400KwXr6t

Heres a saying my old man used to say to me when trying to do up cars. "Your trying to run a rolls royce on push bike money" In other words you buy a performance car you pay more, for tyres, fuel, oil, filters, brakes....where do I stop?

Just wondering whats the upper limit of the 4 spd. and what people are running safely after 12 to 18 months plus? Im running 309rwkw and have been for appx 18 months now. (prays it doesnt go BANG on the misses when she drives home) I just give it the occational boot to *cough* overtake. It has been rebuilt with a siiiigh Late model camira pressure valve and ssangyong musso bands. but im extemely happy with it so far. I'm still scarred to to take it to the drags and dont do burnouts (have another play car for that) but would like another tune to get a little bit more out of her. Let us know where the upper limit lies?

I had my car stall a couple of times but it went away luckily (touch wood) in a 4sp modded auto. Go to the atomic site and they have a write up under valve springs that apparently they are the cause of erratic idle, not sure if this is related to stalling but could be if the idle drops to low? anyone else know if valve springs cause erratic idle from experience?

I'd just leave it, the batteries go when you drive them every day any way. The batteries just collapse, normally when you have no cash or you have to be somewhere 1/2 an hour ago. If you have a decent size battery (big cca or cold cranking amps) you should be A OK. there should be little draw in newer cars with the ignition off. As for flat spots on tyres? im confused. my old xy ute sits for months and I dont have flat spots. just keep em pumped up and dont lock em up lol. Oh yeah and she has enough juice in the battery to give her a few good kicks over to get the fuel into her. just my thoughts.

Yeah clay bar takes off built up grime salt residue etc, it won't fill in scratches and chips. its easy as pie to do and makes your paint feel like glass. You then polish and it looks a million bucks. You just gotta keep the lubricating spray under the clay. lots o lube is the way Oh and make sure you wash the car first it helps.

Do they have the 10% or so inaccuracy for speedo in there or do you get booked for 1km over. I know when I was in vic a mate got done for 62km in a 60 zone. whick is f/n stoopid. I know I'd sit 8-9 over if it would attract the same fine. Its just to easy to go 1 over. All that has to happen is cruse control accelerates for a rise and I recon you will exceed the limit. In saying that I dont see the need to speed as I have proven many a time in my little 4cyl sh*t box work car sitting on the limit in traffic and getting to work before or at the same time as someone speeding lane changing etc. The only time it makes up time is on long hauls like the nullabor. (which then I get done speeding ) Please correct me if I am wrong. Oh yeah and I love WA now for legal radar detectors

If its not a cheap skate question I would go the best available, just due to the chance of detonation and the scarry rebuild BANG! I know if I put my "economy" tune in it feels slower and soft, then go back to the big tune 309rwkw the car just feels like an untamed animal a complete different thing. I guess its when you tune it to a fuel its when you feel the difference from a standard car I cant answer sorry. On a side note whats with WA and the lack of 98 at shell stations? I've got like BP I have to go to between subi and rocko cos shell dont sell 98 OCTANE. (and dont like caltex)

What type of seal is it? is it a square cross sectional one or O-ring type. If an o-ring can do it get one or try a seal company, just take the seal in and say I need one like this and they should have something that matches. Its not high pressure or fuel so a standard rubber seal should do it im guessing.

yeah I understand the caliper only has limited travel but didnt think to measure the disc thickness yet. pretty sure they wont be too much different and should fit. What I want to do is put a bigger diameter disc on and keep the standard calipers. Have searched the net for brackets but couldnt seem to find any, and being busy at work hasnt allowed me to go round to brake shops to ask. just thought I'd take the easy (lazy) way and ask if anyone had done it or known of someone who had

G'day all Was looking at atomic and saw this tool then came upon this thread. now question is does anyone have the tool and if so can they pm/e-mail me a drawing/dimentions of one so I can make one. I'd rather not fork out $400 dollary doos for something I will only use once maybe twice, I have all the equipment at work to machine such a tool (I would think) lathe mill etc. And being a fitter I'm pretty sure I could make something that will do the job. As far as I can see from pics it's just a plate with holes/threads and a small mandrel. I hate paying people to do things I can do in the garage when I can do it myself with a mate, then teach another mate how to do it and save some $$ for more toys and parts

Hey all I got a pair of front typhoon discs of a mate as he upgraded. Question is where do I get an adaptor bracket to space the caliper out. Its a standard BA caliper. Would love to get 4/6 pots but finances dont allow it, and I could spend the $$ on other projects. Has anyone done this or is there something that interferes or does not line up. I have 18" rims so hope they fit under there too. Any help much appreciated as it will save me time test fitting and finding out they do or dont fit the hard way.

DO you have aftermarket rims. If so sometimes tire companies dont put in a spacer (a plastic ring) between the hub and the centre of the rim which locates the wheel. The wheel nuts dont locate the wheel perfect every time so they can run eccentric causing vibration. Don't know if this helps but was the cause on a mates Turbo with aftermarkets, and pretty sure its causing the vibration on my old XY.

Its forcast rain on sunday as well stupid weather bring back summer

Sorry bud gonna have to give you sh*t on here till I see you next week. Does look bad, the idea sounded alright but in the flesh not so. Looks loke those rappers that pull up one leg of their pants. just looks half finished

What annoys me is you park far away with no one else around, and where does the next person park? right next to you. There is always like 10 spots each side of you so I have no idea why they need to park next to you. I recon I could park in an empty car park and put money on someone parking in the spot either side of me. even if it was the furtherest space away.

In regards to putting the boot in when in 4th my advise is Don't with a capital Don't. My 4 speed went Ka-blammo last year running bout 300rwkw and the thing that went was the overdrive shaft. Which in turn spits little nasty bits of metal through everything! Result 3K worth of rebuild. and that was a modded box. And I wasnt thrashing it (which the misseds fails to believe). After crying and talking to other forum members the O/D is the weak link so if your gonna give it stick put it in PERF mode. Just my advice but that's what I do all the time, drive in Perf and kick it over when I'm off throttle on a straight and 80km or above. 12 months and no dramas (touch wood).

Hey mate Sorry to hear bout dramas in a new car Cracked welds on a new car is pretty dodgy though, and if the next weld along has cracked there may be a weakness somewhere, I'm no car expert but when it comes to things breaking 9/10 times there is a reason for it, Stresses etc. If its a new car welds shouldn't be cracking and who's to say that there isn't more going to go, also it could affect handling due to chassis twist (I know that's extreme) Dont know what your options are but you'd nearly want a new car if possible, specially since you have just bought it.

Any one know a good tuner I can go to for a good street cusrom tune, Currently have 300rwkw on a generic tune, but want to go somewhere when I drive on the way to perth. Tried getting on to Blue boost but no answer, (anyone got his workshop number) or know of a good tuner that know what they are doing, specially with modded 4 speed autos, which are not out of the way. Like tuner to be between Townsville and brizzy. Any help and feed back most welcome.

OK now I'm happy as a pig in you know what, problem fixed, and it took me 5 mins. Thanks for the link. Ill try to clear up to do, or rather what I did for mine. What the problem seems to be is the plastic switch plate (one with the wires on it) is slipping out of the housing due to spring pressure. Putting fingure pressure on it moves it in and out. the case is just sheet metal with 4 or 5 (cant remember) crimps around it which locate and hold the plastic switch in. All I did to fix was push the plastic switch in with my finger, get a smallish flat blade screwdriver (one that wont bend),and place it between the metal switch casing and the metal housing where the crimps are and gently pry the crimp tighter. Do a little bit at a time and alternate between the crimps so as to get a nice tight even fit. I only did the bottom 2 because that is where the most movement was and didn't want to pry to hard and crack any plastic or damage the housing. Hope that helps anyone else with the problem and I'll post pics if any one wants. Thanks "Toecutter" for the fix , I cants take any credit for the fix but am stoked I dont have to fork out $1000 plus for a replacement part.

Hey all, Yeh having the same trouble and dont believe in paying $1000 plus for something that's not a performance mod. When you say metal rod thing you have any more explanation on the "tool" or is it just to seat the plastic switch back in the housing so that the peened over housing holds it in better. (hope you understand what I'm trying to say). I just dont want to "tap" "tap" ---"bang" and have to tow the car to ford.

Yeah took it to lock smith, its the elec switch behind, Cheers for the link may give the fix a try, whats the worst that could happen? Being a fitter I hate to believe the fact that things cant be fixed, I like to try first.

OK here's the drama, turn key car starts, let go key, it flicks back two spots and stops, start again wiggle key to try and get detent into position and its pot luck if it stays on or goes back to accecories. Turns out the drama is the sealed ignition housing (not the key barrel) which is attached to the steering column, Heres the good part, ford want $1,000 trade price for the part. Anyone know if you can use a 2nd hand one to replace? if so anyone got one hanging round? cos from what I've researched they cant be fixed. Any help is most welcome, Oh and I need to fix asap as I'm driving from North Qld to Perth in a few weeks.

Does anyone know of a mod to make the windows go down when you hold the button on the central locking remote? I saw it on a new mondeo and want it for my BA. Thought it would be perfect for those hot days untill you get in and crank the air con, specially up here in townsville.

Just saw the internals of the auto I blew up Diagnosis, laugh then cry and laugh again, well bands ok, planetry and sun gears ok but slight chips on them, the big damage is the central shaft which I'm not sure of the name, it has cracked and opened up in a spiral shape, gearbox guy says he never seen one like it, not sure if it a manufacturing failure which it could be? anyone have anything like this happen? Also one of the parts has been machined near the o-ring surface to make it a smaller diameter to apparently make it shift harder anyone know why they do this? (again not sure of the part name, im a fitter not a mechanic ) also to make the post longer anyone know if u can get stronger planetries?

Cool thanks for the help, well now to get the car to the shop to get it diagnosed and rebuilt, damn im scared cos turning it by hand some bad metal on metal sounds come from it, well ill let ya know what let go, thanks again