Easing Minds Oil Pump

[JETURBO]

Keep starting it but flood it with "start ya bastard" first !

[arronm]

Agree with Ratter , sounds serious. Time for strip down. Sump off, which means engine out or lower front crossmember. Either way, get your wallet out.

[ricky]

if it's locked up, then there could be some serious damage in there

Yeh not shore. The guy at high torque has done a few that have jammed the timing chain without Any issues except pump swap overs. That's why he reckons it's not starting. Will have to wait and see. All the spark plugs are good so atleast there's no holes in the pistons.

[arronm]

But seriously rocker cover off and take a look

[Puffwagon]

Split pumps ay?! I guess I musta missed this thread

[k31th]

well you weren't even a member when this thread was started or last replied to haha

[JETURBO]

My post was super helpful though …. 🙃

[Tom Tucker]

While I'm here... I uncovered a weird wear pattern on my oil pump when I got the engine built. Motor had billet gears installed into the stock housing, and the gears had etched a series of circular grooves into the cast side of the housing. Maybe some sort of foreign debris got between the gear and the housing. Or somehow the gear just started eating into the housing.

New motor has new OEM housing with new billet gears and backing plate, but I can now see the virtues of complete replacement billet or steel units. The standard housing isn't great

[Puffwagon]

Mine was fine for ages when the rev limit was 7000rpm.

 

I raised it and the oil pump failed. The engine saw 7500rpm a handful of times and 7700 just a few times.

 

I used a billet alloy backplate, billet gears, opened up relief port, various smoothing to reduce/prevent cavitation and had an adjustable relief with a stock spring that had 5 turns into it.

 

I've seen those marks in a stock housing with stock gears and I've seen the housing with no marks. They must suck sh*t through them.

[Tom Tucker]

I'm a convert to full steel. But on my next engine build