BRK

So, I go to get a new set of rear tyres and put the rattle gun on the wheel nut and one of the nuts just falls off with half the axle stud inside. Ok, stuff happens so better get a new one. Well, hang on to your wallet. One genuine Ford Rear Hub Stud at retail = 36 bux. Got to 30 in the end. I think that is a wee bit excessive price wise.. I just hope I can get the old one out without pulling the rear hub off the car.

Do some thread mines on this. APS did a lot of early modification work on the BA Turbo when released and their site still has some of the early data. Note that they then used a unichip and we know tuning software has moved along since then.Their results at the time spoke for themselves. Kits were well made in that the parts worked and were not troublesome to fit. Their Phase three kit in a manual BA with a 5 speed and a 3.23 diff ran 307 Km/hr at Avalon airport with an advertised 390KW at the engine. Their were other pioneers at the time and things have progressed accordingly. If you want to relocate the battery within the engine bay, pay close attention to the frame they made up and the path of the I/cooler pipe work. A gel type battery can also be used - look at the Nizpro site. Or, you do the boot relocate - plenty of very helpful threads on that approach. E34 BMW 5 series sedans have batteries under the rear seat. The Ford has no space to do that unless you went to lithium batteries....... hardly worth it.

We all get caught with something. Had a 540 V8 BMW that I wanted to burn.......... (Nicasil issue in the block plus a boring list of other tedious faults.) BTW.......My missus reckons I had my odometer wound back and whoever re did my upholstery forgot to take the sag outta me ar*e end. Gotta bit of knock, ping and blow by first thing in the morning as well.

Never stuck a dial guage on the camshafts however, the workshop I use have. The BA turbo cams have less timing than the BF. They have not bothered with the FG. The VCT system in BF onwards works on both camshafts. The VCM tuning packages allow for some changes in the operation of the VCT. Minor adjustments within this system does not seem to produce marked changes in power but my observations of this are limited to a couple of minor adjustments made to the tune in my car and in the end, they were put back to stock. The only "cammed up" xr6t I have seen on the dyno was unimpressive. Had a slight lope at idle, power curve favoured the top end and road manners were ordinary. IMO, the owner would have been better off winding in an extra 2psi of boost and would have got a better result. His bux, his choice. There are others on the forum who have asked the same questions and others who have looked at ( or undertook) cam changes in-depth. IMO. for overall power and driveability in what might be called the "useable rev range" - being idle to 5800 rpm - stock FG turbo cams ( with good springs ) are the best. After that, go to the aftermarket.

Guys - hearing a strong rumour that Perth Street Car Magazine has stopped publishing. If it is true, a pity - use to feature some good local cars.

400 - not enough for a tune. And, you will have to run it on 98 all the time to take advantage of that tune. Plenty on the n/a section of the forum on this - as for cold air - hunt around for a second hand fpv type air snorkel that goes under the headlight as that will be more than enough air supply.

There you go - the whole package. Get some good brake fluid and do a fluid change as well, a few drinks, tools and a lazy saturday arvo and just enjoy the work. For under $500 ( drinks and a feed included) fit the lot and smile.

Brake pads - good info all over the forum..... However, be honest with yourself....... how fast are you going, where are you doing this and how many times? The stock brake pads are good for the occasional hard run. So, whatever brand you choose, try to equate them to what you are doing. If EBC red is one step up from the greens, then maybe look at those. If you can get the brackets etc, fit the 322's. They are ok and run a little cooler than the 298's. As for which rotor brand........ plenty of opinion on that. Have used both DBA and RDA.

Nuthin wrong with a good four. Going bacvk a few years - I reckon my s15 ( withj mods) was a great road car albeit a bit small for taller people............. well, it was a great road car before she-who-must-be-obeyed pranged it.....

On the b series they don't stay on at all.

Grab your wallet, put on the nikes and run.

There is a fair bit on the forum about cam changes. However, with nothing else, it is the usual thing - top end results with little in the midrange. I understand that HPT software does allow for some changes in the way the vct works however, adjusting that does not seem to produce any marked results.

Well done. Yáll gotta be very happy with 345 at the tyres through stock mufflers - - - - I am beeting there is no drone, cabin roar, drumming harmonics at 95 - 100km/hr, pipes banging on the diff cradle or kids in the back seat with headaches. Good luck with the next steps.

We assume the dump pipe was done. A good turbo side air box has shown gains ( see the work done by Ratter on this.) Other than maybe pushing more boost into it ( assuming the waste gate is the right size ) I reckon not much more that is really cost effective that will give you what you want. Sadly, power and dollars are a hyperbolic function........ with dollars climbing the fastest !

Reckon it is the clutch. Guessing........but 135K and weighted uphill starts...might be the springs in the driven plate.

I guess these exhausts come with a sledgehammer as part of the kit and really do supply "bang" for your buck. And - as for expansion...... Have a look at the engineeering tables on this. Must be a lot of pipe under the car.......

Useful link........... but really?? Having to bash / modify the muffler to get proper clearance on a tail shaft?

A territory ( does it sorta count??) and the BF. And....... I ain't selling.

The WTA cooler debate - interesting. As best as I can undertsand it, the whole game is aimed to have minimal restriction in the air intake system coupled with the intake air charge entering the engine at ambient temperature (or lower). If you are going to the trouble of introducing a fluid based cooling system to reduce the temperature of the aircharge, then why not work out a way of lowering the charge temperature with chilled water via a refridgerated system? Not taking the p*ss here but that would be the best outcome. Certainly a serious engineering problem given the design limitations of the car but maybe ??? possible. Or maybe........ the financial strain of xmas has wrecked what's left of my brain?

Nice list - and good sound system too. Who did the magic with the tune???

I want a new XR8............. and I don't care what colour.

Mersin, you are getting way ahead of yourself here. The advice above is all pretty good but it does come down to bux and just how fast you want to go. Think about this. At 320rwkw in a BF, Stever above has run a sub 12 and 190+ at the drags. He ran that in Race Wars in WA....... 222 Kmhr in 800M and that means speed limiter in under one kilometre. To put that into perspective: BMW M5, AMG C63, Turbo Porsche, BMW M3, Dodge Viper............ All Toast. The Turbo Ford is about controlled boost, fuel delivery, cool intake charge and enough exhaust system to match power requirements without cabin boom/drone. At 170K's. Fuel Pump and Valve Springs have gotta go. They are aged components and consummables given where you want to go power wise.. Best possible intercooler / injectors and plenty of quality choices there along with enough information on the forum about fit and results to assist us all. Stock exhaust will just about do it. Dump/cat........... do that. But the tuner.......... talk to him first.

I think as above for the brake skim. Tyres - a small place in Bibra lake / Spearwood - Classic Tyre and Battery. Have used Brakes West in Myaree but I am not familiar with their approach to the T3 rotor.

It is a fair question and the answers are spot on. Yep, it can. Ask an engineer who is involved in any sort of big time work - like ship building - and they will tell you about tightening sequences and torque. I have posted before but the guy I get my tyres from insists on the torque wrench. I won't argue with 40 years in the business.

I gotta BF with 84K on it now and reckon it will be lucky to make 100K over the next two year. ..................... oops.... sh1t........... I forgot... I am old. Reckon that the auto is likely to be your biggest issue in this plan and you could do the mods and spend maybe 2K+ then see yourself up for a lot more in the trans rebuild.