400KwXr6t

The worst thing id public see numbers 315kw vs 310kw public think bigger number beats smaller. no one looks at the torque figures. And I'm not sure why may be its from the 80's when ford went to the back foot, they don't release the figures after holden. Expensive Daewoo always release their car after with 2-10 kw more. Damn it ford just do a GT-HO 400kw plus, twin turbo v8, sell it in the 100k plus so you can licence it as luxary or wherever it falls under, export it (as well as the typhoons) and give the global market something to talk about. Voxhaul (cough holden) did it so lets get the aussies on the map instead of mustangs and get the title of fastest 4 door production car in the world back.

dont worry you just gotta wait till the american president visits and they turn off all the gps sattelites and you can go as fast as you want. Oh yeah and avoid the suv with dillan aero equip devices. (on my mod wish list) http://www.dillonaero.com/docs/DillonTacticalVehicle-1.wmv (hope the link works)

hmm a mod that another auto shop does, wouldnt be the same machine shop that machines the servo land off it so it doesn't have a seal anymore, so it shifts harder? just wondering cos that's what my blown box had in it. The rebuild box has a, dare I say it, Late model camira valve body in it. and ssangyo musso bands. so far so good, shifts smoother now compared to machined servo, but still chirps gear changes so its firm. 500kw warrenty, that's a massive figure to give a warrenty. but if you can get it sweet. I'm guessing that's flywheel Kw.

So what are the 4 speed builders strengthening now? Do they have aftermarket planetries yet? that's one of the main failures isnt it. Apart frop clutches slipping. I know I destroyed my overdrive shaft but I think that was due to a dodgy build, So far 2 years later running 300rwkw no dramas (touches every bit of wood in reach). But I think if mine goes bang again it will be a toughened C4 that I have sitting in the shed. Sux to lose a cog but reliability is a big thing. And as I've been looking for a few years now no-one has done a money/labor friendly ZF conversion.

I hope it is better this year, last years was dissapointing, Fair enough people that have cars there love super cruise, but for spectators its boring, bring back the driving events and make sure the grass events are on, Unless I missed them last year, Still it will be good to see some top quality machines around, and get some ideas for my old beast. Oh yeah how good is it going to be at 40 degrees C. Burnout cars shall be punished

Traction control is on as soon as you start the car, you have to turn it off so if you blow a fuse (not sure if there is one specifically) you should not be able to turn it off. Its a safety thing. You sure you have wired it up correctly and have not un intentionally by-passed the switch. Go from the ciggy lighter wires and its a piece of piss. just use the crimp joiners that spear through the wire and tape em up. A thought dodgy wiring causes fire/shorts and frys things so be careful. And if you have to leave things dangling tape em up so they cant touch anything and cause the terminals to arc out. (if you havent already)

That link is all good but it was done a few years ago when 6 speeds were fairly new. Surely someone has found an easy/cheaper way to do it, I'd love to trade up but love the car and dont want to lose cash and go more in debt. I wish someone would find a way to convert easily as the only thing I dont like on my T is the 4 speed. If some else has done it it would be great to hear from them, and see if they have come across any tips and tricks that would make this a viable conversion.

If it goes away at 100kph have you tries holding it in lower gears at the same rpm? Should be near 2000rpm off the top of my head. That may narrow the search down a bit, ie isolate the engine. Is the vibration the same when cruising as when idleing (if that's how you spell it)? I know mine has a erattic idle and stalls very rarely. (its hard to explain things in words/text when your describing noise/vibration etc) Just thinking if the vibration is in driveline or in wheels/suspension does your steering wheel vibrate?

I just dont know why all shops ets dont have the coin deposit trolleys. You know the ones where you have to put a gold coin in to get one, and get it back when you return the trolley. Will save on employing useless trolley boys, people will put majority of trolleys back, young kids will return trolleys for them (to get free cash) and most importantly no more possesed, expensive, paint seeking trolleys aiming for our cars.

Heres another strange but true one. Last year when I was in townsville comming home at night I saw a black ss ute pulled over. The funny thing was he had the flashing blue & reds. Reckon that's baiting people to street race. who would expect a ute. The thing that made me laugh is what they do if they arrest you? pop the tonneu cover and in you go for a nice little ride

I think the "technical" term is Pleather.

if its N/a I'd just use a castrol magnatech, you can get it for about $35 per 5L. I've run it in old school v8's which I've driven hard and never had a problem. if it were modified and had a turbo it would be a different story, like $80+ per 5L. If you dont know the barra has a 7L sump or there abouts so you need 2 oil containers. And a tip that caught me out, when you take the filter off, make sure the rubber o-ring on the filter stays on the filter. one one occasion mine stayed on the block and when I put the new filter on there were now 2 seals. Problem found after starting and checking it. A nice litre down the driveway got my attention. and that was about 20-30 secs of running at idle. After doing countless oil changes it has never happened before. just food for thought.

Here's a fix wear shoes, use heater and always do right turns. But on a serious note, is it doing it on recirc or fresh? does it stop dripping if you turn A/c off and just use the fan then start when you turn it on again. (or switch it to heat if your game) Also do you have a window open while aircon is on and it does it? could be warm air condensing on vents cause cabin temp is not normalised. Is it humid when it happens? I'm not an auto aircon guy but would be trying all these things just to give the guys a little insite when trying to fix it. Leaks are the hardest thing to fix/trace cos water could be coming from anywhere. If all else fails then you have a water making machine in your car, perfect for those hot days in traffic.

I have a 300rwkw+ car and its a baby to drive if you dont put you foot down, 80% of the time the misses drives it (make her leave traction control on and slaps to me if I turn it off when she's in the car) and she has no worries with it. They drive nice as long as you dont come hard on boost, maybe the little chirp from 1st to 2nd when giving 1/1000th throttle (have a 4 speed auto.) Big advice is save for a 6 speed Auto or manual it will save you in the long run and be much nicer. And just remember you can hoon in any car, standard commy/falcons now have 200kw. that's plenty to get in trouble with if you dont have respect/experience.

Heres a silly question. Do you have fuel in it. If its running low (below 1/4) it could cause the pickup to run dry and stall the car.

Nice write up mate! A tip for hoses, if you can fit them put 2 hose clamps on. We do this a lot on boats as leaking water is bad. And use good quality clamps not the cheap crap. Stainless is good and wont cost too much for small diameter hose. A few dollars could save an unintended drive into the wall or grass. A question how do you reckon it would be to fit with a bigger intercooler? or just easier to relocate the cooler?

Wasnt your mobile phone was it? I've had the low fuel beep go off just as im giving her a boot full and think the worst. Just a thought

Mine leaked when I did mine too, Just take the connections off and give the sealing surfaces a wipe with your finger. That makes sure you dont have any grit or dirt in between the tapers that seal. (it doesnt take much) Then as said before two spanners and give them a good nip up. :roll: Oh yeah fuel flows from rear to front. The filter, filters fuel on the pressure line to filter the fuel before it gets to the injectors etc.

Its stupid that gps(es) are considered driving aids. I f-ing hate mine. no wonder taxi drivers have them, it gives them the longest route or takes you to parking lots etc, but that's another topic. Technically you should be fined for using a gps unit, as the disclamer in the instructions say "do not operate when driving" as inputting a street name is massively distracting when driving. Another thing that S*its me is double standards why can a police officer use a phone, dont they get distracted? So whos gonna police the police? (In the words of Homer J Simpson) I dunno Coastguard?

Hmm so what if you were using your phone to check the time? isnt it the same as looking at your wrist to check your watch ? I dont agree with people using phones when driving and reading sms is even worse. just dont see how they can do you just for seeing a glow.that sucks man. :angel: like some one said coulld have been an I pod or what when I use my phone plugged onto my AUX input to use as a music player? Probably illegal aswell. just hope I dont get a "you were using a phone fine" just a changing songs on an ipod fine. Which I do at lights anyway because searching on an ipod is equally distracting. Oh yeah get done on double demerits and there goes half your licence.

Haha lucky not more damage then. Yeah maybe no prep with the locite as it may have had grease/oil/dirt in the caliper thread? I use 262 stud locker (red) so its stronger than 243(blue) especially when the bolts are fairly large you know you wont damage the threads. Oh and doing them up FT could help Ha wish I had the cash to get new calipers cos they are dirty/ Good luck with it though. Least you had one bolt in. I know of a 4x4 at work that someone didnt put in the bolts. hit the brakes and well had the caliper go round with the rotor. Pretty funny but caused some damage.

One word "Loctite" That could of been bad in many many ways. least you got lucky and found it. Are your rims ok?

had that issue on a sh*t box car. Was a fuel line leaking due to being old and brittle. I'd check all your fuel lines, and wipe the engine bay down then check to see if there are any leaks. you will have to check it after a drive remember ad the fuel will evaporate. is it with your aircon on recirc or fresh? I would check fuel lines for peace of mind, you don't want fuel or fuel vapor in a hot engine bay, specially when turbos get rather hot.

Twice half it's length. :holiday:

When I bought my car off a mate. the guy befor him had put black im guessing 3M sticker material on the wear spots. Across the bonnet on the bumper where you grab the base of the boot to open it and just behind the rear wheels about 2 inches wide on the lower skirt. Rekon its a great idea as its black on a black car and you hardly notice it. The other thing he did is put clear plastic on the headlights. the only thing is the plastic on the car bra rubbed on them when I drove townsville to perth. but you hardly notice the rub marks and doesnt affect the lights at all. Just dont put the clear plastic on fog lights as it cooks and goes black.