say 1/4 throttle around 2500rpm.

Looks like the vac line for bov and other one looks like a check valve so maybe for a pcv setup

Pics of 10sec single pegger time slip or didn't happen

Hi torque is closest to you they are on the coast, otherwise elite automotive at archifield would be the go. RDP are also good(these days...) but probably a bit far at Redcliffe. I would suggest doing some research on the forums so you properly understand what you need, why you need it, and why not to get generic tunes. Avoid buying an xcal with preloaded tunes from BPR or intune on eBay. Your tuner will sort a xcal out for you and load it with tunes after they have custom dyno tuned your car. Id say expect to pay around 4k for the mods your after.

Well that sucks balls, I expect you've already explored your options, at least get the 16 inch alloys off the fg xr6 1 tonne. They are heaps less gay, those ones you have remind me of my egas ba RTV days diff lockin in multi story carparks

Gunna I've noticed that the fg 1tonne utes have a 17in wheel option from the factory. Saw one today and thought of your tyre dilemma. I've not looked into any further but this could possibly be an option for you?

I think it needs to be factory ordered to be compliant because they remove the airbag. Or so I was told. Have the same dilemma with the work ute.

Just put braided lines on :-( will do thanks man.

Haha thanks man, yeah I know they arent STD, just wondering why they didnt make them STD bf/fg instead of the thinner POS they put on. Its a rhetorical question...they did what they did. So one last question, can I just source a set from a BA and use the BA caliper bracket which I understand puts the caliper in a forward location rather than the fg's rear. First thing that comes to mind is brake lines. Or can I get a custom bracket from RBS to suit?

Like an r35, they are about the same price as a falcon I hear. I have the buyers remorse...

You can get obd guages on the icc with a phone, elm, video input to icc. Its just that its 8000% easier to stick your phuckin phone on the windscreen.

So would you retain the fg caliper bracket? Which calipers, ba premium? Are they better than fg calipers? If so why the fark did they change them? And do you mean I wont warp the 32's? Is this the upgrade geegee6 just did? Sorry for all the questions Aaron Haha.

Holy farkin power pole. Really clean ute with low k's mate. Shame it was a lemon. Have you seen the throttle body relocation kit for the b series? Cleans the bay up and makes piping alot simpler(seems like it would anyway) URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191189294880&alt=web

Can you fit the 325mm rotor to an FG? The extra 3mm doesn't seem like an issue but would the extra thickness require different calipers to prevent rubbing? I seem to be able to warp any rotors, OE, RDA and t2's(havent tried t3's). They can be fine for 10 000ks, work them hard once(I mean hard) and they are toast. Just cant take the heat as it would seem.

You are a bit crazy gunna but its ok its people like you that enrich the rest of us with your knowledge and experience as we live vicariously through your build. 99% of us would just sell and buy again, and whilst that's logical and usually the wiser financial decision(and mental!) It's not as interesting or as fun is it. Where's your build thread with lots of pics and chit by the way?

He didn't ask how much it cost and what is easier. But everybody is right lol. For what its worth you need turbo pcm, loom, inlet and exhaust manifolds,turbo (obviously), turbo exhaust, injectors, pretty sure cams are different and im not sure about the throttle body. Then there's the fact you will still have a N/A bottom end and if you have a ZF im pretty sure the N/A model is weaker. I know ford had to bulk buy the last of the hi torque 6HP's for the FH as they are discontinued and the 6speed will now be made in china. That's why its not really worth it, unless your a sucker for pain and seriously bored... Forgot to mention things like cooler, piping, boost solenoid..there is probably more..

Anybody else play the games? I've won a championship on pro difficulty on f1 2012. Got a pretty sweet setup on pc with a logitech g27. Just got f1 2013, cant wait and im already hanging out for the 2014 version.

Ive been on the fence about this since I first heard "it cant be done". It wouldn't surprise me if the icc plugs/pinouts are different but surely that's it. I can't see ford spending x amount of dollars engineering entirely new pcm,bcm and whatever else because of a touch screen and different icc firmware. Even if the Icc is 100% different it would have been cheaper to make it work with what they had.

Your more likely to get genuine ones from eBay....how is it alot of new players get drawn to pingtune

Yeah that would be the 3.5l v6 eco boost which is 270kw and 590nm twin turbo. Tis no slouch. Eco boost mustang might be fun.Pretty funny that Americans consider that an economical solution to v8's. Seems pretty high performance to me.

Can't you just get it engineered for the same load rating as the style side or is it vital you have the 1 tonne rating?