BRK

A road car that runs 8's............... that says it all.

Very well done - Another rocket on tyres with the Blue Oval on the badge.

Plus one for a (possible) fan issue. Have a mate who worked as a mechanic for a cab company. They had a few fan issues in the B series - blades not centred or just out of balance. Easy to test. Get the car up to operating temp and simply observe. Or take the fan unit out of the car and test. If you remove the unit. make sure you securely support it - these things generate a fair bit of start up torque. As a basic, make sure the alternator mount bolts are tight.

Well, you are not mucking around with this, that is for sure. It will be an interesting swap over the usual 289 - 347 Windsor that goes into these. I would be idley curious as to the combined weight of the windsor ( with the usual alloy head upgrades etc ) and its trusty companion, the c4, versus the barra 6 and the ZF. Thinking aloud, power and torque wise the Barra will be ahead. The modified Windsor is no slouch but it might have to lower its colours in this contest. Hope it goes smoothly for you.

Plus one for the 1000cc iD's over the 60lb units.. Amazing how a thing that can potentially deliver that amount of fuel can deliver such great idle (IMO better than factory) and overall throttle response. Get the right part and they are a routine install for a good shop. Bux wise - shopping time. Americans ....... feet/inches/yards... lbs..... fluid ounces / quarts/ gallons ( not even an imperial gallon ) ........ bit arcane...?

Have a look at the nizpro site - On the exhaust side of things, they go a fair way with power increases without any changes, then a bit further with just a cat change.

The custom system - are they building their own mufflers? Usually very expensive if they are. I guess you know, as a general principle, managing drone in big single pipe systems is harder to achieve than with a comparatively smaller twin system and very hard with an automatic. Also, the stock dump pipe and cat really drop the sound in these cars. So, if you go for a catback, then later do the rest, expect a significant change in noise. A hard one. I have a twin 63 Manta in my BF with a cat change and stock dump and it is pretty good overall. However, hills and loads can induce occasional drone. Butler-built is a muffler shop here (WA). He does a lot of custom work and his view on the ford T6 is that you need really good mufflers to reduce drone. He builds the mufflers and systems himself ( and get your wallet out) however, they do work. Straight through design, they are heavily packed with fibre. The rest he doesnt talk about - trade secrets. Bux wise - x force with the larger mufflers might be the go. Hard choice here - drone in cars is tedious.

I had something similar in the hydraulic system in a power steer unit in a VP commodore. The unit was very effective - plenty of metal in the filter after a few years.

Think about this............ look throught the build threads and see what is being used and what failed and what did not. Then onto the threads on the site sponsors - the workshops that do it each day. It takes about an hour and a half of time well spent to work out what does work, fits properly, made out of good materials and lasts - - and what does not. You have an FG. Nice factory exhaust on that car. So, a simple bolt in/weld in cat change, intercooler upgrade ( choose wisely) and a good tune ( choose even more wisely) gets you pretty close to 300rwkw wthout the dump change. How good is that product. No real idea actually..... not a lot of information supplied on the forum as far as I can tell.

I pulled the stock filter fitting off my BF at about 50K and replaced it with a new factory stocker. The old one had miniscule amounts of debris in it and got cleaned ready for the next changeover. The braided kits look the goods and heaps of the forum people use them. IMO, quality oil and regular changes is step one. Getting these filter fittings things out of the block is P** easy and if they are clean........ leave it alone. I have nothing other than a gut feel but I am not a fan of removing the micro filter from the fitting.

You would need some r and d to test this. When you think about it, some ( a lot) of the cars on this forum are at the 450+KW at the engine mark. There are very few factory cars making that sort of power and passing drive-by noise requirements and customer-acceptable drone/cabin boom levels. You can certainly get close to stock noise and a lot more power but the bucks required to build and test the mufflers you would need is beyond most people's ability. Once you get into this and start to cut open some of the late model factory mufflers to see how they do it, you soon know just what lengths they go to in order to get this stuff to work. EG, some ( BMW) use tapered, angled and perforated reducer cones inside the flow paths within the mufflers to deflect gas sideways and create noise buffers within expansion chambers within the mufflers. The factory N/A falcon 6 mufflers are a maze of pipes and chambers - the ford 6 is a noisy thing it seems. The turbo version is not and the exhaust dynamics change a lot with the snail in the way - and the reasonning ( not myth and B/S) in that is not something I fully understand. Muffler/resonator size is a part of the noise reduction formula but position in the system along with dump pipe size and design is another etc. Most of the aftermarket seems to have this sorted out and we get good flow and exhaust note that suits most of us. When you look at the FG F6 system which is actually quite small, and the power it supports once you fiddle with the boost, air box, and "adjust" the cat converter, the results are actuallty good. To get more power with less noise......... maybe a bigger job. An F6 makes about 310 at the engine. FG F6 owners help me here but IMO you can go pretty close to 340+??? with just a cat change, air box mod, tune and stuff all difference in noise. After that - well......... have a look at the build ups on the forum.

What did Monsta Torque say? They have a lot of experience with these cars. How hard do you want this car to go??? IMO go for option 2. Bigger I/C is a good move for more consistent power.

I think the length of the barra will be (one of) your biggest issues. If you get the setback right there will be naff all space on the firewall. The 6 in those early bimmers is pretty close to the bonnet in some places as well. Then gearbox.... c4 or c10 I assume??? Have you thort about a windsor v8? the 289/302 versions are tiny things and on a jug ( carby) they can be made to produce fair power. Weight disappears when you get rid of some of the cast iron stuff on them. Sump wise they are pretty versatile because of the small crank counter weights so you can mess around with the postion of the shallow and deeper part of the pan and oil pick up. They can be shoved well back - dizzy in the front etc. C4's work well with these. Your costings need major revisions - there are too many things omitted here - suspension / radiator / colling and so forth. Nice idea though - fond memories of a carby 3.3L that a mate had. Pity about the cracked head and endless gearbox issues and quickly sagged rear springs..

I cannot wait for the Great Wall Cherry Ta Ta hybrid. It will either be a cake you buy from Brumbies...( if that lasts??) OR a car with a two stroke Victa with 9 billion AA batteries gaffer taped together in the back seat. Passengers on the roof or in a trailer . . . . Someone I know is in the market for a new car so I had a real good look at some of the offerings on the small / medium car market recently... hardly inspiring. I thought I was in Woolworths / Coles car yard - they just all felt the same. I wondered what the hell I would buy if I was buying right now and excluded a large sedan with some road performance. V6 in Honda, Nissan or Toyota.... ??? My mate said I was "an old and fussy A/hole." Yeah, probably. The Subaru WRX was the only thing that lit me up - had the CVT transmission - but the back seat leg room was so-so and they weigh around 1500Kg which kinda takes the edge off the grunt but made for a good ride. Well made though - about 40K or so. Anyway, the loss of locally made big RWD platforms is all a done deal and we are stuck with it. We wait and see what we get.

FG Manual . . Leather.... and black.... good one IMO. And . . . . . I wish . . .

The stock FG turbo will be the limiter in this case - plenty of info on this on the forum and in the "300RWKW club" topic area. IMO, use quality 1000cc injectors. Sounds ridiculous, 1 Litre Injectors - - but I am impressed with mine in terms of all over driveability and general idle quality. If you stay out of it, the cars return good fuel economy as well. Finally, 1000's give you the opportunity to go a long way mods wise. The better tuners around oz seem to me to have these injectors worked out nicely. Decide on a power figure and then work back from there in terms of mods. As one suggestion, I also encourage you to read the pitlane build up on the FG. Plenty of good information there. Dunno about 11's - others will have a more informed view - but if the car is in good nick and you do really get 320RWKW out of it and if the car is an auto ...... maybe yes.

Another WA member.Welcome to the forum. BTW - like the colour and the look of the FG..... and a manual !!

Do the pump/tune/cat and injectors in one hit. You might needf the second air intake - heaps of them second hand in the world They whole pump / cradle set up is a bolt in and is so cheap these days. Injectors - plenty in the for sale area of the forum and if 270rwkw is all you want then the bosch green tops at 440cc do it nicely. (hey! I got a set!!!) Venom used to do a bolt in cat - but shop hard and maybe you can find an exhaust shop to do it for <450. If you really are bux down . . . .a tune alone is pretty good value actually - but then who stops at the pub for "just one drink." BTW - - - - -260 / 270 is a good street power level and bags of fun to drive without the car going mad ar*se each time you hit the go pedal. And.... the stock intercooler is already trembling and will surrender on a hot day.

Daily - a 1989 Nissan r31 skyline. The rb 30 is smooth as, the rest.... well, the aircon works, tow bar and it has a radio!!!! Got some extractors for it...( sorry could not help me self) Unknown kilometres it but "plenty" would be about right,. I get a few laffs but it can be parked anywhere and the dog goes in it to go to the beach. Funny how it is the "can we borrow the nissan" when things are desperate. Bunkys can be good - this one sort of okay, the worst costs were the power steer rack and fix aircon leak - 1400 - so that was a disappoinment. Will keep it until it puts up the flag.

It is labour intensive and not as simple as it looks - think it is 3+ hours? Go to one of the forum sponsors IMO.

Use the tools ( puller etc) and do it properly - it is an important part. If they are stuffed the rubber parts are badly cracked or start coming out. Sometimes you can see the pulley start to run out of line. I have not done on these cars yet but I assume the fans + radiator might have to come out. A good time then to change the coolant and do the drive belt as well.

Have a manta cat back - not bad note wise - no drone and no cop issues either. Other mods but exhaust wise, 300RWKW with a cat change, Manta twin 63 cat back and stock dump.

box out, clutch down, bux up.

Tim slako and his crew will do that a good job on that clutch at west racing. The 3+ is a great road and track clutch IMO and the pedal pressure is naff all.

Electric scooter - tomahawk. Go 50 all out have a 10 K range if fully charged and cheap as on ebay ATM - could likely stick it in the bike lockup. Low K commute......... cannot remember the last time it was under 25k's to get to the job.