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Haha lol jets cryptic answers

Gave my mates turbo el fairmont a tune last night standard El bottom end with 350000kms, standard au falcon head basically just cam, springs and head studs to hold the motor together managed to get 597rwhp. hopefully get down to woop ass next week and get some runs in! Motor is making over 4 times the power it came out of the factory with so dunno how much longer it will last

Yeh would be better to go a twin plate organic which will hold power but you just won't be able to abuse it with heaps of clutch kick burn outs. Mine is a dcs twin plate ceramic with solid plates and its noisy rattles heaps with the backlash on and off the throttle but I wanted it for abusing the sh*t out of it. I can dump it straight into 4th gear from a standing start off the 2 step when I do powerskids and it never complains at all.

Only got 400rwkw but has a spool in the diff which does hammer bushes but they still shouldnt break like they did after a short period of time the superpro have been fine now so I'll continue to use them.

Just put rods in it and leave the rest. If your gonna do rods and Pistons and all the rest then do it to your ba motor and put the fg one together and sell it no point building the fg motor when you have a ba one there. But I still say just put rods in the FG motor an through it back together and beat on it!! I've seen a standard El motor in my mates car go for over 6 years with 400rwkw broke 3x tko600 5 speed boxes ( they are the strongest 5 speed that tremec make and on paper are stronger then a t56) blown up 3x btr 4 speeds and the motor is only just starting to put oil in the catch can now. This is a car that is on the two step a lot thrown around on a burnout pad smashing the limiter so put it together with the standard Pistons and worry about puting forged Pistons in it when the stock ones let go. When a piston lets go the rest of motor should be fine but when a rod lets go the rest of the motor will be completely f*cked head, crank, block, sump and everything else apart from probably cams will be destroyed.

my opinion is don't even waste your time with installing nolathane bushes you'll be lucky to get 5000km before there f*cked mine wouldn't have even done 200km and they just tore to pieces. Super pro now in mine and even with a spool in the diff they are still good only done about 10000km though

Are the Pistons in these turbo motors the press fit gudeon pin or do they have circlip locks in them? If they are circlip like some people tell me they are then you could throw a set of spool rods in with the standard Pistons whilst it's apart if its on e85 the standard Pistons should handle the power but having some good rods will make sure it doesn't throw a rod out and wreck it all.

^ exactly and 99% of these cars even with f*cked cams and rollers will make it past the 100 000km mark and that's all ford care about get out of the warranty then it can break.

Nice work mate I know the feeling of 100kmh roll on powerskids awesome fun haha I have 400rwkw on an $80 Chinese 600/300/76 cooler can I have a medal for that haha Just coz temps will be high doesn't mean it can't make good power.

If you seen the sight of the inside of my motor that's making 400rwkw gunna you would probably be wondering how it even runs haha. Had 350000kms on it before I bolted it together and stuck it in my car. Has a ring lip on most cylinders and the odd score mark everywhere plus all the oil was almost like Grease on some parts of it. I just cleaned most of it off bolted it together did a comp test and check it had good oil pressure then through on the Dyno and leant on it hard. It's now done a year of powercruise and Gazzanats, drag racing probably destroyed 30-40 rear tyres on it smashing it off the limiter on the burnout pad and just comp tested it again the other week hasn't even lost 5psi on any of the cylinders. Plus the fact I taught myself how to tune on it so it's never had a very good life but its get no oil in the catch can and runs smooth as. Don't get super concerned over the little stuff mate it will work.

I just pulled my mates one out again yesterday after coming loose again (bout the third time) all the bolts are still tight and haven't actually moved at all plenty of locktite on them but the flex plate can easily rattle around on the bolts. Don't know whether it's a bolt stretching or just the flex plate getting thinner from all he heat and tension then being able to move on there.

Or any bearing shop will have one for $10

As for the flex plate coming loose issue when you put it back in again give the bolts a little tack with the welder on the edge to stop them coming out again or get two flex plates and cut the centre out of one and use it to double the thickness where the crank bolts are. Me and my mates have had so many issues with holding them in gone through about 5 flex plates and this is what happened to one of the last ones that came loose at a track day .

Haha all this talk about expensive oil coolers mine is just an air con condesor $0 dollar cost oil coolers that work the best FTW haha

Love all the extra your going to mate all the little things can add up to help a lot more in the end can't wait to see how it goes when it's together. About the atomic flex plate have you checked with atomic about wether they have changed they way they harden the ring gear as last year another blokes one failed and stripped teeth off the ring gear after around 4 starts of the motor with it. Just thought you would wanna check since how your going to all the extra effort to make sure everything is balanced together.

Yes the other small wire is grounded to pulse the injector Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

19 front and 18 rear looks normal if they are same style wheel I run 19 on the front of my El turbo and 18 on the back because 18 inch tyres are so much cheaper if your gonna go drifting take a few sets as you will probably only get 3 laps out of a set at barbs the track is aggressive and shreds tyres. Best bit to learn on I reckon is the bowl out the back just as you start to head up the hill give the clutch a kick in third let go of the steering wheel slighly and let it slide. The back bit is good because there's no wall right there like there is through the s's and the hill helps the car not pick up huge speed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

60 ft changes mph though so really ratter is right mph isn't acurate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They use 12mm studs in 1200rwhp 2j motors and they are fine. I've seen a few 1000rwhp barras and SOHC 4l with 12mm studs and no issues I think most of it will come down to people not retorqueing studs after a few heat cycles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got 2 -10 on mine but on a SOHC motor doesn't get stuff all in the can but with twin -6 size holes previously and would allways leak out the rocker cover gasket, but then that could also be because the motor has done 350000km and has 20psi of boost rammed in it haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post it up on boosted falcon.net mate sounds like a cool project gonna be doing the same thing soon but single cam turbo motor into an xt fairmont Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeh serious haha don't drive it everyday though I'd have no licence and no money. Just buy tyres in fare bulk sets then just go fit them myself at a mates work shop as I need them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

f*ck I wish I got atleast 7-8 thou haha mine on my turbo usually last about 2 tanks of fuel 500km maybe haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think he means a gtx3576 centre into the stock rear housing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you hold these zf's in 2nd on the line or does the ecu allways make you take it off in 1st ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk